Hodinkee
Just Because: A Glimpse At The Ultra-Rare Handcrafted Tuscan Dials Of Audemars Piguet
A beautiful deep cut within the Royal Oak world, in the metal.
988 articles · 6 videos found · page 20 of 34
Vallée de Joux village that has been Audemars Piguet HQ since 1875; also home to APRP movement development.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Audemars Piguet thread.
Gérald Genta's overnight 1971 sketch that invented the luxury steel sports watch.
AP's 2019 round watch family. Octagonal midcase, round bezel, double-curved sapphire.
Hodinkee
A beautiful deep cut within the Royal Oak world, in the metal.
Hodinkee
"Audemars Piguet made me a piece unique to bring out on tour. And now it's pretty much all I wear."
Hodinkee
An ultra-thin automatic tourbillon with surprising depth.
SJX Watches
Having rounded up a few highlights from the independents at the Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction taking place on May 27 and 28, we now turn to the notable complicated watches. We selected five watches, most of which are exceptionally complicated and extremely expensive when they were new, making them value buys today. These include lesser known watches from major brands, such as as the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon and the Audemars Piguet Millenary Minute Repeater with an unusual direct-impulse escapement. And the selection also includes a unique Patek Philippe ref. 3974 with a dial bearing Breguet numerals and an unusual Calatrava cross (which won’t likely be a value buy unfortunately). Registration for bidding and the full catalogue for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV can be accessed here. Lot 855: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon Cartier’s modern-day venture into high horology was at its most ambitious with the Fine Watchmaking collection launched in 2008, which included various creative complications such as the range of mystery watches. But amongst the most complicated watches in the collection was Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a complicated watch executed in a classical style. But the movement was constructed in an unconventional manner with most of the mechanics inverted so that the repeater gongs and hammers are visible on the dial. And the calibre also incorporates tech...
Time+Tide
Ever since I had heard they were opening a new space, I was itching to see the new AP House in New York City. It is not open to the public just yet, but I was invited to swing by to get an early taste of the Audemars Piguet space. To just visit and get … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson told me the story behind his go-to Royal Oak before christening AP House with new single “Too Much” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Taking a closer look at the Holy Grail of vintage Royal Oaks before it heads to auction on Friday.
Quill & Pad
“May I have your full attention? This is one of the most important watches ever.” As Sotheby’s auctioneer Benoît Colson opened lot 72 on May 10, 2022, the room seemed to hold its collective breath for a moment. He continued, “The personal Royal Oak of Gérald Genta – you could not dream of a better provenance for a Royal Oak, an Audemars Piguet, or even any wristwatch.” And here's how the world record price for a vintage AP Royal Oak went down from an eyewitness.
SJX Watches
Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...
Time+Tide
If you were ever wondering what started the stainless-steel sports watch craze we find ourselves in today, none of it would have been possible without one particular watch – which recently celebrated its 50th Birthday. On April 15th, 1972, Audemars Piguet, Georges Golay, and Gérald Genta would forever change the luxury sports watch segment – … ContinuedThe post The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...
Time+Tide
A core component of being an auction house is curation, often under the scope of a particular theme. But, even with a theme in mind, we often see an abundance of the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Swiss auction house Ineichen, however, loves to work outside the norm. Sure, they … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper picks from the upcoming “Precious Blues” Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...
Hodinkee
Ginny Wright explains how to ask the right questions – and what's next for the house of the Royal Oak.
Quill & Pad
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will hold the Geneva Watch Auction XV in Switzerland on May 7 and 8, 2022. What’s particularly interesting about Phillips’ traditional late spring auction this year is that it is preceded by an “appetizer” on May 6, the Royal Oak 50th auction with a catalogue so rich it could arguably serve as the main course. Brendan Cunningham went to the New York City preview and shares a few of his highlights with us here.
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...
Time+Tide
In case you haven’t received the memo, stainless-steel, integrated-bracelet watches are white-hot. Scratch that: more like a Texas-sized asteroid flying straight into the centre of the sun-hot. Over the past several years, models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone from finely crafted-yet-anachronistic curiosities of ‘70s watch history, to the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Built Rolex tough – and more!
Spending time with the newest version of the model that created the luxury sport watch.
Quill & Pad
Sotheby’s is currently auctioning off a set of Gérald Genta’s original drawings – including the original sketch of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – and our pals at The Watches TV took the opportunity to get his widow, Evelyne Genta, on camera to discuss the famed designer’s life and legacy. See it here!
SJX Watches
Implemented in models across Audemars Piguet’s catalogue, the tourbillon has been found in the Royal Oak since 1997, though it’s only recently that the model got a major upgrade with the automatic flying tourbillon introduced last year. Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked (ref. 26735). The new model is equipped with the brand-new cal. 2792, an automatic movement that’s modern in both aesthetics and construction, with thoughtful details that are typical of Audemars Piguet’s approach to movement construction. The cal. 2792 with the Royal Oak 50th anniversary rotor that’ll be available only during 2022 Initial thoughts The new Royal Oak tourbillon is interesting for its modern aesthetics, particularly in terms of the movement. Despite being a decades-old design, the Royal Oak tourbillon manages to be original in style thanks in part to the calibre. But the movement is more than just a styling exercise. It incorporates several details that are cleverly engineered, which speaks to the watchmaker’s effort in making timepieces that are rooted in contemporary watchmaking concepts. Even though skeletonised watches are neither new nor rare, the exposed mechanics are still intriguing, allowing geeks to connect the dots between the visible parts on the front and back. And as is typical of AP skeleton movements, the cal. 2972 is finished in a manner that is very much modern haute ho...
Deployant
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is possibly the grail watch for many stainless steel sports watch collectors. In terms of execution, nothing has changed, and if any, it has only gotten better. The new in-house movement is potentially a significant improvement for stability, performance and accuracy. That said, the discontinuation of the older 15202ST with the caliber 2121 has only made the older model much more collectible. The watch retails at USD$33,200, but is hard if not impossible to find at MSRP.
Time+Tide
When you think Valentine’s Day gifts, normally you’d think of flowers, chocolates or jewellery. But American rapper Offset, member of the Migos, does not hold back when it comes to gift-giving – luxury is his love language. For example, back in July we reported one of our youngest and most extravagant watchspots ever on the … ContinuedThe post Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s hard to remember a time when ultra-luxe sport watches weren’t available on rubber. Today, buyers can choose from Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore, Zenith’s Defy, Rolex’s Daytona, and many more, but this wasn’t always the case. Pre-’80s, rubber straps were considered déclassé, far too casual for anything but a dive watch. But Hublot changed … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...
Deployant
royal oak new collection 2022 audemars piguet
SJX Watches
With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Audemars Piguet did not hold back this week, starting off 2022 with a revamped Royal Oak Collection in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. So we’re offering a quick overview of all the new novelties we are allowed to share from the AP Social Club event – touching on each new reference … ContinuedThe post All of the 42 new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th anniversary releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Because there are eight sides to every great story.
Hodinkee
A classic Royal Oak Complication gets some subtle enhancements.
Hodinkee
The peak Royal Oak hits the half-century mark with a whole new reference. It's a mild but meaningful upgrade to a bona fide icon.
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