Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Twelve X From Christopher Ward
The watch is a striking skeletonized celebration of 20 years of brand history and 10 years of the Caliber SH21 in-house movement.
Results for Caliber DUW 3001
847 articles · 178 videos found · page 20 of 35
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Celebrates 20 Years of 9R Spring Drive
Grand Seiko is celebrating the 20th anniversary of 9R Spring Drive movement with a pair of limited editions featuring dials inspired by the sunrise at Mount Hotaka, a peak near the Grand Seiko workshop in Shiojiri. The first model is the Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary “Pink Snowflake” (SBGA497) that revisits the first ever watch model with the 9R but with the trademark “snowflake” dial in pink. And the second is the Sports Collection Spring Drive GMT Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary (SBGE305) combining a black ceramic bezel with a dark red sunburst dial. Initial Thoughts The invention of the Spring Drive calibre is arguably one of Seiko’s most important achievements. It encompasses most of the advantages of mechanical movement while retaining the accuracy of quartz. Similar to a fully mechanical movement, it is powered by a spring rather than a battery, while timekeeping is regulated by a quartz crystal. As the first-ever commercially available Spring Drive variant, 9R marks an important feat for Grand Seiko. Nevertheless, despite the two new releases being celebratory models for the 20th anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive movement, they don’t seem to offer anything remarkable or unprecedented. Rather, the choice of a Hotaka mountain-inspired dial for both watches seems cliche, considering how pink and red colour dials have been relatively common in the brand’s catalogue. Plus, the inspiration behind Grand Seiko’s dial seems rather repetitive, a...
Quill & Pad
Chopard L.U.C 1860: Its Only Downside is that it’s So Good
While the original L.U.C 1860, with caliber 1.96, was spot on for the era, the current L.U.C 1860 in Lucent steel is just that again. It shows once more that trends come and go, but circle.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Very '70s Oris Collaboration With Collective Horology
The brand jumps 10 years ahead with the new Divers "Seventy-Five" with the Caliber 400.
Worn & Wound
Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT
It has been a little over two years since Zach introduced the first iteration of Traska’s Venturer. A multipurpose sports watch which boasted incredible specs for your hard earned money. While the first model retailed for $585 and was equipped with a time and date Miyota 9019, the new version retails for $720 and is equipped with a “true” GMT Miyota 9075 caliber. That’s a meager $135 extra for a completely different movement which offers a new type of functionality: traveling like a pro. What’s more is that the brand added a tool-less micro-adjust clasp and gave the case a gentle facelift whilst improving its overall construction and finish. What’s not to like here? There are many ways to discuss watches. It could be its design, value, or the use of a unique movement. To be fair, many of us like to talk about value. We all like a good deal and the thing about micro and independent brands is that the “deals” get better and better each day. More specs, better construction, improved finish. Things just keep getting better. And you might find that the new Venturer GMT may very well be one of the best value GMTs out there right now by just looking at the spec sheet: a true GMT caliber, box-style domed sapphire crystal, tool-less micro-adjust clasp, 150 meters of water resistance, generous application of BGW9 lume, and a case and bracelet made of hardened steel. This makes the Venturer GMT a true travel companion and a proper tool watch. Traska was one of the f...
Video
Hands-On With Omega’s Two New James Bond Seamasters
Omega launches not just one watch—but actually four new Seamasters. Two of them are the focus here since they're not limited and are additions to the main collection. Let's get one thing out of the way first—if yo...
Time+Tide
The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve
Citizen has developed an all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement, bringing a year of running time on a full charge The Citizen Eco -Drive 365 is releasing in three new models, one of which is a limited edition based on the original Citizen Quartz EFA from the 1973 The Eco-Drive 365 is the latest watch … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Eco-Drive 365 presents a brand new movement with a year-long power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series
Discover the new Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series with an upgraded Caliber 6R5J movement, enhanced design, and traditional Japanese motifs. Read our review for details on the case and dial, movement, and price. Available starting in June 2023.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement
Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well. The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With John Goldberger, Part 2
The legendary collector and scholar returns with a dozen vintage watches of the highest caliber – and you'll probably never see anything like this again.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Releases Its Best Spring Drive Diver Yet (Live Pics & Pricing)
Caliber 9RA5, high-intensity titanium, and the all-important textured "Black Stream" dial.
Video
The Biggest Lesson I Learned With My Rolex Explorer: A REAL 007 Watch
Recently, I had to make a tough decision regarding which watch to keep, between the Hamilton Khaki GS Mechanical 36mm and my Rolex Explorer (ref. 114270,) and something unexpected helped me to decide. Have you learned...
Revolution
Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet presents a new tale of imaginative watchmaking in its latest launch, the Astronef that is powered by the caliber LM105 that drove its iconic Space Revolution watch.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary
Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar
A mid-tier complication, with a high caliber feel.
Deployant
Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is possibly the grail watch for many stainless steel sports watch collectors. In terms of execution, nothing has changed, and if any, it has only gotten better. The new in-house movement is potentially a significant improvement for stability, performance and accuracy. That said, the discontinuation of the older 15202ST with the caliber 2121 has only made the older model much more collectible. The watch retails at USD$33,200, but is hard if not impossible to find at MSRP.
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition
While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...
Video
This Retro Watch Is PERFECT for Someone but Not Everyone
£3,600 retro-futuristic jumping hour mechanical-digital watch with prism LRD display. Full history from 1925 to 1976 Baselworld to 2024 revival, full specs on Soprod Newton P092 + in-house 9-part module, and why it's...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
Now updated with the in-house 3285 caliber.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
Revolution
Introducing Gucci’s 100th Anniversary High Watchmaking Collection
Gucci celebrates their 100th anniversary by introducing four high caliber timepiece collections with a staggering 33 new models.
Hodinkee
This Lucky Man Buys Thousands of Watches For a Living
An interview with Crown & Caliber's Mark Hackman.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m
Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...
Video
5 NEW Watch Releases This Week - October 2026
Welcome to the weekly watch releases update for the first week of October 2026. We have new models from Seiko, G-Shock, Oris and more. Enjoy the video:)
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Mysterious Unsigned Chronograph Minute Repeater Is Coming Up At Phillips
Tucked behind a common chronograph caliber, you'll find something very special.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future
The Oristas out there eagerly anticipate the annual Oris Hölstein Edition, and the Big Crown is a beloved staple of the range. Recent additions have been strong with the new Caliber 400 making its Aquis debut, and the Big Crown cherry-candy delight of Fratello’s bronze-cased limited edition here. Despite the distinctive looks of the short-lugged … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons
The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!
Deployant
AP: hands-on review of the new Royal Oak Offshore Diver
We got up-close and hands-on with the new AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver, now in three dial options, a new caliber 4308, and an interchangeable strap system.
Revolution
Introducing the Piaget Polo Skeleton
Piaget brings their 21st century Polo into their ultra-thin fold with the Polo Skeleton, powered by the now evolved, 2.4mm 1200S1 self-winding caliber
Video
Watch YouTuber is Finally Happy with His Collection
Kayden is finally happy with his collection. What do we think?