Revolution
Introducing the New IWC Portugieser Chronograph
The iconic Portugieser Chronograph from IWC gets the automatic in-house Cal. 69355 in regular series production, and a display caseback to show it off.
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Revolution
Time+Tide
Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a paragon of the Art Deco dress watch style, delivering a clean and classic design that has remained the same for the best part of a hundred years. While most watches with a solid caseback offer ample space for an engraving, the Reverso offers more than most thanks to its beautifully … ContinuedThe post Why getting your Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso engraved is worth the wait appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner
Editor’s note: People love seeing the insides of a Rolex. Perhaps it’s because of their popularity or perhaps it’s the fact that their insides are always hidden behind a solid caseback. Whatever the reason, people love the chance to get a glimpse at these industrially impressive machines. So, here’s another look at that time Peter … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The deconstructed Rolex Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - The Complex World of Casebacks
Many don’t realise just how complicated casebacks have become. Whether they’re contributing to high water resistance, displaying the movement or becoming part of the case itself, casebacks aren’t simply covers snapped on the back (although those do exist, of course). There are several ways to attach them to the case, and each method has a […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 41.5 Steel “Colours of the Moon” Collection
Few modern moon-phase watches place the lunar display at the centre of the experience quite like Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon. Since its introduction over 10 years ago, the collection has served as a showcase for the brand’s fascination with astronomy, with numerous variants released. Now, Arnold & Son revisits this signature model with three […]
WatchAdvice
Reviewing The Longines HydroConquest 42mm Edition
With all the talk around the new Longines HydroConquest models, we thought it best to see for ourselves what the fuss was about. What We Loved The classic dive watch look The sliding micro-adjustment on the clasp Solid build quality What We Didn’t The longer lugs make it wear a little larger than the specs suggest The Bezel action could be a little smoother The sliding micro-adjustment could have 5 mm more worth (but I’m nit-picking here) Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Recently, Longines announced the new HydroConquest collection, and there was a fair bit of talk about the new pieces within watch circles. After all, the brand released a good-looking 300m dive watch in two sizes, several colour ways and two bracelet configurations, and all for A$3,375 or A$3,550 depending on the bracelet chosen. So, it was a watch we just had to check out in person. For this review, I’ll be testing out the 42mm model on the more traditional three-link bracelet, and in the blue colourway. Mario will be tackling the 39mm model in ice blue on the mesh bracelet in a week or two, as it does wear differently and is worthy of its own spotlight. And for the photo shoot, why not take the watches down to the beautiful Manly Harbour and the Manly Boathouse? It is a great backdrop given the pedigree of the Longines HydroConquest. Initial Thoughts I’ll admit, I was not sold initially on it. Why? Well, let’s address the el...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: British Watchmakers Day 2026
A sold-out celebration of British watchmaking with special editions and serious wrist spotting on display. Afternoon tea and biscuits not included.
SJX Watches
Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
Worn & Wound
Otsuka Lotec Introduces the No. 8, a New Design Inspired by Abbey Road Mixing Consoles Featuring Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute Displays
Otsuka Lotec has emerged as one of the most exciting Japanese independent brands, a corner of the enthusiast world that is greatly expanding at the moment. Otsuka Lotec has found a niche with (mostly) affordable watches with a steampunk aesthetic, with lots of exposed gearing and an overtly mechanical look and feel. I’m an owner of the No. 5 Kai, and it’s one of the most satisfying watches in my collection – there’s really nothing else quite like it, at least under $10,000. Prior to this week, the latest release from the brand was an ultra high end complicated piece with a tourbillon and chiming mechanism with a retail price soaring into the low six figures, but they’ve returned to earth with the all new No. 8, which once again combines complications unexpectedly and gives the wearer a unique view of the mechanism inside. Like the haute horlogerie adjacent No. 9 linked above, the No. 8 features a square case fashioned from stainless steel. Time is read via a jumping hour display on the left side of the dial, and a retrograde minute display on the right (there is also a running seconds indicator at roughly the 12:00 position). Figuring out how to read the time when you first encounter a watch like this is part of the fun, but once you grasp what’s going on, it’s quite intuitive. The current hour and minute are easy to see at a glance if you look for the red indicators that correspond to each. A video posted on Otsuka Lotec’s YouTube channel makes the drama...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
Sometimes, extravagant timepieces come along and light up my life as a watch writer. You should have seen the look on my face when three Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic models landed on my desk. I knew that they were coming in, but they still surprised me. These extravagant watches display bold Italian design that looks like […] Visit Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Elevates the Escale Minute Repeater
Louis Vuitton sharpens its haute horlogerie credentials with the Escale Minute Repeater, a chiming complication paired with a jump hour and retrograde minutes display. Built around La Fabrique du Temps’s proven minute repeater calibre, the watch trades the previous Escale minute repeater’s world time function for a cleaner, more focused dial dominated by grey flammé guilloché. The result puts Louis Vuitton in direct competition with established players in complicated watchmaking, and comes complete with a discreet repeater slide hidden within the signature trunk-inspired lugs. Initial thoughts On the back of a strong 2025, Louis Vuittion doubles down on haute horlogerie, now in a more traditional case than last year’s Tambour. While the brand still offers the quartz Tambour Street Diver for just a few thousand dollars, Louis Vuittion’s ambitions clearly lie in the high-end. After years of strategic acquisitions and investments, the brand has the industrial base to compete and the know-how to do things its own way. The Escale Minute Repeater is the embodiment of Louis Vuitton’s ambitions, and is competitive with other minute repeaters from established haute horlogerie brands thanks to its modern movement and tasteful details. In short, it shows the brand understands the tastes of the day, and, more importantly, how to deliver a compelling package that leans into Louis Vuitton’s unique legacy and brand DNA. Furthermore, the minute repeater is something of a s...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Facelifts the Villeret Quantieme Complet 6654
As the first complication launched by the revived Blancpain in 1983, the triple calendar with moon phase is arguably the brand’s signature. Now Blancpain has reveal the latest generation of the model, the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune. The new version is primarily a cosmetic facelift, which includes a blue ceramic moon phase disc, but it builds on solid foundations. The model retains the innovative and patented under-lug correctors for the calendar that make for easier setting and a clean case outline. The new Villeret Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune (centre) is being launched alongside the the Quantième Phases de Lune, a 33.2 mm model for ladies (left), and Extraplate, the time-and-date base model (right), both of which have been similarly facelifted. Initial thoughts The triple calendar is a simple complication, but functions and aesthetically pleasing in the traditional layout that Blancpain employs. Though it is widely found across brands, Blancpain probably offers the most advanced triple calendar watches on the market thanks to its sophisticated movements. And Blancpain manages to do so at a reasonably competitive price relative to its peers. At a distance, the facelifted models look pretty much identical to the earlier generation – a good thing if you like the look, but the classical style might look dated to some. I find the aesthetic appealing, especially with details like the serpentine date hand and recessed dates scale. The facelift...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition Shines in Aventurine
Over the past two decades, the PanoMaticLunar has established itself as one of Glashütte Original’s most recognisable models. Its off-centred time display, Panorama Date, and moon-phase complication have become defining features of the collection, embodying the Saxon approach to precision, order, and poetry. Along the way, the PanoMaticLunar has experimented with colour, moving from the […]
Time+Tide
Why exhibition casebacks aren’t always a selling point
Exhibition casebacks on watches can be magical - but like any overused magic trick, used too often, the wizardry fades, Tom argues.The post Why exhibition casebacks aren’t always a selling point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The DWISS Model A1 is an integrated bracelet beauty from a brand known for crazy, affordable time displays
Does the Model A1 have what it takes to enter a crowded market?The post The DWISS Model A1 is an integrated bracelet beauty from a brand known for crazy, affordable time displays appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - Glashütte Original Releases a Quartet of New Serenade Luna models
The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a smaller version of the men’s model, the Lady Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Last year, the Lady Serenade was given a moonlight serenade with the incorporation of a moon phase display and […]
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Six Watches with Unique Power Reserve Displays
There’s a certain tyre manufacturer from Italy that claims “Power is nothing without Control”, and to an extent, that is very true about mechanical watches as well. Sure, you can have the most beautifully constructed watch, but if you don’t harness the energy that’s generated by winding it properly, it’s useless. Luckily, we’ve figured out […]
Time+Tide
Franck Muller’s Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is an avant-garde manual-winder with three jumping displays
Three jumping displays, a shaped movement, and avant-garde design - that sounds like a Franck Muller, alright!The post Franck Muller’s Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is an avant-garde manual-winder with three jumping displays appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One
The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite
Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials: the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - A Selection of the Very Best Artistic Dials We’ve Seen this Year
They say the face of a watch can be regarded as a canvas. A canvas to display time first and foremost, but in some watches, it is also a backdrop for a discerning and mesmerising complication like a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar indication. But what if you would take the dial as a canvas […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Noah Unveils The Follow-Up To Its Hit Timex Collaboration Watch
Now featuring a date and moon phase display.
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar
One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse. Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display. Initial thoughts Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial. Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication. Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Inverse German wa...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Rose Gold Version of the De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius
De Bethune’s DB25 family can be regarded as the more classical face of the brand, showcasing Denis Flageollet’s passion for traditional watchmaking with a delightful cosmic twist. De Bethune recently unveiled a new version of the DB25GMT Starry Varius in a luxurious rose gold case with its mysterious GMT display signalling time with a rotating […]
Fratello
Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More
Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my €2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction I’ve ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn’t want it to clash with […] Visit Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Modern Hues for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase
Sporting a moon phase and retro design, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase was originally available only in sedate colours of cream and silver. Now the line grows to include dials in Havana beige, anthracite and green. Unlike the recent Conquest Heritage, the Moonphase is not a vintage reproduction, rather it’s a blend of vintage and modern, with the bonus of a solid 18k gold medallion on the back portraying a caravel on a blue sea of grand feu enamel. Initial thoughts The new trio are essentially cosmetic expansions of the line, so they do not seem novel on paper, but they are a smartly conceived products. The traditional styling is preserved, but with dials in striking colours that are now much more lively. The earlier versions were arguably too plain, with the subdued colours seeming a bit flat. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase is one of Longines’ more expensive models at US$3,050, but nonetheless is decent value considering the top-of-the-line ETA movement and solid-gold, hand-enamelled emblem on the back. Calendar complications Like most models in Longines’ vintage-based Heritage Classic collection, the Flagship Heritage Moonphase is compact by modern standards, but larger than the actual vintage originals. The stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 12.4 mm in thickness. Simple in style, the case has a domed, polished bezel and short, angular lugs with polished chamfers along their edges. Slightly domed to mimic a vintage watch, the dial is finished with a ...
Monochrome
First Look - Three New Editions of the Sporty Bulgari Aluminium
The launch of the Bulgari Aluminio in 1998 flew in the face of conventional watchmaking with its unusual combination of black rubber and lightweight aluminium. With its graphic solid black and off-white livery, the Aluminio soared in popularity as an attractive, entry-level sports watch with a slick Italian soul. Marking its much-anticipated comeback in 2020, […]
Deployant
Live from WWG24: new from Laurent Ferrier
Our next session is with Laurent Ferrier by returning to the classical design with the Classic Moon, their first moon phase display.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within. And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...
Revolution
The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable?
In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]