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Results for Spring Drive (9R65 / 9R86)

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Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show Time+Tide
Bulgari s pivot Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show

Question: has any watch brand evolved as much as Bulgari in the last decade? In 2011, the company’s watchmaking design division was transplanted from Rome to Neuchâtel in Switzerland in a sign of the brand’s horological intent. It’s proved to be wildly fruitful, too, as Italian style has merged with Swiss precision in a succession … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt) Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2021

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt)

Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm's RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2021

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown

Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

At the closing spring auction of Christie’s New York , Cartier Crash-es through the estimate ceiling to outshine Andy Warhol.. Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava surprisingly didn’t turn Jun 22, 2021

At the closing spring auction of Christie’s New York , Cartier Crash-es through the estimate ceiling to outshine Andy Warhol..

The Christie’s New York auction ended yesterday with their final event of the spring season representing an important touchstone for the market. The predicted top lot, Andy Warhol’s chic Patek Philippe Calatrava surprisingly didn’t turn out to be the star of the show with Cartier instead making the headlines with their quirky Crash. While the … ContinuedThe post At the closing spring auction of Christie’s New York , Cartier Crash-es through the estimate ceiling to outshine Andy Warhol.. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R

At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better Quill & Pad
Jun 15, 2021

Bollinger R.D. 2007 Champagne: Recently Disgorged, Ready To Drink Now, And Likely To Get Better And Better

Bollinger’s latest release, the 2007 R.D. or, more specifically, the 2007 “Récemment Dégorgé” (“Recently Disgorged”), is the house's flagship wine. It is still early days for the 2007 R.D., and it is perhaps not exhibiting anything like the truffle and mushroom notes that should come in the years ahead. But Ken Gargett thinks it's already great to drink now and rates it 97/100.

OK, we’re calling it: the Mido Ocean Star GMT is the best value Swiss GMT around Time+Tide
Mido Jun 13, 2021

OK, we’re calling it: the Mido Ocean Star GMT is the best value Swiss GMT around

Value, presence and durability. These three factors are pretty important in the $1500 – $2000 price segment, and with the tough 44mm Mido Ocean Star GMT, I’m struggling to find any unticked boxes. I could happily live with this comfortable 44mm case, even if its diameter is on the beefy side, because it fits the … ContinuedThe post OK, we’re calling it: the Mido Ocean Star GMT is the best value Swiss GMT around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” Time+Tide
Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seriously Playful Roland Iten R18 Superdriver Mechanical Belt Buckle: Because A Richard Mille Can’t Hold Up Your Pants (With Video) Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch Apr 22, 2021

Seriously Playful Roland Iten R18 Superdriver Mechanical Belt Buckle: Because A Richard Mille Can’t Hold Up Your Pants (With Video)

Absolutely nobody needs an expensive high-end mechanical belt buckle built like an expensive high-end wristwatch. But then nobody needs an expensive high-end wristwatch either. For those with deep pockets and an itch that another Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, or Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch, the Roland Iten R18 Superdriver might just do the trick.

Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Apr 8, 2021

Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold

Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...

Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year Time+Tide
Apr 7, 2021

Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year

Anyone that’s paid more than a passing glance to Time+Tide stories, social media posts and videos over the years knows one thing. We do things a little differently over here. Especially at watch fairs. It’s not entirely by design. We are more often than not as chronically over-caffeinated as we are understaffed. Luckily for everyone, the … ContinuedThe post Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Mar 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation

Neo-vintage? Vintage-inspired?  Take your pick with this new interpretation of the Alpinist. Personally, I love it, I’m still happily surfing on the vintage wave – somewhat more like a tsunami at times, and haven’t had my fill of nostalgia yet. Seiko gave us what we wanted in 2020, but there’s no stopping them in this … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-Interpretation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says Feb 6, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head

Surely this is a marriage made in motorsport heaven? Your inner petrolhead might be increasingly dormant at a time where there’s an increasing emphasis on soulless electric cars and less of the freedom and speed that motor racing traditionally symbolises. If so, consider this watch your re-awakening. To paraphrase TAG Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault, TAG … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph says it’s time to re-awaken your inner petrol head appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable Time+Tide
Jan 6, 2021

You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable

The term “grail watch” is used to refer to the ultimate collection piece. It might be a rare vintage treasure or a modern horological marvel depending on your personal taste. Effectively though it represents the Mount Everest of your watch-buying ambitions and is likely to be financially ruinous.  Grail watches traditionally therefore conjure up images … ContinuedThe post You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko remakes are numerous making Dec 8, 2020

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation

Introduced in 1961 as a top-of-the-line Seiko, the King Seiko label is being revived for the brand’s 140th anniversary. A remake of the second King Seiko model of 1965, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-creation of King Seiko KSK (ref. SJE083) is a limited-edition automatic that’s only the second King Seiko remake in as many decades. It comes along a long time after the first very remake, which was the SCVN001 introduced as part of the Historical Collection in 2000. Initial thoughts Like most Seiko remakes, the King Seiko KSK is faithfully executed, albeit with a few tweaks to accommodate the new movement. The case is larger than the original, and the dial now incorporates a date display. But the tweaks to the design are done artfully enough that the remake still looks very much like a vintage watch. And while Grand Seiko remakes are numerous, making them less uncommon than they once were, this is only the second King Seiko remake to date. While it is almost a certainty there will be more remakes to come, this is fairly special edition for the time being. The vintage King Seiko KSK “44KS” of 1965 Interestingly, the remake also sits in between Grand Seiko and entry-level models like the Presage in both price and quality, making it a useful proposition for someone who has a budget that doesn’t quite reach Grand Seiko level. Fittingly since the vintage original was conceived as a high-end wristwatch – comparable to Grand Seiko but perhaps a step down in luxury –...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre which Nov 24, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-Creation

Announced alongside the exceptional but exorbitant Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Re-Creation (ref. SBGW260) is a hand-wound remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960, the first-ever Grand Seiko. And it is a Grand Seiko, but commemorates the 140 years since the founding of Seiko. Notably, its in 18k rose gold, a metal that’s rarely used by Grand Seiko. And although the 9S64 movement inside is an existing calibre, it’s finished more elaborately compared to earlier versions of the movement. Initial thoughts Being a faithful remake, the SBGW260 has the same appeal as the vintage-original Grand Seiko “First”. Although the colour scheme is unusual for a Grand Seiko – this is the first 3180 remake, and one of the few Grand Seikos, in rose gold – the warm palette suits the vintage style. But more notable is the movement upgrade in terms of decoration. Though still the same workhorse 9S64 found in all remakes of the “First”, the movement has been dressed up blued screws and straight graining on the bridges – plus a solid-gold plate for the anniversary – giving it a look usually associated with higher-end Seiko watches, but is increasingly being rolled out across the price spectrum. It isn’t quite the haute horlogerie finish found on movements made at the Micro Artist Studio, but the decoration appears comparable to Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is to say it’s fine but workmanlike. And while it is hearte...

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 11, 2020

Sinn Introduces the R500 Chronograph

Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...