Deployant
Armchair Picks: Robin’s 3 of the Best from Watches and Wonders 2023
With the recently concluded Watches and Wonders 2023, we take a look at some of our favourite timepieces from the exhibition.
Results for Equation of Time
34,247 articles · 145 videos found · page 200 of 1147
Deployant
Revolution
VIDEO: Chopard presents opulent new renditions of the Happy Sport and l’Heure du Diamant
The women’s novelties presented by Chopard at Watches and Wonders 2023 were truly dazzling, starting with the Happy Sport, a popular watch collection by the maison that lets its diamonds prance freely across a hand-finished dial. Next, Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto shows us a new marquise-cut diamond-set version of l’Heure du Diamant, followed by an […]
Worn & Wound
The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Has One of the Most Ingenious Chrono Displays We’ve Seen
The lineup from Jaeger-LeCoultre at this year’s Watches & Wonders is remarkably focused. When I received the embargoed press releases a few weeks ago, I’ll admit to a slight twinge of disappointment at the apparent lack of variety. It would be a Reverso year for the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and vague hopes that I always have for a recommitment to high spec but elegant sports watches were once again dashed. My disappointment (it’s an overstatement to even call it that) was short lived, as I began to dig into those very same press releases and began to realize that we were likely to see some beautiful stuff from JLC. The Reverso is such a great watch, it’s tough to be anything but charmed by them at the end of the day. The most interesting of the new Reversos that I saw is also the most clever, and is a fun, practical, and beautiful use of the iconic hinged case and the capacity for the watch to feature two dial displays. The new Tribute Chronograph is part of a large package of new references in the “Tribute” category, all paying tribute to the original Reverso in their perfect proportions. For the chrono, we get two references, one in gold and the other in steel, each with a dial that tells the current time and a secondary dial that displays elapsed time via a rather ingenious chronograph display. Think about almost every chronograph you’ve ever seen, and you begin to realize that a circular case and dial are practically core to the complication itsel...
Revolution
VIDEO: New iterations of the Hermès H08 debuted at Watches and Wonders 2023
A long-serving employee of Hermès, Hermès Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet has strove to establish the maison as a respected creator of fine watches. He has endeavored to develop watches like the H08, Arceau le Temps Voyageur and Arceau Hermès Story that are instantly recognizable from afar. At Watches and Wonders 2023, the H08 returns in […]
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir
This year, Panerai shines the spotlight on the historic Radiomir, which is one of four major Panerai collections alongside the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible. In this video, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué presents new novelties like the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California, Radiomir Otto Giorni and Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech to Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto […]
Revolution
VIDEO: Jeremiah gets his hands on the new UR-102 designs of 2023
At Urwerk’s atelier, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, got to know the back story of the iconic UR-102 in detail. As you might be aware, the UR-102 is inspired by the Sputnik satellite, and this unconventional timepiece played a fundamental role in launching Urwerk to success, along with paving the way for futuristic independent watchmaking. […]
Revolution
VIDEO: Sinn presents handsome new dive watches at Time To Watches
Aviation and dive watch enthusiasts might know Sinn, a cult brand that has a rich history of developing high-accuracy and highly durable utilitarian watches. Among its 2023 debuts was the T50, a 500m water-resistant watch that comes in titanium or Sinn’s alloy called “Goldbronze”, that is awaiting patent. The T50 is 41mm in case size […]
Revolution
VIDEO: New versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph
Besides the new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860, Chopard also introduced several stunning versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2023. Inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia race, this 40.5mm Lucent Steel timepiece is now available in colors like light […]
Quill & Pad
Zenith Defy Skyline: A Steel Time-Only Sports Watch With An El Primero Movement Sans Chronograph
Let us be honest; there are already quite a few high-end, time only watches in stainless steel with an integrated bracelet design to choose from. So what possesses a brand to enter this market with yet another model? I have no idea, but Martin Green is glad Zenith took this bold move last year with the Defy Skyline.
Worn & Wound
Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation
Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos. The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time 5224R (Live Pics)
A new take on the travel time, now with a 24-hour display.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe’s First Pilot-Style Travel Time Chronograph
The quintessential pilot complication finally hits the Patek lineup for the first time.
Quill & Pad
Send Us Your Recommendations And Suggestions Of Watches To Nominate For The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
As GPHG Academy members, GaryG, Joshua Munchow, and Ian Skellern have been asked to nominate watches for consideration in the 2023 GPHG. And while they spend much of our lives immersed in the world of watches, they don’t know of everything out there and there may well be, and are likely to be, gems that they are not aware of. So please send us your suggestions and recommendations for watches in the 15 categories listed.
Revolution
In Conversation with Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and CEO of Louis Moinet Part I
Wei visits the medieval town of St. Blaise, Switzerland, the home of independent watchmaker Louis Moinet to speak with Owner and CEO Jean-Marie Schaller about the significance of the brand that he revived and the direction it needs to go for the future. Watchmaking history was rewritten in 2016 when Louis Moinet was awarded a […]
Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection
You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact. The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think. An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...
Worn & Wound
Norqain’s Latest Wild One Celebrates the Brand’s Ties to the Music World and the Town of Zermatt
Sometimes a brand will launch a new watch line to intense fanfare, and then seem to forget about it, letting it twist in the proverbial wind while diligently shoring up other more proven collections. It’s a big gamble to launch a new watch collection, and timing follow ups after a big introduction is an inexact science at best. Norqain, with the launch of the Wild One last fall, has taken an aggressive approach to getting the word about their new high end sports watch, with quick follow ups that expand the palate of what the Wild One can be, and rapidly familiarize the watch community with the new platform. The latest Wild One has a distinct aesthetic impact, and also serves to highlight a new Norqain partnership, all based around a location that is of genuine importance to the brand. The Wild One Zermatt Unplugged Special Edition celebrates Norqain’s involvement in the Zermatt Unplugged music festival, which occurs annually in the picturesque Swiss ski village at the base of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is also the location of Norqain’s flagship boutique, and as a center of outdoor sport it falls right in line with the brand’s bent towards adventure. To bolster their ties to the music festival, Norqain is offering a limited number of the new watches as part of a package that includes a two night stay in Zermatt during the festival along with a VIP ticket and a day of skiing with Olympic medalists Tina Weirather and Ramon Zenhäusern, who are also Norqain ambassadors....
Worn & Wound
Phillips to Auction a Patek Philippe Owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of China
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
SJX Watches
Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva
In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva. Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques. While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online. While W&W; remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W; or its future equivalent. Pop-up details Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month. Place de Longemalle 15 120...
Quill & Pad
Warning, Watchporn Inside: Video Of X-Rated Timepieces By Blancpain – Reprise
Classic on the front, party in the back: that about sums up the traditional erotic timepiece. And one of the modern masters of the erotic watch is Blancpain. In this excellent video by The Watches TV, you’ll discover what “hot horologerie” is all about!
Quill & Pad
10 Astronomical Complications That Have Not Been Invented As Suggested By ChatGPT: I Thought That A ‘Time Dilation Monitor’ Has Promise, But May Require Quantum Entanglement
Open AI's ChatGPT is many a lot of news and headlines recently, so Ian Skellern thought to see if this powerful technology could advance horology by asking it to, "Give him 10 astronomical complications for wristwatches that have not been invented yet." This is what it suggested . . .
SJX Watches
The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China
A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...
Quill & Pad
50 Shades Of Pink: Salmon Dials Go From Strength To Strength – Reprise
Salmon-colored dials are still niche market and Martin Green doesn't expect them to go mainstream anytime soon. Nonetheless, pink has become something of a buzz topic, and here he shares a few of his favorite watches with pink, pinkish, or salmon-colored dials.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement
Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well. The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: Hollywood Pay-To-Play Has Drained The Fun Out Of The Red Carpet
Brand partnerships are a necessary evil, but I still wish other watches could get their time in the spotlight. Here's what I'd love to see at this year's Oscars.
Time+Tide
Have you been robbed of a Rolex, a butterfly collection or a mammoth’s tooth? This guy may have it…
If you’ve had a Rolex stolen in the last 20 years, Bologna police want to hear from you. That’s because there’s a chance you might finally be reunited. The police recently seized 100,000 items including diamonds, watches and necklaces from an Italian pensioner who had spent years buying and hoarding stolen goods. The Times reports … ContinuedThe post Have you been robbed of a Rolex, a butterfly collection or a mammoth’s tooth? This guy may have it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Updates their Pontos Chronograph with a Pair of New References
Just ahead of Watches & Wonders, Maurice Lacroix has unveiled a pair of new chronographs in their Pontos line. While most enthusiasts are probably looking at Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon line of integrated bracelet sports watches, collections like the Pontos have their own charm and help paint a fuller picture of the brand, which is always straddling a line between sporty and refined, and doing it at a price point that welcomes a wide range of collectors. The new Pontos chronographs seen here feature dials in black and slate gray, the former with white accents, and the latter with hints of rose gold. The Pontos has a familIr three register layout, but the sub registers at 12:00 and 6:00 (minute and hour totalizers, respectively) are larger than the running seconds subdial at 9:00. It’s a subtle shift from the norm but gives the dial a little bit of additional visual interest and funk. It’s like a “Big Eye,” but with two eyes. I’m sure the community can come up with an appropriate nickname. The most significant changes in these new versions of the Pontos concern the hour markers and handset. Time is now read via Arabic numerals at the dial’s perimeter, with a minute track located in the rehaut. Maurice Lacroix has also refined the hands with a modest bit of skeletonization at their base. Both the black and gray have a sunburst effect applied to their surfaces, and in these Maurice Lacroix supplied photos, it looks particularly striking in gray. Black dials, o...
Time+Tide
Drive time: The 6 best watch and car brand collaborations
Watches have been inextricably linked with cars for the longest time, a symbiotic partnership that boomed once motor racing became a worldwide phenomenon. This prompted vehicle and watch manufacturers alike to seek partnerships with each other, serving the audience whose interests are so commonly occupied by the two. A notable omission from this list is … ContinuedThe post Drive time: The 6 best watch and car brand collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Nivada Launches the F77, a Reissue of their Own 1970s Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch
It would be easy to say that Nivada Grenchen is jumping onto the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon with their latest release, the F77, but that would be entirely unfair and miss the point of this reissue altogether. This is a release that Nivada has been teasing on social media for months, and now that we can see the finished product, it’s pretty clear that it fits in neatly with the rest of the brand’s catalog, and is deserving of having a moment in the spotlight, irrespective of where the larger conversation is when it comes to watches in this genre. To be honest, we have been talking about integrated bracelet sports watches for so long and at such a high pitch, it’s hard to know the temperature on these in a wider context. But that’s completely fine, as it allows us to look at the F77 on its own terms. The first critical piece of information to know about the F77 is that like other Nivada Grenchen releases, it’s based on an actual historical piece, and falls squarely into the broad “reissue” category. Launched in 1977, it was a particularly early example of the integrated sports watch. Vintage examples are quite rare, but still remain largely under the radar, which will perhaps change as the new version makes its way onto wrists, social media, and the public consciousness. What we have in the new F77 is a sports watch that is largely faithful to the original version from the late 70s. Sized at just 37mm, it has an intentionally small footprint...
Worn & Wound
Full Send Personified: A Day of Extreme Freeride Skiing, Extreme Terrain and ‘Extreme’ Watches with Alpina
“Three, two, one … GO!” Leif Mumma stabs the hard-packed snow with his ski poles and launches himself out of the start gate. He immediately takes a different, more central line down the steep Ozone face. By the looks of his sheer speed and direct approach, he’s charging hard, taking the mountain head-on. Judging his quick decision making and go-big-or-go-home style, you wouldn’t think that this is Mumma’s first rodeo, but it is. He’s just a rookie on the Freeride World Tour. With a handful of speed, Mumma dramatically cuts in and out, just holding onto his ski’s edges down what seems to be one of thinner areas on the mountain face. He makes one technical jump off a rock face, lands, then cuts right. Then another. As Mumma dances around several spruce trees, the oohs and aahs arise from the spectators along the opposite ridge. At that moment, we’re all witnessing poetry in motion. All Downhill From Here Suddenly, an audible crack breaks the excitement. The mountain face starts to erupt on Mumma’s left as he completes a 20 foot jump. Whatever snow that was settled along the lower center portion of the face has now released, rushing down like a raging waterfall. Mumma is just out of the avalanche’s grip as he attempts his last trick. Out of nowhere Mumma’s ski gets caught by a sharkie (an exposed rock in a sea of snow that resembles a shark’s dorsal fin). He’s projected off of the face, his arms and poles flapping like a wingless bird, and his body...