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Results for Equation of Time

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Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Madison Avenue boutique Jun 7, 2024

Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive

Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More Fratello
Audemars Piguet Jun 7, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will follow up on last week’s list of full-lume-dial watches with something new. First, thank you to all of you who added some great suggestions in the comments under last week’s list. There were quite a few great ones that could have easily been featured among ours. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of The First Half Of 2024 - Featuring Piaget, Parmigiani, Audemars Piguet, And More to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More Fratello
Omega Ming Seiko Jun 7, 2024

Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More

Fratello On Air is back after more than two weeks. We didn’t plan to be away, but illness and travel got in the way again. Today, we talk about some new releases after our normal banter about a variety of topics. We hope you enjoy the show and, yes, we’ll be back in a few […] Visit Fratello On Air: A Flurry Of New Releases From Omega, Ming, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Partners Jun 4, 2024

De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast

Over the last few years, De Rijke & Co. has built out an unlikely niche within the watch world: making highly desirable character watches featuring the beloved “Miffy” character, a staple of children’s books in the Netherlands, the brand’s home country. After the launch of the first successful Miffy moonphase, there have been several additional variants released in short order, offering colorful takes on a whimsical subject. I think most would probably agree that this represented a somewhat unexpected turn in the life of De Rijke. When we first encountered them, it was as a maker of a clever driver’s watch, with a unique case that allows the dial to be rotated within a cage to suit a driver’s needs. What’s more, De Rijke has always offered customers the ability to customize their watches to a high degree, allowing for a truly bespoke experience. The Miffy watches have been fun, but if you knew the brand before, they felt almost like a diversion.  De Rijke never stopped making those custom pieces of course, so it would be unfair to ask “What happened to this brand?” or something similarly dramatic. They haven’t gone anywhere, but clearly took an opportunity to capitalize on a watch concept that became a bit of a sensation with a very specific crowd. But now, for the first time since I’ve been writing about them, De Rijke is back with a new series that is not Miffy based, but still has a sense of that whimsy. The new entries in the Amalfi series are ba...

Introducing – The Rose Gold & Brown Dial Version of the Piaget Polo Date Monochrome
Piaget Polo Date Piaget has Jun 4, 2024

Introducing – The Rose Gold & Brown Dial Version of the Piaget Polo Date

Piaget has been busy celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. As a precursor of ultra-thin movements since the 1950s, Piaget has recovered its throne and is basking in the limelight with its world record-breaking 2mm-thin Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. While it does not hold a world record, Piaget’s flamboyant 1979 Polo watch has also been […]

Hands-On With The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day - A Watch Made Out Of D-Day History Fratello
Jun 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day - A Watch Made Out Of D-Day History

On the 6th of June this year, it will have been exactly 80 years since D-Day took place on the beaches of Normandy. By that day’s end, 156,000 Allied troops successfully stormed the French beaches during Operation Overlord. To commemorate this historic day, Praesidus releases the special C-47 A-11 D-Day. This version of the brand’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day - A Watch Made Out Of D-Day History to read the full article.

MB&F; Ups the Ante with the New LM Sequential Flyback, a Significant Advancement for a One of a Kind Chronograph Worn & Wound
MB&F; Jun 3, 2024

MB&F; Ups the Ante with the New LM Sequential Flyback, a Significant Advancement for a One of a Kind Chronograph

MB&F; has announced its second-ever chronograph, the LM Sequential Flyback, a spiritual and technical follow-up to the LM Sequential EVO that evolves its predecessor’s double chronograph with the addition of a flyback function, all in a platinum version of one of MB&F;’s most wearable cases. When MB&F; released the LM Sequential EVO in 2022, the biggest surprise wasn’t how good the watch was or even that MB&F; would think to release a watch with not one, but two chronograph trains. No, the most surprising thing about that watch was that, up until that point, MB&F; had never produced any sort of chronograph. Considering the wide range of extraordinary and experimental watches MB&F; has released over the years, the omission of a chronograph seemed obvious in retrospect, even if we hadn’t noticed the glaring hole in the moment. But that omission was more than accounted for with the release of the LM Sequential EVO, a watch that I readily count among my favorite releases of the last five or so years, and which, thanks to a pair of chronograph trains and a mechanism MB&F; calls the “Twinverter” presented a new and unique take on what a chronograph could be. But apparently, it wasn’t everything MB&F; and Stephen McDonnell (one of the brand’s earliest friends, who built movements for the HM No.1 and developed the movements for the Legacy Machine Perpetual, the LM Sequential EVO, and, now, the LM Sequential Flyback) wanted it to be. Development constraints and the inherent...

First Look – The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon Jun 3, 2024

First Look – The Discreet Luxury of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Extra Special” Chronometer Jun 3, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.

A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...

First Look – The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day and Sand Dial, Tribute to the 80th Anniversary of the Normandy Landings Monochrome
Jun 3, 2024

First Look – The Praesidus C-47 A-11 D-Day and Sand Dial, Tribute to the 80th Anniversary of the Normandy Landings

Praesidus has become well known for affordable World War II-inspired collections. Recent examples include the A-11 Marston Mat Limited Edition (with actual D-Day Marston Mat dials) and The Type A-11 DD-45 (based on World War II Dirty Dozen combat watches). A new pair of limited-edition models pay homage to D-DAY for the 80th anniversary and […]

It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Fratello
MB&F; Jun 3, 2024

It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum

The chronograph that won the GPHG Aiguille d’Or two years ago is now available in platinum. Well, not exactly. The 33 pieces of the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum have an extra function compared to the prize-winning watch - a flyback function. On top of that, the chronograph comes in a different case. The sporty EVO […] Visit It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum to read the full article.

Masterpieces of Historical English Watchmaking at Phillips SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 767 Jun 1, 2024

Masterpieces of Historical English Watchmaking at Phillips

Phillips’ upcoming New York auction, taking place on June 8 and 9, includes an unusual number of exceptional, highly complicated English pocket watches. Notably, these watches were consigned by the same discerning collector who owned the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 with double split-seconds that recently sold for US$1.30 million including fees. All dating from the late 19th to early 20th century, the pocket watches exemplify the most prestigious type of timepiece in the world during the period, the high-quality English watch. Banker J. Pierpont Morgan, for instance, was an avid collector of English watches, and owned what was then the most complicated watch in the world, and made in England naturally. Quintessentially English That, however, was also when English watchmaking of this quality peaked. A victim of economic crises, war, and unwillingness to adopt new manufacturing technologies, high-end English watchmaking would go extinct after the Great Depression, though it has been revived in the 21st century in artisanal form thanks to the likes of Charles Frodsham. English watches in their heyday were often very complicated, but restrained in terms of movement decoration. This same philosophy would later be employed by George Daniels, who understood that quality did not equal decoration. He famously said on several occasions that a high-quality watches does not need fanciful decoration (which he implied was customarily Swiss). The auction includes five English pocket ...

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet increased May 31, 2024

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph Worn & Wound
May 30, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph

Maurice de Mauriac in 1997, and helmed by twins Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss since 2021, has carved out a niche as one of the more playful and eccentric modern independent watch brands. Their watches are known for their use of color and materials, even extending to the plethora of strap and bracelet options available. There are a total of 113 options on their website, to say you are spoiled for choice would be an understatement. New for 2024 is a mountain of a watch, inspired by a mountain of a man. When everyone else is making them smaller, MDM is making them big. The Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Big Date Deep Blue is a large name for well… a large watch. Since we are on the subject, might as well get the measurements out of the way, as there are 2 available sizes. Large and extra-large. The former is 45mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 53mm, while the latter is 48mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 56mm. The cases seen here with a blue dial are titanium (the watch is also offered in bronze and steel). Inspired by 6’4”, 320 pound Swiss wrestler Samir Leuppi, these watches are meant for big wrists like his and Maurice de Mauriac does not dispute it. These are definitely not for the timid of wrist. One of the wonderful benefits of a larger watch is uncanny legibility, exemplified here with big bold Arabic numerals at the outer minute track and a big date complication at 12:00.  The other distinguishing feature of this watch is the ornate knurled b...

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW Fratello
VPC Type 37HW It has May 30, 2024

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW

It has been a while since the last episode of Building A Watch Brand. In fact, that was a full month before the big launch, which took place on March 7th. As you may have gathered elsewhere, the VPC Type 37HW presale was a success, meeting the threshold number of sales over the first weekend. […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

First Look – The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver While May 28, 2024

First Look – The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

While most have the highly successful and appealing Aikon collection in mind, the brand’s vision of an accessible luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Maurice Lacroix has more items on the menu. Specifically, there’s a watch that we’ve long appreciated here at MONOCHROME, a rather unique take on the diver with a bit of […]