Hodinkee
Hands-On: Victorinox’s Latest Titanium Diver – The Dive Pro
An industrial tool dive watch straight out of the land-locked hills of Switzerland.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of those historical, influential timepieces that has been occasionally imitated but never really equaled in its appeal. Tracing its origins back nearly a hundred years, It is the most prominent and enduring example of Art Deco design in the 21st Century watch world and one of the first and most successful examples of a tool watch that transcended its utilitarian origins to become a stylish and indisputably unisex fashion accessory. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the Reverso and how it has maintained its iconic status in a century of shifting trends and industry headwinds. Foundations: Jaeger Meets LeCoultre Antoine LeCoultre Today a watchmaking house renowned for both its high-luxury pedigree and a high-horology acumen nearly unmatched in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the humblest of beginnings. In 1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803 - 1881), descendant of farmers and blacksmiths, started making timepieces in his family’s small barn in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Learning metallurgy from his father at the family forge, LeCoultre developed an early interest in watchmaking and proved to be an influential innovator of his era. His so-called “millionomètre,” completed in 1844, had a profound impact on the precise manufacture of watch parts as it was the first instrument able to measure 1/1000ths of a millimeter, aka microns. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Hyde Park, LeCoultre was awa...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Czapek Complicité Place Vendôme Stardust Cobalt
Dual regulators were invented by horology’s illustrious grandfathers to improve accuracy and stability. Names like Huygens, who introduced the concept of resonance inside his movements, and others like Breguet, Berthoud and Janvier are all associated with this alignment of double regulators. Coveted by collectors, this rara avis is not extinct and reinterpreted by contemporary wizards […]
Worn & Wound
Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager
Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone. The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble. The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Review
IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend. There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...
Worn & Wound
Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber
French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...
Time+Tide
The Beaucroft Seeker 37mm is a great example of why microbrands exist
A compact case, sultry teal dial, and Miyota movement combine to make this a compelling daily companion.The post The Beaucroft Seeker 37mm is a great example of why microbrands exist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54
In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...
Worn & Wound
Photo Report: Blade Show 2024 Recap
Blade Show Atlanta is known as the mecca for anything pocket knife or edge tool related. Touted as the “World’s Largest Knife Show,” it offers an astonishing selection of blades, from cutting edge designs to traditional heritage pieces. Much like the Windup Watch fair, Blade Show offers a unique experience to explore new brands, shop exclusive offerings, and connect with their favorite manufacturers. At this year’s show, I was able to connect with some of my favorite brands, namely Big Idea Design, Notorious EDC, OEG EDC, Tactile Turn/Knife Company, and Benchmade: vendors whose products make up the majority of my carry and help me solve problems every day. While it’s wonderful to experience all of the vendors and their offerings, the one thing that takes this show to another level is the people you’ll meet. I love to chat with manufacturers and learn more about their items and work process, but I find the most joy in connecting with other attendees and content creators in the industry. Over the three day show, I was able to connect face-to-face with countless people who I’ve met digitally over social media, and have inspired me to create new content, push boundaries, and grow as a photographer. One brand in particular, Bober Blades was super interesting to check out in person their build process was exciting to learn about. From watches to patches, and pocket knives to swords, there’s no shortage of amazing gear at Blade Show. Throughout this arti...
Fratello
Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat
Doxa’s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa’s cushion-cased offerings […] Visit Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat to read the full article.
Fratello
Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis
The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The Gerber Gear Assert
Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed, while keeping a secure grip. Over the past 85 years, Gerber Gear has made knives and tools that have become legends in their own right, from providing knives and multi-tools for soldiers on the front lines to making essential gear for hunters, anglers, adventurers, and trade workers alike. Today, we’re taking just a minute with Gerber Gear’s lightweight everyday carry knife, the Assert. Designed with daily use in mind, the Assert weighs in at just under 2 ounces and features a 3″ blade, making it easy to carry year-round. Whether you’re opening letters or packages, you’ll find the S30v steel blade holds quite the edge. Between the adjustable thumb stud, ambidextrous pivot lock, and textured handle, you can easily operate this knife one-handed...
Fratello
Back To Basics: What Are Some Essential Watch Tools?
We love our straps here at Fratello and offer a wide variety of great options. But what about essential watch tools? Is it worthwhile to spend more for a higher-grade strap-changing tool, and what is a good starting point? This article will introduce the basics. Read on. I don’t know about you, but when I […] Visit Back To Basics: What Are Some Essential Watch Tools? to read the full article.
Fratello
Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115
When King Seiko watches returned to the scene a few years ago, they did so with the instantly recognizable KSK case shape. Of course, we always knew more shapes would follow at some point, and here they are! I am a big fan of the 2022 release, and the SPB281 was my daily watch for […] Visit Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Evocative Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide
Atelier Holgur is a small Singapore-based brand with Nordic roots and a specific take on tough dive watches. Since the release of its debut model, the Frømand (meaning “frogman” in Danish), Atelier Holgur has tweaked its distinct design language. By introducing the Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide, the evolution is apparent. We love our tool […] Visit Introducing: The Evocative Atelier Holgur Frømand Edition Fumée Silver Tide to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alexander Sandlass
Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we have a selection from watch and gear enthusiast Alexander Sandlass. These three pieces run the gamut in terms of pricing (and Alexander takes advantage of pre-owned pricing for one heavy hitter) but all are icons in their own way. The two value oriented pieces (both of which Alexander actually owns) are classic enthusiast tool watches, and could form the basis for an impressive two watch collection, while the third piece is a very different kind of watch, but indisputably great looking. When choosing three watches within this budget, one might criticize that I do not take the typical tiered approach when it comes to prices of each piece. Each piece to me holds a certain intrinsic value, and that is why these three watches were chosen. These three watches, to me, are the perfect combination for all purposes. Casio G-SHOCK GMW-B5000 – $550 My first choice is a G-SHOCK GMW-B5000. When I first saw this watch, it brought back memories of when I was younger picking out the “cheap” version at Walmart, thinking I was a badass with a G-Shock. Now, this version is much more rugged, making it the perfect watch for daily carry, and one that you don’t mind if it gets a little banged and scratched up. At a price point of $550, it is not the cheapest “beater watch,” but it will last a long time with proper upkeep along with recommended battery care. That being said, the solar capabilities are a...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic
The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function. The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality. A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...
Fratello
IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch
Luminescent materials have been a part of watchmaking for generations. The use of radioactive materials in the last century was fundamental in the design of tool watches that could allow the owner an opportunity to tell the time in darkened conditions. Thankfully, we no longer have to rely on radioactive materials to achieve this outcome, […] Visit IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: Familiar Favorites and Some Newcomers Too
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we kick things off with something you’ve never seen before: the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver made in collaboration with the RedBar watch club. Next, we appreciate the fact that G-Shock has made a genuinely smaller everyday watch in the form of the Digital Basic. The Remix from Gerber is our kit feature this week, while our very own Hexagon Watch Tube covers all your watch storage needs. Last but not least, the Citizen “Fugu” dive watch is our deal of the week. You won’t want to miss any of this. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, whi...
Fratello
Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron
Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Raising the Bar: A Recap of the 2024 San Francisco Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo
Each Windup Watch Fair is special in its own way. We make memories, strengthen old connections, make new ones, and hopefully walk away with a cool watch on our wrists. But speak to anyone who attended the 2024 Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo in San Francisco, and they’ll instantly tell you there was something extra special happening there. The Venue This was the first time that we held the Fair at Gateway Pavilion, a two-level, open-floor plan environment on Pier 2, within the Fort Mason complex, an arts and culture campus operated by the National Parks Department. With its stunning views, ample natural light, and wide-open arrangement, it became an ideal place to bring enthusiasts together. The Brands All in all, we ended up having 94 unique and incredible brands participate in the show between both watch and non-watch companies-the largest Windup to date. We want to give a massive thank you to each and every sponsor who came to the event and a special thanks to our Lead Sponsors: Alpina, anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, and Oris. It was incredible to see the wide variety of new watches and products at the Fair, many of which were launched to the world for the first time at the event itself. You could literally feel the enthusiasm in the air! The Enthusiasts Speaking of enthusiasm, the crowds that came each day of the three-day event were energized and engaged. Thousands flocked to our Fort Mason venue to soak in both the products and the panels! They came to lear...
Fratello
Introducing: The Ming 37.09 Bluefin Diver
I always find new releases from Ming interesting, but the thought of a new diver from the brand brings me to the edge of my seat. Ming’s designers rarely dabble in tool watches, so when they do, it’s worth taking notice. Today’s new 37.09 Bluefin comes nearly four years after the original Ming diver, the […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.09 Bluefin Diver to read the full article.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Eric Ku And Justin Gruenberg (Loupe This)
Talking auctions, markets, Cartier London and a whole lot more with two mega dealers. They also tell us the one watch they'd love to snag from the other's collection.
Fratello
Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482
Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sinn T50 Review: Overengineered Titanium Excellence
The Sinn T50 is a tool watch by every measure of the phrase. Sinn took the chassis of the U50, swapped it to Titanium, “fixed” the handset, and added their Ar-Dehumidifying technology. It is this golden ratio of utility perfection, in my opinion. The same week the T50 was delivered, I departed on a two-week-long trip to Scotland. This was a perfect opportunity to get some long dedicated time with it for this review and I am eager to share my experiences with you.
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Our Favorite Summer Watches Under $2,000
Five contenders for your next daily driver, from a retro-funky Zodiac to one of Unimatic's most hardworking divers yet.
Time+Tide
DWISS doubles down on a novel time-telling display with the M3S
Dubbed the "mysterious signature hours", DWISS presents another new, but affordable way to tell time.The post DWISS doubles down on a novel time-telling display with the M3S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles is a straightforward daily watch with a slightly formal air. Before the rise of sports watches as everyday pieces, this Tissot model would have been considered “a watch” - in other words, not the type of piece that an enthusiast site like Fratello normally covers. However, the new Chemin des […] Visit Hands-On: The New Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratelli Stories: This Tudor Submariner Has A Special Place In Graeme’s Collection
In the latest installment in our Fratelli Stories series, we talk to Graeme. He’s a Scottish collector with a passion for vintage tool watches, and his Tudor Submariner has a special place in his collection. Vintage watches are a wonderful opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts alike. The sheer number of options available to us at […] Visit Fratelli Stories: This Tudor Submariner Has A Special Place In Graeme’s Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...