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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Dec 12, 2024

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar

As someone who typically leans towards the toolish side of Seiko’s offerings, there was something about the watch I bring you today which stopped me in my tracks for an inexplicable reason. Perhaps it is explicable (perhaps in real time while writing this) and I may figure out a way to explic...I mean, explain it. Yes, I am coming to you to introduce a new Seiko Presage Classic model. It is called the SPB478J1, and I think it just might be the attainable dress watch of the year. Okay, taking a step back for a moment, I am a Rolex guy and a two-tone guy. I regularly wear a two-tone Rolex Datejust on a jubilee bracelet so I certainly have a type. And you can see from looking at this watch, the Seiko SPB478J1, that it fits nicely into this category for me. Getting my biases out of the way, let’s dig into the watch. So Seiko, as we know, calls its watches by their reference numbers. But it also gave this one a nice little descriptor on the website: Delicate Cream Silk. I mean, come on, that’s amazing. It’s almost like it could be the alternative name of a band consisting of Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak. The name actually refers to the watch’s dial because, of course it does. The dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” The brand calls this a ‘Shiro-Iro’ colored dial.  Moving to the watch itself, it features gold-colored accents for a mixed-met...

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands Fratello
Dec 12, 2024

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands

Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.

Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin has Dec 10, 2024

Insight: The Modern Performance Chronograph Movement

High-end chronograph movements of today tend to have in common a vertical clutch and column wheel. Such “performance” chronographs are typically also automatic, and practically every high-end watchmaker, from Audemars Piguet to Vacheron Constantin, has its own take on the modern “performance” chronograph. The chronograph movement as we know it today is actually a fairly recent invention. Despite being common in today’s chronograph constructions, the vertical coupling, or at least its concept, is decades-old. The Pierce cal. 130/134 launched in the 1930s is regarded as the first commercially available wristwatch with a vertical clutch. There are examples of even older stopwatches that relied on crude forms of the vertical clutch, but most were either prototypes or small-batch production. But the large-scale use of the vertical clutch only started in the late 1960s, when Seiko debuted the cal. 6139. Launched in 1969, the Seiko cal. 6139 was a vertical clutch movement produced on an industrial scale. Not only was it among the first-ever automatic chronographs, but the cal. 6139 also was objectively the most advanced amongst them. Compared to the modular construction of the Breitling-Heuer Chronomatic Caliber 11 and the fairly classical architecture of the Zenith El Primero, the Seiko cal. 6139 was endowed with a vertical clutch and a novel construction all around. It was, however, an industrial, no-frills movement at heart. The one that started it all – the cal. ...

Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade Fratello
Farer Endurance Models Dec 7, 2024

Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade

Farer is one of the OGs of the microbrand universe. Founded in 2015, the brand prides itself on British design and Swiss production. Over the years, Farer found a style of its own and a clever position within the greater watch market, making it a household name today. This week, the brand announced a new […] Visit Introducing: Two Limited-Edition Farer Endurance Models In Gunmetal And Jade to read the full article.

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko Fratello
Seiko Our Fratelli Stories series Dec 4, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko

Our Fratelli Stories series shares some of the wonderful and interesting backstories of our readers around the world. Today, we speak with Robert Eames, who is an enthusiast for all sorts of watches and has a fascinating backstory. One vintage Seiko has particular resonance with him. Fratello reader Robert Eames wrote in after a story […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko to read the full article.

The IWC Ingenieur 40, Now in Classic Blue SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur 40 Now Dec 4, 2024

The IWC Ingenieur 40, Now in Classic Blue

IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...

Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition Fratello
Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition Dec 2, 2024

Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition

Since visiting Armin Strom at Geneva Watch Days 2024, I’ve been keeping an eye out for the brand’s newest releases. Today, the Tribute 2 Copper Edition makes its debut, and it’s a gorgeous watch with a beautifully detailed dial and mainplate. Métiers d’Art are a popular trend, and this watch perfectly infuses them. Handcrafted dials […] Visit Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition to read the full article.

Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage Fratello
Moritz Grossmann Dec 1, 2024

Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage

Today, we’ll look at the new Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage. This is a limited-edition watch celebrating the 16th anniversary of the brand’s revival. As always with Moritz Grossmann, the focus is on finishing and mechanical prowess. For fans of Moritz Grossmann watches, the new Enamel Roman Vintage isn’t a new model. It’s a variant […] Visit Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage to read the full article.

Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet Fratello
Junghans Laco Nov 30, 2024

Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet

Circula was founded in 1955 by the grandfather of Cornelius Huber, the current owner. As a family business, the brand established itself in the German town of Pforzheim, a watchmaking hotspot that’s home to brands such as Junghans, Laco, and Stowa. Today, the brand releases a new model with a new level of quality and […] Visit Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet to read the full article.

#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches Fratello
Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches I Nov 28, 2024

#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches

I will be highly opinionated today, and I am ready to take a few punches if you disagree with me. No matter how simple a Cartier design is, it’s heavy. Heavy for self-esteem, that is. There are exceptions, but generally speaking, I don’t see Cartier as a door-opening brand for watch collecting, whether modern or […] Visit #TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches to read the full article.

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Nov 28, 2024

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise

Today, Americans sit down at their Thanksgiving table with their friends and family, and consider all that they’re thankful for. Good health, a warm home, great company, and a delicious meal will top many lists, as they should. But if you’ll allow a quick thought experiment (really, all of this is just one big thought experiment, if you think about it) and narrow the focus of thanks to the watch world, I’d have to say that the singular event of the last few years that I’m most thankful for is whatever transpired during the first meeting between the team at Louis Erard and watchmaker Vianny Halter. It led to a collaboration that launched a thousand other collaborations (slight exaggeration, but maybe not), and brought an affordable indie brand and a Capital I Independent watchmaking legend together in a genuinely interesting way. There’s a compelling case to be made that the first Louis Erard x Vianney Halter collaboration was the seed of many similar LEs to come, from Louis Erard and other brands, so it makes sense that just like that first collab, their second drops on Thanksgiving weekend, bringing one of the most interesting stories in contemporary watches full circle.  While the first collaboration with Halter felt like one of his watches in spirit, the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II takes steps to make the physical object feel more like a watch that could have come out of Halter’s workshop. Using Halter’s iconic Antiqua as inspiratio...

Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special Fratello
Nov 28, 2024

Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, we are celebrating our 100th-episode milestone with a special Q&A;. We asked you to send us your questions, and you delivered. We’ve gathered, sorted, and selected said questions over the past few weeks, and in today’s episode, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas come together to answer them. We cover […] Visit Fratello Talks: The 100th-Episode Q&A; Special to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: An In-Person Recording And Holiday Gift Guide Fratello
Nov 27, 2024

Fratello On Air: An In-Person Recording And Holiday Gift Guide

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re a little later this week than usual because we decided to record this episode in person in London. We discuss several topics but end with a brief holiday gift guide. Our watch content starts after approximately 20 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: An In-Person Recording And Holiday Gift Guide to read the full article.

The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights Fratello
Nov 26, 2024

The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights

Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.

A Modern Look for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077 SJX Watches
Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077 Breguet Nov 25, 2024

A Modern Look for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077

Breguet gently revamps its flagship chronograph, the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077, with the addition of “Breguet Blue” dial matched with a movement finished in dark grey. Originally only available with a classic silvered guilloche dial, the Tradition chronograph now gains a more modern look with a deep blue and grey palette, while retaining the same innovative chronograph movement. Initial thoughts The Tradition collection is one of the modern-day Breguet’s triumphs. Launched in 2005, the collection draws heavily from the watchmaker’s historic souscription and montre à tact pocket watches, which were created by A.-L. Breguet himself.  Tradition models adopt the highly original movement construction of the pocket watches, transforming them into wristwatch format. The going train layout, frosted bridges, and pare-chute shock-absorbers, for instance, all are faithful to the historic pieces.  Unique in itself for its chronograph construction, the Chronographe Indépendant 7077 is among the most complicated models in the Tradition collection. The original look of a silver guilloché dial worked well, but the deep blue colour of the new model works even better in complementing the exposed mechanics. The chronograph, reinvented The Tradition chronograph exists somewhat outside of the established norms of a chronograph movement, namely the vertical clutch and horizontal coupling. It features a chronograph architecture that is unique in the industry. The cal....

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Nov 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Nov 15, 2024

Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Back in April 2024, I had a chance to check out the olive-green version of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. While that earlier release walked a fine line between a saturated green and warm gray, today’s new watch takes a stealthier black approach. But don’t let that fool you because the rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer Fratello
Nov 14, 2024

Hands-On With The New Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer

Over the past year, we’ve reviewed several watches from Brellum. The team has always been impressed with the pieces’ build quality and relative affordability. However, we and our readers have been hoping for smaller-diameter watches. That day is here with the new Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer. Previously reviewed Brellum watches have measured in the 42–43mm […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Duobox 39 Chronometer to read the full article.

Hot Take: Is Everything Right With The Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655? Fratello
Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni Nov 13, 2024

Hot Take: Is Everything Right With The Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655?

Panerai recently released the Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655. What’s in a name? Well, the fact that it is a Luminor with an eight-day power reserve that is supposed to be worn on your right (destro, in Italian) arm. That pretty much sums up what this new Luminor is all about. So, is everything right […] Visit Hot Take: Is Everything Right With The Panerai Luminor Destro Otto Giorni PAM01655? to read the full article.

Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Nov 12, 2024

Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition

As part of the 140th Anniversary celebrations, Breitling has released a limited edition Chronomat 42 just for the Australian and New Zealand market, with 140 pieces available. As an Australian publication, we just had to get our hands on it! What We Love: The “Arctic White” dial is fresh and clean The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear Size is great and will wear well for most wrist sizes What We Don’t: The way the strap is reversed and threads through towards the body The chronograph pushers are slightly on the stiffer side The anti-reflective coating can be easily seen looking at the watch and dial Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling’s Chronomat has been around for a little while, 82 years in fact, and the original watch resembled a Navitimer more than the modern Chronomat we know today. In fact, the Chronomat was Brerilting’s first slide rule watch and was designed for mathematicians to do complex calculations with the watch – hence the original name CHRONOgraph for MAThematicians, Chronomat. At the time, is was a world first, and what Breitling dubbed, the worlds first “Smart Watch”. It’s a nice play on words and back in 1942, it was revolutionary and was one of Willy Breilting’s most loved products. An original Chronomat from 1942, complete with slide rule. If you think this looks like a Navitier, you would be correct as this was the first watc...

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Nov 10, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial

In April 2024, Zenith introduced the Defy Extreme Diver, a bold and modern dive watch. The brand is most famous for its chronographs, so a new diver is big news. The initial release brought a pair of black- and blue-dialed watches. Today, an icy silver version joins the lineup as a serial-production model. This year’s […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial to read the full article.