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Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin gives the Freak [ONE] its first taste of decorative arts in two very different flavours: Guilloché and Blue Enamel.
Monochrome
Girard-Perragaux‘s involvement in the world of sports cars and Formula 1 isn’t new. Back in the 1990s, the brand conceived multiple watches in partnership with Ferrari and, more recently, sponsored the Aston Martin F1 Team (from 2021 to 2025). For the 2026 season, the watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds is back on the starting grid. This […]
Worn & Wound
Last month, Girard-Perregaux announced its latest involvement in the Formula 1 scene with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team. We knew a collaborative watch would soon follow, and the moment has unfolded. Here, we get the debut duo of watches in the new Laureato Williams Edition lineup. If you’ve been reading my take on timepieces for a while, you know I’m a longtime fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. In the vast world of integrated bracelet sport watches, I’ve always found it to be one of the most refined and easily dressed up while remaining subtle and effortless enough for daily wear. With these new interpretations of the iconic design for the Atlassian Williams F1 Team, we get some of the sportiest takes on the model, proving the Laureato offers a versatile canvas that can truly embody both the “luxurious” and “sporty” sides of the luxury sport watch. As the brand’s flagship line, the Laureato has long served as the foundation for Girard-Perregaux’s collaborations and has taken many sizes, styles, and shapes over the years. However, the choice of this particular collection for the debut models in partnership with the Atlassian Williams F1 Team runs deeper. The Laureato was born in 1975, and the Atlassian Williams F1 Team was born just two years later in 1977, giving the duo roughly 50 years of shared history and evolution. Girard-Perregaux brings us two iterations for its inaugural line honoring the partnership: a chronograph alongside a classic time an...
Hodinkee
What We Know This year marks 50 years since Chopard first "set diamonds free." Which sounds a little cheesy, admittedly, but there is something genuinely joyful about the conceit: diamonds allowed to skitter and spin around a watch dial, never quite landing in the same place twice. Introduced in 1976, the original Happy Diamonds placed unset diamonds inside individual gold capsules, allowing them to move between two sapphire crystals rather than remaining fixed to the dial. The idea reportedly came from sunlight dancing across a waterfall spray in Germany's Black Forest. It would become one of Chopard's most recognizable signatures. To celebrate the anniversary, Chopard is returning to two pivotal moments in the collection's history: the earliest Happy Diamonds watches from 1976 and the original Happy Sport, designed in 1993 by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard's Co-President and Artistic Director. The Chopard Happy Diamonds Heritage watch in 34mm. The smaller version, measuring 24mm. The new Happy Diamonds Heritage watches are direct re-editions of those first models, with cushion-shaped cases in 18-carat ethical yellow gold and polished black onyx dials. Two sizes are available, just as there were in 1976. The larger measures 34mm by 34mm and contains 21 moving diamonds. Inside is Chopard's hand-wound caliber 10.01-C, a tiny 15.7mm-wide movement introduced in 2024. Visible through the sapphire caseback, it runs at 3Hz and offers 45 hours of power reserve. The smaller 24mm vers...
Monochrome
Panerai‘s modern movement story began in 2005, when the company introduced the hand-wound P.2002, its first own calibre, combining a GMT function with an eight-day power reserve. In 2007, the brand expanded its calibre family, also introducing Panerai’s own interpretation of the tourbillon movement, the P.2005, with the tourbillon cage on an axis perpendicular to […]
Worn & Wound
On the surface, the new Grand Seiko SBGW325 ‘Arabic Blue’ Limited Edition is almost aggressively normal. This is a 37mm dress watch that is part of a well established line for the Japanese brand with a tried and true 9S64 manually wound movement. Grand Seiko has made a bunch of these over the years in an endless series of dial variants, often in limited editions made for specific regions, tied to ADs, or to highlight different aspects of Japanese culture. So why does the SBGW325 feel almost confrontational in its boldness? The answer lies right there in the name of the watch. It is so incredibly rare for Grand Seiko to use Arabic numerals on their watch dials, that a watch built around them feels like it’s from another planet, or an alternate reality. For that reason, I think the SBGW325 is probably destined to be some kind of cult classic. This isn’t a judgment based on the success of the visual design of the watch (though I do quite like it), but more a comment on how the Grand Seiko community will seize on this reference as a special thing and hang to it, probably for years. Mark my words: there will be collectors who miss out on this watch, and forlornly make “WTB” posts on Reddit and elsewhere in search of one well into the 2030s. Let’s see if I’m right. You can set your reminders on your smart phone to DM me in October 2033 to check my work. For now, let’s take a closer look at the SBGW325, which becomes available through Grand Seiko channels ne...
Hodinkee
What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...
Monochrome
If you want to talk about iconic designs of the watch industry, then the Luminor collection by Panerai should certainly be on your list… Not only is this watch the brand’s most classic model, but it’s also one of the most recognisable shapes ever created. In recent times, Panerai has operated a “back to the […]
Fratello
Ask watch fans about typical Panerai characteristics, and one of the first things they’ll mention is size. The watches’ large cases have become synonymous with the brand, along with Panerai’s iconic design style, sandwich dials, and the signature crown-protection bridge. But what if you like the Luminor but can’t pull off a 44mm or 47mm […] Visit Exploring New Territory With The 42mm Panerai Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711, And PAM01714 to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2005, Roger Dubuis launched the Excalibur, an imposing 45mm watch that established many of the key aesthetic traits and mechanical audacity that characterise the “hyper horology” the brand practises today. The Knights of the Round Table collection, introduced in 2013, was conceived as a celebration of métiers d’art and took the Arthurian legend to […]
Worn & Wound
Moser has long been a brand who’s unafraid to experiment and test boundaries, creating many designs that have elicited conversation or even debate. Now, the brand is making waves with a new digital timepiece. Here, a skeletonized dial reveals an architecture that combines digital technology with traditional watchmaking in the new Limited Edition Streamliner Off-Grid. Moser first experimented with a hybrid analog/digital timepiece last year with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition. The model features a sober black dial evoking the same vibe as the brand’s trademark Vantablack, but instead of the innovative coating, this black backdrop reveals a digital display at 6 o’clock. Appearing to hover above is the classic analog component in Moser’s typical blue fume. The model was released as a part of the brand’s collaboration with Alpine Motorsports and marked a world first as a timepiece engineered specifically for the needs of a Formula 1 crew, helping them communicate faster, shave off those crucial fractions of a second, and overall streamline operations (pun intended) through the capabilities of the digital display. Now, we get the next evolution of this hybrid style design. While Moser is certainly no stranger to rather out-there designs, the brand does have its own distinct design language, and even with this digital timepiece, we still see those stylistic signatures come through. At the base is, once again, the brand’s iconic Streamliner case with its ple...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex surprised us with the Perpetual Padellone, a new annual calendar and moonphase watch in the Perpetual 1908 family. And judging by some of the early reactions I’ve seen online, Rolex has already managed to piss a few people off. I think it looks fantastic.
Monochrome
When it comes to watch inspirations, automotive and aviation themes have long been part of the game. Video games, however, are catching up. We have already seen retro legends like Donkey Kong and Mario find their way onto dials, Seiko team up with Street Fighter V, and, just a few months ago, Omega brought the […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, I wrote about Moser's interesting play in its ongoing partnership with Formula 1 team Alpine Motorsports, when it introduced a pair of Streamliners, including its first ana-digi effort in the Streamliner Mechanics Edition. Developed with Sequent, a Swiss watch brand focused on producing its own self-charging smartwatches, Moser revealed this (not self-charging) new Streamliner as a connected watch for the Alpine mechanics team. For the general public, Moser released a 500-piece run of the Mechanics Edition watch. That edition was evidently successful enough for Moser to follow up with two new references of this ana-digi Streamliner, in a collection called the Off-Grid. And yes, the irony is not lost on me that any of Moser's mechanical creations are, in principle, way more "off-grid" than a watch you need to recharge. Moser leans into that kind of stuff, and it wouldn't be surprising to me if this was at least partially tongue-in-cheek. But I digress. The Streamliner silhouette on these new Off-Grid watches, with a diameter of 42.6mm and height of 14.4mm, certainly should feel familiar at this point. The diameter seems intimidating, but there is a very compact lug-to-lug fit here, given that there are no lugs to really speak of; rather, the strap attaches directly to the case (see how it looks on my 6.5" wrist). There are two versions here, both in steel—one with a blue PVD coating and one with black. The blue PVD version, which feels much more in...
Monochrome
One of Manuel Emch’s defining moves to put Louis Erard back on solid footing was his collaboration strategy. By inviting avant-garde independent watchmakers such as Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter to create collaborative pieces using the brand’s signature Regulator display, he elevated Louis Erard’s cachet without tying it to stratospheric pricing. Another winning collaboration involves […]
Fratello
Today, H. Moser & Cie. is going digital with the new Off-Grid, a watch that takes the brand’s minimalist approach into some untapped territory. Available in two versions, the Off-Grid combines a 42.6mm PVD-treated steel case with a skeletonized dial and a digital display at 6 o’clock. One version pairs blue PVD with a Blackor […] Visit Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 2024, Swedish independent watchmaker GoS ventured far outside of the world of watch- and knifemaking it is known for, for a unique collaboration. Finding inspiration in the bespoke leather jackets, ready-to-wear goods, and accessories by Swedish designer Martin Key, the project resulted in a rather bold take on GoS’ usual work. While it […]
Fratello
Can beauty be put into numbers? The surprising answer is “yes, it can.” The Fibonacci sequence and the golden ratio have been turning up in discussions about beauty, proportion, and design for centuries. They are said to explain why certain things in nature look pleasing to the eye, from sunflower heads and pinecones to shells […] Visit Mathematical Horological Beauty: Hands-On With The Bianchet Tonneau UltraFino Ceramic Skeleton Deep Blue And White to read the full article.
Monochrome
Lang & Heyne has practised the Saxon approach to independent watchmaking since 2001, working near Dresden and offering watches that combine classical German design with highly elaborate hand-finishing. The manufacture names its collections after figures from the House of Wettin, the Saxon dynasty with an 800-year history in the region. The Friedrich III, originally introduced more […]
Time+Tide
The Venezianico Redentore Levius pairs a featherweight grade 5 titanium case with hand-turned guilloché and an Italian-made V5000 movement.
Fratello
Icons are icons for a reason. Some watches deserve the moniker, no question about it. But quite often, an icon casts a long shadow on other interesting timepieces in a brand’s catalog. The original Genta-designed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has always overshadowed the Royal Oak Offshore. Due to the Offshore’s large size, bold styling, and […] Visit Shadow Icons: The Underappreciated References — Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore to read the full article.
Deployant
This is a late journal entry. I was super pre-occupied with GWD26 during the first week of September, where I usually document the August champagne.
Fratello
Since 2024, Awake has built a strong following with its Sơn Mài dials. These time-intensive creations layer Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf and natural pigments. Last year, the Frosted Leaf technique debuted and won two awards, including first prize in the Jewellery and Artistic Crafts category at the Timepiece World Awards 2025. The brand now […] Visit Harnessing Nature: The Awake Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Blood Moon, Storm, And Lagoon to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Of the three new models released at Watches and Wonders, I believe there is more joy to be found in the simplest of them.
Monochrome
Pocket watches were born in the early 16th century in Germany (Nuremberg eggs) but were very expensive, handmade curiosities that kept horrible time and were composed of components unique to each piece. Replacement parts had to be custom-made, and manufacturing times were long – it could take a year to produce a single watch. This dynamic […]
Fratello
Auret’s inaugural collection, Mederi, gives the brand a personal starting point. Auret is a new name in watchmaking, but its idea is far more human than your usual “here’s our first watch.” The brand was founded in Colombia by an oncologist and watch enthusiast, with the concept built around a pretty simple observation: time is […] Visit Auret Debuts With The Mederi Collection — Swiss Heart, Colombian Soul to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you’re anything like us, you’ll feel more connected (pun intended) to something analogue instead of something digital. A mechanical watch, to us and no doubt many of you, simply feels like it has character, a soul. By extension, the same can be said for cars, with EVs often referred to as dull kitchen appliances […]
Hodinkee
If wearing the Straum Expedition on and off for the last few weeks has reminded me of anything, it's this: It's been a little too long since I last had a good outdoor adventure. For me, 2025 was a year all about getting outside. So far, 2026 hasn't been. That's not necessarily a bad thing — I've sated my need for adventure in other ways this year, and I have found a few days here and there to climb a small mountain or two — but it is a thing, and the new Expedition from Straum has been a definite reminder of that, because this is a watch that's all about getting outside. To me, a watch's success comes down largely to intent. Put another way, does the execution of a watch line up with the story it's trying to tell? It's a harder needle to thread than you might expect, but when a brand gets the balance right, it's magic. Still, I do recognize that wearing a watch, especially a mechanical watch, in 2026 is largely an emotional affect, and most people don't actually need their watches to live up to the promise on the tin. That might help explain why there are so many "dive watches" on the market with minimal water resistance, or why I see so many people on the subway wearing fashion watches with fake pushers and subdials that seem to do nothing. And that's what makes a watch like the Straum Expedition so special—it is exactly what the brand claims it is. A (Very) Brief Primer On Straum If you already know Straum, it's probably thanks to the Jan Mayen. While the Jan Mayen...
Worn & Wound
Think about where we are in watchmaking in 2026. You could argue, pretty reasonably I think, that the problem of chronometry has basically been solved. We have access to mechanical watches that are accurate to seconds per month, and quartz watches that are accurate to seconds per year. There are advancements around the edges (Grand Seiko’s new U.F.A. movement comes to mind, the most accurate watch powered by a mainspring, accurate to 20 seconds per year), but it’s hard to imagine an advancement in timekeeping at this point that would actually be meaningful in our daily lives. For movement geeks, sure, shaving off seconds here and there will always be a fun new development, but for many we’ve reached a point of diminishing returns, where all that really matters are bragging rights by the brands (and those matter a lot – big marketing campaigns are built around them). So where do the advancements come from in the years ahead? Many people with a lot more experience in this industry than me have discussed materials science as the next big step for watch brands, and we’ve certainly seen a lot of alternative materials used in cases and movements over the last few years. Once you go beyond the traditional steel, titanium, and precious metals that watch cases are normally made from, you open yourself up to manufacturing and creative options that are typically encountered across other industries, like the aerospace sector and medical manufacturing. The UK based brand ...
Hodinkee
Congrats on making it through another week, Baller, and your reward, sadly, is not more information about an extraordinary new Rolex, nor is it a pretty fantastic video with a legendary rapper, but instead just a quick roundup of some excellent watches out waiting for new owners. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Smiths DeLuxe sold for 6,000 GBP, the Smiths W10 for €1,400, the Gübelin 18k triple-date moonphase remains available, the Universal Genève FS went for 600 GBP, and the Autavias sells today. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. If you've been holding onto an old steel chronograph pusher cap and don't know the case it works with, maybe have a look at this Heuer chronograph (presumably ref. 2444) and consider the JLC Memovox in the same lot an added bonus. Speaking of Memovox (I'm not guessing the plural of that noun), this sure checks a few boxes should you find yourself in the market for a lovely vintage example. I covered a Hamilton Cross Country a few weeks back, and here's a similar example if that one managed to get its hooks in you. For the Beatles mega-fan in your life, this Old England Apple watch is unlikely to be something they've seen (it's also unlikely to sell for less than 3x the €200 high estimate). This Vacheron Constantin 2045 is just lovely; this Corum bears a shocking resemblance to David Bowie's 1979 SNL performance look, and if there's a cooler tropicalized Carrera up for auction this week than this one, I didn't see it. Omega Suverän You'r...
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