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Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer May 8, 2023

Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel

If you’re in the market for a good two-tone sports watch, then the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel and Ethical 18k Rose Gold may just be the watch you’re looking for! What We Love Wearability and comfortTHAT Iris of the Eagle dial!Sturdy, good looking movement What We Don’t Lack of taper on the braceletNo ability for size adjustmentsClasp not easy to open Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard? The Alpine Eagle in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool. For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose G...

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Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40 SJX Watches
IWC Ingenieur 40 One May 7, 2023

Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40

One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts  With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...

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Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch May 5, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch by Philippe Dufour

Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...

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Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

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Everything you need to know about Norqain Time+Tide
Norqain There are plenty May 3, 2023

Everything you need to know about Norqain

There are plenty of brands who like to talk about adventure, whether it’s marketing a new field watch or boasting about water and resistance. Reading up on Norqain, it’s almost a surprise when you remember that they made watches and not adventure gear like icepicks and tents. So how did Norqain go from nonexistent in … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont SJX Watches
Montblanc May 2, 2023

Business News: Davide Cerrato Appointed CEO of Bremont

An English brand best known for its aviator watches, Bremont has just announced Davide Cerrato will take the helm as chief executive officer. An industry veteran with a background in design, Mr Cerrato will also join Bremont’s board. His career include stints at Panerai and Montblanc (and more recently, a brief tenure at HYT), as well as Tudor, where he played a key role in the brand’s stylistic reboot. Founded by brothers Nick and Giles English in 2002, Bremont has been run by the siblings since its founding. The appointment of Mr Cerrato is the latest development in the evolution two decade-old brand, which recently raised money from investors including hedge fund manager Bill Ackman, valuing the firm at over £100 million. And just last year, Bremont inaugurated a 35,000 ft² facility in Henley-on-Thames, an hour’s drive west of London, known as The Wing after its swooping form. Taken together, these developments clearly reflect the brand’s ambitions to be a global name in premium sports watches. A veteran in the cockpit Bremont got its start as a maker of watches aimed at aviators and soon gained a following for its association with various military fighter units. Amongst its best known watches is a wristwatch developed in cooperation with Martin Baker, the leading maker of ejection seats for fighter aircraft. While the brand’s focus on aviation-inspired timepieces has been the foundations of its success, the appointment of Mr Cerrato will likely bring change...

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Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Apr 27, 2023

Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution

Let’s face it. For most of us, who don’t work in finance or have somehow failed to win the lottery (so far) or be fathered by a particularly indulgent Sheikh, reading about watch auctions is a form of fantasy window shopping. “Hmm,” you nod to yourself approvingly when reading about the platinum Rolex Yacht-Master that … ContinuedThe post Want to dabble in high-end watch auctions but lack the cash? FutureGrail may have the solution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs Worn & Wound
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Apr 26, 2023

Inside the Collection: Common Threads Through Uncommon Chronographs

I am not a chronograph guy. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. I’ve owned my share of chronographs over the years, but they always seem to be first on the chopping block when something new comes along that I need to clear out space for. They also, in general, don’t appeal to me aesthetically. I tend to like a less cluttered, more serene dial than what you’ll find on a typical chronograph, simply because of the nature of the complication itself. And I certainly don’t belong in the nerdiest segment of chronograph lovers, who have deeply held beliefs about the best chronograph movements ever made, and can rattle off the most minute differences between Speedmaster references at the drop of a hat. I admire the dedication and knowledge of these hardcore chronograph superfans, but I’ve never counted myself among them.  And yet, day to day, the watch I’ve worn the most by far over the last year is a chronograph that flies in the face of everything I tend to think about my own watch preferences. And if you were to ask me, “Hey Zach, out of all of your watches, which one has your favorite dial?” I’d have to respond with another chronograph, that has one of the most intricate and beautifully made dials I’ve had the pleasure of owning. So what’s going on here? How did such a non-chrono guy wind up with this weird chrono subcollection?  My IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceratanium has effectively become my daily wearer since picking it up last sum...

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Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 4100BA Apr 24, 2023

Highlights: The Notable and Interesting at Christie’s Dubai Online Auction

Christie’s kicks off the spring auction season with Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, a 136-lot sale taking place entirely online. Featuring a diverse selection of watches, the sale by big-ticket items like a Richard Mille RM 69 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/111P with a sapphire-set bezel. But the sale also encompasses some unusual and interesting timepieces that are worth a second look, including the Richard Mille RM 36-01 with a G-force sensor and a Grand Seiko 8-Days produced by the same workshop responsible for the better-known Credor Eichi. Some lots are uniquely reflective of the Middle East: amongst them is the Gerald Genta Octo Mosaic with a perpetual calendar in Eastern-Arabic script and a Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse gentleman’s set of a solid-gold lighter and cufflinks enamelled with the flag of Oman. A Royal Oak with the signature of Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai under 12 o’clock where the brand name typically is Watches Online: The Dubai Edit takes place online from April 24 to May 4. All the watches will be on show at the same time in the preview exhibition in the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Christies.com. Lot 1: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA “Sheikh Mohammed” One of the sale’s headline lots is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 4100BA that, from a distance, looks like an ordinary mid-sized version of the emblematic sports watch. But up close this exa...

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Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 17, 2023

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer

Why start a watch brand from the ground up if you inherently have a keen eye for defunct brands with a legitimate history and product design substance that present-day enthusiasts can easily get behind. It’s a playbook we’ve seen exercised occasionally within the past decade, but in recent years, it seems like a go-to strategy implemented by those with incredible foresight, time and time again. I hope you don’t mistake this as complaining. As much as I love seeing a brand release something completely new and refreshing, I am overjoyed by seeing bygone brands properly getting resurrected. It’s a phenomenon we’ve seen with the likes of Aquastar, Vulcain, and Wolbrook Now what do these brands have in common? Well for starters, they were all revived around the same time frame, beginning in 2019 (Wolbrook). Brand heritage, as well as name recognition seems to be another trait at their core. For Aquastar, you have their charming divers famously worn by Jacques Cousteau and his crew during countless expeditions in the 1960s. With Vulcain, how could we not think of the Cricket and its historical ties to the United States presidency. And as for Wolbrook, well, you have a brand history that has a connection to the dawn of the space race, hypersonic rocket-powered jet testing and the first man to ever step on the moon, Neil Alden Armstrong. Wolbrook’s latest release is the X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer and is a tribute to one of the watches that Armstrong wore during his stor...

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Worn & Wound
Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Apr 16, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs

And we’re back for episode 45 of A Week in Watches. The dust from Watches & Wonders has settled, but there are still plenty of new releases to cover. This week we have tough-looking Timex Q with complications to spare. Seiko 5 has continued to trim down their sizes, and we’re excited about it. Zodiac has launched their weirdest Super Sea Wolf yet, and, finally, Autodromo puts a big engine in their tried-and-true Group B case with the Rallysport Chronographs. All in all, a pretty solid week. Before you go, please do give us a like and subscribe over on our YouTube channel. It really helps us out! This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Wednesday, April 19th at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop, including Buy-it-Now Bundles featuring watches such as the Citizen Super Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic and the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn And Wound Edition bundled with accessories from ADPT and Worn & Wound. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 45: From Smaller Seiko 5s to Psychedelic Zodiacs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver Time+Tide
Montblanc goes overboard Apr 15, 2023

Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver

Montblanc adds a cool new grey dial variant to their chilled-out Iced Sea dive watch The unique dial texture is inspired by the Mer de Glace glacier of the Mont-Blanc massif range in the Alps Not merely a pretty face, the Iced Sea boasts ISO 6425 dive watch specs There are an ocean of dive … ContinuedThe post Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2023

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents

As watch collectors get more and more access to information through either the internet or brand transparency, the glowing sheen that once accompanied the term “in-house” has started to lose its shine. There are plenty of loopholes a company can go through to earn the in-house title, and because it’s not a protected term like … ContinuedThe post Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review WatchAdvice
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands Apr 11, 2023

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Hands on Review

Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...

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Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition Time+Tide
Apr 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition

As you all know very well, it was all about Watches & Wonders last week. The team, both live on the ground and back at HQ, were working round the clock to bring you all the latest and greatest from the fair. It was an experience that was incredibly exhausting, but also incredibly rewarding.   … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

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Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement Time+Tide
Chopard s Alpine Eagle Cadence Apr 6, 2023

Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement

The casual proposition in Chopard’s catalogue sports a high-beat 8 Hz movement Furthering the sporty characteristics, the Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is cased in grade 5 titanium The 01.12-C in-house calibre retains its place from the 2019 limited edition 8HF in this regular-production release Although the Alpine Eagle collection is home to bold, sporty … ContinuedThe post Chopard’s Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is powered by a high-revving movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication Time+Tide
Bulgari s Precious Apr 3, 2023

Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication

Bulgari flexes their haute horlogerie muscles with four high-end tourbillon-equipped pieces The Precious Naturalia and Precious Tourbillon Lumière show off natural gemstone beauty in rose gold cases Combining titanium and sapphire, the Striking Tourbillon Sapphire and Striking Papillon Tourbillon go for a futuristic look Cementing themselves as an unquestionable champion of fashion-brand-turned-high-end-watchmakers, Bulgari has been … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The Highlife Worldtimer and Classics Tourbillon Manufacture by Frederique Constant Revolution
Frederique Constant Niels Eggerding Managing Director Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: The Highlife Worldtimer and Classics Tourbillon Manufacture by Frederique Constant

Niels Eggerding. Managing Director at Frederique Constant, shares with Revolution Founder Wei Koh the novelties that his brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. These include the 41mm Highlife Worldtimer in 18k rose gold or steel, powered by the automatic FC-718 Manufacture with 38-hour power reserve and limited to 35 pieces for the gold model; […]

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