544 articles · 244 videos found · page 21 of 27
Quill & Pad
The Cohiba Maduro 5 consists of three cigars – all using maduro leaf as wrapper, which gives the cigars a much darker, almost chocolaty appearance. These are upper leaves that have been through fermentation but have seen five years' worth of aging, more than twice the norm. And that's only part of why Ken Gargett thinks these Cuban cigars are so special.
SJX Watches
With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation. Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions. The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client. Wilhelm Schmid, working from home The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about. Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1. We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standal...
Time+Tide
Gems, dazzle, diamonds and pizzazz. This year we have seen a delectable tableau of precious stones within, around, and pavèd on some of the flashiest new watches shown at Watches & Wonders. And while the entire Phygital viewing experience does leave a lot to be desired, the top maisons have managed to convey the blend … ContinuedThe post Ice, ice baby: The best gem set watches from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: King Nerd is someone you’re likely to have seen pop up on Time+Tide over the years. Most recently, he was part of our “11 Days of Londoners” series. But since then, he has been prolific to say the least with collaborations spanning George Bamford and Franck Muller, to Dr Martens and even Jaguar. … ContinuedThe post King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Popular globally but especially in Commonwealth countries, cricket is the biggest sport in India, which accounts for over 90% of the one billion cricket fans globally according to the sport’s governing body. During the 2019 Cricket World Cup, the India-Pakistan match was seen by by 545 million people in India alone. So if there was ever an appropriate sport for an Indian watchmaker, it certainly is cricket. Bangalore Watch Company (BWC) does exactly that with the Cover Drive, a wristwatch with a cricket score-counting bezel. Initial thoughts Sport-themed watches are common, but a cricket watch is definitely a first. While I’m not a fan of the game, I can see how the Cover Drive would appeal to cricket enthusiasts. For one, the watch is catered to cricket in terms of function, with a bezel that’s graduated to “track elapsed overs in a 50-overs or T20 cricket match” according to the BWC. And its aesthetics are also gently inspired by the game. The hour indices, for instance, are modelled on a stump, the wooden pole used in cricket that make up a wicket. And the triple marker at 12 o’clock resembles a wicket, which made up of three stumps and protected by the batsman. However, all of that also means the Cover Drive – itself is named after a particular shot in cricket – is very much a niche product, albeit one with a billion-strong audience. While the cricket references will only resonate with fans of the sport, the Cover Drive is designed well. It’s legi...
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SJX Watches
A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...
Time+Tide
When you think of art in watchmaking, your mind probably turns to the painstaking creation of a cloisonné enamel dial for a Patek Philippe World Time, or the engraving of an A.Lange & Söhne balance cock. But art in watchmaking suddenly got a whole lot more accessible thanks to the Swatch x MoMA collection that … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...
Time+Tide
How many watches have you seen in the metal this year? My personal tally would surely be an all-time low. The COVID pandemic cancelled watch fairs while product viewings turned into digital affairs where white-gloved reps waved their timepieces at you over live video streams. There’s no real substitute for any of this, of course. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: ‘11 Days of Londoners’ continues with a UK-based microbrand you likely know and love, none other than Farer Watches co-founder Stu Finlayson. The past 10 years has seen a host of brilliant British brands pop up and Farer is certainly one of the most exciting. The spirit of adventure and exploring is at … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 5 – Stu Finlayson, Founder of Farer Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Taking place over two days – Friday, November 6 and Saturday, November 7 – The Geneva Watch Auction: XII at Phillips is the first sale of the fall auction season. A compact sale of under 180 lots, the auction comprises a diverse line up, ranging from the obviously notable – like a Cartier Crash in platinum and a unique Patek Philippe ref. 5020P – to the obscure but extremely interesting, like the postwar A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch made after the company had been nationalised by the Soviets, as well as a vintage Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar with a paradoxical brand-new but factory-original case. Here’s a look at handful of standouts from the sale. You’ll find the full catalogue, as well as online bidding, right here. Lot 31 – Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235G Unlike many of the other watches in the auction, the ref. 5235G is neither rare nor complicated, or even especially valuable. But it is an under-appreciated gem in Patek Philippe’s line up. Lightly designed and full of unusual details – ranging from the brushed dial finish to the engraved logo at three – the ref. 5235 also boasts a distinctively-designed movement unique to this reference and found in no other model. This example of the ref. 5235 is in white gold, which was discontinued last year and replaced by the same in rose gold with a black dial. While the new version is far more striking, the almost monochromatic white gold version is deeply appealing in its simplici...
SJX Watches
A watch brand founded by in San Francisco by a young mechanical engineer, Barrelhand’s first wristwatch is the Project 1. Inspired by Urwerk, the hand-wound Project 1 tells the time unconventionally via jumping hours and linear minutes. And it is made up of components produced with cost-effective 3D printing, resulting in a retail price of US$30,000 – reasonably accessible as such things go. Initial thoughts I first encountered the work of Barrelhand founder Karel Bachand in 2014, when he created a replica of the Urwerk UR-202 in 3D-printed plastic. He’s spent the intervening years developing his own wristwatch, and the result is impressive, especially in its conception and smart engineering. The time display is inventive, particularly the linear minutes that’s driven by a large rotating disc resembling a vinyl record. Though the jumping hours is more ordinary, it is driven by an extra-large Maltese cross gear instead of a conventional lever-and-star-wheel set up, making it adjustable forwards and backwards (though it will not jump as instantaneously due to how the Maltese cross gear works). And the techniques used to produce many of the parts are unusual, probably reflecting Mr Bachand mechanical engineering background. The large steel lugs, for example, are produced via binder jet 3D printing. The Project 1 doesn’t have the refinement of visually-similar Swiss watches – many of its surfaces are only modestly finished – but it costs substantially less, so ...
SJX Watches
As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you haven’t heard of James Thompson, aka Black Badger, you’ve probably seen his brightly lit work online. He’s done collaborations with independent watchmakers such as MB&F;, De Bethune, and Sarpaneva, and has more recently been working with the King of Customisation himself, George Bamford. While much of what Black Badger is known for is … ContinuedThe post LONG READ: 12 life lessons with Black Badger, and a clapback to the “juvenile” response to his TAG Heuer coffee watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Krayon made its debut in 2017 with the Everywhere, an incredibly complex wristwatch that was, in essence, a mechanical calculator for sunrise and sunset. Founded by movement constructor Rémi Maillat in 2013, Krayon has debuted the follow up to the Everywhere, the simpler, sleeker – and a lot more affordable – Anywhere. Like its bigger brother, the Anywhere displays the time of sunrise and sunset. But while the Everywhere allowed the wearer to input his location and time zone for the watch to show local sunrise and sunset times everywhere, the Anywhere displays sunrise and sunset times for a single, fixed location, albeit one that can be quite easily changed by a watchmaker. Despite while the complication has been streamlined, the movement has been upgraded in terms of finishing, which is now exceptional. The Anywhere in white gold Initial thoughts The Anywhere is surprising in person. Given the complexity of the movement, you’d expect a large watch with a fussy display. But the Anywhere is modestly sized – the thinness of the case stands out – giving it an elegant profile on the wrist. At the same time, the dial layout is simple and intuitive, making it easy to understand. And it is also easy to operate, with the calendar and time both set via the crown. And the calendar, in turn, controls the sunrise and sunset function, so the interface is straightforward. Turn it over and the movement is also surprising. While the movement in the Everywhere was a mechanica...
Quill & Pad
Here are five notable and (relatively) affordable timepieces that Nancy Olson hopes to experience firsthand soon and is pleased to highlight here for your pleasure.
Time+Tide
Casio’s G-Shock watches are already widely regarded as some of the toughest SOBs in the business, capable of taking more punishment than Tyson Fury and still coming back for more. But the Japanese watchmaker has seen fit to, aesthetically at least, step it up a notch, by taking some of their most iconic timepieces and … ContinuedThe post Bulletproof: These G-Shock Utility Series watches show off Casio’s 21st century take on the mil-spec watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère is a stunning mosaic watch that must be seen and handled personally for the full effect. Often jewelry pieces can look stunning on the screen, however Joshua Munchow feels that this piece as a work of art is not best represented in digital pixels but perfectly suited for a real-life experience.
Time+Tide
While the Coronavirus outbreak certainly offers a number of reasons for the watch industry at large to be concerned, its effects haven’t been severely felt yet. According to recent data from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the first month of 2020 has seen strong watch sales, with a 9.4 per cent increase in … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Swiss watch exports unaffected by Coronavirus outbreak yet, according to FHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
I asked Jason, Time+Tide’s resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out. “Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?” “How many have I edited, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Followup to our Dear Santa, we received a requests for a Chillout TGIF. So here we go with camera recommendations from Panasonic, Sony and Fujifilm.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Paris earlier in the year, the Clash de Cartier pop-up studio is making its first stop in Southeast Asia. Soon to open at the STPI Creative Workshop & Gallery in Singapore, the studio uses displays focused on music, art and literature to showcase the Clash de Cartier jewellery collection. The exhibition is structured around the concept of the Clash de Cartier, a newly launched range of jewellery characterised by contradictions and duality – bold yet delicate, structured yet – for a slightly punk-style look. The journey begins with a questionnaire that will direct visitors to their first room – either the Record Room or Bookstore. In the Record Room, visitors will be invited to listen to a playlist, curated by French sound designer Michel Gaubert, through sound shower speakers installed in the room. The playlist will consist of clashing genres of music from classical to rock. In the same vein, the Bookstore was curated to showcase opposing genres. Visitors will be able to take a short personality test to determine their “alter ego”m which will be then be translated into a haiku by actual poets at the venue. Lastly, guests can convene at the café and enjoy a complimentary pastry and drink inspired by the mix of eastern and western cultures in Singapore. Half of the café will be furnished with local décor, while the other half will be fitted out with contemporary European furniture. Exhibition details Dates: November 15-17, 2019 Time: 11...
Revolution
As as watch complications go, equation of time is as exotic as it gets; but it’s about the very sun on which all life relies, no reason for estrangement.
SJX Watches
I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...
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