Hodinkee
In-Depth: Everything You Need To Know About The Early Chopard L.U.C Collection
How Chopard's first in-house caliber 1.96 set the stage for 25 years of top-tier watchmaking.
Results for Caliber 1499
995 articles · 91 videos found · page 21 of 37
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: Omega Sets A New Standard Of Accuracy With The Speedmaster Super Racing (Live Pics & Pricing)
The caliber 9920 isn't just accurate, it arrives with a new method of regulation.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch
Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu
The Longines Ultra-Chron takes its most direct inspiration from a dive watch the brand introduced in 1968, but it also represents the culmination of Longines’ expertise in making high-frequency watch movements, which goes back more than 100 years. Longines’ century-plus quest for high-frequency timekeeping precision started in 1914, when it produced the first hand-held stopwatches (like the one below) with movements that measured time to 1/10 second thanks to their high-frequency movement, Caliber 19.73N, whose balance wheel oscillated at 36,600 vph. It continued with a modification of that caliber to achieve an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph, and a stopwatch accuracy of 1/100 second, in 1916; hit a new milestone with the launch of the Observatory Chronometer in 1959, the first wristwatch with a 36,600-vph movement; and culminated with the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Diver (below) in 1968, which became the world’s first high-frequency divers’ watch, housing the 36,600-vph Caliber 431. (Yes, this predates by one year the most famous high-frequency movement, the Zenith El Primero, though that movement also incorporated automatic winding and a chronograph.) The Ultra-Chron Diver provides the template for the all-new Ultra-Chron model, whose cushion-shaped stainless steel case spans a contemporary 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick as well as a 300-meter water resistance - an improvement on the vintage model’s 200-meter rating. Like its predecessor, and in th...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With John Goldberger, Part 2
The legendary collector and scholar returns with a dozen vintage watches of the highest caliber – and you'll probably never see anything like this again.
Revolution
Up Close with Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller 30th Anniversary ‘Tribute’ Double-sided Chronograph
Our very first collaboration with Franck Muller is a revival of three iconic 1990s chronographs; the brainchildren of one of the greatest creative minds to have ever worked in the watch industry. This double-sided chronograph is powered by the historically significant, Valjoux-based Caliber 7000, one of Franck’s most highly lauded creations. It features a second […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko Releases Its Best Spring Drive Diver Yet (Live Pics & Pricing)
Caliber 9RA5, high-intensity titanium, and the all-important textured "Black Stream" dial.
Revolution
Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet presents a new tale of imaginative watchmaking in its latest launch, the Astronef that is powered by the caliber LM105 that drove its iconic Space Revolution watch.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces New Infinite And Tellurium Models Of Iconic Atmos Perpetual Clock For 2022
As with the best of traditions, Jaeger-LeCoultre perpetuates the iconic Atmos regardless of consideration for trends. And in 2022, JLC introduces two new models, the Atmos Infinite and the most complicated Atmos to date, the Atmos Hybris Mechanica Caliber 590 (Tellurium).
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2022 Novelties
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings a broad range of novelties to Watches & Wonders 2022, including the Polaris Perpetual Calendar and Master Grande Tradition Caliber 948.
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary
Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar
A mid-tier complication, with a high caliber feel.
Quill & Pad
The Chopard L.U.C Collection Upon Turning 25: Here Are A Few Highlights
Twenty-five years – a quarter of a century – is a long time. But it’s not that long for a watch manufacturer. In 1996, Chopard's co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele proudly introduced Caliber 1.96 to the world, his brand's very first in-house movement. Here Martin Green highlights a few of his favorites from the 25-year-old L.U.C collection.
Revolution
The Modern Dress Code
The Nomos Tangente neomatik 39 platinum gray is a refined dress watch with an extra slim profile thanks to the in-house manufacture caliber DUW 3001 movement.
Deployant
Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is possibly the grail watch for many stainless steel sports watch collectors. In terms of execution, nothing has changed, and if any, it has only gotten better. The new in-house movement is potentially a significant improvement for stability, performance and accuracy. That said, the discontinuation of the older 15202ST with the caliber 2121 has only made the older model much more collectible. The watch retails at USD$33,200, but is hard if not impossible to find at MSRP.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch”
When the original Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch” was first unveiled, I was overjoyed that their 9SA5 hi-beat caliber had made its way into the standard production caliber. It is a personal goal of mine to own a watch powered by this movement, which represents the pinnacle of their mechanical movement technology. But, as I … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Citizen Combines Japanese Paper Dials and Cutting-Edge Quartz
Long available only to the Japanese domestic market, Citizen’s top-of-the-line quartz watches have been slowly making their way into foreign countries in recent years (although last year’s high-end mechanical Caliber 0200 was launched internationally). The latest high-end quartz model, however, is being launched globally. The Citizen Iconic Nature Collection is a quartet of lightweight titanium watches featuring dials made of traditional, translucent Japanese paper dyed in vivid, natural colours. But the mechanics are cutting edge in contrast – a solar-powered quartz movement accurate to within five seconds a year. Initial thoughts Citizen’s ultra-accurate quartz watches are largely unknown outside of Japan, but that is gradually changing with the global rollout of new models, which are crucially dressed in eye-catching colours instead of the muted dials historically found on these watches. Citizen has used washi for dials on The Citizen before, but usually in a low-key white. The new Iconic Nature quartet calls to mind high-end quartz watches from Citizen’s Japanese rival, though Citizen’s offering edges ahead, at least on paper. The solar-powered A060 inside the Iconic Nature is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per year, while the Grand Seiko 9F movement is rated to +/- 10 seconds per year. And the practicality of the A060 is boosted by a perpetual calendar as well as an “on-demand” power reserve indicator. The price tag of US$3,500 is might seem high for an...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition
While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...
Revolution
Introducing Hublot x Arturo Fuente Ceramic Big Bang Unico
The latest collaboration between Hublot and Arturo Fuente cigar company pays tribute to Carlos A. Fuente with a Big Bang Ceramic limited edition fitted with Unico manufacture caliber.
Deployant
New: Greubel Forsey Balancier S2
Greubel Forsey adds the new Balancier S2, to their lineup, featuring a more contemporary aesthetic with a new case, new finishing but with the same caliber.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
Now updated with the in-house 3285 caliber.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
Revolution
Introducing Gucci’s 100th Anniversary High Watchmaking Collection
Gucci celebrates their 100th anniversary by introducing four high caliber timepiece collections with a staggering 33 new models.
Hodinkee
This Lucky Man Buys Thousands of Watches For a Living
An interview with Crown & Caliber's Mark Hackman.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m
Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Mysterious Unsigned Chronograph Minute Repeater Is Coming Up At Phillips
Tucked behind a common chronograph caliber, you'll find something very special.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Grand Seiko's Kiyotaka Sakai Breaks Down The New 'Tree Rings' LE – And The New Series 9 Design (Live Pics & Pricing)
The fourth timepiece to house the new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5 is also a pretty-in-platinum showcase for the new Series 9 design.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Is Getting Into Pre-Owned Watches. What Does That Mean for You?
It's an honor to welcome the entire Crown & Caliber family into our community.
Deployant
De Bethune invites you to travel with their new travel watch: the DB25GMT Starry Varius
De Bethune releases its 29th in-house caliber with a combination of traditional watchmaking with state of the art technology. The new DB25GMT Starry Varius.