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Carrera TAG Heuer

Jack Heuer's 1963 Carrera. The template for every modern motorsport chronograph.

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The Heuer Carrera (1963) TAG Heuer

Jack Heuer\'s 1963 motorsport chronograph named after the Carrera Panamericana road race. Reference 2447, Valjoux 72 manual.

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Sep 28, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920

Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...

85 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise It Sep 6, 2020

85 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Reprise

It perhaps seems like overkill to “celebrate” an anniversary like 85 years, but when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso, it somehow becomes appropriate. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, we took a brief look back over the 85 years of this truly authentic timepiece, an original in the world of watches, from 1931 until 2016.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2020

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch”

At 3am, the world can seem like a bleak place. Staring at the bedroom ceiling unable to sleep, I find myself wrestling with a familiar stampede of anxieties. All the usual suspects are present and correct: the financial headaches, the career regrets, the mounting horror that my “double crown” is, in fact, a nascent bald … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Sex, booze and life insurance with the Tikker “death watch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years SJX Watches
Longines CEO Walter von Känel Jun 18, 2020

Business News: Longines CEO Walter von Känel Retires After 51 Years

After an epic career, industry legend Walter von Känel has just retired as chief executive of Longines, a post he held since 1988. Now 79 years old, Mr von Känel joined Longines in 1969, just as the watch industry was on the cusp of the Quartz Crisis, and stayed for 51 years. Under his leadership Longines has become the world’s fourth largest watchmaker by revenue, with 2019 sales of about 1.65 billion Swiss francs – from an output of about 2.1 million watches – according to Morgan Stanley estimates. Despite Longines’ vast size, Mr von Känel retained an almost unbelievable grasp of the brand’s history and products, something he demonstrated during a 2016 interview where he could describe the calibre inside the Lindbergh remake of 1987. For all his success, Mr von Känel remained steadfastly dedicated to the brand, keeping a relatively low profile despite being in a business filled with large personalities. When I asked in the 2016 interview if Longines would be doing anything to mark his 50 years at the company, he response was simple: “I am against the cult of personality. We sell Longines watches, we don’t sell von Kanel watches.” On his retirement, Mr von Känel was named Honorary Chairman of Longines, while keeping his appointment as Chairman of the Longines Foundation. The new chief executive of Longines is Matthias Breschan, who was most recently chief executive of Rado. Mr Breschan, in turn, will be succeeded at Rado by Adrian Bosshard, who wa...

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jun 8, 2020

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton

Born in Holland but now based in Geneva, Kees Engelbarts is one of the most prominent and established engravers in Swiss watchmaking. He moved to Geneva in 1994, and began a career as an independent engraving not long after. Amongst the brands he has worked for are major names like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot, but also independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbarts also makes watches under his own name, focusing on elaborately engraved or open-worked movements. His latest creation is the Argentium Tourbillon, an incredibly airy yet organic tourbillon that’s been skeletonised entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Mr Engelbarts is one of the oldest names in movement skeletonisation, so whether or not you like the aesthetic, the work is always excellent. His engraved creations are mostly figurative, often depicting a mythological creature, while his skeletonisation is usually organic and extremely striking. Though the look of the Argentium Tourbillon is too alien for me, the work is impressive. The bridges are refined and organic, and looking almost soft, but they are metal. Going from a full bridge made of German silver to an extraterrestrial life form is tedious work made up of cutting and filing. The craft is both delicate and physical, and similar to the craft of a high-end jeweller. A reductive process The Argentium Tourbillon starts with a CH016 movement made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a movement specialist in Neuchatel that specialise...

Michael Jordan And Scottie Pippen Wearing Roger Dubuis Watches In ESPN’s ‘The Last Dance’ Mini-Docuseries Quill & Pad
Roger Dubuis Watches May 1, 2020

Michael Jordan And Scottie Pippen Wearing Roger Dubuis Watches In ESPN’s ‘The Last Dance’ Mini-Docuseries

Elizabeth Doerr is currently enjoying watching 'The Last Dance' miniseries about Michael Jordan's career, and even more so thanks to glimpses of the great watches she keeps spying as the series progresses. She's only two episodes in at present, but what grabbed her right from the first minutes was the fact that both Jordan and Bulls forward Scottie Pippen are wearing large, noticeable watches by Roger Dubuis. Find out which ones here.

Pandemic Truths – Jean-Claude Biver SJX Watches
Apr 21, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Jean-Claude Biver

Who better than Jean-Claude Biver to reflect on the current crisis? He is an emblematic figure in watchmaking, with a career that’s spanned half a century, one that started in another, long-ago crisis caused by quartz watches. Always passionate and frank, Jean-Claude played a major role in the rise of mechanical watchmaking, contributing a large part to the boom of the 1990s. Working from his chalet in the ski town of Crans-Montana in Switzerland, Jean-Claude spoke to me over the phone. Here is our conversation. Jean-Claude’s selfie from his study This crisis sheds light on the weaknesses of our current economic systems. How has it impacted your business? Obviously it impacts us like everyone else, because no matter how good your sales team is, or how many stores you have, or how well situated they are – if there is nobody out there, it hurts your business. But we have developed a few ideas to keep business going. We are always trying to implement strategies to combat the situation. And all crisis create opportunities as well. When China was closed, we organised limousine services to bring one customer at a time to our boutiques that were open just for them. It created a sense of security, ease and comfort, so we actually managed to do some business, even during that time. This is going to be a long [crisis]. By the time it gets back to normal, we will have to be ready. Now is the time to bring in innovation again, in distribution and equally, in sales. How do you e...

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited Time+Tide
Rado Ashleigh Barty party Jan 30, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited

World women’s number one tennis player Ash Barty has collaborated with Rado to release a watch this year, bringing us the Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition, a white-hot polished ceramic watch that matches perfectly with the uniform of Wimbledon, which was her first junior Grand Slam win – ahead of her career-defining Grand Slam … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 16: It’s a Rado Ashleigh Barty party and you’re invited appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: ‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ By Jean-Pierre Grosz Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ Dec 10, 2019

Book Review: ‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ By Jean-Pierre Grosz

‘F.P. Journe Invenit et Fecit’ by Jean-Pierre Grosz narrates the story of François-Paul Journe, one of the most successful independent watchmakers of our time. This book outlines both Journe’s incredible and – dare I say – courageous career and delves into his personal life, which wasn’t always rosy and light. A very atypical career that deserves the attention it receives with this book, Elizabeth finds it is a must-read.

Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet SE Asia Audemars Piguet Dec 7, 2019

Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia

Audemars Piguet (AP) recently named Stefanie Ng to lead its operations in Southeast Asia, India and Australia. She succeeds Jonathan King, who departed the brand in April 2019. Having started her career at Swatch Group, Ms Ng joined AP in 2012 as marketing manager for the region, where she helped execute projects like the Royal Oak 40th anniversary exhibition and a giant floral clock at Gardens by the Bay. The past two years have been formative for the brand, both in Asia and the wider world, as it has steadily trimmed its third-party distribution while growing sales within its own stores, making the marketing efforts of Ms Ng and her team vital, particularly with the launch of the all-new Code 11.59 collection earlier this year. As chief executive, Ms Ng will work alongside two board members of AP, which is unusual amongst Swiss watchmakers in having shareholders resident in Singapore: Oliviero Bottinelli, whose family inherited its stake from former AP chief executive Georges Golay (1921-1987), and Sunil Amarasuriya, who was once the distributor for AP in the region and acquired a minority stake in 1990. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 tourbillon made for Only Watch, which sold for a record 1m Swiss francs at the charity auction in November Though the watch industry in the region, like that back home in Switzerland, is dominated by men, it’s noteworthy that two of the most important brands – coincidentally both family owned – are now run by women. The Patek Philipp...

Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2019

Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite

Vault, a Swiss watch brand founded in 2013 by Mark Schwarz, has just unveiled the V2+ Red CC, a unique, left-handed variant of its unusual approach to time-telling. Inspired by a bank vault’s time lock mechanism – Mr Schwarz was both a police officer and banker earlier in his career – the brand’s watches feature a time display based on a planetary gear system, where each hour marker is actually a functioning planetary gear that travels around the dial. All of that ingenious mechanics is courtesy of UhrTeil, the complication and manufacturing outfit led by Andreas Strehler. Novel case material The new V2+ Red CC differs from earlier models with its left-handed crown and novel case material. The case is made of carbon-ceramic composite, which gives it the properties of both its constituent materials – the lightness and strength of carbon as well as the hardness of ceramic. Basically, ceramic is layered in between sheets of carbon, which is then submerged polymer and baked an autoclave to create the block of composite material. As a result, it retains the distinctive striped pattern of carbon composite. The tonneau-shaped case has a complex, multi-faceted design made up of five parts and is curved on two axis, allowing it to sit well on the wrist. It measures 39mm by 46.7mm and 15mm in height, which is thick but a necessity. That’s because the movement is essentially an automatic base calibre with a planetary display module on top. And as in the realm of such e...

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet where he started his Nov 5, 2019

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva

Now the non-executive chairman of the watch division at LVMH, Jean-Claude Biver has enjoyed a remarkable career in the watch industry that has spanned some 45 years. That success has enabled him to build a timepiece collection that is both magnificent and diverse, ranging from vintage Patek Philippe to modern independent watchmaking. Now the entire collection will be on display for the first time at Phillips in Geneva, after which it will embark on a world tour. Bookends of Mr Biver’s career so far: a Royal Oak ref. 5402 ST by Audemars Piguet, where he started his career And a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Titled Jean-Claude Biver: A Retrospective. Share, Respect, Forgive, the exhibition includes two dozen watches – including some lovely Patek Philippe pocket watches – that are amongst the best examples of 20th century watchmaking. Notably, the collection also includes several watches by prominent independent watchmakers, many of which were relatively recent purchases. They include a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in rose gold – the exact watch we featured several weeks ago in fact – and a fresh-off-the-press Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain in platinum. According to an inside source, Mr Biver’s late-in-life interest in independent watchmaking, and also the Rolex Daytona “Zenith”, is the result of counsel from his son, Pierre, who is a specialist at Phillips’ London office, showing that the love of watches can be hereditary. A Patek Philippe Ref. 15...

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 18, 2019

Inside the Jean-Pierre Hagmann-Akrivia Case Workshop

A master case maker who retired in 2017, Jean-Pierre Hagmann is back in action, as a partner in Akrivia’s case-making workshop in Geneva. Now 78 years old, Mr Hagmann struck out on his own in 1984, starting a stellar career that would see him become a case maker for most of Switzerland’s best watchmakers. (For a detailed profile of Mr Hagmann, see my 2016 story.) His client list included establishment names like Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and of course, Patek Philippe, where he produced highly-regarded cases for its minute repeaters. In fact, Mr Hagmann was also responsible for the impressively complex case of the Star Calibre 2000, the uber-pocket watch Patek Philippe introduced to mark the new millennium. Mr Hagmann at work in the 1980s The Patek Philippe ref. 5029 minute repeater, which had a Hagmann case In the first half of his career, Mr Hagmann also worked with many of the up-and-coming stars of independent watchmaking of the 1980s and 1990s, including Franck Muller and Roger Dubuis. He produced the very first Cintree Curvex cases for Franck Muller, as well as the early cases for Roger Dubuis. Another of Mr Hagmann’s cases: the Franck Muller Cintree Curvex minute repeater with perpetual calendar, circa 1991 Three decades later, Mr Hagmann is back where he began. He’s joined forces with a rising star of independent watchmaking, Akrivia, whose founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, is just 32 years old. Though young, Rexhep grasps the impo...

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd Time+Tide
Urwerk Sep 6, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd

Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world’s radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny’s career in engraving didn’t start with watches - he went through the far more traditional route … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Chatting to engraving royalty with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so Time+Tide
Cartier products Aug 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so

Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time
 Time+Tide
Rolex May 2, 2019

5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time


Congratulations. You’ve decided to join one of the premier families in the watchmaking universe. That first decision to buy Rolex is seen by many as a rite of passage all watch lovers should experience at some point during their collecting career, and it’s one we support wholeheartedly. Since the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking began in the … ContinuedThe post 5 things you need to know before you buy Rolex for the first time
 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Bulgari bring back a legend with the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Time+Tide
Bulgari bring back Jan 30, 2019

INTRODUCING: Bulgari bring back a legend with the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Few names loom larger in the collective consciousness of horological history than Gérald Genta. He’s one of the few individual designers whose name - because of the strength of his work - stands as tall as the great houses for whom he worked. But later in his career, Genta launched his own eponymous brand which … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bulgari bring back a legend with the Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best Law Enforcement Watches Part #3: First Line Supervisor Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 5, 2018

Best Law Enforcement Watches Part #3: First Line Supervisor

Well, at this point in a career you are beginning to think about promotion and gravitating towards the managing and leading people role, as opposed to focusing on yourself for the most part. It's a lot like having children, except without the cuddling and bedtime stories. So, why not take this time, focus on yourself for just a little bit, and be selfish about what goes on your wrist.

LIST: Auction madness –  6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2018

LIST: Auction madness – 6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k

Famed comedian, actor and director Jerry Lewis, AKA the King of Comedy, died in August 2017 at the age of 91. He left behind the legacy of an incredible career that spanned over 60 years. Known for his slapstick humour, Lewis rose to fame in the ’40s and ’50s as one-half of comedy duo Martin … ContinuedThe post LIST: Auction madness – 6 watches you could have bought at the Jerry Lewis estate sale for less than $10k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum P.I.’ Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex All that’s left May 30, 2018

RECOMMENDED READING: Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum P.I.’ Rolex

All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it’s clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it’s a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum P.I.’ Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.