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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Hands On: Tudor Pelagos Ultra SJX Watches
Tudor Pelagos Ultra Tudor has May 12, 2025

Hands On: Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Tudor has been busy expanding the Pelagos collection in recent years, focusing primarily on military and racing associations. But until now, none exceeded the 500 m depth rating of the debut model from 2012. Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2025, the Pelagos Ultra (ref. 2543C1A7NU) can dive to double that depth, making it the deepest diving watch in Tudor’s current collection. The Ultra is differentiated primarily by its headline 1,000 m depth rating and teal accents, and is otherwise a familiar mix of elements from the Pelagos range including the lumed ceramic bezel, a fully brushed grade 2 titanium case and bracelet, and legible snowflake hands. Initial thoughts I personally enjoy overbuilt dive watches, despite the fact that I don’t dive. Practicality aside, there’s just something fun and reassuring about wearing what feels like a vault on the wrist. And that’s what the Ultra feels like – it’s tangibly overbuilt but still wearable thanks to its titanium construction. The biggest, baddest Pelagos yet, the Ultra measures 43 mm and 14.5 mm thick. But it doesn’t look overly large thanks to its 22 mm lug width, which gives it the visual proportions of something a little smaller. That said, the sizing may be too much for some, who would likely find a better fit with the standard Pelagos or Pelagos 39. The dial design is similar to that of the Pelagos 39, with applied polymer-ceramic lume plots. But the Ultra is a little more extreme, with beefier hands and ma...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G May 8, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Apr 24, 2025

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators

In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and  produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side.  Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators.  They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...

Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Introduces Apr 23, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco

Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 9, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases

Watches & Wonders 2025 has come and gone and there was no shortage of unexpected releases and divided opinions. The editorial team here at Teddy was on the ground covering all the new launches, and afterward we asked them to name their favorite release from the show. It’s not an easy task, but we are going to have a few more of these post-show Editors’ Picks articles in the coming days that will expound a bit more on what we thought. For now, let’s get to our overall favorite picks from Watches & Wonders 2025. Danny Milton: Rolex Land-Dweller I won't belabor the point here, considering I penned about 2,000 words on this watch at launch, and helped produce our hands-on coverage at embargo. The Land-Dweller is seriously big news, and in all candor, is the watch of the show, full stop. It plays on nostalgia via its callback to the design language of integrated sports watches from Rolex in the 1970s. It introduces an entirely new design template in the modern Rolex context via a new case; a new, flat Jubilee bracelet; patented stick markers; new open applied numerals; new hands; a new counterweight on the seconds hand; and a new honeycomb dial, not to mention a new fluted bezel design. But the real star of the show is a silicon escapement made from the ground up. Dynapulse is perhaps Rolex's greatest innovation and results in a new 5Hz beat rate while maintaining accuracy, shock resistance and antimagnetic properties. But above all else, the watch honestly looks and wear...

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]

Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 4, 2025

Rolex Introduces the Oyster Perpetual in Matte Pastel Colours

Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Apr 2, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575

Complicated watches are not the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Panerai. Having said that, the Italian-born Swiss brand has shown us over the years that it can integrate brilliant technical wizardry into its iconic models. Two great examples are the current Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT in Goldtech and Platinumtech. Both seem […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Refreshes the Carrera Day-Date and Adds a GMT Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Refreshes Apr 1, 2025

TAG Heuer Refreshes the Carrera Day-Date and Adds a GMT

Reinventing the wheel can be overrated-sometimes, expanding on an already-beloved design is the best way to drum up excitement. The original Heuer Carrera-released in 1963 as Jack Heuer’s horological love letter to the 1950s Carrera Panamericana Road Race held in Mexico-would develop as a symbol of motorsports success over the following decades, frequently gifted to victorious drivers at huge events. As the current official timekeeper of Formula 1, the Swiss company is continuing that legacy of motorsports prowess with new watches in the Carrera Day-Date collection, keeping the elements that have made the watch an icon, while pushing the design ever forward.  With six new models and ample features, the Day-Date collection can seem as daunting as an F1 circuit at first. Five of the models, though, are mechanically identical, with differences ranging from materials to color schemes-these are the “regular” Day-Date pieces, while the Date Twin-Time represents a distinct complication. First, let’s take a look at the new Day-Date references.  Each Day-Date features a fine-brushed and polished steel 41mm case with a steel polished crown at 3 o’clock, a beveled and domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and a steel screw-down case back that touts a 100m water resistance. A Calibre TH31-02 automatic movement pulses inside each Day-Date, and a day-date window sits at the 3:00 position. White Super-LumiNova additionally coats the hour and mi...

First Look – TAG Heuer Refreshes its Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Twin-Time Models Monochrome
TAG Heuer Refreshes Apr 1, 2025

First Look – TAG Heuer Refreshes its Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Twin-Time Models

Jack Heuer’s Carrera chronograph is the stuff of legends. Released in 1963 and named after the dangerous Carrera Panamericana, the Carrera is still TAG Heuer’s flagship model. The current Carrera collection has eight sub-families, including the recently introduced Date family, home to the Day-Date and Twin-Time models. Released just four years ago, the Day-Date and […]

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner It features Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual

Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...

First Look – The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Apr 1, 2025

First Look – The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic (Incl. Video)

IWC staged the much-anticipated return of its Ingenieur in 2023, an iconic reference designed by the late Gérald Genta. Recovering genetic traits of Genta’s famous 1976 Ingenieur SL Jumbo reference 1832, the current collection was rekindled with a handsome, fully integrated 40mm Automatic in steel and titanium. The latest Ingenieur Automatic is slightly larger and […]

Introducing: The New 18K Gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona With A Turquoise Lacquer Dial Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The New 18K Gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona With A Turquoise Lacquer Dial

It’s been two years since Rolex introduced its current Cosmograph Daytona. With an updated design and a new movement, the new Daytona was the biggest highlight in a string of great releases from the Genevan brand in 2023. For 2025, Rolex expands the Daytona collection with a surprising new 18K yellow gold version. Whereas the […] Visit Introducing: The New 18K Gold Rolex Cosmograph Daytona With A Turquoise Lacquer Dial to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos Fratello
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos It Mar 21, 2025

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos

It has been a while since we reviewed a Hamilton Intra-Matic, let alone a series of them. The brand’s classic chronograph is one of my favorite watches in its current catalog. The panda-dial version of the Intra-Matic Auto holds a special place in my heart. I wore that quite a bit before I wrote the […] Visit Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos to read the full article.