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Only Watch 2019 Post-Auction Thoughts: Smashing Records For A Great Cause Plus The $31 Million Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab On Video Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab Nov 11, 2019

Only Watch 2019 Post-Auction Thoughts: Smashing Records For A Great Cause Plus The $31 Million Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime’s Record Grab On Video

The buzz around Geneva over the entire week was nothing if not intense: Only Watch 2019 was about to set some records, and people wanted to witness it. Elizabeth Doerr shares the palpable excitement plus a video of the moment Patek Philippe set its $31 million record and more here.

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias Nov 11, 2019

Auction Report: What Went Down at Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is the biggest watch auction ever – and it was the most exciting sale in a notably quiet Geneva auction season – with 50 lots selling for 38.59m Swiss francs. The last Only Watch auction in 2017 raised a mere 9.29m francs in comparison. And of course 31m francs of that came from just one watch, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel, which went to a determined buyer from Asia bidding via telephone with Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Presided over by Christie’s jewellery department head Rahul Kadakia, the best watch auctioneer who is not a watch specialist, the saleroom in Geneva’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues was jam-packed, so full even Audemars Piguet chief executive Francois-Henri Bennahmias had to stand. And there was even a famous face in attendance, or at least in the same building – former Thai prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who is a a known watch collector, was spotted in the lobby of the hotel. Luc Pettavino, who founded only watch after his late son was stricken by Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the very disease that Only Watch raises funds to research a cure. Photo – Alex Teuscher Photography Though the Patek Philippe accounted for most of the sale proceeds – which all go to a medical charity – the other 49 lots in the auction still sold for an average of 155,000 Swiss francs, which is well above the average for a watch auction. The Antiquorum watch auction that took place a day later, for instance, averaged only...

Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Nov 10, 2019

Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition

Editor’s note: When it comes to making timepieces with an affiliation to the full-throttle world of motorsport, few watchmakers have more success than TAG Heuer. Take this TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition for instance. Here is a wristwatch that faithfully pays homage to the original Heuer Autavia 1163T or, as it’s more commonly … ContinuedThe post Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector’s Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sotheby’s Masterworks Of Time Part Two Is Dedicated To Treasures Of A. Lange & Söhne’s Illustrious Past Among Other Historical Delicacies (Updated With Results) Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 9, 2019

Sotheby’s Masterworks Of Time Part Two Is Dedicated To Treasures Of A. Lange & Söhne’s Illustrious Past Among Other Historical Delicacies (Updated With Results)

Part two of Sotheby's Masterworks of Time offers more than 30 impressive masterpieces from A. Lange & Söhne’s illustrious history as well as rare pocket watches by Adolf Schneider, who worked alongside Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, their master Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, and many other historical delicacies sure to have your heart beating faster!

The Most Expensive Watch Ever – Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Nov 9, 2019

The Most Expensive Watch Ever – Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A made for Only Watch 2019 has just made history by selling for 31m Swiss francs – selling to a new face at watch auctions – topping the 23m francs achieved by the Henry Graves Supercomplication and the 17m francs of Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona. Before the Grandmaster Chime sold for the record-setting sum, I wrote: A major, outsized finish of 12m or 15m francs, or even more, is possible but only likely if an unexpected, deep-pocketed bidder buys the watch, or manages to push the winner further than expected. I was way off the mark value-wise, but at least half right. The bidding opened with room bids, first a 5m franc bid from gem dealer and auction veteran Claude Sfeir, followed by 10m francs from a prominent SE Asian collector. But the action swiftly moved to phone bidders, all bidding via Christie’s representatives, including Stéphane Von Bueren of the watch department in Geneva. It was a prolonged tussle – with bidding rising in 500,000 franc increments – between Mr Von Bueren’s client and another represented by Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Once bidding hit 17m francs, there was brief applause as the watch topped the record of Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona. At 22.5m francs, a new bidder jumped in, represented by Max Fawcett of Christie’s Geneva. From there it was Mr Fawcett against Ms Jud – and another round of applause when the watch surpassed the record set by the Graves Supercompli...

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2019

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019

Well, it’s been another successful year for what many in the horological world refer to as (much to the chagrin of Time+Tide’s Nicholas Kenyon) the “Oscars of the watchmaking industry”. And, much like Hollywood’s most revered awards ceremony, there’s been more than a few upsets at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, across quite … ContinuedThe post The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Gobbi” chronograph Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part II

Here’s part II of highlights at Phillips’ Double Signed auction – you’ll find the first part here – including a lovely Audemars Piguet “Gobbi” chronograph with a green gold dial, as well as a gorgeous Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 “pink on pink” that’s more affordable than usual, for a reason. Lot 35 – Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in pink gold “Trucchi” The most valuable lot in the sale, with an estimate over 1.2m francs, is the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 third series in pink gold. It’s one of only six pink gold third series watches known; in fact, the total number of ref. 2499s in pink gold across all four series totals just 23. And this is the only one with the “Trucchi” signature on the dial, having been sold by the retailer in Naples that’s still in operation today. According to Phillips, it was sold by Trucchi to an Italian-American doctor in 1972, who then sold it to the consignor who sold the watch at auction in 1999 at Antiquorum in Geneva. It sold for almost 700,000 francs then, making it one of the most expensive watches in the world at the time. The watch is in exemplary condition, albeit with one quirk: the crystal is sapphire instead of PlexiGlas as is standard for the third series. Found only on fourth series ref. 2499s, the sapphire crystal and accompanying bezel was presumable installed by Patek Philippe in the 1980s according to Phillips, since the watch already had a sapphire crystal when it was sold in 1999. Lot 50 – Patek Phili...

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part I SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin tourbillon pocket watch ref Nov 7, 2019

Highlights: Phillips ‘Double Signed’ Geneva Auction Part I

Phillips’ thematic auction this season is titled Double Signed: A Celebration of the Finest Partnerships Between Manufacturers and Retailers, with a catalogue composed of watches with retailer signatures mostly on the dial, but occasionally on the case back. Though a retailer signature in itself does not make a great watch, many watches in the sale are already superb watches, but made even more special by the retailer’s mark, like the Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 below. More broadly, Double Signed is more historically evocative than most other thematic auctions, because many of the retailers cited within represent a particular time and place that is long gone, even if the retailer remains in business. Examples include Serpico y Laino of Caracas, which no doubt prospered during Venezuela’s good times that are now long forgotten, or Le Palais Royal of Havana that was the island’s premiere retailer before the Communist revolution. Here’s part one of the roundup of highlights from the sale. (And part II is here.) Lot 11 – Vacheron Constantin tourbillon pocket watch ref. 92244 “Asprey” One of the most proper examples of haute horlogerie in the sale is this Vacheron Constantin pocket watch that contains an observatory-certified tourbillon movement from the 1940s, though the watch was only finished and sold in 1992. It’s believed that in the 1990s, Vacheron Constantin discovered a small number of tourbillon movements that had been tested and certified as chronomet...

Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020 SJX Watches
Citizen has been relegated Nov 7, 2019

Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020

Switzerland’s biggest watch and jewellery fair will see one of its biggest exhibitors, Seiko, depart next year reports Yasuhito Shibuya of Chronos Japan. A Baselworld exhibitor since 1986, the Japanese watchmaker joins the stream of brands that have been departing the event since industry giant Swatch Group’s shock exit last year. According to Mr Shibuya, Seiko’s official reason for leaving is “because the opening time of Baselworld in 2020 is later than usual”, happening in May instead of the traditional March. Mr Shibuya also adds: “The fair happens a month later, coinciding with the Golden Week in Japan – a period with four consecutive national holidays within seven days. This is a particularly disappointing time for Japanese watchmakers.” “From the location of the booth to the floor plan of the fair [with Seiko’s booth on the second level], I do not think that Seiko has received equal treatment [as compared to Swiss brands]” noted Mr Shibuya. Despite its importance, both commercially and culturally, Seiko, along with fellow Japanese brands Casio and Citizen, has been relegated to the upper floor of the main exhibition hall since the venue’s lavish redesign in 2013. The loss of Seiko is no doubt a major blow to Baselworld, which has historically been a cash cow for exhibition organiser MCH Group, which also owns the Art Basel franchise. Instead of Baselworld, Seiko will launch its new products earlier in the year. However, according to a Seiko...

Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Editor’s note Nov 7, 2019

Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Editor’s note: With so many different opulent steel sports watches currently occupying the marketplace, it’s sometimes easy to forget that one member of the holy trinity of Swiss watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin, has been making their interpretation of a luxury sports watch for more than 20 years now - the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. It’s an impressive … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 chronograph which develops Nov 6, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze

Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...

Interview: Wilhelm Schmid of A. Lange & Söhne on the Odysseus SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 4, 2019

Interview: Wilhelm Schmid of A. Lange & Söhne on the Odysseus

Shortly before A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Datomatic, its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid was in Singapore to officially reopen its revamped boutique. But perhaps more importantly, he was available to discuss the Odysseus, which I did. In the articulate and frank manner that is his style, Mr Schmid outlined the rationale behind the Odysseus, how it came to be, and drops a few hints as to where it’s going. Read what he had to say below. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You have established Lange’s reputation for watches of high quality; quality that no one disputes. Now you’re taking the next step into a different segment. What’s the rationale behind this? We have not changed our fine watchmaking, [but we had to decide:] do we answer the question that has been raised by many customers over many years? If you do something like that, you have to be unique, you have to be different, and it has to be of some interest for the customer. We rather not provide an answer than provide the wrong answer. So it took us a long time to find the face and find the design. And then after we created the idea, [we had to create] something which will be recognisable within this sort of design, [with] the push buttons, the day-date complications. Then, how can we use that to create a family? It’s always easy to come up with one watch. It’s often more difficult if you want to have a recognisable face that can have different iterations and complications lat...

INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer Time+Tide
Farer Roché World Timer Boutique Nov 1, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer

Boutique British watchmaker Farer have just released what many in the horological community are calling their best watch to date – the Farer Roché World Timer. Hewn from 316L stainless steel, the svelte 39mm case of the Roché World Timer is a mere 11mm thick, ensuring that the timepiece offers a great amount of bandwidth … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking another look at the Breguet Classique 7147 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 7147 Editor’s note Oct 30, 2019

Taking another look at the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor’s note: There’s a lot of hype around steel sports watches these days, with seemingly every watchmaker and their proverbial dog jumping on the bandwagon. And we get it: steel sports watches are not only great looking, they tend to be a fair bit more practical and versatile than most other types of timepieces. But … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Breguet Classique 7147 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mission Accomplished! Nirmal “Nims” Purja smashes Bremont’s Project Possible Time+Tide
Bremont s Project Possible Bremont Oct 29, 2019

Mission Accomplished! Nirmal “Nims” Purja smashes Bremont’s Project Possible

Bremont brand ambassador and former British Special Forces serviceman Nirmal “Nims” Purja has destroyed the world record for scaling Earth’s 14 tallest mountains, completing the amazing feat in just six months and six days, eclipsing the previous record, which stood for more than eight years. Project Possible kicked off in April this year, and Purja … ContinuedThe post Mission Accomplished! Nirmal “Nims” Purja smashes Bremont’s Project Possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Picking The Best Sub-$10,000 Isn’t As Easy As It Seems Quill & Pad
Oct 28, 2019

Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Picking The Best Sub-$10,000 Isn’t As Easy As It Seems

Six pre-selected watches, five panelist judges, and four predicted winners. You want variety, our predictions for the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Petite Aiguille category has more variety than you can strap on two wrists. Check out the reasons for the disparate views here.

The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Oct 28, 2019

The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch

With Only Watch 2019 now just a mere 11 days away from kicking off, we thought we’d take a look at Blancpain’s Only entrant – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. The unique piece from the storied Swiss marque is, rather obviously, based on the standard Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. However, the Only Watch Barakuda sports very … ContinuedThe post The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper Time+Tide
Oct 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper

A Collected Man recently interviewed Daryn Schnipper, and if you don’t know who she is … you really should. Schnipper has been working at Sotheby’s in New York since 1980, first as a watch expert, and now as Senior Vice President of the auction house and Chairman of the International Watch Division. What’s more, Schnipper … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Track 1 By Singer Reimagined Is The World’s Most Advanced ‘Flat 6’ Chronograph: It Might Not Sound Like An Air-Cooled 911, But It Sure Laps Like One! Quill & Pad
Oct 26, 2019

Track 1 By Singer Reimagined Is The World’s Most Advanced ‘Flat 6’ Chronograph: It Might Not Sound Like An Air-Cooled 911, But It Sure Laps Like One!

It's a rare event when the stars align, rarer still when they align to create what may well become a truly iconic chronograph. In fact, the Singer Reimagined Track 1 may already be truly iconic: it certainly has both the pedigree and the style. And more importantly for a horological icon, the Track 1 looks like it's been around since the 1970s.