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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 Fratello
Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs 228239 Mar 14, 2025

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235

I have spent plenty of time around the iconic Rolex Day-Date. Those watches, however, were all vintage or, at best, neo-vintage. My time spent with the current generation is limited, to put it mildly, so I felt it was about time I tried on a pair of thoroughly modern DDs in the contemporary 40mm size. […] Visit Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 to read the full article.

Krayon’s Anyday is a Day-Date “Mechanical Planner” SJX Watches
Krayon Mar 13, 2025

Krayon’s Anyday is a Day-Date “Mechanical Planner”

Krayon continues with its focus on calendar-related complications with the Anyday. Coming after the Anywhere and Everywhere, the Anyday is not an astronomical complication, but rather a seemingly-simple watch, albeit one with a twist. The Anyday is more than just a basic calendar watch as it offers an intuitive way of visualising the days of a month. Krayon describes the Anyday as a “mechanical planner”, with its display giving a complete view of the current month’s layout in terms of dates and weekends via a colour-coded date display. Initial thoughts Since the Anyday shows the days of the week over the course of a month, the utility of the concept is clear. It allows the wearer to tell if a certain future date will be a Monday or Tuesday, for example. Design wise, the Anyday also continues with Krayon’s established aesthetic, resulting in a recognisable house style. The quality of execution also lives up to the earlier Krayon timepieces. The movement is carefully finished and bears the hallmarks now requisite in high-end independent watchmaking, while the dial is clean and conveys the Krayon aesthetic well. The weekday planning function is useful and conceptually interesting, but it is little disappointing in mechanical terms, especially in comparison to the Anywhere and Everywhere, which are true complication powerhouses. An annual calendar or another basic calendar complication would have made the proposition a little more appealing. That is not to say the Anyd...

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer In Deep Black With Turquoise Or Gray Accents Fratello
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Mar 12, 2025

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer In Deep Black With Turquoise Or Gray Accents

Omega’s Deep Black series is a sub-collection within its Seamaster Planet Ocean line. The watches all have a 45.5mm brushed black ceramic case with a 600m depth rating. Today, the brand from Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, adds two new references to the four current ones by introducing the popular worldtimer complication. You have the choice between versions […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer In Deep Black With Turquoise Or Gray Accents to read the full article.

A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Mar 11, 2025

A Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin for Shreve, Crump & Low

One of the oldest jewellers in the United States, Shreve, Crump & Low (SC&L;) has turned to Laurent Ferrier (LF) for the Classic Origin SC&L; x LF, a tasteful take on the brand’s manual-wind, time-only wristwatch. Boston-based SC&L; was founded in 1796, but the new Classic Origin adopts a restrained aesthetic in blue and bronze that’s a welcome departure from the sector dials and Breguet numerals that characterise many of LF’s recent editions. Available in either stainless steel or red gold, the SC&L; edition is LF116.01, a hand-wind calibre that’s LF’s most accessible movement but still features refined touches like a linear winding click in polished steel. Initial thoughts I like the fact that the SC&L; edition adopts LF’s signature style while avoiding overused elements like a sector layout in “salmon” or green. This instantly sets the SC&L; version apart from most other Classic Origin iterations. Furthermore, the combination of grained blue and satin gold on the dial is unusual but appealing as it gives the watch a contemporary feel that works well with LF’s low-key “Galet” style. And the discreet SC&L; logo above the seconds is an elegant touch. The SC&L; edition being a manual-wind Classic Origin is both a pro and a con. It’s an advantage because of affordability; the Classic Origin is LF’s most accessible timepiece; the steel SC&L; edition costs US$42,000. However, the calibre inside doesn’t have the same level of detail as the micro-rotor automat...

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 5, 2025

Interview: Ming Thein on the All New Project 21, a Tantalum Dress Watch with a Restored Vintage Movement

If MING Watches isn’t on your radar, I don’t really know what to tell you. The brand, which has been around since 2017 and was founded by photographer and watch enthusiast Ming Thein (his current job title at the brand, at least according to LinkedIn, is ‘Supreme Overlord’), has stood at the forefront of the small independent movement since the day it launched, and has been a tremendous object lesson in the ability and aspiration of small brands.  In the nearly eight years since the brand launched, they’ve made a lot of very cool watches, and possibly cooler than the watches themselves has been the diversity of their offering - diversity in style, functionality, and (notably) price. Now, MING has released its latest marvel, the MING 21.01 ‘Project 21,’ a dream watch for Ming himself and a clear summation of what the brand has been and done up to this point while offering a glimpse into the eponymous founder’s head and maybe even offering some clues as to what will come next for the brand. So what is the Project 21? Well, put simply, it’s a 35mm tantalum-cased dress watch built around a historically significant ultra-thin movement. Factor in a little more nuance, and it’s exceedingly clear that the Project 21 is an experiment in pushing the brand to its limits, just to see where those limits happen to be. The new watch, which will only be available in extraordinarily limited quantities, was inspired by a challenge thrown down at a 2023 collector’s d...

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition Fratello
Oak & Oscar Feb 25, 2025

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition

When two of the most likable people in the watch industry collaborate on a watch, only good things can happen, right? With collaborations, success is never a guarantee, but the new Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is an absolute winner. The only complaint is that so few will be made. Here at Fratello, […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition to read the full article.

New Shades for Nomos’ Affordable Club Campus SJX Watches
Nomos Affordable Club Campus Feb 25, 2025

New Shades for Nomos’ Affordable Club Campus

Nomos has just introduced four new references to its line of entry-level watches conceived for fresh graduates, the Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky. The new releases are set apart by the bold colours - blue or yellow - for the “California” dial combines Arabic and Roman numerals. Each is offered in the customary sizes for the line, 36 mm and 38.5 mm, and retain the no-frills closed case back with 100 m water resistance. Initial thoughts Appreciated for its value proposition watches with solid in-house movements, Nomos has recently suffered from a lack of novelty. Indeed, the new Club Campus models differ only in dial colours from their predecessors. But the watches are still have appeal, particularly the entry-level models like the Club Campus; some of the high-end models are arguably too pricey for a competitive segment. In short, the Club Campus is compelling value proposition, thanks to its accessible price and the basic but appealing Alpha calibre. Vibrant colours Sharing the same dimensions and overall design as its predecessors, the new pair is set apart by its vivid dial colours. Available in Starlight and Nightsky configurations, this model prominently features a small seconds display with a bold orange second hand that contrasts against the dial. Driving the watch is the Alpha movement, a manual-winding calibre based on the Peseux 7001 architecture but heavily reworked, dressed up, and now made in-house by Nomos. It delivers a 43-hour power reserve an...

Hands On With New Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Collection WatchAdvice
Hublot Spirit Feb 22, 2025

Hands On With New Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Collection

I take the new Spirit of Big Bang collection for a spin to see just how striking these fresh colourways look in person. From bold Sky Blue to versatile Beige and understated Dark Green, each model brings its own unique personality to the wrist! What We Love The three new colours offer different aesthetics to suit a wider audience Sky blue and beige colours are stunning in person New collection offers undeniable wrist-presence, especially with skeletonised dial and colour matching chronograph counters What We Don’t Doesn’t provide a perfect fit for smaller wrists Case back construction can be improved for better “snug” fit. Dark green model’s dial blends in the with skeletonised movement, which hinders readability of time and counters. Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Hublot has started the year off with a bang…quite literally. The brand is celebrating arguably their most iconic collection’s 20th anniversary this year, so we knew it was always going to be quite spectacular. Early last month, Hublot unveiled a host of new timepieces, one of which was the new SAXEM green “sapphire” Big Bang, a true masterclass of a timepiece with a blend of different materials to create a unique and eye-catching timepiece. Another release that I personally loved was the new Spirit of Big Bang collection. For those that my not know, the Spirit of Big Bang collection from Hublot was introduced in 2014 as a b...

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 18, 2025

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int

RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 —  a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years.  Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...

Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Feb 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches

Some watches mimic an early morning sky in April; these three new Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm watches have a playful backstory involving toys. When he was young, former Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver used to build stuff with Meccano, a toy construction system invented in 1898 by Englishman Frank Hornby. I happen to be a […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm

Launched in 2016, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 combines the best of Hublot: modern materials, an edgy skeleton movement with a 10-day power reserve – one of the most important calibres from the brand with the Unico Chronograph – and versatility with the practical one-click interchangeable strap system. With the current trend for smaller watches, […]

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription SJX Watches
Blancpain Jan 21, 2025

Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription

Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille Jan 20, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration

I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified Jan 18, 2025

Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified

Who would have thought a quote from the current Albanian prime minister would be the header of a Fratello article? It was Edi Rama (1964), who is not just a politician but also an artist and writer, who once said, “Compromise in colors is gray.” Too often, people make the safe choice of going for a […] Visit Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified to read the full article.

The Timex Skiathlom: A Bodacious Bunny Slope Companion Worn & Wound
Timex Skiathlom Jan 14, 2025

The Timex Skiathlom: A Bodacious Bunny Slope Companion

Much of the United States has plunged into a veritable Polar Vortex, with thousands carrying out their potentially hazardous commutes to work and turning their heaters on high. Having just returned from shoveling 6 inches of snow off my driveway, I’ve become envious of some who have experienced higher than average snowfall, and are able to enjoy winter activities like sledding down the local hill or having snowball fights or hitting the slopes to ski or snowboard. With this, I felt there’s no better time to look back at the Timex Skiathlom (yes, not Skiathlon), one of the brand’s most ambitious models to date. A watch designed for skiers with all the bright and bold aesthetics of late 80s and early 90s design, it’s become a cult classic among collectors’ circles and a piece worthy of more attention. Here, I’ll provide some background on the Skiathlom’s history, detail what makes the watch such a unique piece of horology, and offer some tips for purchasing one if adding this bodacious retro oddity to your collection seems right up your alley.  Release, Design, and Specs The Skiathlom trademark was registered by Timex on March 5th, 1986––and eventually cancelled on March 29th, 1993––while the earliest advertisement for the watch was published in 1987. The Skiathlom was often featured alongside other sporting-focused watches the company produced during this era such as the Victory, Hooks/Blazer, Tri-Prix, and Wave Rider models. These pieces were sold in...

Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community Fratello
Jan 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the watch community and how to find a group of like-minded (or differently minded) people within it. Whether you seek to meet people in person or online, there’s even a great option if you don’t live in a major city. For our listeners, […] Visit Fratello On Air: Finding Your Place In The Watch Community to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 200T Doxa Doxa Jan 2, 2025

Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T

Doxa, Doxa, Doxa. There’s a lot about the current incarnation of the brand to like and a lot that leaves us enthusiasts questioning what’s going on and why. Which honestly, is fine. It’s cool to see a brand experiment and find out what works for them, but a lot of people seem to expect a straightforward dive watch experience from the brand that draws from its strong history rooted in adventure and aquatic exploration. While I had some strong opinions, I did not “fill in the vacuum with my no-holds-barred opinion” (read Meg’s take on the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds, it’s a good one). Clearly, the diamond-encrusted $9,400 take on this watch is not in my wheelhouse. But what about the $1,590 version that captures all of the classic Doxa charm in an extremely well-wearing package? It seems to have been overshadowed as of late by the diamond-laden version, but hopefully this hands-on can bring it back into focus a bit.  While I’m not a huge Clive Cussler fan (never read anything by the guy), I don’t have any Jacques Cousteau documentaries queued up on my Youtube, and most of my time spent in the ocean is standing on the shore in knee-deep water trying to catch a striped bass at the expense of sleep, I do appreciate a good dive watch. I used to own a Doxa Sub 200, which I really loved and still miss from time to time. Doxa can make a heck of a watch and they always nail the wearability factor in the 200 lineup. Let’s take a look at what makes this diver an excell...

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 SJX Watches
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Dec 12, 2024

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...