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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.

All aboard the Omega Railmaster Time+Tide
Omega Railmaster Editor’s note Aug 16, 2019

All aboard the Omega Railmaster

Editor’s note: A little while ago, someone on a FB watch group I’m part of asked what watch they should buy (out of three versatile, black-dialled tool watches), with one option being the Omega Railmaster. I didn’t have to think about my answer. It was the Railmaster. Hands down. Read on for my reasons why … ContinuedThe post All aboard the Omega Railmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Michel Perchin Watch in “Drapery” Enamel SJX Watches
Aug 8, 2019

Introducing the Michel Perchin Watch in “Drapery” Enamel

Best known as a maker of ultra high-end fountain pens, Michel Perchin is named after one of the workshop directors of Faberge, the legendary jeweller of Imperial Russia famed for the lavish annual Easter Eggs produced for the Tsar. Amongst Faberge’s signature creations were incredible enamelled objects of all sorts finished in brilliantly coloured translucent enamel. The modern day Michel Perchin pens were decorated in the same style, and though the pen business is now defunct, the founder of the brand, Patrick Pinkston, has revived the name to produce a watch similarly decorated in fired enamel. Produced mostly in England but powered by a Swiss movement, the Michel Perchin watch is large, rectangular and decorated with vitreous enamel and diamonds – an aesthetic that’s not for everyone but impressively crafted, albeit at a steep price. The highlight is the “drapery” motif on the dial, that consists of a drapery guilloche engraved by a traditional, hand-operated rose engine, which is then covered in pale blue enamel. Three brilliant cut diamonds form the quarter hour markers, while a solid gold appliqué of the Michel Perchin elephant logo marks 12 o’clock The enamel is done the traditional way by a craftsman in England who first grinds the enamel powder with a mortar and pestle, then adds water or oil to create the mixture that can be painted onto the case surface. The case is then fired to set the enamel, and the process repeated to build up several layers...

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret SJX Watches
Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle Aug 6, 2019

In-Depth: Montblanc Manufactures Le Locle and Villeret

Over the past two decades, Montblanc has evolved from a pure-play luxury pen maker into a serious contender in watchmaking. The company’s venture into watches began quite modestly in 1997, when it rolled out a line of watches powered by outsourced movements. But it was the 2007 integration of Minerva, a fabled maker of chronographs and stopwatches, that gave Montblanc bona fide watchmaking prowess. And by virtue of its own heritage, Minerva also bestowed a degree of legitimacy on Montblanc, along with an extensive archive of historical designs ready to be mined. Watchmaking prowess Le Locle, and then Villeret Earlier in the year I got to explore all facets of Montblanc’s watchmaking with a visit to Montblanc’s twin watchmaking facilities in Le Locle and Villeret. Both sit in the Vallee de Joux, the historical heart of Swiss watchmaking, and are about a 45-minute drive from each other. Each factory is dedicated to a distinct class of watchmaking – simpler and entry-level watches at Le Locle, and haute horlogerie at Villeret. Together, the two factories give Montblanc a unique diversity that has translated into three price categories of watches. Le Locle is responsible for both the first category, entry-level watches powered by Sellita-based movements, and the second, those equipped with mass-produced, in-house movements. Unsurprisingly, the facility produces tens of thousands of watches annually, all manufactured and assembled on an industrial ...

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet SJX Watches
Rolex Wants Jul 29, 2019

Rolex Wants to Help Save the Planet

Many great human endeavours that Rolex has been part of have a distinctly earthly ring to them. From Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summiting the world’s tallest mountain to Jacques Piccard reaching the deepest point in the oceans, or even Fidel Castro journeying through Cuba’s rainforests, a great deal of the planet has been covered with a Rolex keeping time. While Geneva watchmaking giant has sponsored various explorers over the decades, its focus has now shifted subtly, but substantially. Rolex will support ecologically minded explorers of the natural world, specifically to help them learn how to preserve it. Named Perpetual Planet, this doubtlessly well funded initiative consolidates three of the company’s key partnerships – the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, its longterm association with the National Geographic Society, and Mission Blue, led by American oceanographer Sylvia Earle. The Wilsdorf legacy While it is easy to be cynical about a maker of luxury watches claiming to do good, charity is not merely a box to be ticked at Rolex. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had no children and upon his death in 1960, gifted his ownership of the watch brand to an eponymous foundation that’s one of the largest charitable foundations in Europe. Though it operates discreetly, the foundation does so on an immense scale, especially in relation to its home country, which is wealthy but small. From saving the Geneva’s football club to bankrolling the...

Commissioning Horological Art – A Watch Collector’s Experience SJX Watches
Jul 24, 2019

Commissioning Horological Art – A Watch Collector’s Experience

Lovers of horses, airplanes, yachts and cars can choose from many specialised painters if they want a piece depicting their favoured object for the walls of the home or office. While Salvador Dalí’s surrealist “melting watch” paintings are amongst the 20th century’s best known artworks, a search for current day artists specialising in the figurative depictions of watches generates barely a handful of names, though most of whom show their works on Instagram. This is the story of my first commission, a graphic of the Voutilainen GMT-6. The Voutilainen GMT-6 by Alex Eisenzammer (@watchoniste), commissioned by the author High-tech capture Particularly when wristwatches are the subject of art, I follow the original Latin definition of ars, “skills” or “craft”. Therefore, I regard flawless photography of watches as art, as with the Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”, captured by specialist watch photographer Guy Lucas de Peslouan. But perfect photographic illustrations tread a thin line between art and technology. When the photographer’s skills are not at the highest level and Photoshop is heavy-handedly applied, the results are hardly suited to truly capturing a watch, yet find often a place in press releases from brands. Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”. Image – Artsight/Guy Lucas de Peslouan The art of rendering watches or movements with software is very popular with manufacturers. CGI specialist Blade Render describes its philosophy as desir...

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002 SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref Jun 28, 2019

Up Close: Rolex GMT-Master II Meteorite Ref. 126719BLRO-0002

In the Rolex sports watch hall of fame, the GMT-Master II is arguably the most practical. It is a relatively affordable, dual time zone watch; and there are, after all, more people who travel than those who dive or race or sail. At the same time, the GMT-Master has always been available in precious metal, in 18k Everose for instance, and also lavishly bejewelled like the popular sapphire and ruby “SARU”. The new meteorite dial GMT-Master II, on the other hand, is bling meets functionality without the gemstones, making it an unusual and compelling watch. And it’s also the first time Rolex has used meteorite in a watch other than the Daytona or Day-Date. In fact, the meteorite GMT-Master probably the most practical ultra-luxe travel watch out there. And it costs only about US$1600 over the standard white gold GMT-Master with a blue dial, making it a worthwhile upgrade. Maybe “Pan Am” Rolex has not revealed what inspired the meteorite GMT-Master, but the GMT-Master “Pan Am” or “Albino” is obvious. Reputedly made in small numbers for executives at Pan American Airways – the company credited for the creation of the GMT-Master – the GMT-Masters fitted with white dials are either the refs. 6542 or 1675. A handful are known and have sold for well into six figures, but the white dial examples are controversial and often accompanied by unending questions as to whether they are legit. A jewel of a watch In contrast, the modern day equivalent of...

RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza

If you pay attention to the more business-to-business end of watchland you might have noticed that UK-based mega-retailer Watches of Switzerland (not to be confused with our local Aussie retailers of the same name) recently listed on the London Stock Exchange. They noticed it over at Axios, where this interesting piece on the business of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for a Mechanical Watch with a Digital Display, from Our Archives Deployant
Oris e these watches as Jun 9, 2019

Throwback Sundays: Six Recommendations for a Mechanical Watch with a Digital Display, from Our Archives

The concept of a mechanical digital watch is an interesting one. While it is a broad category with no specifics, people usually categorise these watches as timepieces that uses discs with imprinted digits (instead of the conventional analog display) to tell time. Digital watches, predominantly, are often synonymous with battery operated timepieces that displays timeRead More

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 Time+Tide
Panerai s latest Luminor Tourbillon May 27, 2019

INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768

Panerai’s top-tier timepieces go by the name of Lo Scienziato - avant-garde evolutions of the brand’s classic case shapes that really let the watches’ technical side shine.  Of course, the technology is present in the movement: a skeletonised, three-dimensional offering that fills the 48mm case; the P.2005/T calibre boasts a central time and GMT, 24-hour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The pure craziness of Panerai’s latest Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato PAM00768 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Proof these 5 watches are tougher than you could ever be Time+Tide
Rolex s deepest Apr 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Proof these 5 watches are tougher than you could ever be

Watch brands love to hang their proverbial hat on the strength and resilience of their timepieces, but oftentimes these claims are just that - claims. Sometimes, though, these slightly-too-tall tales are backed up with hard facts. That’s the case with these five watches here, from Rolex’s deepest of divers (and bonus James Cameron) to Casio’s … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Proof these 5 watches are tougher than you could ever be appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot s Big Bang MP-11 Apr 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire

Hublot is, in many ways, a brand given to extremes. Or, at least, not doing things by halves. Their latest twin takes on the powerful MP-11 is a clear case (if you’ll pardon the pun) in point.  If you’re not au fait with the MP-11, it’s a fairly impressive piece of tech that is an … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A song of ice and fire, Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 now in carbon and sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Are watches the new bitcoin?  Time+Tide
Apr 5, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Are watches the new bitcoin? 

Well, that’s the somewhat provocative title of this piece by Alex Williams, which cites numerous high-profile celebrities wearing high-ticket price vintage pieces as the driver for this ever-rising tide. For people reading T+T regularly, it’s the tale of ever-increasing premiums on seemingly innocuous sports watches. But, to give credence to the bitcoin hook in the title, there’s … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Are watches the new bitcoin?  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Peak ridiculousness achieved with the unholy fusion of iPhone and tourbillon Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2019

NEWS: Peak ridiculousness achieved with the unholy fusion of iPhone and tourbillon

So, this exists. Look, I write about high-end mechanical watches on the daily, so I’ve got a pretty high threshold for the superfluous things in life, but this is just ridiculous.  A company called Caviar (of course they’re called Caviar) has revolutionised the world of both watchmaking and iPhones by releasing (and I quote): “the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Peak ridiculousness achieved with the unholy fusion of iPhone and tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the PAM00979 Time+Tide
Panerai s Submersible Marina Militare Jan 19, 2019

VIDEO: Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the PAM00979

In recent years, Panerai has made some lateral moves, with watches like the more land-based Due. But for SIHH 2019, one of the original dive watch brands was underwater in full force. Their collection was chock-full of Submersibles (which is now a distinct line of its own). Panerai’s Marina Militare watches pay tribute to the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech, the PAM00979 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Dec 24, 2018

IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune

The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms -is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking  Time+Tide
Breguet s Tradition 7047 Dec 7, 2018

VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking 

This watch is pure flex. And not just because it’s a beast on the wrist, thanks largely to that hugely tall domed sapphire crystal. No, the reason the Breguet Tradition 7047 is such a power watch is the movement. Not only is there a whopping great tourbillon whirring away - taking up the top half … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Never break the chain … Breguet’s Tradition 7047 is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde  Time+Tide
Tissot s Heritage Petite Seconde  Dec 5, 2018

VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde 

Watches - the best watches at least - do more than tell the time. They transcend their function to evoke an atmosphere or a mood. Tissot’s latest heritage piece, the Petite Seconde, is a quite wonderful example of this. Sure, it’s a 42mm steel piece with a classic manually winding movement, and a pretty classic … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The old world charm of Tissot’s Heritage Petite Seconde  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A watch for the opera – the Raymond Weil Parsifal Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Nov 6, 2018

INTRODUCING: A watch for the opera – the Raymond Weil Parsifal

It goes without saying really, Raymond Weil have a penchant for the melodious methods. Releasing scores of limited-edition pieces that pay tribute to all things musical – from Gibson guitars and Marshall amps, to Aussie rockers AC/DC and Ol’ Blue Eyes, Mr Frank Sinatra. The latest note in their sonata of releases revisits a collection … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A watch for the opera – the Raymond Weil Parsifal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SPOTTED! By AG: Dispatch 15, October 2018 – a heavy metal month Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2018

SPOTTED! By AG: Dispatch 15, October 2018 – a heavy metal month

October was a fun month for watch-spotting, with no discernible theme, other than perhaps gold? Even then, we kept things real - here’s a look at some of the more random pieces that crossed my camera throughout the month … Kicking off October, I caught up with local pilot Dale (who goes by @MrAceKProductions on Instagram), … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! By AG: Dispatch 15, October 2018 – a heavy metal month appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.