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Results for Equation of Time

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Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith s First New Release Jan 17, 2024

Zenith’s First New Release of the Year is a Pair of Blue Dialed Boutique Editions from their Pilot Collection

After a period of relative quiet in the watch industry over the holidays, as we head into mid-January it’s clear that we are not being fully launched into New Release Season, with news coming across our desks about watch releases from some of our favorite brands. Some we can share now, and some will have to wait, but it’s clear whatever respite we had between Thanksgiving and New Years is, well, completely over. First out of the gate among the big Swiss luxury brands is Zenith, with news about an addition to their Pilot collection, which was their big launch in 2023.  The Pilot collection took us by surprise last year. After several years of focusing on the Defy and Chronomaster lines, it felt like a left turn of sorts. But Zenith is rightfully incredibly proud of the Pilot and the heritage it represents. Zenith trademarked “Pilot” in 1904, and is famously the only watchmaker who can use the word solo on a watch dial. The watches we saw last year represented a new twist on a format we know well. They aren’t regurgitations of a historic reference, but feel like a modern realization of an aviation themed watch with contemporary proportions and materials.  The new boutique editions seen here take the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback and add blue dials, offering an alternative to the jet black seen on last year’s collection. According to Zenith, the shade of blue seen on these dials is meant to evoke the night sky as seen by a pilot, but blue is a commo...

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Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8” SJX Watches
Omega Updates Jan 17, 2024

Omega Updates the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”

Six years ago, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon “Apollo 8”, a distinctive take on the Speedmaster Moonwatch featuring a Moon surface-patterned movement and dial. Basically an amalgamation of the all-ceramic Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) with the Moonwatch, the model has now undergone a significant mechanical upgrades with a new METAS-certified calibre, while preserving essentially the same design. Initial thoughts The original Apollo 8 was noteworthy for challenging the traditional concept of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. While it had the same movement and dimensions, the materials, styling, and finishing were entirely different. Visually, it was a major departure from the familiar Moonwatch. The latest version sticks to the same aesthetic, so it doesn’t bring much novelty in terms of appearance, save for a rocket-shaped seconds hand. But it does have an upgraded movement, essentially the next-generation Moonwatch movement finished in the Apollo 8 style. As is often the case with Omega, incremental improvements to existing models are a means to explore new concepts or technologies, which in the case of the original Apollo 8 would have been the textured lunar-surface finishing. This new model would have been more significant if a more developed or advanced version of the texturing had been applied, setting it apart more obviously from its predecessor. Priced at US$14,300, the upgraded Apollo 8 falls sits at the middle of the price range for the cera...

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Omega Introduces a New Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 with a More Detailed Lunar Surface Inspired Dial and a Saturn V Seconds Hand Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Jan 16, 2024

Omega Introduces a New Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 with a More Detailed Lunar Surface Inspired Dial and a Saturn V Seconds Hand

A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive.  The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...

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Seiko Adds a Pair of New References to their Popular Black Series Worn & Wound
Tudor Jan 16, 2024

Seiko Adds a Pair of New References to their Popular Black Series

There is a particular appeal to a stealthed-out tool watch. Maybe it’s the idea that the original design has been placed on the backburner for a more urgent, clandestine, reason. Or the ironic low-key aesthetic that often makes even more of a visual impact. We’ve seen various brands take the “blackout” approach, from Omega to Tudor, and the results are typically pretty intriguing. Seiko currently has a trio of black and orange watches under the Prospex collection that it calls “The Black Series”, but today it infuses the lineup with two new references that take things a step further by eliminating any colored accents and going for an (almost) all-out black look. These are the new 2024 Black Series SRPK43 and SSC923. The first of the new references, the SRPK43 is a familiar form but with a new face. It is 45mm wide but with a stout 47.4mm lug to lug measurement. Thickness is 13.2mm. The turtle-style stainless steel case and accompanying bracelet are, naturally, all black, as is the unidirectional ceramic bezel. In a nice touch, the day and date wheels have matching black backgrounds.  The only use of color is in the lume, which Seiko calls “Green Lumibrite Pro”. In the light, it is a pale green; at night it shines a more vivid green. The intended effect is to give the impression of peering through night vision goggles, and we’ll have to see the watches in person to assess how well Seiko has hit their mark. The SRPK43 is powered by the automatically-windin...

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Introducing – The Updated Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Jan 16, 2024

Introducing – The Updated Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

The connection between Omega and space exploration isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. While born as a racing chronograph, the 1957 Speedmaster is now known by all as the official watch of astronauts, as the watch worn by Apollo 11 crew members… It’s nicknamed the Moonwatch for a reason. Yet, there’s more than this specific version […]

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Blancpain Revisits the Traditional Chinese Calendar for the Year of the Dragon SJX Watches
Blancpain Revisits Jan 11, 2024

Blancpain Revisits the Traditional Chinese Calendar for the Year of the Dragon

Originally introduced 12 years ago, Blancpain’s Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first serially-produced wristwatch to feature this specific calendar. To mark the start of the new year, the brand unveils the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Wood Dragon“. Featuring both the Chinese and Gregorian calendar, the limited edition is presented in an unusual combination of green enamel and rose gold, a first for the model. Initial thoughts Though it is not longer unique, the Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first of its kind at launch in 2012, making it a landmark for Blancpain. However, the aesthetic went unchanged for all of that time, so a new dial is certainly welcome. While watch brands can often iterate a model too often, Blancpain certainly wasn’t guilty of that here. The new model is more striking than its predecessors. The dial departs from the white enamel that’s been standard for the model since the beginning. Though green is an unusual choice, it suits the complication well as it evokes the colour of jade, which is also thematically congruent with the theme. While it is good thing to see this watch with a new dial colour, it would have been even better to see an upgrade to the movement in some way, as the calibre has been unchanged since its introduction. While the movement is still impressive and complicated, it is big. In fact, a significant mechanical upgrade could be retaining the exact same calendar functions, but in a smaller or thin...

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Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds Worn & Wound
Garrick Jan 10, 2024

Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second.    The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the  Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances.  The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...

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Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms” SJX Watches
Blancpain & Swatch Introduce Jan 10, 2024

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms”

Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...

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Introducing – The Full-Black Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty-Fathoms Ocean Of Storms Monochrome
Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty-Fathoms Jan 10, 2024

Introducing – The Full-Black Blancpain x Swatch Scuba Fifty-Fathoms Ocean Of Storms

A couple of months ago, Blancpain & Swatch caused quite a storm by presenting their collaboration based on the iconic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Following the success of the Moonswatch with Omega, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms captured the spirit of the legendary dive watch in bioceramic, a lightweight material that came in five different colours. Now, […]

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