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Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 11, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker

ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement.  Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly.  Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards.  Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...

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History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean Quill & Pad
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apr 11, 2024

History of Divers’ Watches: Voyage to the Bottom of the Ocean

It is often said that it is easier to send a person to the Moon than to the ocean floor because of the extreme conditions found at great depths, such as no visibility and overwhelming pressure. However, in 1960 a wristwatch (Rolex “Deep Sea Special”) accompanied mankind to the deepest ocean floor even before it accompanied mankind to the Moon in 1969 (Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch).

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The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

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Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

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Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

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Introducing The Very Limited Grand Seiko SBGW314 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko SBGW314 While I'm admittedly Apr 9, 2024

Introducing The Very Limited Grand Seiko SBGW314

While I'm admittedly more of the sporty mil-spec watch type, I know a beautiful watch when I see it. So far, today's new releases have been really strong over at the Tudor and Grand Seiko camps, and I think they've stolen the start of the show. One of these killer new releases is the Grand Seiko SBGW314, a limited edition watch that's meant to pay tribute to the early days of the brand while offering some modern touches. Of course, we get some of the design inspiration coming from nature. In this case, we're talking about a starry night sky.

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First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad, Decked Out in Lightweight Titanium Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Decked Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad, Decked Out in Lightweight Titanium

At this year’s Geneva edition of Watches & Wonders, Ulysse Nardin is introducing a new version of its Freak S with aesthetic updates that make the ingenious, complex, unorthodox watch even more compelling. Introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001 under the visionary leadership of the late Rolf Schnyder, the original Freak sparked a wave of […]

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Alpina Unveils The Alpiner Extreme Quartz And The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic Fratello
Alpina Unveils Apr 9, 2024

Alpina Unveils The Alpiner Extreme Quartz And The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic

Ever since Alpina introduced the updated aesthetic for its Alpiner Extreme collection in 2022, we have slowly seen more introductions with the same design signature. The newest addition to the Alpiner Extreme collection is a series of exciting quartz models. The four new releases include smaller cases, a Swiss quartz movement, and new dial colors. […] Visit Alpina Unveils The Alpiner Extreme Quartz And The Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic to read the full article.

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First Look – IWC Updates Its Iconic Portugieser Automatic 40 & 42 With New Dials and Cases (incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Updates Apr 9, 2024

First Look – IWC Updates Its Iconic Portugieser Automatic 40 & 42 With New Dials and Cases (incl. Video)

This year is all about the Portugieser for IWC, and the brand brings several spending novelties to the table, including updated icons within the already iconic collection. Next to the Portugieser Chronograph receiving an aesthetic update, there are a couple more things to talk about. As a collection, the Portugieser can trace back its roots […]

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NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente Worn & Wound
Nomos Marks their Watches & Apr 9, 2024

NOMOS Marks their Watches & Wonders Debut with an Affordable Limited Edition Tangente

Of the brands making their Watches & Wonders debut in 2024, perhaps none will be more closely watched by Worn & Wound readers than NOMOS, long a favorite in the affordable independent space. After several years away from the international trade show scene following the demise of Baselworld, Nomos is back this year making their first trip to the Palexpo, and featuring a fun spin on a classic with new limited edition takes on the Tangente 38 Date. With eye-catching color palettes–and equally eye-catching German names like “Flamingopink,” “Lemonbiscuit,” and “Sportbunt”–the new Tangente 38 Date models combine fan favorite design with an array of new colors the brand hopes will give wearers a chance to better express themselves through their watch. With a staggering 31 different colors, there are plenty of options for the watch enthusiast who wants something a little different from what you might typically see in the watch world.  But what might be most eye-catching is the price: Unlike many of the limited edition watches being unveiled this week, the new NOMOS Tangente 38 Dates are genuinely affordable, and actually cheaper than the standard model. The regular run Tangente 38 Date can be found on the NOMOS website for $2,780. The limited edition watches will sell for $2,310, a move NOMOS sees as an investment in brand accessibility. The LE Tangente 38 Date is still chronometer tested, still has a sapphire crystal and a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, an...

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Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos Fratello
Cartier Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos

Whether it’s the more elegant and classy Santos-Dumont or the sportier Santos de Cartier, Cartier’s Santos collection continues to be immensely popular. No wonder the French Maison adds a few new references to the lineup every year. Understandably, 2024 is no exception, and there are even a few surprise appearances here. What to think of […] Visit Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde

If you’re new to watches and have noticed the big wave of retro love sweeping the world, the Ulysse Nardin Freak will surely shock your system. And it will stun you even more if you are not privy to the fact that this is an ever-evolving creation that is already over 20 years old. That’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde to read the full article.

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The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.

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New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Apr 9, 2024

New: Vacheron Constantin Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More

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Cartier Introduces the Pebble Tigre SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Cartier Introduces the Pebble Tigre

Cartier’s suite of Animal Jewellery watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024 includes the striking Pebble “Tigre”. Described by its maker as inspired by “an imaginary encounter between zebra and crocodile that… is both graphic and organic”, the watch is essentially a Pebble with a double-layer bezel decorated in lacquer and precious stones. Watch aficionados will be disappointed that it is a traditional jewellery watch – more jewellery than watch – and the movement inside is quartz. Initial thoughts Thematically, the new Pebble is similar to the Crash Tigre with its abstract, animal-patterned cased. Though it’s in keeping with Cartier’s tradition of animal-inspired jewellery watches, the new Pebble is nonetheless surprising since it’s a striking departure from the traditional Pebble. The watch is slightly larger than the conventional Pebble, particularly in terms of thickness, but it’s still relatively compact. But it has instant presence thanks to the extravagant decoration. It’s unfortunately that the movement is quartz, but that is typical for most of Cartier’s high jewellery watches. This will limit its appeal for mechanical watch enthusiasts, but fans of Cartier’s jewelled form watches will appreciate the design and execution. The Cartier Crash Tigre Wild things The Animal Jewellery collection of 2024 is made up of watches modelled on animals that are a recurring theme in Cartier jewellery, namely panthers, crocodiles, and tigers. Most ...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

For the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating in a big way with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Given the milestone anniversary, it’s fitting to see the most technically exceptional Datograph delivered in the appealing Honeygold “Lumen” format first seen in 2021 with the Zeitwerk. This is the ultimate anniversary Datograph, with a price to match. The 25th anniversary, however, is also being marked with the more affordable Datograph Up/Down in white gold. Initial thoughts It’s hard to overstate the impact that the original Datograph had on fine watchmaking – specifically the construction of high-end chronograph movements – since its debut in 1999. Much has been written about this moment, but in short this is an anniversary worth celebrating.  As good as the “Lumen” is, and it’s nearly faultless, I expected more from Lange. At the end of the day it’s a combination of known elements, so the end result is not groundbreaking.  That said, there isn’t much I’d change. The underlying L951 calibre remains best-in-class after a quarter of a century, and the tourbillon version, which has now been in production for nine years, is executed masterfully. Given the degree of complication and Lange’s proclivity for making big, sturdy watches, the proportions are actually not that bad. While known to be a bit top heavy, the overall dimensions are not outside the norm, especially for a watch of this complexit...

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Hands-On: the Fears Redcliff 39.5 Date Worn & Wound
Casio n? Jumping straight Apr 8, 2024

Hands-On: the Fears Redcliff 39.5 Date

The date: 3 November 2016. The place: Saatchi Gallery, London. The Fears watch company is relaunched by Nicholas Bowman Scargill in a story that most Fearsfans are now familiar with. The watch that relaunched Fears was not the popular and archetypal Brunswick, but the Redcliff Date. This quartz watch made use of the now-familiar ‘Pipette’ motif but was an altogether more everyday watch compared to the dressier Brunswick that followed a year later and catapulted Fears to success. In late February, Fears launched an update to the Redcliff line and, to differentiate it from that original model, named it the Redcliff 39.5 Date. Nicholas was kind enough to show the range to me in a London pub just before release, and even with dingy lighting it was clear that the quality and attention to detail were present. I have now been able to spend a little more time with the Pewter Grey in some lighter surroundings, though my initial impressions remain fairly unchanged. Is this a watch for every occasion? Jumping straight to the dial, I think this Pewter Grey is the best of the bunch. The Raven Black is probably more versatile. The Cherry Red makes a strong first impression. The ‘boutique only’ Mallard Green is a subtle gem. However, the Pewter Grey is a rich amalgamation of the best parts of each. The strong vertical brushing of the dial changes the shade from a bright and shimmering silver to a more brooding slate grey. I have to say I prefer the dial at its lightest in bright ...

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First Look – The World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, the New 1.70mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (incl. video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, the New 1.70mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (incl. video)

The competition for ultra-thin watches is more intense than ever. Watches with a thinness that would have been unimaginable a few years ago have recently been unveiled, with manufacturers squeezing complications into minimal space and tirelessly chasing microns. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo saga has garnered widespread recognition in this realm. The brand’s remarkable series of records […]

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A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Fratello
Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Apr 8, 2024

A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter

The introduction of the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first nonstop balloon flight around the world. It does so with a smoky orange dial and a piece of the history-making balloon on the case back. But more importantly, it’s a completely new watch. The 2013-introduced Aerospace Evo now has a […] Visit A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter to read the full article.

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First Look – The New Czapek of Watches & Wonders 2024, Including the Promenade Collection Monochrome
Czapek Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The New Czapek of Watches & Wonders 2024, Including the Promenade Collection

Independent watchmaker Czapek whets our appetite ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, pre-releasing the handsome Antarctique Mount Erebus, the first gold version of its successful luxury sports watch. But there is more coming our way from the creative brand: two cool new versions of the Antarctique and, more importantly, a new collection, Promenade. The New […]

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