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Results for Equation of Time

33,562 articles · 3,407 videos found · page 216 of 1233

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet cal 4401/4409 Dec 12, 2023

Insight: The Breguet Cal. 728 of the Type XX Chronograph

With roots in 1950s French military-issue chronographs, the modern-day Type XX Chronographe was originally released in the mid-1990s and is now’s trademark pilot’s chronograph – and also the brand’s entry-level complication. Originally utilising Lemania-based movement in prior generations, the Type XX was entirely revamped, inside and out, with the unveiling of the Type XX Chronograph 2057 and 2067 earlier this year. While the aesthetics have been revised, the most notable upgrade in the new-generation Type XX is a brand-new movement, the cal. 728. The cal. 728 is a high-frequency movement running at 36,000 beats per hour that employs a novel patent-pending flying mechanism as well as an inventive reset system. The release of a completely new, in-house chronograph movement is uncommon, especially one with novel innovations that went under the radar. In fact, the cal. 728 is arguably one of the most sophisticated and advanced modern-day chronograph movements, putting it alongside the Audemars Piguet cal. 4401/4409 and Rolex cal. 4131. As a result, the cal. 728 deserves a closer look. Controlled return The cal. 728 is actually two related movements: the cal. 728 is an automatic, flyback-chronograph movement with three registers for elapsed seconds, minutes, and hours that is inside the three-counter Type XX ref. 2067, while the cal. 7281 is a two-counter version of the calibre found in the military-inspired Type XX ref. 2057. The most novel component of the cal. 728 ...

Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Daytona – Reprise Dec 10, 2023

Hello, Newman: A Collector Looks Askance at the Cult of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona – Reprise

For watch lovers, the name “Paul Newman” is associated first and foremost with Rolex, and in particular with a subset of that brand’s Daytona watches with specific dial characteristics, including a recessed outer seconds track and subdials that feature block-shaped hashmarks and Art Deco-style Arabic numerals. But what does this nickname mean for these references on the vintage market? And what does GaryG think about it?

Interview – Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker Monochrome
Trilobe Dec 8, 2023

Interview – Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker

A savvy mix of boldness and French poetry, Trilobe timepieces eschew traditional codes and provide their own offbeat take on mechanical watchmaking. Dubai Watch Week provided the perfect opportunity to sit down with its CEO/founder and creative director, Gautier Massonneau, to discuss how this young independent watchmaking brand was born, his plans for the future […]

First Look – The Return of Rado’s Anatomically Perfect Anatom Collection Monochrome
Rado s Anatomically Perfect Anatom Dec 8, 2023

First Look – The Return of Rado’s Anatomically Perfect Anatom Collection

A brand with a distinctive identity, Rado is widely recognised as a pioneer of innovative materials, starting with the world’s first scratchproof material used on board the DiaStar of 1962 and evolving to become a reference in the production of high-tech ceramic cases. Interestingly, Rado has developed these materials in tandem with the brand’s other […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans Worn & Wound
Maen Dec 4, 2023

A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans

As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. The post A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch Monochrome
Universal Genève Dec 4, 2023

Book Review – The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch

While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]

One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Amongst Dec 4, 2023

One-of-a-kind Tourbillons from Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers

Amongst the latest Les Cabinotiers collection from Vacheron Constantin, titled Récits de Voyages, is a group of complicated watches which stand out. All feature a tourbillon, but decorated and elaborated upon in different ways for striking diverse results. The collection includes a pair of Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillons, “Tribute to Arabesque” ref. 6650C and “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C. Alongside these we have two tourbillons in contrasting styles, the Armillary Tourbillon “Tribute to Art Deco Style” ref. 9860C and Malte Tourbillon “Tribute to Haussmannian Style” ref. 30135.  Initial thoughts  All four watches exemplify what Les Cabinotiers is about – one-off watches equipped with the brand’s highest level calibres and decorated by the best artisans. In doing so these watches wonderfully capture aspects of the company’s history from around the world, the defining theme of Récits de Voyages, which translates as “travel stories”. Given the specialty of these watches, they will not be for everyone. With strong, unique designs, these timepieces are not looking to appeal to the mass market, rather they attest to the ability of the craftspeople at Vacheron Constantin.  A personal favourite from this line-up has to be the “Tribute to Art Deco” with its deep-blue wood marquetry dial pairing perfectly with the hand-engraved, pink gold case. While the case is undeniably large, that is unavoidable due to the venerable calibre fitt...

New: Lang & Heyne’s “Manufaktur Edition” of the Anton Model Deployant
Lang & Heyne Dec 2, 2023

New: Lang & Heyne’s “Manufaktur Edition” of the Anton Model

The most striking feature of the Manufaktur Edition is the flying tourbillon with a twist. The lower section of the dial opens up, offering a unique perspective. Peer through the dial, past the tourbillon cage, and capture a lateral glimpse into the heart of the tourbillon. The rehaut functions as a mirror, enabling enthusiasts to scrutinize the intricate mechanics and finesse of the tourbillon.

Arcanaut’s New “Havender” and “Klint” Dials Make Use of Unexpected Materials to Great Effect Worn & Wound
Nov 30, 2023

Arcanaut’s New “Havender” and “Klint” Dials Make Use of Unexpected Materials to Great Effect

We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways.  First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters.  Once a...

Baltic Introduces Gold Toned Versions of Three of their Most Popular Watches Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals Nov 29, 2023

Baltic Introduces Gold Toned Versions of Three of their Most Popular Watches

For nearly seven years, French watch brand Baltic has been producing at a luxury level that far exceeds its retail price point. We’re always excited to see them fill out their collection with new references, and today they add three new additions to the MR01, Bicompax, and HMS lines. Think of these new releases as sisters, if you will. Each reference combines black and, in a first for Baltic, gold PVD, for an elegant finish, but each has its own distinct personality. First there is the MR01. Best described as “small but mighty,” this 36mm reference sits comfortably on either a man’s or woman’s wrist with a 9mm case height, while also being tonally perfect to wear as your dress watch. A subsidiary seconds subdial is found at 7:00, while the rest of the dial is pared-down and handsome, featuring subtle details like Breguet numerals and leaf hands. The MR01 is powered by a Hangzhou CAL5000a automatic movement, wound via a micro rotor, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. Next up is the black-and-gold addition to the Bicompax line-up. Inspired by watches of the 1940’s, the Bicompax 02 case comes in at a comfortable 38mm. Given the time period of its reference point, it’s no wonder that much of this design was inspired by the Art Deco period. The design features a brushed sector housing the hour-markers, along with two subdials sporting a stylish azurage finish. The remaining dial is polished, introducing a subtle contrast to the overall look. Addi...

Seiko Drops a Pair of Retro Automatic Chronographs with the Speedtimer SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Nov 24, 2023

Seiko Drops a Pair of Retro Automatic Chronographs with the Speedtimer

Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor.  The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts  Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...

Awake Introduces the Summetria, a Concept Watch Inspired by the Inherent Symmetry of the Natural World Worn & Wound
Nov 23, 2023

Awake Introduces the Summetria, a Concept Watch Inspired by the Inherent Symmetry of the Natural World

Over the course of the last year, we’ve been keeping regular tabs on Awake, a microbrand with roots in France that operates within very narrow niches. Their watches are high concept and put a premium on storytelling, which admittedly is not everyone’s cup of tea. But we appreciate their creativity, and believe that this hobby is better and more interesting when brands like Awake are around to remind us that the watch world is encompasses a lot more than black dialed dive watches and vintage reissues. Their latest project, the Summetria collection, is based on perhaps their most abstract idea yet: the inherent beauty in nature, and the symmetry of all living things.  The specific idea of symmetry is tackled here through guilloche dial treatments, which Awake relates to the natural symmetry of things like a butterfly’s wings or flower petals. Awake notes in their press materials for the Summetria collection that to human beings, symmetry seen in nature appears almost unimaginably complex, but the reason it exists at all is because “nature prefers simplicity.” From Awake’s perspective, it’s all about simplicity, and there’s a clear dichotomy there between the inherent complexity of watchmaking (and the application of guilloche) and the visual and functional simplicity of natural symmetry.  Like I said, it’s abstract. But I appreciate that Awake is trying to draw connections between their watch designs and the natural world in ways that other brands do not ...