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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Watches And Wonders 2024: Is This The Year I Lose Touch With Rolex? Fratello
Rolex ? As you may Apr 15, 2024

Watches And Wonders 2024: Is This The Year I Lose Touch With Rolex?

As you may know, I am a long-term Rolex admirer. I wrote a book on the vintage Rolex Datejust, and I both own and have owned several “crowned” watches over the years. This year’s Watches and Wonders, however, sees the brand lean further into a realm that I find myself struggling to appreciate. So, as […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2024: Is This The Year I Lose Touch With Rolex? to read the full article.

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon

No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...

The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment Worn & Wound
Hublot MP-11 Gets Apr 9, 2024

The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment

Watches & Wonders 2024 is here, and with it comes another addition to Hublot’s expanding lineup of colorful sapphire-cased watches. These vibrantly hued sapphire cases have become a bit of a staple for Hublot in the last few years, and I am here for it. As someone whose preferences typically skew towards the sensible and sedate, you might be surprised to learn that, in staunch defiance of my typical taste and common sense, Hublot’s experiments have produced some of my favorite recent watches. I’m a big believer in fun watches and, for all the flack that gets sent Hublot’s way, it’s impossible to deny the smile that creeps across your face when you strap on a giant purple sapphire tourbillon. Today’s addition to the brightly colored lineup is a new limited version of the Big Bang MP-11. The MP-11 was first introduced six years ago (back when Baselworld was still a thing) and is no stranger to transparency. Over the years, the MP-11 has seen releases in clear sapphire, dark blue sapphire, and green SAXEM. This new release brings a different character to the familiar piece, with a brand new icy glacier blue sapphire case and matching rubber strap, complemented by titanium hardware, bezel screws, and crown. The new color, which Hublot is calling ‘Water Blue Sapphire’ and releasing in a limited edition of just 50, is the result of a new chemical formula, and results in a color that seems to change based on the light around the watch from a pale blue to an ocean-...

First Look – The World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, the New 1.70mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (incl. video) Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, the New 1.70mm Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (incl. video)

The competition for ultra-thin watches is more intense than ever. Watches with a thinness that would have been unimaginable a few years ago have recently been unveiled, with manufacturers squeezing complications into minimal space and tirelessly chasing microns. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo saga has garnered widespread recognition in this realm. The brand’s remarkable series of records […]

Czapek’s Antarctique Makes its Gold Debut Worn & Wound
Czapek s Antarctique Makes Mar 28, 2024

Czapek’s Antarctique Makes its Gold Debut

The Czapek Antarctique has been, without question, one of the big indie hits of the last five years, and a clear result of that success has been the continued expansion of the Antarctique lineup. A quick glance at the current Czapek catalog will show plenty of options, with the Antarctique line now consisting of not just the core 40.5mm steel model, but also smaller versions, a release in titanium, and even a slightly larger rattrapante chronograph. One conspicuous absence though, at least until now, was gold. With the release of the Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus, that has now changed, and in a big way. Named after a volcano on Antarctica’s Ross Island that quite literally spews gold when it erupts, the Mount Erebus (whose gold was not actually mined in Antarctica - that would be illegal) editions offer everything we’ve come to expect from Czapek’s signature sports watch, now in a choice of either 5N rose gold or 2N yellow gold.   Excepting the visit to King Midas, no big changes or dramatic updates have been made from the standard steel release of the Antarctique, and that’s a very good thing. The Mount Erebus uses the same in-house micro-rotor SXH5 movement, sports the same dimensions (40.5mm across and 10.6mm thick), and even uses the vertically brushed lamé dial first developed for the initial release of the Antarctique Terre Adélie in 2020. The Mount Erebus also retains 150m of water resistance and the proprietary ‘Easy Release’ system, allowing ow...

Introducing – The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT Monochrome
Mar 27, 2024

Introducing – The New Bianchet Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT

In 2021, Bianchet, an independent, family-owned and family-operated brand, unveiled its inaugural creation, the B1.618 Tourbillon Openworked. This limited edition timepiece established the foundation for Bianchet’s design language and ethos. Building upon this foundation, the brand introduced subsequent releases, including the B1.618 Grande Date and, for this year, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT. True […]

IFL Watches Releases The Oris Aquis Atlantis - Exploring The Great Depths Of The Sea Fratello
Oris Aquis Atlantis - Exploring Mar 25, 2024

IFL Watches Releases The Oris Aquis Atlantis - Exploring The Great Depths Of The Sea

IFL Watches keeps knocking out one fun release after another. Among the brand’s projects, we have seen some amazing dial art that varies greatly in style but is always interesting. As I said in previous articles, my favorites are the Midnight Sky and Galaxy dials used for different models. The technique of pointillism adds great […] Visit IFL Watches Releases The Oris Aquis Atlantis - Exploring The Great Depths Of The Sea to read the full article.

Just Because – A Set Of Unique Raúl Pagès Régulateur à Détente RP1s With Dials By Master Enameller Anita Porchet Monochrome
Mar 21, 2024

Just Because – A Set Of Unique Raúl Pagès Régulateur à Détente RP1s With Dials By Master Enameller Anita Porchet

When two masters of their respective crafts meet, it’s very likely greatness will ensue. However, while masters may strengthen each other, it’s difficult to find common ground when crafts might seem at odds. Despite this, a positive and uniquely intriguing outcome is still a possibility. Such is the case with the collaboration of Raúl Pagès, […]

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 20, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in Titanium

Girard-Perregaux has revealed the newest iteration of its sports chronograph, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 – the name is a reference to the 49th anniversary of a model originally created for the Italian market. The new chronograph retains all the characteristics of the current version in steel but is entirely in titanium and matched with a monochromatic grey dial. Initial thoughts A titanium sports chronograph isn’t revolutionary – there are a lot of them on the market – but the new Laureato possesses qualities that distinguish it from the competition. The low-key, all-grey aesthetic is appealing and also reduces the visual heft of the watch. In spite of its considerable size of 42 mm, the all-titanium construction reduces the bulky feel. Furthermore, the short lugs help with the fit on the wrist. And more so than the steel versions with variously coloured dial, this grey dial has a retro feel as it evokes the original integrated-bracelet sports watches of the 1970s, the very watches that inspired the Laureato, which almost uniformly sported grey-blue dials. The chronograph carries a price tag of US$19,400, a US$800 hike over the steel version. For a lightweight, monochromatic variant of the model, the premium is justified. All grey Based on the current Laureato Chronograph that made its debut in 2018, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 marks the 49th anniversary of the 1975 launch of the Laureato, which was reputedly named after the 1967 Dustin Hoffman film The Gradu...

Evergoods Launches the CPL16, a Smaller Version of their Popular Backpack Worn & Wound
Mar 19, 2024

Evergoods Launches the CPL16, a Smaller Version of their Popular Backpack

Evergoods, the brainchild of Jack Barley and Kevin Dee, has released a new backpack, proving once again that big things come in small packages. Founded in 2016, Evergoods set out with one mission: “Create long-lasting, high-quality crossover equipment. Combining their experience from working at some of the biggest names in the outdoor industry (Goruck and Patagonia), Barley and Dee built Evergoods from the ground up, literally. After designing custom furniture for their facility in Bozeman, MT, the team rapidly moved to create their two flagship products, the Civic Panel Loader 24 (CPL) and the Mountain Panel Loader 30 (MPL). From these two products, they would expand their staff and product lines, becoming a leader in the soft-goods industry.  Their newest release, the CPL16, builds upon the iconic legacy of its big sibling, the CPL24. Made from a solution-dyed custom-made 840d ballistic nylon, YKK reverse coil zippers, a highly breathable back panel, and a water-repellent coating, this pack was made to conquer your day with ease. The sleek exterior of the pack features a standard top handle, as well as a side handle allowing you to carry it like a briefcase. Moving inside, you’ll find a largely open main compartment with an internal stretch pocket perfect for carrying folders or books, and a fully padded laptop compartment capable of fitting up to a 16” MacBook Pro. Evergoods describes this pack the best, saying “It’s the do-it-all workhorse of an EDC bag you ...

Exploring Evergreens: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Mar 12, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface

In this series called Exploring Evergreens, we review watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves whether they have managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how they feel today, and, ultimately, if they’re worth their current […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs Mar 10, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. With sunshine finally appearing after a gray winter, it’s time to look forward to spring and summer. This week, we have a very special showdown. It’s a battle that we have never seen in our series - the current Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M versus the current Rolex Submariner […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 126610LN to read the full article.

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2024

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right

Sometimes perpetual calendars are too complicated but a simple calendar just doesn't cut it anymore because nearly half the months have less than 31 days, making it five adjustments a year too many for some. But don’t fret, there is a middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars: the annual calendar automatically adjusts for each month with 30 or 31 days, meaning just one adjustment per year for the owner in February. Here's a brief history of the complication.

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials

Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...

Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 Fratello
Rolex Explorer Ref 114270 Mar 4, 2024

Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270

In this series called Exploring Evergreens, we review watches that have been around for over a decade - or long enough to feel ubiquitous - and ask ourselves whether they have managed to stand the test of time. We’ll address whether they’re still relevant, how they feel today, and, ultimately, if they’re worth their current […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Explorer Ref. 114270 to read the full article.

A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands Mar 4, 2024

A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review

With the launch of the latest white dial Speedmaster around the corner, we’ve dug into our archives to bring back our review of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Almost 5 years on, it still stands up well! Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past! A Bit Of History The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games.  The classic design cues of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from be...

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Feb 27, 2024

Tissot PR516 Chronograph Review

Founded in 1853 in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a vast and diverse collection of timepieces, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board. Throughout its history, and starting as early as 1938, when a Tissot watch was used to time a series of Alpine ski races, Tissot has also been a watchmaker with close ties to sports - from tennis’s Davis Cup in 1957, to its close timing partnerships with bicycling and motorcycling championships from the 1980s to today, to its recent high-profile status as official timing partner of the NBA. And while Tissot is probably not the first brand that leaps to mind when you think of motorsports-inspired timepieces, it was indisputably one of the pioneers of that genre, a style most clearly and boldly expressed in the PR516 collection, a mainstay of the Tissot portfolio that has undergone a significant, vintage-inspired refresh in 2024.  Tissot’s association with motor racing, and the seed from which the original PR 516 (originally spelled with a space between letters and numerals, and later hyphenated) would spring, began with what was essentially a fan letter from a satisfied customer. In 1958, Tissot received a signed photograph from a Swiss racing driver named Harry Zweifel, which was accompanied by a note in German that read, “Meine Tissot ist an jedem Rennen dabei,” or “My Tissot is ...

The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” Fratello
Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” Even Feb 26, 2024

The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit”

Even when something is objectively better, it could still be subjectively worse. I’m sure you can think of an example, be it cars, hi-fi equipment, boats, or watches, of course. When I had an unexpected encounter with the Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit,” all kinds of thoughts went through my head. Yes, the current “Sub” is […] Visit The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” to read the full article.

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon SJX Watches
Urwerk inspired Project 1 Barrelhand Feb 22, 2024

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon

Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1  mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...