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Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Is Less Than A Month Away! Worn & Wound
Apr 7, 2024

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Is Less Than A Month Away!

We are now officially less than one month away from our very first Windup Watch Fair of the year, and it’s shaping up to be one for the books. Our three fairs each year in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York bring thousands of people together. Not only is it a chance for consumers and brands to connect; it is a wonderful opportunity for our community to gather, enjoy new products, and share a unique experience. Learn more about the events here. We are now officially less than one month away from our very first Windup Watch Fair of the year, and it’s shaping up to be one for the books. Our three fairs each year in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York bring thousands of people together. Not only is it a chance for consumers and brands to connect; it is a wonderful opportunity for our community to gather, enjoy new products, and share a unique experience. Learn more about the events here. The post Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Is Less Than A Month Away! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Christopher Ward s C1 Moonphase Apr 5, 2024

What’s in the (Watch) Box?

Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss are back with another video in which they attempt to surprise each other with some watches they’ve never seen before in this new unboxing video. Today, the range of watches includes recent releases from brands large and small, old favorites and new. Zach Kazan is particularly taken with Christopher Ward’s C1 Moonphase (a watch he’ll have a more thorough evaluation of soon) and Zach Weiss is equally impressed with Rado’s recent Anatom (which is discussed further here). Also of note in this episode: a lot of the packaging is top notch, with Peren’s unique “flat pack” design inviting the owner to put the watch together immediately after opening it. The post What’s in the (Watch) Box? appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Anton Suhanov Unveils the Chronotope and the Inventive Su200.10 SJX Watches
Apr 5, 2024

Anton Suhanov Unveils the Chronotope and the Inventive Su200.10

One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner. Initial thoughts Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers. The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing. Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic. The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case. ...

Introducing – The New Hanhart Austrian Air Force AW169M Limited Edition Monochrome
Apr 5, 2024

Introducing – The New Hanhart Austrian Air Force AW169M Limited Edition

Hanhart was established in Switzerland in 1882 and relocated to Germany in 1902, positioning itself as a formidable competitor to the pricey Swiss-made stopwatches. It became successful by offering timing devices of comparable quality at a more accessible price point. A significant milestone occurred in 1938 with the development of the Caliber 40 mono-pusher chronograph […]

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Apr 3, 2024

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for

Since it hit the market less than a decade ago, the Rado Captain Cook has rapidly built an avid following among watch enthusiasts while also casting a brighter spotlight on its parent brand, which had previously been known more for avant-garde, fashion-oriented timepieces than vintage-look, sport-focused ones. Eyeing one of these retro-stylish and accessibly priced divers as your next watch purchase? Here is what you need to know about the Rado Captain Cook collection. The Brand Behind the Captain: Rado History Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements but eventually found success as a watch producer in 1957 with the launch of the Rado brand (the name means “wheel” in Esperanto) and its first timepiece, the Rado Golden Horse, one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. The company followed it up in 1962 with the futuristic DiaStar model (below) - touted as “the world’s first scratch-proof watch” and recognized as the first commercially available “ceramic watch” - which was groundbreaking in its use of hardmetal and sapphire glass for increased scratch-resistance.  The DiaStar ushered in Rado’s modern credo of exploring the most avant-garde, high-tech materials for ideal comfort and durability in its wat...

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years Fratello
Omega introduced Apr 2, 2024

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years

Five years ago, Omega introduced the last limited-edition Speedmaster models. Who would have thought? After a good ~25 years of introducing many different Speedmaster limited editions, sometimes even more than one per year, the brand just stopped. Well, not entirely, of course, because although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary […] Visit The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years to read the full article.

First Look – Hamilton Expands its Sporty Jazzmaster Performer Collection with 9 New References Monochrome
Hamilton Expands Apr 1, 2024

First Look – Hamilton Expands its Sporty Jazzmaster Performer Collection with 9 New References

Released about a year ago, the Jazzmaster Performer collection was Hamilton’s answer for a range of all-rounder, go-anywhere do-anything modern sporty watches. Mostly known for its connection with cinema and its successful vintage/military-inspired watches, the Performer was of a different breed. Sportier, more dynamic, more modern overall and yet sleek, it made a good impression […]

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko comes Apr 1, 2024

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around

I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites.  The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...

Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s Fratello
Hamilton Yorktowne From Mar 30, 2024

Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s

Since 2024 began, I have wanted nothing more than a chance to talk and laugh with my grandfather again. This year is the 18th since his passing, which was also half of my life ago now. Perhaps because of that, I feel as if I could finally comprehend and appreciate all of his insight and […] Visit Remembering My Grandfather Through His Watches: Part 1 - An Elgin 6703E And Hamilton Yorktowne From The Early ’40s to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s Fratello
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 28, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s

The speed at which Christopher Ward releases new watches is impressive. But it’s even more impressive that the brand maintains a certain level of variety that keeps every release fresh. There’s truly something for everyone in Christopher Ward’s rapidly expanding collection. The newest creation from the CW kitchens is the C63 Valour. This quartz timepiece […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s to read the full article.

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph Fratello
Mar 28, 2024

Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph

The style and fashion trends of the 1960s can mostly only be described as regrettable in these times of image consciousness and scrutiny on social media. Fashion faux pas like bell-bottomed trousers, tie-dye, and platform shoes have caused more than a slight blush to the cheeks of those who championed them back in the Swinging […] Visit Bear Essentials: The Enduring Panda-Dial Chronograph to read the full article.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part II SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – Mar 26, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part II

Having explored the origins of the Ulysse Nardin Freak, from its concept by Carole Forestier Kasapi to its realisation by Dr Ludwig Oechslin, we now turn to the Freak’s more recent innovations, starting with the Dual Ulysse Escapement. [This story explains the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement of the Freak. Part I, covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and innovative escapement. Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] A new and improved version of the Dual Direct escapement in the original 2001 Freak, the Dual Ulysse made its debut in 2005 inside the Freak 28’000 V/H, colloquially known as the Freak 2. Slightly larger than the original model but otherwise very similar, the Freak 2 operated at 28,000 beats per hour (4 Hz), a higher frequency than the 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) of the original Freak. One of the factors which made possible the increase in frequency was the revised escapement christened the Dual Ulysse Escapement. A diagram showing the key parts of the Dual Ulysse Escapement. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Dual Ulysse Escapement Another creation of Dr Oechslin’s, the Dual Ulysse departs from the classical natural escapement à la Breguet that the original Dual Direct Escapement was based on, but it still bears some resemblance to its...

Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection Fratello
Mar 26, 2024

Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection

I have enjoyed reviewing several Sternglas releases over the past couple of years. Mostly, they were stylish Bauhaus-inspired timepieces in black and white, which were good examples of the popular minimalist design philosophy. However, the Hamburg-based brand has not hesitated to add more colorful timepieces to its collection. The latest example is the new Sternglas […] Visit Sternglas Adds The Colorful New Lumatik To Its Expanding Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph Fratello
Mar 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph

In racing, the combination of orange with black or blue is famous. While it is not unique to the racing world, many people immediately associate the two. Sure, we have seen many more colors in the past, but to me, orange and blue ooze racing class. The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph celebrates its racing style […] Visit Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph to read the full article.

Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option Worn & Wound
Longines Updates Mar 25, 2024

Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option

Last year, Longines had something of an unexpected hit with their HydroConquest GMT. The dive watch with the “flyer” L844.5 caliber was much discussed in enthusiast circles, and I have my own personal theory as to why. For years, Longines has excelled at being expert curators of their own back catalog, releasing a seemingly never ending string of well considered vintage reissues important releases from their past. They never stopped making watches in a more contemporary style, but they kind of dropped out of focus in recent years. The HydroConquest overhaul, then, was somewhat unexpected, and really stood out in their collection. And it was just weird enough to set itself apart from a market full of divers that kind of all look alike. Now, less than a year after the new HydroConquest saw the light of day, Longines has added new additions to the collection, which surprise in another way altogether.  Announced last week, Longines now makes the HydroConquest GMT in a new larger size, with a case coming in at 43mm. When I saw the press release for this watch, I did a double take. Was there a typo here somewhere? The trend in recent years, Rolex notwithstanding, has been for brands to downsize their sport models to a more universally accepted “medium” size. Think anywhere between 38-40mm. With last year’s HydroConquest GMT coming in at 41mm, I’d have bet the lion’s share of my watch fund that the next iteration of this watch would be somewhere in that sub 40mm ra...

Book Review: The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking SJX Watches
Mar 25, 2024

Book Review: The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking

The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking. By Adriano Ramos Passarelli. Independently published; US$34.90 in paperback, US$28.90 in e-book format. Self published by a watch aficionado turned watchmaker, The Obscure Illustrated Glossary of Watchmaking is not an entirely accurate title. It is certainly more useful than the title implies. The book is a comprehensive and helpful – and includes obscure terms – with information presented in a clear, accessible manner. In fact, the glossary is wide ranging enough to be useful for enthusiasts who are reasonably knowledgeable, no doubt due to the author’s background. Based in Brazil and an architect by training, Mr Passarelli began as a watch enthusiast before joining the watch industry. Starting with journalism, Mr Passarelli then joined a service centre for Swiss brands as a manager, and finally arriving at the bench as a watchmaker in 2020. His breadth of knowledge – and certainly his interest in watches – is evident in the book, a project he has been working on part-time for over a decade. The book was first published in Portuguese and this is the first English edition. Traditional terms like anglage and PlexiGlas are found inside, but also trade names like Chronergy, Diashield, and KIF. In fact, the book even includes words that would be obscure to almost anyone but a watchmaker, including Rodico, Witschi, and Vibrograf. Importantly, most definitions smartly include the equivalent term in French, the working la...