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Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Aug 18, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus

The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...

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Color Rules the Day with the New Art Dial Detrolas from Shinola Worn & Wound
Fears have recently released pieces Aug 17, 2026

Color Rules the Day with the New Art Dial Detrolas from Shinola

With generative AI slop permeating even our most sacred of artistic spaces these days (don’t Google “AI in museums”, it will ruin your day), any honest-to-god expression of creativity can feel like a breath of fresh air. Watches can be a great escape in this regard, and watchmakers, from industry heavy hitters like Swatch to beloved microbrands like Fears, have recently released pieces inspired by aesthetic movements to bring a little bit of artistic integrity to your wrist. Detroit-based watch brand Shinola is throwing their hat in the multi-colored ring with two new vibrant models in their Detrola collection, inspired by the annals of American midcentury art, and at a price point that should appeal to many. Let’s take a gander.  The Detrola line is Shinola’s premier “pop” collection, featuring colorways that are a little bolder than the usual fare. With a clean field-dress design ethos, each Detrola watch comes in at 41mm in case diameter, making them ideal for everyday wear. Materials vary across the lineup, and the two new Color Theory models both feature polished cream TR90 resin co-molded with a stainless steel core. A thickness of 9.72mm keeps the watches slim on the wrist, and while the longer lugs add a bit of presence, giving the models a 45mm lug-to-lug width and allowing for 20mm straps. It’s a simple silhouette that allows the dial design to set the pace aesthetically, which works in the Color Theory models’ favor.  Each of the two models s...

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Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

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Recommended Reading: ERG’s “Grand Seiko” Book Is How Modern Brand Books Should Be Done Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Book Aug 17, 2026

Recommended Reading: ERG’s “Grand Seiko” Book Is How Modern Brand Books Should Be Done

Over the past few weeks, I've been taking a slightly overdue look through a backlog of recent acquisitions for my library. As I pointed out recently in a story on Taschen's "Ultimate Collector Watches," buying more books scratches the knowledge-acquisition part of my brain while saving me from writing a check the watch-collector side of my brain can't cash. Yes, I already have a few bins full of books lying around, and piles around the living room. But New York apartment sizes be damned, I'm acquiring more books. I recently had a spinal fusion and, while I'm recovering just fine, I'm still sorting out how to photograph watches without bending or twisting for a few months. All the books in my backlog are under 10 pounds (just barely), so my doctor can't get mad at me for lifting. So I'm going to turn this into a short weekly column to go through some books I have that deserve coverage. And the first one I picked up (both originally a few months back and again, for this column) was the succinctly titled and gorgeously produced "Grand Seiko" by ERG Media published earlier this year. As an official Grand Seiko-approved product, everything carries the brand's (often exacting) seal of approval. But it's also anything but a sanitized and soulless look at a brand's heritage and history. Instead, "Grand Seiko" weaves a beautiful look at watches and watchmaking with Japan's culture and landscape, and Grand Seiko's New York flagship. But first, you've got to appreciate the packaging....

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The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over Fratello
Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Aug 16, 2026

The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over

Ask me about my current favorite Citizen models, and I’ll quickly point to the brand’s Series 8 watches. It’s Citizens’ collection of modern mechanical watches that falls somewhere between the high-end “The Citizen” line and the brand’s affordable offerings. The Series 8 collection was unveiled in 2021, and two years later, the brand added the […] Visit The Citizen Series 8 880 GMT Turns You Into a Local, Twice Over to read the full article.

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Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal WatchRider
Seiko Time Sonar Casio has Aug 16, 2026

Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal

The upcoming Casio MTP-E740-4AV and MTP-E740-2A1V are vintage-inspired watches launching soon for just £85. Proving that budget-friendly watches don’t have to be boring, these new releases feature a stunning see-through dial design that punches well above its price bracket. A Striking Translucent Dial Design The standout feature of the new MTP-E740 series is undoubtedly its dial. Drawing heavy inspiration from the classic 1970s Seiko Time Sonar, Casio has incorporated a transparent face that reveals the mechanical day and date wheels underneath.   Usually, entry-level Casio day-date models hide this calendar mechanism behind a solid face. By exposing it, Casio gives these models a playful, layered, and premium look that is rarely seen at this price point.   The Standout Models: Orange and Navy While the collection features several colors, two models steal the show:  MTP-E740-4AV (Orange):   if you want a watch that immediately catches the eye, the MTP-E740-4AV is the undisputed star of the collection. The bright orange colorway perfectly complements the retro-futuristic transparent dial, giving the watch a summery, high-energy feel. Orange dials have historically been associated with dive watches and motorsport chronographs, but putting it on an everyday stainless steel piece gives it a remarkably fresh vibe.  The bright, vibrant orange dial is an absolute head-turner. It provides a bold contrast against the stainless steel case and makes the exposed cal...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs Casio Aug 16, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200

With the summer break still in full swing, it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In today’s match-up, two watches that could have easily made for your perfect affordable summer watch. But that would also be selling them short, because they are great for daily wear at a friendly price. Daan’s pick this week is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 to read the full article.

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Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic Fratello
Aug 15, 2026

Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic

My first encounter with CIGA Design was with its Blue Planet model. In 2021, it won the Challenge Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which obviously gave it some proper traction. Although CIGA Design has been producing watches since 2016, I’d say 2021 was really a turning point for the Shenzhen-based […] Visit Tried And Tested: The CIGA Design Hunter Titanium Skeleton Automatic to read the full article.

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Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026] Hodinkee
Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Aug 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour At One Vanderbilt [August 2026]

Earlier this week, we spiced things up a little by taking Hodinkee Happy Hour uptown to the Vandy Club. Before heading to the event space, guests arrived at the Watches of Switzerland One Vanderbilt showroom, where they were greeted by our Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys, and other members of the Hodinkee team. This gave several attendees the chance to be featured in a quick Wrist Check we filmed, which you can check out now on the Hodinkee Instagram. It was our first time hosting at One Vanderbilt, but the same energy and enthusiasm quickly filled the room (and outdoor terrace). Hors d'oeuvres—and plenty of watches—made the rounds as an evening of great conversation unfolded. Scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night. If you made it out, thanks for coming. For anyone who couldn't make it, be sure to keep an eye here on the site and on the Hodinkee Instagram for more information, as we will be announcing our next one soon! Left, Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys admiring an attendee's 2002 Omega Seamaster Professional Chrono Diver. Zenith Chronometer Open 1969 Boutique Édition. A closer look. A 42mm Tudor Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale MN21 in titanium. A Rolex Oyster Precision Reference 6426. The Hermès H08 Limited Edition for Hodinkee. Left, Hodinkee Head of Video David Aujero chatting with chef Jayesh Kumar. From top to bottom: the Tudor Black Bay 58 Nike employee edition with a custom band and an Omega Speedmaster 50th Anniversary. A closer look at the Omega Sp...

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[Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made Fratello
Formex Aria Aug 14, 2026

[Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made

Formex may be a relatively young name in Swiss watchmaking, but the brand has already made a name for itself thanks to its unique approach. Founded in 1999 and based in Biel, Formex has built its identity around combining mechanical watchmaking with engineering-led solutions. Its watches are known for features such as the patented Case […] Visit [Video] Extreme Watchmaking Revealed: The Formex Aria And How It’s Made to read the full article.

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The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s Fratello
Rolex Models From Aug 14, 2026

The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s

Friday is here, which means it’s time for another list! This week, we follow up on a discussion we had on Fratello Talks two weeks ago. In that episode, Robert-Jan, Nacho, and I discussed the ultimate decade for watches. RJ and I chose the nineties as our favorite decade for watches because new technology significantly […] Visit The Top 5 Rolex Models From The 1990s to read the full article.

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Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Monochrome
Meistersinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue Aug 14, 2026

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Edition Unitas 1Z Blue

For 25 years, MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand watches encouraged a more relaxed perception of time, focusing on the broader flow of the day rather than its smallest divisions. Earlier this year, the German brand presented the Edition Unitas 1Z, a limited anniversary model that revived the original 2004 Edition 1Z, its first watch to feature a […]

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Seiko Revisits the 1913 Laurel With New Enamel and Urushi Presage Models HCC005 and HCC006 WatchRider
Seiko Revisits Aug 13, 2026

Seiko Revisits the 1913 Laurel With New Enamel and Urushi Presage Models HCC005 and HCC006

Seiko has introduced two new Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship watches that return to one of the most important designs in its history. The HCC005J1 uses a handmade white enamel dial while the HCC006J1 takes a darker route with black Urushi lacquer and a yellow-gold-coloured case. Both were announced on 13 August 2026 and are scheduled to reach Seiko boutiques and selected retailers in September 2026. These are not simple colour changes. Each model uses a traditional Japanese dial technique and each has its own character. The white version is the clearer tribute to Seiko’s original Laurel wristwatch from 1913. The black model keeps the same basic layout but changes the mood completely through lacquer, gold details and a warm case finish. A Return to the 1913 Laurel The Laurel is important because it was Japan’s first wristwatch. Its white enamel dial, expressive Arabic numerals and red 12 became a clear visual signature. Seiko has used those details before, but the HCC005J1 brings them together in a convincing modern package. The red numeral at 12 immediately catches the eye while the curved black numerals and blue hands keep the design easy to recognise. The new watches also add a 24-hour display at six o’clock. It gives the dial a little more depth without disturbing the balance of the numerals. This is not an independently adjustable second-time-zone function. It follows the main time and shows whether the watch is indicating the first or second half of the day...

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Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé Monochrome
Albishorn Marinagraph Classic Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - Round Two of the Albishorn Marinagraph Classic and Classic Fumé

Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]

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Introducing - IWC Celebrates 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz With A Special Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Proset Monochrome
Ming together Aug 13, 2026

Introducing - IWC Celebrates 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz With A Special Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Proset

Two companies, at the forefront of mechanical innovation, coming together to mark 140 years of history – that’s what IWC’s latest watch is all about. The brand has a long-standing partnership with Mercedes-Benz, exemplified through not only the Mercedes-Benz AMG PETRONAS Formula 1 Team special editions, but also through the various road-car-themed watches. The new […]

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Seiko’s Latest Presage is a Handsome Surprise SJX Watches
Breguet style numerals Aug 13, 2026

Seiko’s Latest Presage is a Handsome Surprise

The Presage is Seiko’s line of affordable dress watches that boasts impressive diversity, but there can be too much of a good thing; sometimes it’s difficult to distinguish one Presage model from another. The fresh-off-the-press Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel (HCC005) and Urushi (HCC006) are a pair of appealing watches, especially the striking HCC006 with its black and gold livery, which might be one of the best looking Presage watches ever. The HCC005 in enamel Initial thoughts The HCC006 caught my eye as soon as I saw it; the high-contrast colours set it apart from all other Presage models. It’s a strong proposition for anyone looking for an affordable dress watch that isn’t in the typical, conservative pale colours. Moreover, the Breguet-style numerals in gold powder lacquer add a degree of refinement rarely found in watches at this price. The only downside of the HCC006 is the gold plated case. Though it adds to the look, I generally dislike plated cases since they feel inexpensive. That said, given the accessible price, it’s forgivable. The HCC005 with an enamel dial is similarly good value, but less interesting visually as it’s similar to past Presage models. It is, however, a good, low-key alternative to the black and gold of the HCC006. The HCC006 with an urushi dial Artisanal craft for less The new pair stick to the familiar template of the Presage Craftsmanship series – making traditional artisanal crafts affordable. As is conven...

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Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 As Aug 13, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357

As it undergoes a late-in-life rejuvenation, Breguet has been steadily updating models long in its catalogue, including its range of tourbillon watches. The Classique Tourbillon 7357 is the long overdue evolution of the 3350/3357 that was introduced way back in 1989. Upgraded inside and out, the 7357 is the new entry-level offering amongst Breguet’s tourbillon watches, but it is now more obviously haute horlogerie with a new look and a new(ish) movement. The details and finishing of the 7357 illustrate Breguet’s manufacturing quality, despite being based on a model from three decades ago. The 7357 is available in Breguet gold or platinum (pictured here) Initial thoughts The 7357 is essentially the 3357, upgraded in every respect. Even though the watch pictured is a prototype, and not perfectly clean, the improvements in finishing, materials, and construction are obvious. Compared to the competition, the 3357 was arguably out of date even 20 years ago; in contrast, the 7357 is competitive. The decoration has jumped several steps upwards, which is most visible on the front with a refined tourbillon bridge. While the movement architecture is based on the Lemania cal. 387 of the 3350/3357, it now boasts a longer power reserve and non-magnetic hairspring amongst other upgrades. Like many of the other facelifted Breguet models, the 7357 adopts a new look but one that’s still recognisably Breguet – a gentle diversification away from the established Breguet wristwatch styl...

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Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Worn & Wound
Aug 12, 2026

Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain

Bernhardt’s Captain collection is a new range of dress watches that I think loosely falls in the Calatrave-esque trend that has been emerging, most notably through a variety of Japanese indies and micros, over the last few years. As interest in chunky divers and sports watches appears to wane a bit, enthusiasts are (finally) willing to look at watches in other genres, and brands are delivering with a variety of takes on the dress watch format.  This is a fundamentally good thing for the community, but it’s not easy to make a dress watch. It is, conversely, very easy to attempt to make a dress watch and actually make a regular old daily driver, the type of watch that most people who had any desire to wear any watch at all would have owned in the middle part of the 20th century.    $749 Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Silver Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap leather Water Resistance 50 Dimensions 38 x 45mm Thickness 9.55mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty yes Price $749 A dress watch, to me, is a very specific thing. If it’s mechanical, it’s manually wound. It’s more likely to not have a seconds hand, and indices and other markings should be minimal. It obviously should be quite thin and relatively small in size, and if I were really being a snob about it, I’d insist it should be in a precious metal, but I’m not a snob and that’s ridiculous. It does speak, though, to the idea that when you use the word “d...

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Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces Aug 12, 2026

Brew Introduces the Limited Edition Retrograph Stone Blend

Just last week, I wrote about the stone dial trend and how it’s all getting just a little tiresome. And while I certainly stand by my position, we have to acknowledge and accept that there will continue to be stone dial watches announced and released while the trend continues (or peters out) that are interesting and worth covering. Being able to hold two conflicting ideas in your head at the same time is an essential piece of being an adult, after all, and certainly it matters in the watch world as well, and is something we do all the time (we know buying watches is an objectively bad financial decision, we do it anyway, etc.).  With that being said, Brew has introduced a new watch with a stone dial that I think is actually very nice and not part of the crop of stone dial watches that we’ve seen as of late that appear to be haphazardly slapped together for the sake of capitalizing on an opportunity. The new Retrograph Stone Blend Automatic is a new limited edition featuring a pietersite stone dial inspired by the signature visual element of coffee culture: the moment when milk is poured into a coffee and begins to swirl and blend together.  Specifically, Brew says that the Stone Blend is meant to conjure the patterns created as milk is added to cold brew coffee, which of course is often served in a translucent glass that allows one to see the two liquids come together in a sometimes dramatic way. Who hasn’t been transfixed by this at one point or another? Pietersit...

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Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity Fratello
Aug 12, 2026

Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity

Grøne introduces the Horologium, a new manual-winding timepiece available in two different versions, “Something Quirky” and “Something Classic.” Both watches come in a 39mm stainless steel case and feature small seconds, a Swiss-made manual-winding movement by La Joux-Perret, a 60-hour power reserve, and 5 ATM of water resistance. Limited to 188 pieces per version, the […] Visit Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity to read the full article.

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Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic Fratello
Wolbrook Aug 12, 2026

Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic

It’s always nice when you run into an old acquaintance. A few years ago, I spent quite a bit of time on the Wolbrook website, as I really liked the brand’s Tropic-style rubber straps. To me, they were the perfect combination in terms of material and looks. During those visits, the brand’s watches caught my […] Visit Budget-Friendly With Vintage Charm: The Updated Wolbrook Skindiver 38 Automatic to read the full article.

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First Look - The Seiko Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series x Aug 12, 2026

First Look - The Seiko Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1

Since its international relaunch in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection, for decades available only to Japanese customers, has become the brand’s showcase of the country’s traditional aesthetics and craftsmanship, offering enamel, porcelain, and urushi-lacquer dials. The recently introduced Presage Classic Series comprise vintage-inspired everyday watches, and the new Seiko Presage Classic is created with Tradman’s […]

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Swatch Marks Spain’s Total Solar Eclipse With a 24-Hour MoonSwatch Mission to the Sun Solar Eclipse SSX01J100-1 WatchRider
Swatch Aug 12, 2026

Swatch Marks Spain’s Total Solar Eclipse With a 24-Hour MoonSwatch Mission to the Sun Solar Eclipse SSX01J100-1

Swatch has created a new version of the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission to the Sun for Spain’s total solar eclipse on 12 August 2026. Called Mission to the Sun Solar Eclipse, reference SSX01J100-1, the watch is available only in Spain and only for 24 hours on the day of the eclipse. Online purchases are limited to three watches per person. The watch is reference SSX01J100-1 and was offered exclusively in Spain for 24 hours. Image: Swatch. A small change with a clear eclipse connection This is not a completely new MoonSwatch. It uses the familiar Mission to the Sun colour scheme with a bright yellow Bioceramic case, white tachymeter bezel and white rubber strap. The gold-coloured dial has a sun-brushed finish, while white hands and hour markers keep the display easy to read. Orange hands add contrast to the chronograph seconds and the three white subdials. The Solar Eclipse edition keeps the yellow and white Mission to the Sun colour scheme. Image: Swatch. The important new detail is the black chronograph pusher at two o’clock. The lower pusher remains yellow, so the dark upper button stands out immediately. It represents the Moon moving in front of the Sun during totality. Swatch has changed only one control, but that contrast gives the watch a direct link to the event without covering the dial in extra text or graphics. The black upper pusher represents the Moon covering the Sun during the total eclipse. Image: Swatch. The new moon appears on the back The other change i...

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Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph WatchRider
Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow Aug 11, 2026

Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph

Seiko has returned to the world of Initial D with a new chronograph dedicated to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow Mazda RX-7 FD3S. The model continues the manga’s 30th-anniversary celebrations after the earlier Takumi Fujiwara AE86 watch. Orders opened in Japan in early August 2026, while deliveries are scheduled to begin in late January 2027. Production is limited to 1,995 individually numbered watches, matching the year Initial D began serialization. The connection is immediately clear. This is not a standard Seiko with a small logo added to the dial. The complete colour scheme and several smaller details come from Keisuke’s car, while the official campaign artwork places the watch beside the driver and his RX-7. The Initial D collaboration links the Seiko chronograph directly to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow RX-7 FD3S. Image: PREMICO. The yellow RX-7 on the wrist The bright yellow dial copies the most recognizable feature of Keisuke’s RX-7. A black tachymeter bezel provides strong contrast and gives the chronograph a clear motorsport look. Three black subdials use red markings inspired by the illuminated instruments inside the car. The RedSuns team name appears at three o’clock beside the Seiko logo, while the Initial D symbol is placed inside the lower subdial. The yellow dial, red instrument-style subdials and RedSuns logo refer to Keisuke’s RX-7. Image: PREMICO. One of the best details sits at 12 o’clock. Instead of a normal hour marker, Seiko uses a t...

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Fears Retires the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour with the ‘Ultimus’ Edition: an Appreciation of a Modern Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module Aug 11, 2026

Fears Retires the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour with the ‘Ultimus’ Edition: an Appreciation of a Modern Classic

Fears made some news this week not only with a new release, but also the announcement that one of their signature watches is being retired. The new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’ is, somewhat surprisingly, the last version of the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour. Now, it stands to reason that Fears will not completely abandon the Jump Hour format. This platform has been incredibly popular for the brand, and seems to be a fount of creative opportunity for their design team and collaborators. Still, the appropriately named Ultimus is the end of a chapter, and it seems like a good opportunity to reflect on a watch that I’ve personally come to enjoy quite a bit in my own collection.  But first, let’s break down the Ultimus. This is a collaboration with Andew Morgan, the UK based watch content creator, and features the same 40.5mm stainless steel case and Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module (on a Sellita SW200 base movement) as every other Jump Hour Fears has made (well, almost every one – we’ll get to a few exceptions momentarily). What differentiates this edition, of course, is the dial execution. Typically, the Jump Hour is loaded with negative space. The Fears version of this complication features a small interior minutes track with an hour aperture at the top, and ample space within and without that circle that becomes a venue for an eye-catching color or an interesting material. It’s an inherently spare design, which I think is part of the appeal.  The U...

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