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Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance Quill & Pad
Jan 28, 2021

Ulysse Collin: Grower Champagnes With Serious Elegance

It seems only appropriate that such a fascinating champagne Grower as Ulysse Collin has an even more fascinating backstory. David heading toward toppling a sparkling Goliath. For well over 200 years, since 1812, the Collin family had worked vineyards in the region and for a century of that time also worked as coopers. The family vineyards were first lost, then recovered, and now the firm goes from strength to strength, slowly but surely building the crown as king of the Grower movement.

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video) Quill & Pad
De Bethune DB Kind Jan 26, 2021

De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure (Plus Video)

There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph Jan 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings Time+Tide
Jan 23, 2021

Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings

DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as … ContinuedThe post Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review Pros Jan 21, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review

Pros: El Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th of a second chronographTri-coloured dials add a touch of class Rolex Ceramic Daytona anyone? Cons: Some may find it heavy on the wrist after a long period of wearTo change links have to unscrew using two screwdriversSome may not appreciate the monochromatic oscillating weight Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Zenith has shown great success during the LVMH Watch Week 2020 in Dubai, which is why alongside other LVMH brands, they are now releasing their latest watches in a one-week online event. Zenith will put together a special presentation that is a mix of digital and physical representations to showcase the latest timepieces.  Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 One of these latest models to leave the Zenith Manufacture is the new Chronomaster Sport. For Zenith, 2021 has been dubbed the year of the Chronomaster. The focus of the LVMH week for Zenith will of course then be on this latest Chronomaster Sport release, which features an evolved version of the El Primero movement, now being able to allow for 1/10th of a second measurement!  Zenith CEO Julien Tornare spoke about the importance of LVMH event and also Chronomaster by stating that “My team and I are thrilled to finally be able to share with you something we’ve been working on for quite some time – a true evolution of a mod...

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was Jan 21, 2021

Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep

There’s a strong argument that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first real diver’s watch of its kind… and that’s because it was. It’s also true that the Rolex Submariner, which was also released in 1953, but after the Fathoms, did borrow some stylistic cues from the Blancpain. However, if any one watchmaker can claim … ContinuedThe post Dive watch fundamentals – Why Rolex still wears the crown of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Jan 19, 2021

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review

Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it!  Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...

The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more Time+Tide
Tudor Rolex Jan 16, 2021

The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more

Sexy red details combined with vintage inspiration is a marriage made in horological heaven with all Big Box brands wanting in on the game. The market is chock-a-block with slim, tough divers that emulate the discrete tools of the fifties and sixties, and we can’t seem to get enough of them. Me? Guilty as charged. … ContinuedThe post The Seiko x Neighborhood dive watch is awesome. Here are 5 watches that (maybe) inspired it including Tudor, Rolex and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Jan 14, 2021

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist…

Conor McGregor is a larger-than-life personality within the world of MMA. When you’re as successful as the “The Notorious” Irishman, you can not only afford to strut your stuff in the manner he does, but also spend ludicrous sums of money on watches. Yesterday, McGregor shared a window into his extraordinary life, filming his visit … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02 SJX Watches
Ming Jan 14, 2021

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02

An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...

Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets… Time+Tide
Rolex s hidden secrets… Most Jan 13, 2021

Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets…

Most owners of a platinum Rolex would be fearful of tampering with such an insanely valuable watch. One false move, after all, could eventuate in scratching away thousands of dollars of value from that frightfully expensive platinum Oyster bracelet. But Jack Wong is not most owners. The Singapore-based collector – whose stunning array of watches … ContinuedThe post Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like? Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Jan 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like?

H. Moser & Cie. is a watch brand and manufacturer known for having fun and exploring a wide spectrum of colours and materials to fabricate their creations. But now they are taking a moment to get serious through a gorgeous green duo of timepieces. The new H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer Collection is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance SJX Watches
Jan 8, 2021

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance

After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 7, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio

After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jan 4, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

While the L.U.C XP is best known as Chopard’s pared-back, formal-dress wristwatch, it also forms the base for an interesting collection of limited-edition timepieces decorated in urushi and maki-e, forms of traditional Japanese lacquer – an East Asian take on the metiers d’art often found in Swiss watchmaking. The latest addition to the line its most unusual to date, being not just a decorative expression but also a new, albeit simple, complication. Decorated in lacquer and gold dust, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen has a mechanism displaying traditional Chinese time of 12-hour days, with each hour represented by an animal of the Chinese Zodiac. Initial thoughts Watches inspired by Chinese culture are common – and increasing given the strength of demand for watches in China – but they oftentimes have an over-the-top aesthetic. Chopard, on the other hand, incorporated the Chinese motifs elegantly, resulting in an appealing watch. At a distance, the Spirit of Shí Chen has a simple, geometric style, but up close the dial reveals its decorative details. The deep-black lacquer dial – sprinkled with gold dust that evoke the cosmos – gives the watch a clean, restrained appearance, save for the elaborate, solid-gold frame and shí chen indicator. An ancient way of telling time is uncommon in a modern watch, making the shí chen indicator the highlight – appropriately enough it is rendered in gold powder and fine detail, with a gold-dusted background tha...

GaryG’s Year In Review 2020: Trends, Notable Watches, Favorite Photos, Plus Watches He Bought And Watches He’d Like To Buy (And You Might Consider) Quill & Pad
Jan 2, 2021

GaryG’s Year In Review 2020: Trends, Notable Watches, Favorite Photos, Plus Watches He Bought And Watches He’d Like To Buy (And You Might Consider)

GaryG meanders through some observations on the state of the industry, 2020 occurrences, and his own year in watches, including the watches he bought in 2020 and the watches he'd like to buy. And there are also his favorite photos from this year’s shooting interspersed to keep it lively. Enjoy!

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock SJX Watches
Jan 1, 2021

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock

A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...

Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005: 100% Grand Cru Vineyards Make For A Seamless New Prestige Champagne Quill & Pad
Dec 29, 2020

Henriot Cuvée Hemera 2005: 100% Grand Cru Vineyards Make For A Seamless New Prestige Champagne

Henriot is an interesting winemaker that often sneaks in under the radar, which is surprising as it produces champagnes of exquisite quality. The Henriot range comprises the NV Brut Souverain, an NV Blanc de Blancs, a Rosé, a vintage Brut, a vintage Rosé, the prestige champagne Hemera, and an outlier, Cuve 38. Ken Gargett pours himself a few glasses, reports here, and calls it a job well done.

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dec 27, 2020

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020

Twenty-twenty was a surprisingly good year in independent watchmaking – despite everything – with a fair number of compelling creations by watchmakers of all stripes. From Bernard Lederer at the top to Stefan Sarpaneva at the other end of the price spectrum, the watchmakers showed that the world of independent horology continued to turn in an abnormal year. Here’s a roundup of the best of 2020, led by the impressive and expensive, but also including the eminently affordable. In terms of pure technical achievement, Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is hard to top. Building on the work of George Daniels and Abraham Louis Breguet, Mr Lederer constructed a movement equipped with a double natural escapements, each with its own remontoir and powered by its own going train. While the design of the watch doesn’t do justice to the mechanics, the movement is outstanding. In fact, the only other watch in 2020 comparable to the Central Impulse Chronometer was surprisingly from an establishment brand, or more specifically a subsidiary of a big name, the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, which has Chopard as its parent comment. The movement of the Central Impulse Chronometer. Photo – Bernhard Lederer Also conceived with chronometry in mind, the new Chronomètre à Résonance movement is very much a new and improved version of the original, which has become the hallmark watch of F.P. Journe. Now featuring a remontoir d’egalite for each going train – which mea...

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona sell Dec 27, 2020

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m?

Nothing over $1 million can really be called a bargain. Particularly when it’s a mere wristwatch from the Swinging Sixties. Yet we all know the stratospheric values paid for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6241. The first one went for a mind-boggling and (then) world record $17.8 million USD back in 2017. Fast forward to the … ContinuedThe post Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos) Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2020

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos)

Peacocks on Quill & Pad? Well, if luxury is defined as an inessential, desirable item that is expensive or difficult to obtain, then peafowl surely fit the bill as well as any fine mechanical watch. Here Ian Skellern shares more than you are likely to ever need to know about free-ranging peacocks/peafowl, recounting his colorful journey to sharing a garden with Bonnie and Clyde along the way.

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Richard Mille … ContinuedThe Dec 25, 2020

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame

Basketball is back and not in the bubble! But while the players battle it out on the court, as always, an equally fascinating sideshow will also unfold for watch enthusiasts. That’s because the NBA is not only home to some of sport’s biggest superstars, but also some superstar watch collections. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, … ContinuedThe post From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut SJX Watches
Richard Mille s familiar case style. But Dec 21, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut

In a departure from its usual exuberant, Technicolor style, Franck Müller’s latest creation is slim, pared back, and monochromatic. An exclusive for its stores in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is a thin time-only watch entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a sleek, clean look. And priced a little under €10,000, it is also affordable as such things go. Initial thoughts While most of the Vanguard models feel derivative, or a bit much, the Line Cut seems just right in size, style, and price. It’s 41 mm wide, smallish by Franck Muller standards, and under 10 mm high, giving it the wide-but-thin proportions of many popular luxury-sports watches. And the pared-back look also extends to its colours and textures – the liberal use of sandblasted titanium is clean and suits the style, resulting in an aesthetic that’s both cohesive and attractive. But its water resistance is only 30 m, which is a bit less than typical for a sports watch. Not much was provided on the FM 708 movement inside, although the Franck Muller says it was developed specifically for this watch. Cintree Curvex Descended from Franck Muller’s signature Cintree Curvex tonneau-shaped watch, the Vanguard is a sports watch that does bear some resemblance to Richard Mille’s familiar case style. But the slimness of the Line Cut brings to mind instead the earliest watches of Franck Muller, which were mostly smaller and thinner than today’s models. The titanium case measures 41 mm by 50 mm, with a...

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal Quill & Pad
MB&F; Dec 20, 2020

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal

It’s no surprise that MB&F; would create a special limited series of Legacy Machines honoring Jules Verne and the type of retro-futurism found within his novels. Yet this project is also the artistic child of master engraver Eddy Jaquet who has worked with MB&F; for the last decade and was the driver behind the focus of each piece on and how to realize it. The results of these eight unique timepieces are simply spectacular.