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Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References Worn & Wound
Citizen Group who 7h ago

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands.  The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1 Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 8h ago

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1

About a year ago—or maybe two—I remember sitting in an Uber with Ben and some of the Hodinkee team as we drove down the Rue de Lausanne in Geneva, heading to Watches & Wonders. We had just grabbed a quick breakfast when Michael Friedman unexpectedly joined us. Yes, that Michael Friedman. The "AP, Michael Friedman, my friend's cooler" rap lyric guy. The guy who just so happened to have also formerly been a curator at the Willard House & Clock Museum and the National Watch & Clock Museum, Head of Watches at Christie's New York, a client advisor to people like Eric Clapton (during his pièce unique Patek years), and most recently the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. Okay, maybe you don't know Michael Friedman. But I knew him well and had some formative early-career experiences bumping into and getting to know him. I also knew he was working on a new brand, but had absolutely zero idea what it was. "It's wild," said Ben—or some approximation of that. "It's not so much a watch as a cuff, with a bunch of diamonds." What could that even mean? I had ideas in my head, but as they spiraled, they got further from the truth. As of a few months ago, we have the answer, and it's not what I had envisioned. The B-Theory Series 1 from Friedman's new brand Pattern Recognition is, as Ben said, far from a watch in most respects, but closer than I expected. Yes, it's jewelry. There are diamonds. And yet it's got the bona fides of technical watchmaking and connections with the pa...

First Look - Panerai Celebrates 100 Years in Florence with the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794 Monochrome
Panerai Celebrates 100 Years 9h ago

First Look - Panerai Celebrates 100 Years in Florence with the Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794

In 2026, Panerai celebrates 100 years of its boutique in Piazza San Giovanni, Florence. Originally opened in 1926 as “Orologeria Svizzera”, the boutique became an important part of the Panerai family’s history, a place where watches were sold but also assembled and repaired. The preserved location, reopened to the public in 2001 following the renovation, […]

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch Hodinkee
Rolex Collectors Watch If you've 10h ago

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch

If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026] Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Deep 12h ago

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [August 2026]

Two weeks ago, we managed to fit in one more Hodinkee Happy Hour before summer slips away. We gathered at the Watches of Switzerland store in SoHo, where friends old and new escaped the rain to enjoy an evening of good conversation, food from Upside Pizza, and beer from our local friends at Grotta. Despite the weather, the turnout—for both people and watches—did not disappoint. If you made it out that night, thank you for coming. Please note that the next Hodinkee Happy Hour won't be until October, so please keep an eye on the site and our Instagram for the October RSVPs. Until then, scroll through the photos below for a recap of the night and to see some cool watches. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, sporting a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition t-shirt.  A vintage Movado Triple Calendar. An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding with a blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial. A Sinn T50 titanium diving watch and a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with a black dial and contrasting subdials. F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve De Marche. From left to right: a Doxa Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee Limited Edition, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 with a "Patrizzi" dial from 1996, and a Grand Seiko. From top to bottom: a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator Ref. 5235G, a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Deep Stream," and an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15510 ST Green Dial from 2022. Rolex Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 "Arabic prototype." From top to bottom: the Rolex Zenith Dayto...

Introducing - The Latest Patria from Tutima; Grade 5 Titanium meets 18k Gold Monochrome
Tutima 12h ago

Introducing - The Latest Patria from Tutima; Grade 5 Titanium meets 18k Gold

While Tutima gained popularity thanks to its purposeful pilot watches, aviation-themed chronographs and robust adventure-driven collections, one of the brand’s lineups certainly stands apart from the rest and shouldn’t go unnoticed. A tribute to the German school of watchmaking and the manufacture’s roots, the Patria collection celebrates classic designs and in-house watchmaking, done the Glashütte way. Elegant, […]

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual 20h ago

Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs

For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor Yesterday

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

Girard-Perregaux (GP) is on the rebound after a few quiet years, and the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 mm is a compelling addition to the premium sports watch arena. Featuring an all-new automatic tourbillon calibre and expensively crafted dials — with optional grand feu enamel — the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon embodies the strides GP has taken to reposition itself in the industrial-haute horlogerie segment. Initial thoughts I tend to feel somewhat jaded about tourbillons squeezed into sports watches, but I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful execution of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, from its grand feu flinqué enamel dial to the (surprisingly) solid gold bridges of the all-new cal. GP8410. Moreover, the brand managed to maintain the nearly ideal proportions of the Laureato Fifty while adding a finely finished free-sprung tourbillon to the lower half of the dial. While the 39 mm format is familiar, the cal. GP8410 is one of four new automatic calibres the brand has introduced in roughly the past year, after the workhorse GP4800, the automatic minute repeating cal. GP9530, and the GP9620 with the brand’s emblematic “three gold bridges” architecture. The nearly simultaneous release of these four distinct platforms hints at the investment put into GP since the group’s management buyout in early 2022. Priced at almost exactly US$100,000, both variants of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon are positioned squarely against watches like the Vacheron Consta...

Introducing: Apple Announces The Apple Watch Series 12 And Apple Watch Ultra 4 (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Yesterday

Introducing: Apple Announces The Apple Watch Series 12 And Apple Watch Ultra 4 (Live Pics)

Hello from (rather warm) Cupertino, California. Yet another year has flown by, which means once again we continue our more than a decade-long tradition of taking an extremely brief pause from traditional watchmaking to see what's up with the newest editions of the most popular and widely adopted watches in the world. They just happen to be fully digital. And yes, another year of us unpacking what it truly means to be a watch in the comments section. If you're like me and also a tech nerd, you've undoubtedly been following the rumors recently ahead of the launch. It's the first launch event since John Ternus' succession to Tim Cook as Apple's new CEO, and while Ternus stepped into the role a week ago, eyes are undoubtedly peeled to see what the next generation of Apple's designs might entail. But most of the noise was on the rumored foldable iPhone, with very little attention being paid to Apple Watch. Last year's updates were largely subtle changes from a design perspective, mostly around new functionality and small visual improvements. Series 12 — What's New? In short, not much. Those of us (me included) may be disappointed that there isn't a new physical redesign, with the current generation of design language carrying forward and no major changes to speak of. The real changes are under the hood: a new Health Sensing System paired with the S11 chip now takes a heart rate reading every five seconds, all day, and measures HRV up to 24 times more often than before—numbe...

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References Yesterday

Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References

What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept.  All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...

The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist! Fratello
Yesterday

The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist!

Whenever I review a genuinely fascinating example of haute horlogerie, I’m constantly reminded that one never stops learning about watches. Yes, these wildly creative pieces make me feel like a neophyte. And so it is whenever I hold a David Candaux creation. The watches look like nothing else, yet they’re pleasingly tactile and meant to […] Visit The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist! to read the full article.

Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25 - 27, And I Think You Should Go Fratello
Yesterday

Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25 - 27, And I Think You Should Go

There’s a version of the watch calendar that only contains Geneva, and I understand the appeal of that version. It’s the one we see, read, and hear about on the regular. But some of the best days I’ve had around watches haven’t been in a fair hall at all. They’ve been at smaller, community-run events […] Visit Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25–27, And I Think You Should Go to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models Fratello
Louis Vuitton Expands Yesterday

Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models

Louis Vuitton is expanding the Tambour Spin Time collection with five new references, moving the latest generation of its distinctive jump-hour watch from limited editions into the permanent collection. The new watches retain the architecture introduced in 2025 but bring new colors, materials, gemstones, and a more varied set of executions. So, before your head […] Visit Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models to read the full article.

First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night Monochrome
Grand Seiko derived high-end automatic movement Yesterday

First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night

Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]

SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity 2 days ago

SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap

Geneva Watch Days (GWD) just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. In addition, the event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. Some 400 watches were debuted at the event — but were they any good? Overall, the event reflected the current state of the industry; demands of buyers were perfectly echoed by the watches released. But as SJX notes during the episode, “just because something looks like a Ferrari doesn’t mean it’s a Ferrari”. Notably, some of the biggest announcements and best watches were launched outside of GWD, but during the same week — the most prominent of all being the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne 2 days ago

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size

A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s.  The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm.  The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...

The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 Fratello
Rolex Submariner Ref 14060 When 2 days ago

The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060

When it comes to watches, the little things often make the biggest difference. A power reserve indicator on the dial, the shape of a hand, or the location of a date are small but crucial factors in whether enthusiasts can fall in love with a watch. As a design fan and someone who worked in […] Visit The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 to read the full article.

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked 2 days ago

First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton

Christiaan van der Klaauw has been making mechanical astronomical watches since the 1990s, and the Planetarium is the defining complication of the Dutch manufacture. The first Planetarium wristwatch appeared in 1999 and featured what remains the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium. The complication has since been interpreted in numerous ways, most recently including the Grand Planetarium […]

I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered Fratello
2 days ago

I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered

Not everything can be defined by numbers. A concert in a stadium with 100,000 attendees can be an impressive event, but seeing the same artist in a small, overcrowded club can be a life-changing experience for 100 people. Watches and Wonders is the stadium concert, and Geneva Watch Days (GWD) is the club gig; well, […] Visit I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered to read the full article.

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection Fratello
Nomos Turned 2 days ago

Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection

I still remember running from booth to booth during Watches and Wonders when an email from Nomos arrived in my inbox. It introduced the brand’s new Twice Unique collection and immediately looked like an eclectic new initiative. With this new collection, Nomos celebrates collaboration and creative freedom, allowing the brand to experiment. The dials in […] Visit Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection to read the full article.

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet Worn & Wound
Oris Extends 3 days ago

Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet

Like many generations of kids past and present, I grew up on the Muppets, and well, quite frankly, I’ve never outgrown them. They are one of those rare and fantastic so-called kids’ universes that really transcend age and time. However, when Oris first partnered with the franchise in 2023, I was skeptical. Cartoons, superheroes, Muppets – there are plenty I love, and, of course, I also love watches. I’m just not sure I love the two together. Now, I’m fairly certain I’m in the minority. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition seems to be an enduring fan favorite, later followed up by the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy.” The designs are by all accounts very simple and subtle, with Kermit’s face casually appearing in the date window and Miss Piggy only featured on the caseback. Still, something about them always felt a bit kitschy to me. About a month ago, a teaser came through my inbox announcing a forthcoming Muppet model, and I slotted the information away. Like many of us can tend to do once we’ve been deeply ingrained enough in the watch world, I filed the announcement under the category, “this is not for me.” Let this serve as a good reminder to remain open and willing to change your preferences – to be surprised. When I finally got the full press release for the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition, I started rethinking my position on these types of collaborations altogether. The creativity and attention to detail really blew me away. A lot of brands talk about ma...

First Look - The Gold Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec 3 days ago

First Look - The Gold Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100

Since its founding in 1906 in Hamburg, Montblanc has built its reputation on luxury writing instruments. In 1997, Montblanc expanded its offerings to include watches. Bringing the two seemingly disparate worlds of fountain pens and mechanical watches closer together, Montblanc released the Nicolas Rieussec in 2008, a monopusher chronograph inspired by an 1821 inking chronograph […]

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression Worn & Wound
Hamilton s Popular Murph Collection 3 days ago

Hamilton’s Popular Murph Collection Gets a New Dial Expression

Hamilton is among a small cohort of watchmakers with particularly close ties to film. The brand’s watches have been a part of cinematic history from iconic moments in classic movies like James Bond’s Pulsar in Live and Let Die and Elvis Presley’s Ventura in Blue Hawaii to more recent releases like special edition Ventura models in the Dune franchise or a limited edition Khaki Field made for The Odyssey. In Hamilton’s contribution to cinema, its collaborations have been most significant with Christopher Nolan, the filmmaker behind The Odyssey, Oppenheimer, Tenant, and Interstellar. Among these projects, the pair’s work on the 2014 epic sci-fi film Interstellar has been the most enduring. It resulted in a cult edition of Hamilton’s Khaki Field dubbed the Murph after its crucial role in the plot on the wrist of Murphy “Murph” Cooper, the daughter of Matthew McConaughey’s character Joseph Cooper. The model went on to transcend its part in the film and become a permanent fixture in Hamilton’s catalog. The brand continues to build on this legacy with its latest expression of the Murph featuring a fittingly cosmic dial that echoes back to the model’s origins.The newest edition to the Murph family reprises the more accessible 38mm proportions as opposed to the larger, oversized 42mm build that made up the original edition. Like other models we’ve seen throughout the collection, it also offers the option of a stainless steel bracelet for a sportier look or a...

Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models Fratello
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date 3 days ago

Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models

If you’re looking to express your chic side but don’t want to give up your sportiness, these dive watches might be for you. The two-tone Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date, featuring gold-colored elements, comes in three dial colors — black, blue, and green. The black and green versions made it to Fratello HQ. I […] Visit Chic Deep Down: Hands-On With Two Bicolor Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Models to read the full article.