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Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Sep 9, 2026

Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum

What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina.  Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer.  The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal.  The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price.  Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...

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Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

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Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Piaget stone dials have outgrown Nov 19, 2025

Elemental Beauty: Exotic Stone Dials for the Biver Automatique

Stone dials have become an increasingly visible trend in recent years; once rare, they are now widespread. Yet most rely on a handful of familiar minerals such as malachite, lapis lazuli, and tiger’s eye, leaving little room for novelty. Biver has taken a different approach with the Automatique, offering a far broader and more exotic palette of materials that includes mahogany obsidian, quartzite, and lavender jade-alongside traditional enamel dials crafted by Geneva’s leading specialists. While the new dials take centre stage, the Automatique itself is largely unchanged, and still features one of the most technically interesting movements in the genre of high-end time-only watches. Initial thoughts Mineral stone dials seem to be everywhere these days. Once the domain of brands like Piaget, stone dials have outgrown their niche and become common enough that a cottage industry of suppliers has emerged to supply them at nearly all price points; even Timex offers malachite dials. But most brands are using the same handful of stone types like malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, and other semi-precious, but actually quite common, minerals. This is where Biver goes its own way, offering a diverse and unusual selection of stone and enamel dials, along with a few ‘ordinary’ dials for more conservative collectors. In total, 11 new references join the collection, and each has the option for a precious metal bracelet that matches the case material. As a watch, the Autom...

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[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto I’ve Sep 22, 2024

[VIDEO] Living the Life Exotic: A Year and a Half with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

I’ve spent a lot of time with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto on my wrist over the last year and a half or so. I was lucky enough to pick one up at launch, so I only had to wait a few days before this incredibly special, unexpected, and ultimately charming watch ended up in my possession. Any enthusiast can relate to the incredible excitement of getting a new watch, but we also all know it can be a bit misleading. The honeymoon period, as it’s often referred to, is where you see your new acquisition with nothing but adoration. But, as any enthusiast is also aware, this feeling can fade over time, and that watch you once thought was the greatest thing on Earth begins to lose its appeal. Perhaps it’s a touch larger than you wanted it to be, or the crown annoys you, or it’s just too damn shiny. Whatever it is, you start wearing other watches more and more, and before you know it, that watch you thought you’d love forever is on your “willing to sell” list. The point of this story is that the C1 Bel Canto wasn’t like this. The joy and excitement I got when first putting it on have remained present for the entirety of my ownership thus far. While a new watch or two (just kidding, so many more than that) have entered and exited my collection since, the C1 Bel Canto has remained in constant rotation. It’s easily one of my favorite watches because it does more than most of my watches. Not in terms of functionality, though; yes, it’s the only watch I own that c...

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Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 8, 2024

Nivada Introduces a Titanium F77, and Adds Some Exotic Dials to the Collection

When Nivada relaunched the F77, the brand’s long dormant integrated bracelet sports watch, it landed with a positive reception but was, maybe, seen as a little unremarkable. It paid tribute to the original, maintaining its sleek 37mm case and a sporty profile, but didn’t really do a whole lot to set itself apart from the many other integrated bracelet sports watch options out there. Now, with the second F77 collection hitting just a year later, Nivada has tried something genuinely different for watches in this category, putting a much greater emphasis on the dial, offering a range of choices that approach the exotic. The watch is also now in a new metal, titanium, that will perhaps make it that much more desirable to those looking for an alternative to more common watches in this style.  The “basket weave” dial motif that was introduced in last year’s launch returns here but in just one of the four variants Nivada will be making available. The anthracite gray execution of the titanium F77 is the most straightforward of the new models, and the one that’s most closely linked to previous versions. The real story here though is in those other three dial variants. Nivada will be offering the F77 in meteorite, lapis lazuli, and aventurine, with the general idea being that the brand is both “looking skyward” and “breaking new ground” with dials evoking deep space as well as the earth itself. That’s clever marketing, but it’s backed up in this case by Niva...

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We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… Time+Tide
Nov 13, 2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: The Refreshingly Different Briston Clubmaster Legend Compressor Fratello
2h ago

Hands-On: The Refreshingly Different Briston Clubmaster Legend Compressor

It’s not every day that I walk into the Fratello photo studio and come out genuinely surprised. That’s what happened when our photographer, Max, was shooting a set of cushion-shaped Briston dive watches, including one with an acetate case. Mike already went hands-on with the brand’s Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean. Today, I’ll take a closer […] Visit Hands-On: The Refreshingly Different Briston Clubmaster Legend Compressor to read the full article.

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Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces 19h ago

Louis Erard Introduces the Dia De Los Muertos Black

We’ve arrived at the time of year where we can finally highlight my favorite seasonal watch niche. Skull watches, most often created to underscore the philosophy of memento mori (an acknowledgement of our mortality) tend to pop up in October to coincide with Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations. This is a watch design rabbit hole that has snuck up on me over the years, but if you think about it, it makes a certain amount of sense that a skull represented on a dial surface could be an interesting platform for a variety of craft techniques. We’ll have a (long) list of some of our favorite skull watches on the website a little later this month.  But today, we’ll focus on the latest addition to the skull watches canon, the Louis Erard Dia De Los Muertos Black. This is a fairly straightforward skull watch, with a bold and colorful skull clad in floral motifs dominating the dial. This limited edition (only 10 are being made) has a black coated case and black dial, which feels appropriate and also properly frames the colorful skull.  The floral motifs on the skull are recessed, and the brand’s own images suggest a skull design with subtle depth when explored closely. The brand’s logo is blended into the skull at around 12:00, and the name of the brand appears across the skull’s teeth at 6:00. A total of 6 color transfers have been placed on the skull applique, with the dominant tones being white, gray, orange and yellow. The hands are pear shaped and anthracit...

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Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13 Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día Yesterday

Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13

Chopard continues its tribute to Mexican culture with the thirteenth interpretation of its L.U.C Full Strike. This latest one-of-a-kind “Día de los Muertos” creation pairs one of the manufacture’s most technically accomplished watches with an elaborate dial depicting a calavera, the stylised skull associated with the celebration of life and remembrance. The 2021 version of […]

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Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref Yesterday

Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence

Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...

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Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition Monochrome
Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Yesterday

Introducing - Oris Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition

Oris supports environmental causes through its watches, like the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun or the New York Harbour limited editions, participating in projects dedicated to protecting marine ecosystems and bringing attention to issues beyond watchmaking. The new Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition is made with Francis Pérez, the award-winning underwater photographer and long-time Oris […]

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Introducing - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon, now in an Elegant 36mm Pink Gold Case Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Yesterday

Introducing - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon, now in an Elegant 36mm Pink Gold Case

When thinking about the most emblematic watches produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, some might, of course, mention the Reverso or the Memovox immediately. That said, the Master collection must be included in the list, whether we’re talking about the Master Control collection that debuted in 1992, or the more recent, more elegant and more slender Master Ultra […]

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Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore Hodinkee
Yesterday

Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore

There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...

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Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance Monochrome
2 days ago

Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance

Founded in 1934 and revived by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick in 2014 (who is also behind the return of Airain and its Type 20/21 pilot’s chronographs), Lebois & Co has gradually built its contemporary collection with watches inspired by the brand’s historical catalogue. Following the Heritage Chronograph, the Heritage Small Seconds takes a simpler […]

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Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Frederique Constant released 2 days ago

Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Last year, Frederique Constant released its classic perpetual calendar with a new movement, the FC-776, and eighteen months later, the brand is releasing a burgundy edition of its Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100 pieces. As Mark wrote when the previous edition was released right before last year's Watches and Wonders, the watch "has been one of if not the premiere affordable mechanical perpetual calendar on the market," and with the burgundy edition, the brand is offering a limited edition option to the collection. The polished stainless steel case measures 40mm by 12.25mm and has an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, 50 meters of water resistance, and an engraved case back carrying the individual edition number. The sunray-finished dial shifts from deep wine tones to brighter reflections, with a Côtes de Genève pattern on the counters. The day sits at 9 o'clock, the date at 3 o'clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o'clock. The moonphase at 6 o'clock runs against a midnight-blue background with laser-engraved stars. A chemin de fer minute track, applied faceted hour markers, and polished hands, and the fluted onion crown complete the dial. The Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition, comes on a black alligator strap with a folding buckle and includes a second strap in burgundy alligator with an easy-open deployment clasp. It is priced at $12,995, limited to 100 pieces, and is available now. What We Thin...

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Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night Worn & Wound
Ressence Debuts 2 days ago

Ressence Debuts a Fully Blued-Out Version with Its New Type 10 Dark Night

We know the trend of all black watches well – what was once a novelty has now become a regular part of most catalogs, so perhaps we can no longer call this a trend but an industry staple. I think the monochromatic concept really works on many different levels. It can make a watch ultra stealthy and discrete. For some models, it just looks sleek and sexy. For others, it can actually serve to bring out the best in the design. On the other end of the spectrum, we have models with so much tone on tone on tone – lacking any contrast through materials or textures – you can barely read them. These watches have understandably undergone some scrutiny. However, I find it a cheeky commentary on the fact we don’t really need our timepieces for any utilitarian purpose, and a color palette can simply be a design choice.So, in typical Ressence fashion, we have a twist on the all-black aesthetic with a deep blue hue the brand is calling Dark Night. If you’re familiar with Ressence, you know the brand is anything but motivated by trends – the opposite. This is a brand who literally came into being by asking the question, what if someone were to build a blueprint for a watch for the first time today without any constraints of what a watch should look like? The result was the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) offering human-centric readability with a layout engineered to look and process like a two-dimensional digital screen lacking traditional hands or a crown. Instead, the ...

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Introducing - A new Gold Tone for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N Monochrome
Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 2 days ago

Introducing - A new Gold Tone for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N

The Mirrored Force Resonance by independent watchmaking brand Armin Strom is, without a doubt, one of the most fascinating watches of recent years. Its spectacular movement builds on an idea first explored in 1665, when Christiaan Huygens observed the synchronisation of two pendulum clocks: resonance. First unveiled in 2016, Armin Strom refined the century-old concept […]

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The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro 3 days ago

The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary

A few months ago, we asked our team members to write about the best watch they’ve ever owned. Thomas wrote a love story about his Rolex Explorer II 16570, Jorg was (and still is) talking about the Tudor Black Bay Pro, and Lex wrote that his JLC Geophysic Universal Time beats all his other watches. […] Visit The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Fratello
Tudor Royal Vs Rolex Oysterquartz 4 days ago

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a hot cup of coffee, some breakfast, and another installment in our ongoing Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, the question is whether you’ll go modern or vintage. Daan picked the updated Tudor Royal that debuted at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. It goes up against Jorg’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Royal Vs. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust to read the full article.

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The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene Monochrome
Seiko s Timekeeper 4 days ago

The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene

China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]

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The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist Fratello
Kiwame Tokyo 5 days ago

The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist

Kiwame Tokyo continues to deliver watches that punch above their price. The Asakusa, Tokyo-based brand appreciates watches with classic proportions and details, including genuine lacquer. Unsurprisingly, collectors have responded, leading to near-instantaneous sellouts. In July, we previewed the new Kubo series that led to the fervor.  Today, we finally have our hands on one of […] Visit The Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Brings Classic Elegance With A Twist to read the full article.

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Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree Hodinkee
Breguet s Breguet 5 days ago

Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree

It's a big world out there, Baller, full of seductive objects to pursue beyond watches. In the course of finding stuff to fill out BAL each week, I come across delights galore, and it feels essential to pass along that, should you have an excess of time and money and a dearth of memorabilia, there's a full auction of items from Paul Reubens (aka Pee Wee Herman), titled, appropriately enough, Paul Reubens' Big Auction, and yes, there's a bike. Scorekeeping last weeks picks, the Orvis Solunagraph auctions next Thursday and the LIP Mach 2000 later today. The Patek 5107 sold for €13,500, and the Omega DeVille Emerald sold for $650. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Your affordable vintage diver of the week is from that least-loved of brands, Invicta. Yes, Invicta is a punchline now, but their vintage stuff can offer surprises. Here's Alan Bean's personal BA 145.022-69, for all you space cadets, and here's a trio of early electronic Wittnauers that will be 'fun' for someone, depending on how capacious their definition of fun is, given that the watches are listed as not currently running. This gold chronograph from Juvenia felt, on first seeing it, like the most charming watch I'd find this week, but then there's this incredible Zenith purse watch, which takes the cake charm-wise. For all you Pogue heads (the watch/astronaut, not the band), neither of these are 'true' pogues, in that they're both 6139-6002s, but both look great, and Seiko 6139s are great fun. Finally, I covered...

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Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement Monochrome
Ressence s First Oil-Filled Watch 5 days ago

Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement

A few months ago, at Watches and Wonders, Ressence introduced a watch to be seen as a pivotal moment for the brand. It was potentially the most important launch for the independent watchmaker since its creation. Dubbed the TYPE 11, this watch remained very Ressence at first sight… Evolutionary more than radically novel. That was […]

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