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New: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe White Ceramic
Banking on the huge success of their Top Gun series, IWC releases new Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe White Ceramic.
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SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”
Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...
Time+Tide
Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now!
Lewis Hamilton was photographed wearing an unreleased white IWC watch at F1 Miami in May IWC today releases the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe It will be available at the beginning of July 2023 While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s … ContinuedThe post Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak
The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...
Hodinkee
Auctions: This Patek Perpetual Calendar Is Already An Important Watch; The Story Of Its Former Owner Makes It Even More Fascinating
A one-of-six pink gold perpetual calendar is set to be auctioned this week; it was once owned by an enigmatic millionaire whose life and death were the object of interest (and investigations).
Time+Tide
Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Piaget has a lot of in-house know-how within their manufacture, and this has allowed them to be not only a champion of ultra-thin watchmaking but also exquisite jewellery watches as well. After a ‘touch and feel’ session within the Piaget booth, Kylie and I stepped outside to react to two different segments of their novelty … ContinuedThe post Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Portofino Collection Gets a New Complete Calendar to Complement Last Year’s Perpetual
Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm. First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...
SJX Watches
Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar
Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals. While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC. The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Made the World's Most Complete Chinese Calendar
The new Tonda PF Xiali Calendar shows how well masterfully complex watchmaking and elegantly wearable design can go hand in hand.
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Xiali Calendar
Parmigiani releases a new watch with a traditional Chinese Calendar and precison moon phase indication - the Tonda PF Xiali Calendar.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P Perpetual Calendar – Reprise
The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P is a truly lovely perpetual calendar with some interesting technical twists.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic
After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Wait, What? Patek Philippe Just Released A Destro Split-Seconds Perpetual Calendar (With Hands In Fire-Engine Red)
Calling all lefties: This is not a drill. Patek just dropped an entirely unexpected complicated calendar.
Deployant
Our six best picks for a watch featuring the perpetual calendar
We turn our attention this Throwback Sunday and focus on watches with the perpetual calendar. Here are our six best picks.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons
Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar – Reprise
Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG's intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.
Deployant
It’s complicated! 6 recommendations for a perpetual calendar chronograph
Here are our recommendations for the highly popular, double complication series: 6 best watches with perpetual calendar and chronograph.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Sovrygn Calendar delivers multiple complications and a super-fresh look
Few watches can claim to be truly unique designs, except for those within the wild west that is Kickstarter. Instead of massive brands guessing at or even manufacturing the latest trends, the world of crowdfunding simply exists to give people what they want, and nothing that they don’t. Sovrygn is a great example of this, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sovrygn Calendar delivers multiple complications and a super-fresh look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: HSNY awards $100K in scholarships to watchmaking students and institutions at their annual gala
One of the biggest fears or concerns within the watch industry is keeping the art of watchmaking alive. When you ask young children what they want to be when they are older, you usually get a response along the lines of professional athlete or secret agent. Watchmaker is by no means their go-to answer. But, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: HSNY awards $100K in scholarships to watchmaking students and institutions at their annual gala appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Carl F. Bucherer’s International Palette - Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition
Carl F. Bucherer’s flagship watch, the Heritage BiCompax Annual, is now available in a new palette of colors and international destination casebacks.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”
Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph In Steel
For IWC, 2017 is the Year of Da Vinci, and that includes a refresh of the most iconic model, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph designed by the legendary Kurt Klaus.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”
Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...
Quill & Pad
‘The Watch Annual’ 2021 Book Review: For Watch Lovers By Watch Lovers
The inaugural edition of 'The Watch Annual' came out just before Christmas 2020, and now Elizabeth Doerr is pleased to hold the second edition – 'The Watch Annual' 2021 – in her hands. This book is about the watch community, a reflection of social media, the watch fam, and, of course, new watch releases. But it’s also about something else too: charity, appreciation, and giving back.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” (#7)
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. This month we’ve been counting down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best, on the basis of the online traffic. Heading deep into the top 10 it’s the he IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” (#7) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Star Diver 1964 (RK-AU0501B): Revitalizing the Olympia Calendar Diver
This new Diver 1964 release is based on the original Orient Olympia Calendar Diver, which was the first 40m dive watch with a bezel that Orient ever produced.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
One of Vacheron Constantin’s more affordable complicated timepieces, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar was recently refreshed with a smartly minimalist palette of white gold and grey. And the watchmaker has quickly followed up with the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, which is more striking – with more complicated aesthetics – thanks to a see-through dial that reveals the calendar works. Initial thoughts Eminently different from the standard version, the Openface is a strong addition to the brand’s calendar line up, especially for those who find the standard models too simple in style – it has a notably unique aesthetic. The new look is the result of a surprisingly simple upgrade. Instead of a skeletonised movement – which is the norm for open-faced watches but far more costly – this has a transparent dial that showcases the intricate wheels and jumpers of the calendar module. Simple as it is, the Openface is nevertheless thoughtfully executed. In typical Vacheron Constantin fashion, attention has been paid to the details in both design and finish to create a pleasing, refined look. One example is the upper section of the dial that’s finished with a radial guilloche, which contrasts with the lower portion in sapphire, giving it visual definition (while also highlighting the branding). The hour markers are secured with feet on both ends, instead of being cantilevered, for extra stability And despite the complex appearance, legibility has prese...
Deployant
Review: Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar, new from Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original extends their Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar with a new model in stainless steel, in a very fine matte opaline rose gold dial.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert”
IWC have the pilot’s watch game sussed out and their Top Gun series are among the toughest of the bunch, with a no-holds barred approach to the watch as a vital flight instrument. You might recognise a whiff of nostalgia in the large sword hands and classic onion crown big enough to twiddle with proper … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition and Perpetual Calendar “Mojave Desert” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.