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Results for Caliber 9S85

730 articles · 138 videos found · page 22 of 29

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 Hodinkee
Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2 What Jul 6, 2026

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g 02Series Gen 2

What We Know Today, British microbrand Studio Underd0g, known for its uniquely conceived and constructed dials, introduces the second-generation update to its 02Series time-only field watch-ish design. Though new dial colors kind of feel like the brand's major schtick, there are a few surprising changes this time around. First, and a change that's sure to appeal to everyone, is a slight reduction in the case height of the 02Series. It's not the craziest of reductions, going from 12mm to 11.5mm, but shaving off this much is still a welcome improvement, especially considering the case itself is 9.4mm without the pronounced crystal. The new case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with the new 11.5mm thickness and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Yes, the diameter has also increased by half a millimeter, but the revamped proportions should work well across a large variety of wrists. The tighter tolerances also mean that the dial is now closer to the crystal, and this was accomplished thanks to the brand's acquisition of assembly workshop Horologium, now transformed into Studio Underd0g's own in-house workshop, aptly titled The D0ghouse. The caliber inside has also received a subtle update—the Sellita SW210 has been replaced by the SW200-2 M Power+. It's a mouthful, but what that means is an extended power reserve, increased from 42 hours to 63 hours. But in keeping with the execution of the previous generation, the rotor is removed to keep this second-generation manually wound. Across the four ...

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Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Grand Seiko Updates Jun 24, 2026

Introducing: Grand Seiko Updates The Core Evolution 9 Collection With Tapered Bracelets And Micro-Adjustment Clasps (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Grand Seiko introduces nine new variants to the three-hander, time-and-date models in its Evolution 9 collection. If you're feeling overwhelmed by that already, don't worry. Yes, there's quite a bit of nuance to unpack here among all these references, but not all nine are really new watches, per se. Many of them are existing models, just slightly modified. If you've read the title of this article, you'll already know that the biggest updates to these Evolution 9 models are things that collectors have long clamored for— tapered bracelets and clasps with tool-free microadjustment. Yes, for those who weren't able to achieve a perfect fit with previous Evolution 9 models, they will be able to now and can adjust accordingly, especially in hotter months with more wrist swelling. The clasp design comes from the original Evolution UFA SLGB003 model introduced last year, but now has spread to the rest of the collection, in both steel and titanium versions, and both 37mm and 40mm. Gone are the 5-day Spring Drive 9RA2 calibers used in the collection, replaced entirely with the U.F.A caliber 9RB2. This means that for those who found the 37mm U.F.A models too small, the more classic 40mm versions now get the ultra-accurate caliber that features an annual rated accuracy of +/- 20 seconds (timing per month is quoted at +/- 3 seconds). This is a big deal, and I think it suggests that Grand Seiko could be making a move to replace all of its Spring Drive calibers down ...

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Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

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Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026 Hodinkee
Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Jun 15, 2026

Honorary Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern Passes Away: 1938-2026

Philippe Stern, the visionary executive who led Patek Philippe through the end of the quartz crisis, kept the family company independent and secured its position at the top of Swiss mechanical high horology, died on June 14th at the age of 88. The Geneva-based company announced Philippe Stern's passing in a statement calling the Patek Philippe Honorary President a "pioneering and visionary spirit" who "left an indelible mark on the history of the family manufacture, preserving its independence and establishing its global stature." Philippe Stern. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. Stern led Patek Philippe as President from 1993 to 2009. During his tenure, he consolidated Patek Philippe's manufacturing at a new flagship manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. He integrated its production capabilities to bring as much as possible in-house. He also oversaw the launch of the Nautilus sport watch in the 1970s, the multi-year project to build the Caliber 89, the most complicated portable mechanical watch at the time, boasting 33 complications. In 2001, he inaugurated the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, an unparalleled exhibition of not only Patek Philippe but of the entire history of horology. Philippe Stern was born in 1938 into a family already at the center of Swiss watchmaking: his grandfather, Charles Stern, had recently acquired the Patek Philippe manufacture in 1932, and his father, Henri Stern, had just joined the company. After studying economics and commerce, Philippe Ste...

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Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Jun 15, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II

What We Know Just in time for the hot and humid summer ahead, Doxa has just unveiled a new generation of its distinctive, cushion-cased dive-watch-slash-chronograph with the new Sub 200 T.Graph II. The best part? It's no longer a limited edition, but rather a permanent offering for the brand. Oh, and thankfully, it's priced less than that previous 300-piece LE. At a quick glance, nothing seems to have changed on Doxa's tribute to its 1969 design, and you'd be sort of correct. The dial layout, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, along with an oversized arrowhead chronograph seconds hand, remains the same in this new generation. But the main changes here are sure to make almost everyone happy: a slight reduction in diameter and case thickness. While the previous Sub 200 T.Graph measured at 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.15mm, the steel case on the Sub 200 T.Graph II measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness.  Rather than the new old stock Valjoux 7734 chronograph caliber that the limited edition housed, this new T.Graph II uses a contemporary automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph caliber, with a slightly higher 56-hour power reserve and a much higher beat rate of 28,800 VpH. New to the Sub 200 T.Graph II is also another dial color, Caribbean (Doxa's name for blue), which is a familiar livery within the brand's other models but never before offered on a T.Graph. The dark, slightly dusty navy dial joins the three other colorways found in the original design: ...

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Review: the OG Deep Space Blue Worn & Wound
Ming ly every element stripping Jun 12, 2026

Review: the OG Deep Space Blue

There’s a riskiness to Oliver Gallaugher’s approach to watch design that I can’t help but admire. His aesthetic is clean, lending a stripped-down, contemporary look, but his methods are complex, resulting in elaborate manufacturing and higher costs. What looks, at a glance, like something simple, like a hand, never is. In fact, the hands of his watches, of which there have been two series, with the first sold out, are notably complicated, even featuring a “world’s first.” Further, though his watches are two-handers, rather than using a standard Swiss off-the-shelf movement, he has, thus far, used highly finished bespoke calibers. The result, and here is the dangerous part, is watches that don’t scream why they cost what they do. They aren’t for people who want or need an obvious element to point to, like a guilloche dial or a complication. The OG Watches Deep Space Blue is both a follow-up and an evolution of the Deep Space concept that the brand debuted with. It takes the same overarching concept, a minimal watch with a dial inspired by the night sky, but developed and refined seemingly every element, stripping back further, and yet increasing the complexity of manufacturing. It also uses a bespoke movement from Le Temps Manufactures, which is known for its work with very high-end independents. Beginning with the case, the first model was 41mm x 10.2mm thick and made of 316L steel. The new model is 38mm x 8.8mm and made of 904L. Given the spacious dial and...

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Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01 Worn & Wound
Seiko Jun 12, 2026

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01

Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....

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Introducing: The Longines Master Collection Refreshed For 2026 Hodinkee
Longines Master Collection Refreshed Jun 11, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Master Collection Refreshed For 2026

What We Know When Longines launched the Master Collection in 2005, it established the line as the brand's flagship dress watch offering—a position the line has held for two decades. Today, the Saint-Imier-based brand is announcing a comprehensive rethinking of the collection, spanning 30mm, 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm cases across some twenty new references. It's the second significant collection update Longines has made in 2026, following the successful and much-in-demand Hydroconquest refresh announced in March. All twenty references share the same core design language. Cases are stainless steel throughout. The barleycorn dial texture runs across the line, though the 30mm and 34mm models offer silver barleycorn only, and offer a two-tone option with yellow or rose gold-capped bezels and matching crowns. While the 39mm and 41mm expand to include blue barleycorn options. The 41mm also adds a variant with Eastern Arabic numerals, which is not offered in any other size. All models display hours, minutes, and seconds centrally, with a date aperture at 3 o'clock. The 30mm references are powered by the Caliber L592.5, a self-winding movement with a silicon balance spring and a power reserve of up to 45 hours. The 34mm, 39mm, and 41mm models all use the Caliber L888.5—also self-winding, also silicon balance spring—with a power reserve of up to 72 hours. Both are exclusive Longines calibers. Across all sizes, watches are offered on stainless steel bracelets with newly designed sho...

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