Watch brandsWatch wikiWatch videosVariousWatch calendarSaved articles
PopularRolexOmegaPatek PhilippeAudemars PiguetTudorGrand SeikoCartierSeikoIWCTAG HeuerBreitlingJaeger-LeCoultreA. Lange & SohneZenith

Results for Caliber UN-118

923 articles · 6 videos found · page 22 of 31

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns Having 1h ago

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns

Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...

Read article
Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Bulgari BVL 362 based Yesterday

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...

Read article
Miroir Image: Berneron Inverts the Mirage SJX Watches
Montblanc Unveiled Secret” Yesterday

Miroir Image: Berneron Inverts the Mirage

Berneron is following the release of its most complicated model with its simplest: the Mirage Miroir. An inverted variant of the popular Mirage 38, the Miroir flips the script to put the golden calibre on display in lieu of a traditional dial. Initial thoughts I’ve been looking forward to the launch of the Miroir since seeing the 3D-printed plastic prototype earlier this year. The inverted format is not especially new, but the Miroir is probably hitting the trend in stride. Beyond the popularity of the mirrored concept itself, Berneron’s house style for movement finishing suits being put on display. Unfortunately, the inverted format precludes a dial. This isn’t a critique of the Miroir as much as it is a weakness shared across the category. Of course, watches like this exist because for many collectors, the opportunity to see the movement — which in this case offers a rich palette of materials and textures — is preferable to looking at a dial. Rather than expose the relatively uninteresting dial side of the main plate, Berneron has opted for a closed case back, similar to the Montblanc “Unveiled Secret”. This choice gives the compact watch surprising heft and a low-profile feel on the wrist. The Miroir also introduces the brand’s first bracelet, which embodies the same detail-oriented approach to construction that Berneron puts into its watches. I tried on an early example of the bracelet back in April, and even then the quality was obvious — the alterna...

Read article
First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Monochrome
Chopard Revives Yesterday

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

In the mid-1990s, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele embarked on an ambitious project to elevate Chopard’s watchmaking credentials by establishing an independent manufacturing facility in Fleurier – and succeeded. Following the development of the acclaimed ultra-thin automatic calibre 96.01-L, the manufacture released its first watch in 1997. Bearing the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard,  the L.U.C 1860 launched […]

Read article
First Look - Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection Monochrome
Hamilton /Breiling venture Seiko was Yesterday

First Look - Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection

A name with historical importance at Seiko, the Speedtimer refers to early wrist chronographs created by the brand back in 1969. Alongside Zenith and the Heuer/Hamilton/Breiling venture, Seiko was among the first three brands to launch an automatic chronograph movement with its calibre 6139 inside a watch named the Speedtimer. In recent years, this name […]

Read article
The New Unimatic Impronte Collection Leaves A Permanent Imprint Fratello
Unimatic Impronte Collection Leaves 5 days ago

The New Unimatic Impronte Collection Leaves A Permanent Imprint

Over the years, we have seen Unimatic deliver great creativity with every new release. After reviewing the Modello Uno UT1-IPP from the Swimming Pool collection in June, I briefly wondered how the brand could make me smile again. Leave it up to its founders, Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, to do exactly that. Industrial designers […] Visit The New Unimatic Impronte Collection Leaves A Permanent Imprint to read the full article.

Read article
Longines Masters The Monopusher SJX Watches
Montblanc Aug 25, 2026

Longines Masters The Monopusher

The Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher is a compelling showcase of the brand’s industrial expertise and increasingly compelling value proposition. The watch pairs 1930s charm with a thoroughly modern manually wound monopusher chronograph. The advanced calibre is complemented by a richly textured dial — in soft blue or warm silver — that features period-inspired pulsometer typography and applied numerals. Initial thoughts The Master Monopusher is illustrative of the industrial transformation that has taken place over the past decade at Longines. Like its rival Tudor, Longines has aggressively moved to incorporate advanced features like silicon hairsprings to create distance between itself and the ever-growing roster of brands that rely on more generic movement platforms that are widely available from suppliers like Sellita and La Joux-Perret. A decade ago, Longines’ latest and greatest monopusher chronograph had an industry-standard Nivarox hairspring, and was adjusted by means of a generic curb-pin regulator. Power reserve was a reasonable — but unimpressive — 54 hours. Fast-forward to today, and every one of these details has been meaningfully upgraded, giving consumers and collectors a reason to choose a mainstream powerhouse over an independent start-up. The advanced technical content results in an attractive value at US$3,900, a price that undercuts rivals like Montblanc that offer similar monopushers. Furthermore, that’s less money — in both ...

Read article
Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30 Monochrome
Minerva Aug 19, 2026

Hands-on - The Yellow Gold Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

Minerva‘s Unveiled Chronograph series is an exercise in turning conventional watchmaking inside out. Instead of hiding the movement under the dial, which would require taking the watch off the wrist to admire its calibre through the display caseback, the manufacture reverses its architecture, making the chronograph mechanism and its distinctive hand-finished components the main attraction […]

Read article
Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Les Opus Aug 18, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus

The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...

Read article
Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV SJX Watches
Voutilainen demonstrate demand Aug 14, 2026

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Read article
Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions Monochrome
Montblanc Jul 29, 2026

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions

Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]

Read article
Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Autavia Jul 24, 2026

Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative?

I own both the Citizen Garrison and the TAG Heuer Autavia WBE5116.EB0173, and the difference between them goes far beyond price. The Citizen Garrison uses Citizen’s light-powered Eco-Drive movement and a remarkably light Super Titanium case, while the TAG Heuer Autavia is a Swiss automatic pilot watch with a COSC-certified Calibre 5 movement, a 42 mm steel case and a distinctive blue smoked dial. One is accessible and practical, designed for easy daily ownership. The other is a discontinued premium model with strong aviation heritage. That makes this an unusual but revealing comparison. Can an affordable Citizen Garrison provide the same wrist presence, legibility and everyday enjoyment as a significantly more expensive TAG Heuer Autavia? And how much do the Autavia’s automatic movement, finishing, heritage and premium positioning actually change the ownership experience? In this comparison, I will examine their design, comfort, materials, movements, readability and real-world value. For anyone searching for the best affordable pilot watches, or wondering whether an affordable pilot watch alternative can compete with a premium Swiss model, these two watches offer a fascinating answer. Case Size, Quality, and Comfort Both watches are very well made, but I sincerely prefer the Citizen’s case. The TAG Heuer Autavia has the solid construction and clean finishing expected from a premium Swiss watch. Its stainless-steel case feels substantial, and the transitions between i...

Read article
Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Launches the Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace Monochrome
RGM Jul 20, 2026

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Launches the Model 151 Snoopy Flying Ace

RGM Watch Company has never been a brand to chase trends or pop culture. Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Pennsylvania, the brand has built its reputation on traditional watchmaking, producing around 400 watches annually while preserving crafts such as engine turning, movement decoration, and even in-house calibre production. Its latest release, however, […]

Read article
In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist Monochrome
Voutilainen Jul 10, 2026

In-Depth - The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon, a Pocket Watch Masterpiece Reborn for the Wrist

When Urban Jürgensen returned in 2025 under the co-direction of Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield, three watches formed the inaugural collection. The UJ-2 introduced a time-only calibre with a double-wheel natural escapement; the UJ-3, an integrated perpetual calendar; while the UJ-1 Tourbillon 250th Anniversary Watch was meant to be the technical masterpiece for the return […]

Read article
First Look - The New Czapek Antarctique with a Frozen Meteor Dial in Two Case Sizes Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique Jun 30, 2026

First Look - The New Czapek Antarctique with a Frozen Meteor Dial in Two Case Sizes

Launched in 2020, the Antarctique is Czapek’s distinctive take on the integrated luxury sports watch powered by the brand’s first in-house calibre. Although the Antarctique has embraced complications, the go-to model is the more straightforward time-only reference, often featuring textured dials, like the successful Passage de Drake editions. Following the Antarctique Green Meteor, Czapek proposes […]

Read article
Hands On: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jun 25, 2026

Hands On: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon

Independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud has introduced the Tourbillon, a watch that looks a lot like the brand’s sophomore Origine, but is in fact entirely different. The apparent similarity conceals an all-new calibre, which features a lively 30-second tourbillon front and centre. Mr Pinaud’s most ambitious project yet will be made in three 10-piece limited editions: one in titanium, and two in platinum. Initial thoughts Sylvain Pinaud is one of the few contemporary independent watchmakers who launched his eponymous brand with a complication before going back to basics with a time-only model. Launched in 2022, the Origine was well-suited to the prevailing taste for well-finished time-only watches. With Origine production in the rearview, Mr Pinaud has moved back in the direction of additional complexity with his first tourbillon. For fans of Sylvain Pinaud — and artisanal watchmaking in general — the well-executed Tourbillon leaves little room for complaint. That said, it’s liable to be criticised for the simple fast that it looks a lot like the Origine. Indeed, the two watches could hardly look more similar — a fact that limits the Tourbillon’s ‘shock and awe’ factor. At launch, I noted that the Tourbillon costs more than double that of the time-only Origine. That’s arguably a big ask relative to the additional complexity of the tourbillon regulator, but the cost basis is probably a moot point given collector appetite for independent watchmaking and the...

Read article
First Look - The New 37mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Jun 24, 2026

First Look - The New 37mm Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Lake Suwa SLGB015

Back in April 2025, as the highlight of Watches and Wonders, Grand Seiko unveiled an important new duo of models for its Evolution 9 collection: the titanium SLGB003 and the platinum SLGB001. A new 37mm case, an unprecedented and appealing new dial texture, finally a micro-adjustment on the clasp and, most importantly, the launch of the new calibre 9RB2, also known […]

Read article
Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Annual Calendar SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Annual Calendar Twenty Jun 22, 2026

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Annual Calendar

Twenty years since the original Venus’s debut, Dutch independent Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) upgrades the concept with the Venus Annual Calendar featuring a stellar automatic movement and an austere new “astronomical” dial. The Annual Calendar supplements the more traditional Venus Zodiac, which shares the same 38 mm case and upgraded base calibre. Initial thoughts The next generation of CVDK’s Venus comes in two flavours that act as foils to each other, pitched by the brand as representing astronomy and astrology. While the Zodiac variant is a familiar blue aventurine glass affair, much like the original Venus launched back in 2006, the instrument-like white Annual Calendar version is new to the Venus family. Western sun-sign astrology divides the sky into 30° slices, each named after a constellation such as Virgo or Scorpio, with whichever slice the sun occupies being the current sign. CVDK’s planetariums normally include both an annual calendar and the 12 signs of the zodiac, so dropping the latter might seem like a loss for an astronomical watch. The duo would make an ideal set, but are currently only solid individually. However, these popular sun-signs do not match the actual locations nor sizes of the constellations. For example, the slice marked ︎ for Cancer actually contains the Gemini constellation, while Sagittarius (︎) accommodates Sagittarius and Scorpio. In some ways, the zodiacs were just bloat, and separating the two makes both watches st...

Read article
California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant SJX Watches
Ming Jun 16, 2026

California Chronograph: J.N. Shapiro Unveils Infinity Series Radiant

California-based independent watchmaker J.N. Shapiro has unveiled the Infinity Series Radiant chronograph, the brand’s first complicated model available to the general public. Like the special order series released last year, the Radiant is built around a well-known La Joux-Perret monopusher calibre, but this time the watch features a tantalum case and choice of two dial configurations. Initial thoughts The Infinity Series is how it all started for J.N. Shapiro, and while the southern California-based watchmaker subsequently introduced the Resurgence — taking ‘made in America’ to the extreme — the Infinity Series makes use of third-party movements to make the brand’s inventive hand-turned guilloche dials more accessible. The Radiant chronograph takes after the 14-piece limited edition unveiled last year for the Boston-based ‘Escapement’ collector group. The Radiant is functionally identical, using the same La Joux-Perret cal. 5000 monopusher chronograph movement. But while the Escapement chronograph featured a movement that had been customised for fellow Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) member Ming, the Radiant gets its own anthracite-coated livery complete with the brand’s ‘infinity weave’ logo. The movement itself has its own interesting backstory, but the handmade dials and weighty tantalum case do more to help justify the pricing of US$35,900. By the standards of mass market watchmaking this is a steep ask for a straightforward complication,...

Read article
Introducing - The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x The Limited Edition Monochrome
Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x Jun 12, 2026

Introducing - The Arnold & Son HM London Skyline x The Limited Edition

Arnold & Son, the brand founded in honour of the famous 18th-century English watchmaker John Arnold, translates his historical legacy into high-end Swiss watches powered by in-house movements – about 20 to date. Arnold & Son’s HM line is the brand’s more dress-oriented collection and is also powered by a powerful, ultra-thin, in-house calibre. A […]

Read article
First Look - The New Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac, Planetary Mechanics on the Wrist Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac Planetary Mechanics Jun 10, 2026

First Look - The New Christiaan van der Klaauw Venus Zodiac, Planetary Mechanics on the Wrist

Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this […]

Read article
Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Jun 4, 2026

Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty

The Girard-Perregaux (GP) Laureato Fifty collection adds four new references in crowd-pleasing configurations. The original 39 mm size is joined by a compact 36 mm option, available with our without diamonds, while a range of expensively made dials are on offer from solid 18k rose gold to deep blue flinqué enamel. The first four permanent members of the Laureato Fifty collection are powered by the brand’s latest automatic calibre, the GP4800, which illustrates GP’s capabilities as a manufacture. Initial thoughts Last year’s launch of the Laureato Fifty felt promising, but it was clearly just an opening act. GP is a brand intent on resurgence, and the Laureato Fifty represents an important part of the brand’s future. In this context, the four new Laureato Fifty references — in 2 sizes and 3 popular colourways — feel somewhat inevitable, though the high level of execution is anything but. Under the leadership of Marc Michel-Amadry GP seems to be building momentum in the right way — by emphasising what makes the brand unique. Specifically, its design icons like the Laureato and Three Gold Bridges, and its capabilities as a manufacture. In a few short months, the brand has delivered in each of these categories. The Laureato was one of the original luxury sports watches with an integrated bracelet, and helped establish the now-familiar format. Today, however, the field is crowded, a fact that invites comparison. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind first,...

Read article