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J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Mystery Clock Philips’ upcoming Nov 4, 2025

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock

Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”,  a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Lookalike Jul 15, 2025

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References

Back in May, I wrote about a Seiko release that got me thinking about the brand’s current perception among watch enthusiasts. Those Seiko 5 sports watches were a clear throwback, I think, to a time period when Seiko was the brand of distinction and choice for fans of affordable watches. Those days are gone. We still love Seiko, of course, but there’s just a lot more competition, and everyone’s game has been stepped up a bit. It’s worth remembering, too, that the Seiko of a decade ago wasn’t just the enthusiast’s choice for divers. Seiko has always made a huge variety of watches in all different styles, and another recent release from the brand is a good reminder of that, and a throwback release in its own way.  Back in the day, being involved in watch forums meant that you’d see endless questions about what watches to buy as an alternative to any number of rare, expensive, or otherwise unattainable luxury watches. That way of thinking about watch collecting has really shifted in recent years with the growth of the microbrand scene and the wide acceptance of new, original designs. But a nicely made “dupe” still has a place, and Seiko is about as good as anyone at delivering. The new SWR103, SWR104, and SWR106 are simple rectangular dress watches running on a quartz movement that retail for a little over $300. They also look a whole lot like the Cartier Tank, down to some very specific details.  Seiko has made a Tank dupe for as long as I’ve been intere...

Duke Ellington, the Cartier Tank à Guichets, and the Year of the Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank à Guichets Apr 16, 2025

Duke Ellington, the Cartier Tank à Guichets, and the Year of the Jump Hour

I’ve never bought a watch because it was worn by a celebrity. I generally don’t think that’s a wise reason to own a watch, and kind of goes against my general philosophy of collecting as an act of individual expression. Still, there are some watches where the association with a particular person either looms so incredibly large it’s impossible to ignore (the Paul Newman Daytona, I think, falls into this category), and others where the association may not be at the level of a household name, but is nonetheless fascinating and interesting. Duke Ellington and his preference for the Cartier Tank à Guichets falls into this category for me.  This is probably not the appropriate forum for an extended discourse on the importance of Duke Ellington to American music and culture, so we’ll do a short version. Ellington is universally regarded as one of the great American artists – he’s responsible for over 1,000 jazz compositions and was active over a 60 year period. Critics and experts in jazz and American music often mention him in the same breath as people like Mozart, which seems like a good place to be.  Duke Ellington, wearing a Tank a Guichets So, he’s one of the singular genius artists of his or any era. And, I dunno, it kinda seems like wearing the same watch as that guy would be pretty cool. From the time I started noticing watches on the wrists of notable people, the idea that the Tank à Guichets was Ellington’s choice has been a point of fascination. ...

Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers Worn & Wound
Cartier May 9, 2024

Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers

Before I hop into the watches in “Challengers” and how they play into the movie, I want to establish an important fact about me - I am not a sports fan, much less a tennis fan. However, this movie wasn’t really about tennis, was it?  This is more a movie about the loss of innocence to the nature of competition. Now that is something I can understand, and I’d wager you can too. Many of us are pushed to be competitive from a young age. Whether it be through sports, academics, the competition over jobs, success in the arts, or even in love, the spirit of competition is implanted early, and if you’re not careful it can take over. And yes, when it comes to the consumption of competition, watches can play a role.  We all start out wide-eyed and accepting of others, the concept of “prejudice” or an “enemy” is not innate but instilled through slow infiltration. At the start, the characters in Challengers are exactly this - hopeful and innocent. Art Donaldson (Mike Faist) and Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor) are former boarding school friends and roommates turned tennis teammates. They are close friends whose relationship extends both on and off court. Patrick is established as the naturally better tennis player at the beginning of their careers, but his love and respect for his friend Art is evident. In an early scene the two win a doubles match, but are then discussing a singles match they have the next day against one another where Art asks if Patrick woul...