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H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Feb 6, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial

For H. Moser’s first release of 2025, they’ve added a new reference to the Pioneer collection in the still somewhat new 40mm case. I’ve been a fan of the Pioneer for what it represents in the Moser catalog for some time. Moser is a very high end indie that is responsible for a lot of truly interesting and innovative watchmaking, but the Pioneer has existed as a (somewhat) accessible access point to the brand that gives you a lot of Moser style, and, frankly, a good chunk of the watchmaking that makes the brand special. I reviewed the “Mega-Cool” Pioneer all the way back in 2021, and came away impressed with the aesthetic even if I felt like the case perhaps a tad too big. The new, smaller, 40mm case is Moser’s answer to many of their clients who were asking for this watch in a smaller size, and while there is indeed a 40mm Pioneer on the accessible side, here Moser is using the platform for a watchmaking flex. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a new 40mm Pioneer running on Moser’s HMC 805 automatic caliber with a deep burgundy dial and a red gold case. Red gold and burgundy certainly feel like a natural combination, and the watch seems to exude a warmth that makes it particularly appealing in these dark winter months (although, to be fair, this watch has a place on the beach as well).  If you only know the Pioneer in its 43mm guise, you really owe it to yourself to get the 40mm version on your wrist. It wears completely differently and changes the impact of...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry. Initial thoughts The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch. Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap). Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record. Burgundy gradient A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treat...

Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Unveils Jul 1, 2024

Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium

Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch Worn & Wound
Feb 2, 2024

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protect your everyday carry gear and other valuables wherever your travels take you. With five internal pockets, water resistant design, and compact size, this pouch packs a ton of features for its price. You can configure the Pioneer Carry Global Pouch from a variety of color and materials right here in the Windup Watch Shop. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protec...

Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity Worn & Wound
Aug 21, 2023

Hanhart’s Elegant Pioneer Silva is an Exercise in Refined Simplicity

Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt.  To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models.  The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony Time+Tide
Aug 11, 2023

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony

The Hanhart Pioneer Silva uses vintage inspiration for a versatile package. It serves as a reminder that Hanhart aren’t a one-flieger pony. With black or white dials available, the Pioneer Silva neatly balances different eras for a timeless look. Hanhart have had their fair share of the limelight in the past few years, mainly thanks … ContinuedThe post The Hanhart Pioneer Silva shows the brand aren’t a one-flieger pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite

Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and Mk II Reverse Panda Time+Tide
Aug 16, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and Mk II Reverse Panda

With a name like Pioneer, it should come as no surprise that the Hanhard Pioneer Mk I and Mk II have some significant historical relevance. Built around the ‘Calibre 40’ movement, these watches were originally designed in the late 1930s for German pilots and soon became fairly legendary. The now-iconic red accents on the bezel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and Mk II Reverse Panda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Mar 29, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

H. Moser & Cie.’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. While the watch combines elements found in past Moser watches, including the trademark fume dial, it does so in an novel manner, resulting in a watch that looks and feels different from the brand’s current offerings. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer tourbillon combines familiar elements in a novel manner, resulting in an interesting watch that stands apart from the rest of Moser’s offerings. Mechanically it is a variant of the calibre found in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020. The inclined time display of the earlier model has been eliminated, while the movement has been skeletonised in an unusual step for the brand, which has rarely offered skeleton watches in the past. Visually, the Pioneer tourbillon is not obviously a Moser at first glance, although the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is in a smoked blue that is associated with Moser. In fact, the styling of the watch brings to mind the skeletonised watches of Jaquet Droz. Still, the Pioneer tourbillon is interesting and novel enough that its CHF79,000 price tag is fair, putting it amongst the more appealing tourbillons in this affordable(ish) price segment. A sporty tourbillon The new Pioneer was conceived as a sports watch with a tourbillon. The Pioneer case is rated to 120 m of water resistance and positioned as Moser’s elegant sports watch (as opposed to the Streamliner that is an out-and-out spo...

Tutima M2 Pioneer In Bora Bora, Tahiti: An Aqua-Terrestrial Review (Somebody Had To Do It!) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Tutima Sep 1, 2021

Tutima M2 Pioneer In Bora Bora, Tahiti: An Aqua-Terrestrial Review (Somebody Had To Do It!) – Reprise

“The M2 Pioneer is a pilot’s watch,” Gustavo Calzadilla, Tutima’s U.S. president, stressed to Chris Malburg, explaining that it was not meant to be a diver’s watch. “True,” he countered. “But how often do watch fans ever get into the cockpit or strap on a scuba tank and jump into an 30-degree, gin-clear lagoon?” And that is just what Chris did. Dive in with him right here!

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition

Often our readers really respond to watches that are released by the less usual suspects. Something different and more approachable, that still serves up a serious level of quality and value to the prospective buyer. Hanhart may not be a household name, but it’s a storied German watch manufacture, established in 1882, with a rich … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Moser to discontinue Pioneer Cosmic Green, while Andrew talks about his Pioneer Midnight Blue on Monochrome Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie just announced Mar 6, 2021

Moser to discontinue Pioneer Cosmic Green, while Andrew talks about his Pioneer Midnight Blue on Monochrome

Editor’s note: In some kind of cosmic coincidence, Edouard Meylan from H. Moser & Cie just announced that the Cosmic Green Pioneer will be discontinued on the same day that our Dutch broers at Monochrome Watches published an interview with me about my discontinued Pioneer Midnight Blue as part of their Collector’s Series. Weird. “Following @moserwatches strategy … ContinuedThe post Moser to discontinue Pioneer Cosmic Green, while Andrew talks about his Pioneer Midnight Blue on Monochrome appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jan 6, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Introduces the Pioneer “Cure ALS”

H. Moser & Cie. has given its elegant take on the sports watch striking green livery in support of a good cause. The Pioneer “Cure ALS” is essentially an incentive for donations to Duke University’s research and treatment centre for amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), an incurable muscle-weakening disease – making the respective minimum-required donation gets you either of the two limited-edition watches. Both watches features the brand’s signature fume dials in striking, deep green. One is a simple three-hand watch, while the other is equipped with a flying tourbillon containing an impressive double-hairspring. Both watches have discreet lettering at six o’clock in a nod to the cause Initial thoughts Watches created to benefit good causes are heartening, particularly ones like the new Pioneer pair, where the entirety of the donation goes to the medical programme. Already an appealing watch, the Pioneer features many quintessential Moser characteristics – namely the dial finish and in-house movements – and is enhanced by its charitable nature. The brand’s most affordable steel sports watch, the Pioneer Centre Second “Cure ALS” features an upgrade over the ordinary version in the form of an 18k solid-gold rotor that replaces the standard tungsten rotor. However, design wise it is a bit too close to a standard model – the green dial is similar to that in the regular production variant, which is available in a different, but similar, shade of gre...

MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week

We love classic pilot watches. Tough, no-nonsense brushed steel case tools that are a faithful reminder of the aviation glory days of yesteryear. What we want is a simple, clear dial and legibility on point, and monochromatic efficiency. But what if we had all this as a base, for a fully customisable watch not always … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Jul 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red

H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...

The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2019

The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour

If you’ve ever picked up a glossy magazine or attended a major sporting event it should come as no surprise to learn that marketing is hugely significant in the world of watches. It’s also hugely expensive, competitive and, all-too-often, dull.  From awkward posed photographs with A-list celebrities, to baffling brand ambassadors and the most tenuous … ContinuedThe post The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A tourbillon for your every day – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Time+Tide
Oct 15, 2018

INTRODUCING: A tourbillon for your every day – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon

Expertly finished cases, captivating fumé dials, and incredibly fine watchmaking … these are a few of our favourite Moser things. And, once again, all three are combined in the “very rare” brand’s latest Pioneer offering – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon. More suitable for everyday wear, with a more robust steel case and a more casual … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A tourbillon for your every day – the Moser Pioneer Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Made to be seen – the Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds in Cosmic Green Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2018

VIDEO: Made to be seen – the Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds in Cosmic Green

Regular readers will be unsurprised to learn that we’re card-carrying fans of Moser’s Pioneer line here in the T+T office. Not only does it offer a dressed-down, somewhat less aristocratic option to the Moser family, but it also adds the joy of a steel case. Because while gold is very nice indeed, sometimes you’re happy … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Made to be seen – the Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds in Cosmic Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EXCLUSIVE: We have the third H. Moser & Cie video for the Pioneer collection and it’s one for the dads Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie video May 21, 2018

EXCLUSIVE: We have the third H. Moser & Cie video for the Pioneer collection and it’s one for the dads

I don’t know about you, but I’ve enjoyed H. Moser & Cie being around lately. They’ve put a smile on my dial, while creating some of the best examples of watch dials ever created. It’s like about five years of guffaws and loud sniggers, accrued through full-time work in the watch game, and previously hidden behind a hand, … ContinuedThe post EXCLUSIVE: We have the third H. Moser & Cie video for the Pioneer collection and it’s one for the dads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.