Time+Tide
Goodbye Divers Sixty-Five, hello Oris Divers Date
Small updates make a big difference, especially when they've been a long time coming.The post Goodbye Divers Sixty-Five, hello Oris Divers Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
26,503 articles · 257 videos found · page 220 of 892
Time+Tide
Small updates make a big difference, especially when they've been a long time coming.The post Goodbye Divers Sixty-Five, hello Oris Divers Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
If you’re following MONOCHROME, you might have witnessed the rather impressive rise of Yema, moving from a brand making nice, accessible vintage re-editions to now a strong advocate of French watchmaking, developing its own movements. For its latest creation, the Jura-based watchmaker is teaming up with renowned designer Alain Silberstein, bringing this new limited edition […]
Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw is one the most famous watchmakers in the Netherlands, and has gained fame for being possibly the best advocate of astronomical watches – in fact, this has even become the subtitle of the CVDK brand. Since 1974, this genius clock and watchmaker has produced some of the most beautiful and complicated […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! New Old Stock Royce Here is a nice little vintage Royce that looks to be New Old Stock. The unpolished 34mm stainless steel case has a pleasing rounded design with really nice fancy lugs that feature solid attached bars. As such, you’ll need a nato strap or one that is suited for welded strap bars. The salmon colored dial looks brand new (as it should), with stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9. It has slim leaf hands, with a stylish sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The watch comes with the original Royce hangtag, which is a nice touch. Seller states the watch runs, but no movement picture. View auction here Seiko Bullhead 6138-0049 The Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead is a great beast of a 1970’s knuckle dragger, but you just have to love this watch. Seiko made two versions, the black and blue, and the brown and gold. This brown and gold dialed version personifies the 1970’s look if you ask me. The huge steel case shows some wear but is unpolished and still shows the original brushed finish and sharp edges. The dial looks original and is in fantastic shape, same with the nicely lume filled hour and minute hands. These are called “Bullhead” because of the 12 o’clock location...
Monochrome
Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Nearly everything we regard as a modern luxury was once a military necessity. Okay, maybe that’s too broad a statement. But when you consider the impact of inventions like the Internet (set up as a Department of Defense communications network in 1969) and GPS navigation (which still uses military satellites from the 1970s) - not to mention the rise of the Jeep from humble troop conveyance to luxury SUV; the ubiquity of microwave ovens (which emerged from NATO radar experiments); and the enduring civilian stylishness of accessories like cargo pants and aviator sunglasses - a substantial case can be made that goods made to military specifications, or MIL-SPEC, have made an inestimable impact on everyday life. Nowhere is this influence seen more strongly than in the world of wristwatches - not only those intentionally designed for a military or tactical look, but in many styles and genres throughout the industry. From Waistcoat to War: Origin of the Wristwatch While it’s unlikely that a distinctly elegant timepiece, like a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, will put you in the mind of battlefields and trenches, the truth is that wristwatches themselves are essentially a military invention - at least, the ones designed for men. Women had been wearing timepieces on pendants and bracelets for decades, since the middle of the 19th Century, but it was the utilitarian needs of soldiers in World War I that ushered them into general usage for ...
Quill & Pad
The Angelus U41 Orange has an aesthetic that is more Richard Mille than Das Boot. At a launch price of $34,400, the notion of a tourbillon that can be enjoyed without care is compelling, and Angelus leans into it.
Quill & Pad
While GaryG thinks it’s all the more impressive that designers continue to delight us with new looks, many watches are often very similar. And trying to describe the slippery slope from vague resemblance to outright theft is not a simple task. So he begins down at the lower end of the grade with so-called homage watches and moves up the GaryG Styling Statute of Limitations from there.
Monochrome
Over the past few years, Swiss watchmaker Formex has managed to build quite a solid reputation by delivering impressive horological content for a fair price. While some focus on complications, Formex decided to create watches that are solid, resistant and mostly, packed with practicality. A very pragmatic approach centred around the user. This idea is […]
Hodinkee
This New York City native is bringing 47th Street to SoHo.
Fratello
Surprise, surprise! Swatch will offer the Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch for sale online in the United States and China starting today. Most likely, the brand chose these countries because they have huge areas without any Swatch boutiques nearby. But while they are the first, with some luck, they won’t be the last. The online […] Visit The Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch - Now Available For Purchase Online! to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...
Monochrome
Since its creation in 1966, the Doxa SUB 300 has become one of the most emblematic dive watches around, with its quirky design and its no-deco bezel. And always with the crown at 3 o’clock… Until now. The new Doxa SUB 300T Aristera is specifically designed with the crown positioned at 9 o’clock, making it […]
Worn & Wound
When I think of Victorinox, only one thing comes to mind: their iconic Swiss Army knife. Growing up in the scout program, I thought that a Swiss Army knife was the coolest thing ever, even if I couldn’t find one with the perfect tool set. Years later I’ve come to learn that Victorinox has an impressive line of products, ranging from iconic multi-tools, travel gear, fragrances, and of course, watches. When the Dive Pro landed on my desk, I was quite intrigued with its angular design and rugged appearance. Throughout this review, we’ll take a look at the technical specs and ultimately my opinion on the watches in general. The Dive Pro line from Victorinox is an extension of their dive watch offering with eight new references, bringing an increased depth rating of 300 meters, new case materials, and some bold colorways. While all of the new Dive Pro watches feature a 43mm case, faceted unidirectional bezels, and sapphire crystals, you have the option of two case materials: 316L Stainless Steel and Grade 2 Titanium. I feel that both of these materials were carefully selected for their unique properties they bring to the table. While titanium is a lighter material with more inherent corrosion resistance, these benefits come at a cost, literally. Stainless steel provides slightly less corrosion resistance but can be machined much easier allowing the material to be manufactured to the same quality at a cheaper price. Depending on the environments you expect to dive in, you ...
Quill & Pad
You can like everything, but you can’t buy – or keep – everything! Inevitably, the choices involved lead at times to regrets; for GaryG, along with many of his pals, the sadness is much more often about pieces they sold too soon or failed to buy rather than pieces they were sorry about buying in the first place. Here's a story of shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Teddy Baldassarre
Sometimes, our editorial meetings produce the sort of nerdy, off-topic conversations that make us pause and say, "Wait, this should be an article." Okay, more than sometimes. As our team grows, it's become clearer that we should be sharing our takes (hot, cold, or lukewarm) here on the site for your reading pleasure – or just to stir the pot a bit. Today's topic of choice is the idea of expressing what we each would consider to be a one-watch collection. It's important to note that these picks are purely subjective and derive from the minds of our editorial staff. Our hope is that this thought exercise gets you thinking about what a one-watch collection might look like for you. So with that in mind, enjoy this story and let us know what you think of our choices in the comments! Danny Milton, VP of Content Not to spoil anything, but the team really went for it with the picks in our first real editor’s roundup here at Teddy. It’s hard to argue with any of the choices because – well – they represent the tastes and opinions of each individual writer. My approach to something like a one-watch collection is complex, perhaps unnecessarily so. My instinct tells me to go Rolex, but then I start to think about scenarios in my life in which I think “maybe I am not comfortable with a Rolex here.” It does happen. So then my mind delves into the more attainable price segment where I want to identify something bulletproof, something that packs undeniable value. If you’re ...
Monochrome
As a platform dedicated to fine watchmaking and a deeply rooted passion for independent watchmaking, the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (or AHCI) is very close to our hearts. This institution, preserving the traditions of watchmaking by forming a community of watchmakers, was founded by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese. It has brought forth many illustrious […]
Hodinkee
It's one of the closest Olympic finishes in history. Let's look at how close 0.005 seconds really is.
Monochrome
Usually, when it comes to Seiko Prospex dive watches, and specifically with an emblematic design as the 62Mas, it’s all about black or dark blue. But there are exceptions to the rule and the Japanese watchmaker has shown greater creativity in recent years – take a look at the Save the Ocean series, for instance. […]
The post Out of Office: A Route 66 Roadtrip with the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “Sepia” appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Glamour is alive and well. Momentum for 1970s design-led watches on the red carpet is still going strong.
Time+Tide
Adam and Zach discuss the recent Kith Heuer Formula 1 collaboration and the reaction to it - which Zach has dubbed "horological hooliganism".The post Did TAG Heuer x Kith get it wrong? Zach and RedBar founder Adam Craniotes talk watch collabs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...
Monochrome
Behind the name Jacques Bianchi is actually a man who, during the 1980s, in his workshop based in Marseille (south of France) produced watches for French military divers. Working closely with COMEX and Jacques Mayol or Captain Cousteau, he was an important figure there. In 2021, the brand made a resounding comeback, faithfully reissuing the […]
Monochrome
One of the most revered and respected names in the world of watchmaking, and certainly in the independent watchmaking scene, is Kari Voutilainen. The Finnish watchmaker is an expert in ‘wrapping’ the most brilliantly hand-finished movements in beautiful discrete cases with tear-drop lugs. With 20 years of track record as an Independent watchmaker and more […]
Happy Memorial Day Weekend! While, yes, there is a genuine day of remembrance on Monday, it’s also the weekend that unofficially marks the beginning of Summer. So, you’re probably enjoying your relaxing Sunday morning and having a cup of coffee. And what goes perfectly with coffee? A Week in Watches, of course! On episode 81, we discuss some rather Summer-y new releases from Zodiac, Vertex, and Ming, as well as the new Toledano and Chan. The latter is more of a somber Winter morning, but we’ll let that slide. If you enjoy this episode, please like and subscribe; we appreciate it! This week’s episode is brought to you by William Wood, who is celebrating the release of their new Dunkirk watch. Continuing William Wood’s inspired homages to fire fighting, the Swiss-made bronze nautical watch is in collaboration with the Massey Shaw. This London fire brigade boat rescued over 600 lives off the beaches of Dunkirk in World War II. Head to WilliamWoodWatches.com to learn more and make a purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 81: The Return of the Ming Diver appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Imagine you're back in high school and the bell rings for lunch. Which 'table' of watch collectors do you sit with? Our community got creative with their answers.The post Horological high school: what watch clique do you belong to? Here’s what you had to say appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The trajectory of Sartory Billard over the last few years has been one of the most unusual and interesting stories in the world of independent watchmaking. The brand had long been established as a leader in fully bespoke watches. The entire premise of the brand was built on the idea that every piece is unique, with wide customization options available to virtually every aspect of the dial. They’ve also been associated with great value, and were generally seen as an affordable option for adventurous fans of independent watchmaking who wanted something literally unique well under five figures. None of that has changed, really, but Sartory Billard’s recent output has seen them upping the ante considerably, with a new tourbillon movement and plans for an even more complex caliber featuring jumping hours and jumping minutes. Another example: a new collaboration with Grail Watch featuring an incredibly ornate and over-the-top mirror finish on nearly every visible surface. Grail Watch 11, the Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost,” takes the brand’s integrated bracelet sports watch design and a design motif they’ve become known for and turns the proverbial volume up past the breaking point. Of the many options Sartory Billard offers to customers in their customization program, one particularly popular one is their fully polished dial. The SB07 seen here takes that idea and expands it to the case and bracelet, effectively making the steel components “invisible,” hence the ...
Hodinkee
Incomplete and totally subjective, but the first big auction season is in the books, so it's time to talk about some of the results, good and bad.
Monochrome
Microbrands are reshaping today’s watchmaking landscape in remarkable ways. These small-scale ventures craft enticing timepieces, leveraging modern technology, marketing strategies, and the combined expertise, passion, vision, and business acumen. What’s particularly striking, at least for some, is their ability to deliver well-designed, high-quality watches at compelling prices, often packed with features typically associated with much […]
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