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Fratello
Welcome to the Season 2 finale of Fratello Talks. As we come to the end of the year, we’ll be looking back at some of the best watches of 2024. Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex, who have come prepared with a list of favorites under six pre-determined categories. And though they’ll discuss some […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
Since 2017, Maen has released numerous high-quality watches that blend retro touches with modern style. Now the brand is back with the new Manhattan 40, an upsized take on the popular 37mm model. Per the company’s normal course, versions with and without a date are available for order. There’s also a special stone-dial option for […] Visit Introducing: The Maen Manhattan 40 With Dials In Blue, Copper Salmon, And Jade to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
My year in watches began in a fog of Covid that led to the purchase of a James Lamb Origin Series, an acquisition that set the tone for the rest of the year in both how my own watch collection would continue to take shape, and in how I approached my role at Worn & Wound. The theme of this year, for me, has really been brewing for the last several, but 2024 was when I really began to hone in on the importance of independent watch brands across the entire spectrum of the watch landscape, and independence in our hobby and in watch media. When I purchased the James Lamb, I made no official declarations or formal decisions about shutting out big brand purchases for the remainder of the year, but in my head the idea had been taking shape for some time. Conversations with colleagues and other watch enthusiasts had led me to the conclusion that while big luxury brands are certainly capable of making very high quality watches that are desirable and objectively “good,” they had come to feel a bit stale, almost sterile, in comparison to watches like the James Lamb, which seemed born out of a burst of creativity. It was also impossible not to notice the traditional microbrand scene growing by leaps and bounds, with many brands offering bits of real craft and flourishes of genuine watchmaking inspiration at a truly approachable price point. Why, I wondered, would anyone pay even more than I paid for my Origin Series for a watch made from the Swiss equivalent of a cookie cutter? ...
Fratello
At the end of every year, we like to reflect on all the watch goodness we have seen. In good tradition, Seiko has graced us with a consistent stream of new releases. So, as we do every year, it is time to look back at the Seiko releases from the past 12 months. This article […] Visit A Condensed Guide To Seiko Releases From 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s time for a look at the best watches of 2024, according to me! These lists can be challenging to compile because the year is long and sees many releases. I’ve managed to winnow it down to seven picks, though, so let’s begin. Choosing the best watches of 2024 marked a change for me. In […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s been a great year over on Worn & Wound+, our dedicated Slack channel for Worn & Wound readers, and watch and gear enthusiasts of all kinds. At the moment, we have over 1,000 people from all over the world in our Slack channel talking about watches and many, many other topics. There are dedicated channels to discuss EDC and gear, movies and television, photography, and more. There’s a marketplace channel where members can safely buy and sell watches, and there are channels where members can arrange local in-person or virtual watch meetups. It’s also, of course, a great place get insider info on deals from the Windup Watch Shop – you never know what watches might turn up for sale in the Slack channel before they’re made available anywhere else. All that said, it’s the great watch discussions that are really at the heart of Worn & Wound+, so as the year draws to a close, we thought we’d ask members of the Worn & Wound+ community to tell us about some of their favorite new releases of the year. And if you’re still not signed up for Worn & Wound+, be sure to hit this link and check it out. It’s completely free, and we’d love to see you join the community. Andrew Iveagh – Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” As a long time Tudor stan, it pains me to say my favorite of 2024 was the Omega Speedmaster FOIS. Between the reduced size, the blue gray dial, and the tan/fauxtina lume, it’s a vintage inspired lover’s dream. I’m usually a dive/g...
SJX Watches
As we look back on the year, we take pride in the stories we’ve shared and extend our sincere appreciation to all our readers for their support. As 2024 draws to a close, we revisit some of our standout features, spanning in-depth explorations of complex movements, historical perspectives on timekeeping, and comprehensive reviews of the latest watch releases. Our founder SJX looked at some of the most significant watches to emerge in 2024, including the record-setting F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Égalité “15/93” prototype, and the fascinating Patek Philippe ref. 767 grand complication with double split-chronographs (which means triple elapsed time measurement) that was acquired by none other than the Patek Philippe Museum. Together with David Ichim, he also co-authored a series of stories explaining notable Rolex innovations, including the brand’s most complicated watch, the Sky-Dweller; the instantaneous Day-Date; and the Deepsea with its unparalleled pressure resistance. Based in Seattle, Brandon Moore nonetheless travelled to Geneva, where he visited the Vacheron Constantin manufacture in Geneva suburb Plan-les-Ouates and the Akrivia workshops in the city’s historic Old Town. Brandon also managed to visit the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts exhibition at the brand’s Geneva Salon, resulting in his photoessay. And in between all that, he pondered the last two decades of the perpetual calendar’s evolution, a span that has arguably given birth to s...
Fratello
Lists - don’t you love ‘em? Well, I do. Unlike Lex, our resident Grinch, I love a good list. That should come as no surprise, though, as I am Fratello’s in-house list fanatic. It was interesting to read that Lex likes to look forward to what’s to come rather than looking back at what has […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More to read the full article.
Deployant
Christmas is the season of joy. To a watch enthusiast, hardly anything in this world brings more joy than his or her dream watches. A watch enthusiast also understands that these watches are often not easily attainable. Nevertheless, here at Deployant, we like to dream a little and then leave the rest to Father Christmas.Read More
Time+Tide
We take a look at two variants of one of Ulysse Nardin's most visually engaging watches.The post Blue and rose gold or black DLC titanium: which Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...
Hodinkee
The definitive telling of the last 29 years at Audemars Piguet, from the man himself.
Hodinkee
One of the world's top purveyors of luxury goods adds a 36mm mechanical sports watch to its catalog, adding further illustration of just how much business is booming at Hermès.
Time+Tide
We take a look at some common theories behind the design of Rolex's signature hour hand.The post What’s the story behind Rolex’s iconic “Mercedes” hands? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Alcadus Quantra is a striking example of how a microbrand can evolve, delivering a product that competes with more established microbrands at higher price points. From its tasteful design and refined build quality to its thoughtful packaging and enjoyable unboxing experience, this watch encapsulates a level of sophistication that is rare at its price […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02 to read the full article.
Fratello
Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black […] Visit Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette Coming in with the heat to start this week, with this very cool and very rare vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette LED watch. This super-futuro watch debuted in 1976 and is so iconic that GP reissued it as a heritage edition in 2022. But this here is the O.G. GP LED (sorry, I had to do that…), and it even comes with the original box. What makes this model unique is the side view ‘drivers’ design where the LED window is inset, giving it an old school computer console look. The 32mm wide steel case is in good shape, unpolished and still showing the original brushed finish. It comes on the original bracelet, although the seller states it will only fit up to a 7” wrist. The watch works well with no missing LED segments, however one of the buttons is a little sticky per the seller. The watch comes with the original box, which is a little beat up. Still, this is a really nice example of an exceptional watch. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7006-8040 Here’s one that is a little simpler, a straight forward vintage Seiko 7006-8040 on the original bracelet. This is your classic 1970’s sporty/dress Seiko, with a silver dial, day/date window at 3 o...
Hodinkee
A peek behind the scenes at the German watchmaker.
Worn & Wound
At the end of last year, we made “resolutions,” and while I forgot we had done that until writing this post, I stayed pretty true to what I had said. I wanted to consolidate, focus, and potentially go big on a watch for my 40th birthday. I had to do the first to make the last part come true, and the second just kind of happened naturally. My tastes have changed quite a bit over the last two years, perhaps starting with the Bel Canto (shameless review plug). As such, I find myself drawn to a specific type of indie watch more and more, and frankly, I find most releases from large brands kind of boring. While that might be more of a “it’s not you, it’s me” kind of thing, I don’t see it changing anytime soon. But, back to my birthday, turning 40 was something I ignored until it was upon me. I’m not a big birthday celebration guy, but 40 felt different; it’s a bit of a terrifying number, thus it needed to be marked meaningfully. And, well, I can’t turn down a good opportunity to horologically spoil myself. However, to go big, I had to let several things go. While I’ll avoid the details, all said and done, I sold six watches and traded one, though in fairness, not all before making my purchase (you know how it is). I went down a rabbit hole of options, obsessing, as I tend to do, to such an extent that I even dreamed about scrolling Chrono24. Custom pieces, indies, vintage, big Swiss, maybe nothing; I pondered them all, even creating renders of potential be...
Hodinkee
The new collaborative release from the historic American company and young collecting community offers real stone dials at affordable prices.
Worn & Wound
Since their founding in 2020, Beaucroft has worked to blend historic timekeeping techniques with a bit of modern style to create watches at an affordable price point and attract a new generation of watch enthusiasts. Located in Cambridge, England, this independent British brand has partnered with Horologium for final assembly, testing, and regulation, creating a collection of watches with notable British provenance. Beaucroft’s newest watch, the Element, aims to become your new “GADA” (Go Anywhere, Do Anything”) watch with a touch of modern flair while retaining classic sport watch features. With six different dial colors currently available, you can find an Element to be as bold, or as stealthy, as you want. Within the independent and micro-brand space, first impressions of a brand are a critical moment in the relationship with the consumer, setting a tone that will either be reinforced or broken over time. For many consumers out there, the unboxing of a watch is often this first impression, as many of our favorite brands ship directly to consumers. While unboxing the Beaucroft for the first time, I was greeted with a dark teal leather service pouch, embossed with Beaucroft’s logo on the front flap. While service pouches are quite common in the industry, I always like seeing one included with a watch as it allows your watch to have a transportable “home”, for those moments when it does leave your wrist. More so, it gives an appearance that the brand knows ...
Hodinkee
A closer look at a sleeper watch with an unexpected complication.
Yes. It’s the holiday gift guide to end all gift guides. When the grid goes down and there’s nowhere else to run, we’ve gathered the ultimate guide of goods for surviving the zombie apocalypse in style. Helmed by the Orienteering Quota 8611, created by our friends at Terra Cielo Mare-a younger sibling to the watch worn by Brad Pitt’s character in the Hollywood epic World War Z-these essentials are designed to help you hide, hunker, and hike your way out of harm’s way. Infected or not, these gifts are ideal for that fan of the genre, or that gear-minded guru in your life. Now follow us into the abyss through a series of journal entries discovered from the zombie apocalypse that could have been. Journal Entry – Day 8 of the Zombie Apocalypse – 9:12 AM I glance at my wristwatch to check the time. It’s been three hours since we last heard the inhuman howls of the undead. Thankfully, the large, lumed numerals on the dial of this 44mm, burly timepiece are easy to read. They were absolutely everywhere, and the only thing standing between me and becoming their next meal was my Terra Cielo Mare Orienteering Quota 8611. Its rugged, Italian design was perfect for the chaos, but it was the internal bezel compass feature that truly saved me. As the horde closed in, I rotated the bezel to align with my escape route. Thanks to the precise markings and the luminous dial, I could navigate the streets with ease. The shock-resistant build held up as I scrambled over ru...
Monochrome
The Rolex Submariner is among the most iconic watches of the brand’s entire portfolio and even the choice of James Bond (in the earlier years, at least), but the GMT-Master series is up there in popularity as well, and arguably the most iconic traveller’s watch from any brand. It lived alongside the Explorer II models […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The FXD is a watch that gets under your skin. Since Tudor introduced this strange offshoot of the Pelagos collection at the end of 2021, it’s turned into something of a fan favorite, and while it’s not without its detractors, Tudor has steadily fleshed out the concept into a full fledged collection. The newest member of that collection, the FXD GMT, is arguably the most versatile of the bunch, delivering on an often-requested feature set without compromising the size of the case. On paper, the FXD GMT is the full package, but practical chops are only half the story when it comes to the ultimate charm of this watch. On personality, the latest FXD has some ground to cover, and after spending a week with the watch, it very nearly gets there. Released into the Pelagos collection (where it remains to this day), the FXD was originally a spec-built dive watch for the French Navy, aka the Marine Nationale. Today's models represent a return to a relationship that began in the 1950s, when Tudor provided dive watches for the French Navy's Underwater Study and Research Group. As such, the watch is more than a mere co-branding exercise. The design of the watch, which uses a fixed-lug construction (FXD) for which it is named, is based on the needs of a very niche group of individuals. These needs included a bi-directional countdown bezel, a quality-of-life feature for divers navigating via dead reckoning at relatively shallow depths. The result was a rather unusual watch, but one t...
Teddy Baldassarre
Just over two years ago, Longines launched the Ultra-Chron, a revival of the super-accurate 1968 original that gained notoriety as the world’s first high-frequency diver. Now Longines has released the Ultra-Chron Carbon, which is the brand’s first watch with a case made from carbon fiber, which, of course, is known for its lightweight durability. The watch, in fact, comes in at just 80 grams for the case and strap. The original Ultra-Chron Diver Ref. 7970 from 1968 was a cushion-cased steel watch that measured 41mm wide with 200 meters of water resistance. It was outfitted with the 5Hz Caliber 431 movement, which was accurate to 2 seconds per day. Our resident expert Mark Bernardo went into all the details of this model as well as the brand’s history with high-frequency timekeeping, in an article you can read here. The 2022 revival was a little bigger, coming in at 43mm wide, but also beefed up the water resistance to 300 meters. This new Ultra-Chron Carbon shares the same basic specs as this revival model but the blacked-out design kind of makes all the difference in terms of style versatility. Rather than a red minutes hand and matching red accents on the bezel, we see a sleek, monochrome aesthetic that is more stealth than sporty. The use of a contemporary material like carbon also offsets some of that overt “vintage-inspired” design language in favor of its own identity. The cushion-shaped case measures 43mm wide and 14mm thick with a 48mm lug-to-lug measu...
Monochrome
Born in 1953 as a tool watch for mountaineering, the original Explorer (a.k.a Explorer I) is a rugged, time-only piece for just about any occasion. Although relatively unchanged at its core, the Explorer has seen many updates with a dozen or so reference numbers in its 70+ years of existence. The Rolex Explorer II launched […]
SJX Watches
At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...
Worn & Wound
Over the next few weeks, members of the Worn & Wound team will offer their own personal reflections on their year in watches. Today, photographer Garrett Jones on turning his enthusiasm into a full time job in the watch industry, and acquiring his grail watch. The last year has been a wild ride, from meeting and joining the team here at Worn & Wound, reaching new heights among the Canadian Rockies, and even buying my long time watch grail, the Omega Speedmaster. I think it’s safe to say that each of these events on their own were major milestones, but the fact that this all happened within the last year is truly mind blowing. In December of 2023, I flew from NYC to Austin, TX to hang out with some friends, and meet the Worn & Wound team. Unknowingly, this trip to Texas would begin a months-long journey resulting in me joining the team full time, something I couldn’t have dreamed of in my wildest imagination. Just about a month after this meeting, I’d have my first article published on the blog, and several more would come out before I joined the team fulltime in May. While most people might feel nervous as they start a new job, I’ve never felt so excited (and nervous) as I did, especially since my “first” day was flying out to San Francisco for the Windup Watch Fair. At that point, I’d already met most of the team, and even worked with a few of them, but this would be the first time I got to truly “dive in” and work alongside everyone. Despite being a...
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