Revolution
Time Trial: Wei Koh Takes on the 2021 Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Having spent a few days with the 2021 Black Bay Chrono as his daily beater, Wei Koh gives us his take on the latest generation of Tudor’s beloved chronograph.
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Revolution
Having spent a few days with the 2021 Black Bay Chrono as his daily beater, Wei Koh gives us his take on the latest generation of Tudor’s beloved chronograph.
Deployant
We bring you our hands-on review, with live pics and video of the Hermès Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes which was announced in September 2020.
Quill & Pad
Chambertin, one of the truly great names in the world of wine, is an appellation created in 1937. The range of vineyards throughout the region, different makers, and various vintages all provide variations on the theme, but in general these wines tend to the fuller, firmer style of Burgundy. Ken Gargett explains why these wines are so special.
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The sub-seconds or petite seconds display is as traditional as early wrist wear gets. Originally the layout of choice for pocket watches, early adaptations of the wrist watch also adopted the sub-seconds layout. Today, we select three of the most captivating sub-seconds timepieces released in Watches & Wonders 2021 that you should know about.
Quill & Pad
The Cohiba Maduro 5 consists of three cigars – all using maduro leaf as wrapper, which gives the cigars a much darker, almost chocolaty appearance. These are upper leaves that have been through fermentation but have seen five years' worth of aging, more than twice the norm. And that's only part of why Ken Gargett thinks these Cuban cigars are so special.
Revolution
Revolution discusses independent watchmaking and the future of Parmigiani Fleurier with its recently appointed CEO, Guido Terreni.
Quill & Pad
In his occasional series on great wines of the world, Ken Gargett tells the story of an extraordinary pigeon pair, Lindeman’s Twin Bin wines from 1965, the Hunter Burgundies Bin 3110 and Bin 3100. Their story is fascinating and includes drought, overproduction, grapes that were far riper than usual when picked, and a mysterious dollop of Pinot Noir. The result is one of the world's greatest wines.
SJX Watches
With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation. Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions. The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client. Wilhelm Schmid, working from home The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about. Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1. We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standal...
Time+Tide
Writing this I feel the need to put on a double-breasted suit. But even then, I suspect that I still wouldn’t feel suitably attired for an encounter with Le Temps Celeste, a trio of wrist art within Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron’s upper echelon of historical and ultra-complex timepieces. Consider these mere examples of the bespoke possibilities … ContinuedThe post Le Temps Celeste, 3 pieces of next-level craftsmanship from the inner sanctum of Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....
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In this week's column, we take a look at some of our favourite novelties from the recently concluded Watches and Wonders 2021.
Quill & Pad
England’s 'Decanter' magazine's judges selected the House of Arras E.J. Carr Late Disgorged 2004 as the best sparkling wine of 2020 against top competition including the 2006 Krug champagne. Here Ken Gargett takes a look at just how good this Tasmanian wine producer is.
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Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
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Chopard released a slew of L.U.C watches this year, as it is the 25th Anniversary of the series. Here are our picks for the top 4 of the LU.C novelties.
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The premier episode of the A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseurs Conversations was streamed live on Watches & Wonders site earlier today. Video within.
Revolution
Patek Philippe’s outgoing steel Nautilus 5711 is given one last hurrah with an olive green dial for its end of series edition, the reference 5711/1A-014
Quill & Pad
Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.
SJX Watches
Despite their long-established global prominence, brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are relatively new to the Iranian consumer, even among the affluent sections of society – Rolex reigns supreme in Iran’s luxury watch market. The brand’s position as the most enduring luxury watch brand in Iran is likely stronger than in most other countries. Perhaps the truest reflection of this are the countless, tiny shops across the country that have windows filled with a bewildering variety of counterfeit Rolex watches – their number far greater than stores selling Casio and Seiko, the brands that probably sell in the greatest volumes. Rolex has a long history in Iran, one that’s been shaped by events in the country. The Rolex coronet has been an uninterrupted presence on the streets of Tehran since the early 1950s, making it a witness to much of Iran’s 20th century history. As many a watch collector would know, the Shah of Iran was a well-known patron of the brand, even commissioning a unique model, the Day-Date ref. 1831. Resembling an Oysterquartz with its angular case, the ref. 1831 was a run of just eight watches, all in platinum. Rolex was already present in Iran for some decades before, but having the Shah as a client help cement its unique position amongst the country’s governing class. An example of the Day-Date ref. 1831 with a burgundy “Stella” dial. Another example with a blue dial is pictured at the top of the article. Images – Phillips W...
Time+Tide
The future is electric, let’s face it. For me it’s inescapable, my wife’s hybrid Audi A3 is plugged in outside, and I live in a country (Norway) where the most sold new car last year was the all-electric Tesla Model 3. So yes, there’s an unstoppable shift and it will also soon be coming through … ContinuedThe post Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’ve probably heard of NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) over the last month or so and for good reason. NFTs are exploding in popularity, seemingly out of nowhere. If you haven’t come across NFTs, or haven’t yet tried to wrap your head around the initially impenetrable world of cryptocurrency and blockchain as they collide with collectible markets, … ContinuedThe post WTF is a “luxury watch NFT” and why is Jean-Claude Biver selling one of his watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: If you haven’t seen City on a Hill yet then start blocking out your evenings. Imagine The Wire transplanted to the mean streets of Boston and you start to get some idea of this wildly ambitious drama. While a gritty police investigation forms the narrative spine, swirling out from that is a lurid … ContinuedThe post City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Panerai, the Italian masters of undersea naval exploration, excel at the art of the well-executed dive watch, a genre typically associated with sturdy cases made from steel, titanium and the like. But Panerai’s distinctive cushions can also be found in a sophisticated array of high-tech materials, as well as one perhaps even more surprising, gold. Or rather, Goldtech.
Quill & Pad
“Time” is a topic often explored by artists, although it doesn’t even hold a candle to “love.” However, “time” is Elizabeth Doerr's topic, so her ears perk up when she catches a particularly poignant song about it. Recently, she has begun to think a bit more about these songs as both they and she (gracefully) age. Here she shares five cool songs about time with some background.
Revolution
Max Büsser brings us through the journey that has been the MB&F; Legacy Machine family of watches, 10 years on since the LM1 was introduced. He recounts the challenges that lay ahead of him in creating MB&F;’s second collection and the friends who were there along the way to help realize the aptly named Legacy Machine timepieces.
SJX Watches
Though MB&F; was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM). It’s hard to believe, but the LM collection is a decade old now (and MB&F; itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F; has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series. Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon. The LMX in pink gold Initial thoughts Compared to the original LM1, the LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milest...
Revolution
Here’s a look at the golden era of Seiko’s chronographs, from the first wrist stopwatch through to the last advanced movements the Japanese brand made before shifting to quartz in the 1980s.
Deployant
Genus releases a new version of their GNS 1 with a dragon motif. Named the Genus GNS 1.2 Dragon. Here is the release details.
Revolution
With the incredible success of the Speedmaster line, Omega’s chief Raynald Aeschlimann is also now lifting up the Seamaster family with three new watches which together form an impressive second act for Omega in 2021 following the massively successful new Speedmaster launch.
Quill & Pad
In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.
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Panerai first released the Luminor Marina with blue dial PAM01313 in 2020. The watch is a permanent model in the Luminor collection and is a contemporary staple of the brand.
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