Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Audacious Design Of 1970s Patek
The '70s gave way to experimental design across the board. Was Patek Philippe the clear victor of ingenuity?
Results for Equation of Time
33,565 articles · 3,243 videos found · page 221 of 1227
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum
Seiko has unveiled a limited-edition iteration of its vintage-inspired timepiece, the King Seiko. The King Seiko SJE095 features a textured dial adorned with a uniquely Japanese motif-a geometric pattern known as kiku tsunagi-mon inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. Save for the patterned dial, the limited edition maintains the compact case profile found in the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 was earlier this year. Initial thoughts While the latest King Seiko models have a notably streamlined case, the stylistic resemblance to the original from 1965 bordered on being a vintage remake. Fortunately, Seiko has decided to create a standout iteration (albeit a limited edition) that, as is often the case with Seiko and Grand Seiko, pays homage to Japanese culture in the dial decoration. The highlight is the intricate geometric pattern on the dial. Besides evoking traditional Japanese cut-glassware, the engraving possesses a degree of elegance, while upholding a sense of balance in the dial. The balance could have been improved if the date window were absent, allowing the engraving to run uninterrupted across the dial. This limited edition carries a price of US$3,400, just US$100 more than the standard King Seiko. The small difference makes this a no-brainer over the regular production model, though it can be argued this is somewhat pricey in absolute terms for a mid-range Seiko model. Rooted in tradition This limited edition draws substantial inspiration from the chrysanthe...
Deployant
New: Pictures of the Petermann-Bédat X Auffret Paris Only Watch
Earlier images of the Petermann-Bédat X Theo Auffret Only Watch Chronomètre d'Observatoire were sletcjes, here are the photographs of the actual watch.
Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem: Reflections of a Laser Physicist on ‘Saxem’
In early 2023, Hublot introduced the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem, featuring a case made of a mysterious and rather impressive-looking crystal called Saxem. It looked like an addition to the brand's extensive line of sapphire watches. But as a retired laser physicist, I wondered: what material was behind that name? Perhaps a special kind of synthetic sapphire?
Worn & Wound
Zodiac Celebrates 70 Years of the Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver with a New Huckberry Collaborative Limited Edition
Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement. The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...
Video
IN-DEPTH: The Most Elegant of Luxury Sports Watches? Exploring the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF
Worn & Wound
Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation
Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through. First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase. The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...
Worn & Wound
Exploring the Importance of the Watch Strap
Editor’s Note: If you’re a particular type of watch enthusiast, you might know Stephen Damico from his website, Strap Sense. Strap Sense is one of those little corners of watch enthusiasm that can only exist in a space filled with people who are truly passionate about their hobby. It’s a blog devoted entirely to strap reviews, with every bit as much attention and care paid to the intricacies of a strap as we pay to watches here on Worn & Wound. We love straps, and appreciate the huge variety of straps of all kinds that are out there to be mixed and match, and we’re excited that Stephen will occasionally be writing about some of the straps that are of most interest to him right here on these pages. Today, before any formal reviews, we asked Stephen to introduce himself, and tell us about why he feels the watch strap is worthy of such a close analysis. I have a saying I often use on my website that informs how I approach writing about straps: a watch strap tells the story wherein the watch is the main character. It is all about the story – it is who we are. Entire marketing campaigns are built around creating and curating a story, and we all wear watches to help tell our story. One day we can be a diver, another an astronaut, and by the weekend we are a super spy or royalty. Mark Twain once said, “I like a good story well told. That is the reason I am sometimes forced to tell them myself.” There is nobody on earth more qualified to help you tell your sto...
Worn & Wound
Wempe Adds a Trio of New Watches to their Iron Walker Collection
For the better part of two decades, Wempe has been producing high-quality watches out of their home in Glashütte, Germany. Three new models from their Iron Walker collection have been released, each exhibiting the Vorliebe that our Teutonic cousins have for precision, beauty, and exceptional quality. The first to debut in the new Iron Walker collection is the Diver. Taking inspiration from the steel constructions that defined the era of imagination in 1920’s New York, the Diver marries the simplicity of a good watch and the beauty of a great watch into one. At 42mm, it’s a robust size but the overall finish, such as the diminutive day date and the lumed hands, help to keep it from feeling too bulky. The Diver comes in two colorways (blue and black), is water-resistant to 30 bars, and runs on a ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, giving the wearer up to 50 hours of power reserve. Next up in the Iron Walker collection is Tide. Mixing maritime influences to the collection, this watch is as much about function as it is about form. While one could enjoy the balance of blue and black against the steel case alone, the real beauty is the internal mechanism of this watch. For life on the coast, the Tide’s rotating bezel offers maximum visibility on how much time will elapse between the next low or high tide. Similar to the Diver above, the Tide shares similar specs, such as an ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, 30 bars of water-resistance, and lumed hands and hour markers. Last, ...
Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original’s Latest Limited Edition Continues their Recent Tradition of Fun, 70s Inspired Chronographs
In what is becoming an unlikely summer tradition Glashütte Original is back with a pair of chronographs in fun, 1970s inspired colors. For each of the last two years, the German brand has introduced limited edition versions of their excellent Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, an integrated bracelet sports watch that you’d be forgiven for forgetting was in GO’s catalog given that the lion’s share of watch enthusiast attention is placed on the watches that make up the Pano collection. Their vintage inspired designs, however, tap into a completely different, funky aesthetic that the brand owns every bit as convincingly as the more formal watches under the Pano umbrella, and the annual release of colorful, limited edition chronos has become a highlight. While Glashütte Original has opted for loud and bright colors in past limited edition drops, this year they’ve gone for something a little more muted. The “Golden Bay” chronograph is in an unusual ochre shade, and appears as a somewhat dull golden tone. It vaguely resembles a dial that might have been exposed to weather and harsh sunlight for decades, which fits into the 70s vibe nicely. The “Ocean Breeze” variant is a more obviously seasonal shade of light blue, clearly inspired by summer beach getaways. Both variants have a matte lacquer finish, and are accented with black subdials for the chronograph. It’s worth noting here that the chronograph functionality in this reference is anything but run of...
Deployant
Six Best Bets For Novel Use Of Materials In A Watch Case
A quick survey of watches with cases made with novel use of non-traditional materials. We pick six of the best and discuss the tech.
Video
Revelot Hexmariner unboxing - a watch one of YOU discovered for me, AND I LOVE IT!!
Quill & Pad
In Praise of Anglage: Exceptional Hand-Finished Anglage is Difficult, Slow, and Expensive so the Big Brands have Given Up and Few Seem to Have Noticed (or Seem to Care): Thank God for the Indies! – Reprise
Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?
![[VIDEO] Returning to The Windy City: A Recap of Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/07/L1170986.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Returning to The Windy City: A Recap of Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023
When we sent out to launch the first-ever Chicago Windup Watch Fair last year, we didn’t know what to expect. Data suggested that the Chicago area was home to a significant number of Worn & Wound community members, but little did we know that the Fair would attract folks from all across the Midwest, and from Texas to Canada. And oh boy, did our second show at Venue West in Chicago not disappoint! In fact, by all accounts, it was even bigger, more vibrant, and far more interactive than last year’s already epic opener. Not only did the show have five amazing lead sponsors in the form of Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac for the first time, we managed to fit about 25% more brands into the venue than just one year ago. And the brands came with a massive array of new watches, using this Fair to launch these products to the world. You can see several of these new launches on the most recent edition of our weekly video series, A Week in Watches, recorded straight from the floor of the show. A wide array of enthusiast brands returned to Chicago, and we had a slew of watch companies choose Chicago 2023 as their official debut to the Windup Watch Fair. Some of these first-timers included: Dryden, Hess Fine Art, Luminox, Shinola, Sternglas, Venezianico, and Wolter. We even had a few brands return to the show after a hiatus, including Mondaine, MeisterSinger, Mühle-Glashütte. It was great to have them back. Finally, based on the success of our initial EDC Alley at our S...
Worn & Wound
Swatch Asks “What If?” with their New Collection of Square, Bioceramic Watches
Alternative realities have long held the imagination of humans. From ancient Roman historian, Livy, to 20th century physicist, Hugh Everett, to Marvel movies of today, we have long tried to answer the question of, “What if…” Now, Swatch has taken it upon themselves to ask this very question in their latest collection, aptly titled WHAT IF? To understand this new release, one must look back into Swatch’s history for a moment. In 1982, the Swiss watch brand had a choice between a round or square model that would be their inaugural design. While we all know the circular design that has become standard for Swatch, WHAT IF? is an alternative reality of sorts, showing us what could have been, had they gone with a square dial from the beginning. Four colorways are available in the WHAT IF? collection, including black, gray, beige, and green. While these may seem like a complete 180 from the vibrant colorways that are now synonymous with Swatch, the neutral tones of the WHAT IF? series reflect the design sensibilities of the early 1980s – which somehow still feel modern today. Each model in the series is made from Swatch’s proprietary bioceramic material (a phrase you’ll know if you were a fan of their MoonSwatch release last year). Mixing ceramic powder with bio sourced materials, bioceramic is inherently durable without added weight or bulk, making it a perfect material for an everyday timepiece like those in the Swatch collection. Each reference clocks in at 33mm,...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Past, Present, And Future Of The Rolex Milgauss
Rolex discontinuing the modern Milgauss. An auction record for a vintage version. It's time to ask: What in the world is up with the 'scientist's watch'?
Quill & Pad
Australian Chardonnay: The Judgment of Paris Part Two (Oz Edition)
For those not familiar with what was a monumental shift in the tectonic plates of the world of wine, the Judgement of Paris is a legendary moment when the spotlight’s glare revealed that it was entirely possible to make great wine outside France.
Video
3 of The Best Omega Speedmasters Money Can Buy.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces a Pair of New Dial Variants to the C63 Sealander Range, Along with a Brand New Five-Link Bracelet Design
Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch. Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light. The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...
Teddy Baldassarre
Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet
Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Goes Green with a New Version of the BR 05 Chronograph
The last Bell & Ross I wrote about had a celestial feel to it, but with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, we’ve landed back on earth. With its mixture of steel and vibrant green, this BR 05 mixes urbanism with an architectural lean to it. Think Central Park in New York or the Tiergarten in Berlin – a respite of greenery in the middle of a steel-and-concrete jungle. Like all BR 05 models, the Chrono Green Steel retains its aviation-inspired squared dial that Bell & Ross now markets to the urban explorer crowd. And with its integrated steel bracelet and sleek design, it’s easy to see why. All models in the Chrono collection are equipped with a circular seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-second timer at 3 o’clock, creating a balance to the visuals of the watch that somehow fit neatly within the linear confines of the square dial. The date is cleverly tucked away in the small recess between 4 and 5 o’clock, hardly noticeable but definitely there. Like an urban planner, Bell & Ross has ensured that no bit of real estate has gone unnoticed. The green sunray dial and Super-LumiNova indices and numbers soften the overall feel of the watch itself. Coming in at 42mm of satin-polished steel, the use of green feels more inviting and less, well, cold. The BR 05 Chrono Green Steel is equipped with a Swiss-made self-winding BR-CAL.326 movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back, and supplies the wearer with 60-hours of power reserve. The BR 05 Ch...
Time+Tide
Another month, another MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold – this time with more lanterns!
Swatch keeps the MoonSwatch mania alive with a Mission to Moonshine Gold watch released to coincide with National Swiss Day.The post Another month, another MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold – this time with more lanterns! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel
Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. The post Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Video
The Future of Rolex is AI?
Deployant
Deployant favourites: Six of the best lots from Only Watch 2023
Only Watch revealed 62 lots for the 2023 season, This is the 10th edition of this biennial charity auction. We pick six of the best.
Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates the Life and Career of a Baseball Legend with the Hank Aaron Limited Edition
Back in the fall of 2020, Oris had a breakout hit with their Pointer Date Roberto Clemente Limited Edition. It was a watch that hit all of the right notes: a much loved complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, an appealing but uncommon colorway, and, most importantly, it helped to tell the story of the late Roberto Clemente, who is as well known as a humanitarian as a he is a baseball player. Now, Oris is back with another baseball themed watch, this one honoring the legacy of Hank Aaron, the Hall of Famer who held MLB’s home run record for decades after his retirement, and still holds records for most career RBIs and total bases. This project, however, is really more about Hank Aaron’s humanitarian legacy, and as a collaboration with the Hank Aaron Chasing the Dream Foundation, it seeks to honor the important work that took place after his baseball career ended. The Chasing the Dream Foundation was founded in 1994 as a non-profit whose mission is to award scholarship funds to young people with limited opportunities. According to Oris and the Foundation, they have provided assistance for over 800 kids to further their education, with many pursuing careers in education, the sciences, and the arts. Earlier this week, the Atlanta Braves began a celebration of Aaron’s life and legacy, with the release of the new Hank Aaron Limited Edition version of the Big Crown Pointer Date playing a central role. The watch takes a familiar format and adds color ...
Worn & Wound
It’s a Close Encounter of the Horological Kind with the New UFO Clocks from Ulysse Nardin
Eagle-eyed watch and horology enthusiasts are experiencing a close encounter of the third kind as Ulysse Nardin has dropped three new versions of its avant-garde UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) marine chronometer table clock. Based on the original UFO from 2021, the trio of new colors celebrates Ulysse Nardin’s special relationship with three famed retailers: Swiss-based Bucherer (Ice Blue), Japanese retailer Yoshida (Green), and The Hour Glass (Champagne) in Southeast Asia. The clocks are limited to 30 in each color and are available exclusively through these retailers. Ulysse Nardin commemorated its 175th anniversary back in the spring of 2021 by introducing the first series of UFOs in a batch of 75 examples in dark blue. All sold out quickly. In the fall of that year, at Only Watch, a unique one-off in orange hammered for an eye-watering CHF 380,000. Clearly, there was interest in this unapologetically futuristic take on the marine chronometer – once a crucial tool in navigation at sea and the pinnacle of precision timekeeping. Ulysse Nardin claims this is the fruit of two years of research and development in partnership with L’Épée, whom you may recognize as past collaborators with MB&F;. A closer look at the UFO reveals a product that builds on UN’s history as masters of the marine chronometer while pushing the boundaries of design and engineering. Aesthetically, the UFO is like a JLC Atmos clock that decided to let loose: the half-sphere base houses a tun...
Time+Tide
The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines
The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection is inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines Each of the watches, starting at CHF 3,200, are available on leather straps or a steel bracelet for CHF 300 more The day display at 12′ is executed in Zurich’s very own Swiss-German dialect Swiss independent microbrand Maurice … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice de Mauriac Züri Date collection offers a rainbow of 8 watches inspired by the colours of Zurich tram lines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Ryan Gosling Wears Three Different Vintage Heuer Carreras (At The Same Time) As Ken In 'Barbie'
He's "Just Ken" but these aren't ordinary Heuers in our watch-related movie of the week.
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