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Introducing the Apiar Carbon1.0 OG Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s new U.F.A movement Sep 18, 2026

Introducing the Apiar Carbon1.0 OG

Think about where we are in watchmaking in 2026. You could argue, pretty reasonably I think, that the problem of chronometry has basically been solved. We have access to mechanical watches that are accurate to seconds per month, and quartz watches that are accurate to seconds per year. There are advancements around the edges (Grand Seiko’s new U.F.A. movement comes to mind, the most accurate watch powered by a mainspring, accurate to 20 seconds per year), but it’s hard to imagine an advancement in timekeeping at this point that would actually be meaningful in our daily lives. For movement geeks, sure, shaving off seconds here and there will always be a fun new development, but for many we’ve reached a point of diminishing returns, where all that really matters are bragging rights by the brands (and those matter a lot – big marketing campaigns are built around them).  So where do the advancements come from in the years ahead? Many people with a lot more experience in this industry than me have discussed materials science as the next big step for watch brands, and we’ve certainly seen a lot of alternative materials used in cases and movements over the last few years. Once you go beyond the traditional steel, titanium, and precious metals that watch cases are normally made from, you open yourself up to manufacturing and creative options that are typically encountered across other industries, like the aerospace sector and medical manufacturing.  The UK based brand ...

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Suverän, A Universal Genève Cabriolet, A Vacheron Constantin Overseas, And A Vintage Zenith Chronograph Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Sep 18, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Suverän, A Universal Genève Cabriolet, A Vacheron Constantin Overseas, And A Vintage Zenith Chronograph

Congrats on making it through another week, Baller, and your reward, sadly, is not more information about an extraordinary new Rolex, nor is it a pretty fantastic video with a legendary rapper, but instead just a quick roundup of some excellent watches out waiting for new owners. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Smiths DeLuxe sold for 6,000 GBP, the Smiths W10 for €1,400, the Gübelin 18k triple-date moonphase remains available, the Universal Genève FS went for 600 GBP, and the Autavias sells today. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. If you've been holding onto an old steel chronograph pusher cap and don't know the case it works with, maybe have a look at this Heuer chronograph (presumably ref. 2444) and consider the JLC Memovox in the same lot an added bonus. Speaking of Memovox (I'm not guessing the plural of that noun), this sure checks a few boxes should you find yourself in the market for a lovely vintage example. I covered a Hamilton Cross Country a few weeks back, and here's a similar example if that one managed to get its hooks in you. For the Beatles mega-fan in your life, this Old England Apple watch is unlikely to be something they've seen (it's also unlikely to sell for less than 3x the €200 high estimate). This Vacheron Constantin 2045 is just lovely; this Corum bears a shocking resemblance to David Bowie's 1979 SNL performance look, and if there's a cooler tropicalized Carrera up for auction this week than this one, I didn't see it. Omega Suverän You'r...

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Worn & Wound
Stowa Sep 18, 2026

Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra

More commonly found in the sky than the field, Stowa watches are well known for their lineup of classic Pilot’s watches. They’ve branched out a bit over the years, but the Pilot lineup is what comes to mind for me most often when thinking about the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at their modern take on the field watch, aptly named the Fieldwatch Terra. The Terra comes in at 38mm, features a PVD coated steel case, and an impressive spec sheet that makes for an excellent watch to complement your EDC. Let’s take a closer look. $950 Review: the Stowa Fieldwatch Terra Case PVD coated stainless steel Movement Sellita SW 200 Dial textured matte green Lume white and orange SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap woven elastic nylon Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.9mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $950 Case Measuring in at a very comfortable 38mm wide by 46.9mm lug-to-lug, the Terra complements my 6.75” wrist nicely. The compact proportions are balanced out by the relatively large, wide open, and highly legible dial. Now that I’m thinking about it a little bit more, the watch probably wears bigger than the measurements imply, and that’s due to the slim outer bezel and large dial. More on that later. The case itself is crafted from stainless steel and then treated with a dark grey PVD coating. PVD stands for physical vapor deposition — it’s a technique that turns a solid material (the coating) into a vapor, and then...

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours Monochrome
Czapek Unveils Sep 18, 2026

First Look - Inspired by a Cult French Novel, Czapek Unveils the Promenade L’Ecume des Jours

Czapek launched the Promenade collection in 2024, an elegant line of compact, time-only dress watches that, in the words of CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel, serve as a “canvas for creative expression.” The latest addition to the family is the Promenade L’Écume des Jours, a tribute to the 1947 novel by French author Boris Vian, translated into […]

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Sep 18, 2026

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt

Daniel Roth’s svelte time-only watch remains compact but gains presence with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt. While it is just a cosmetic update, the black dial with “gilt” markings create a high contrast look that is unusual for ultra-thin dress watches. The formal aesthetic on the front is matched by the DR002 on the reverse. Made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the DR002 is a constructed and finished to a high level, continuing the philosophy of the revived Daniel Roth brand, which has been to recreate historical models, but enhanced superior, proprietary movements. Initial thoughts Style wise the Extra Plat is essentially a remake, albeit with nips and tucks to the design. The tweaks to the design are thoughtful but minimal, and preserve the original design. This is not a groundbreaking creation, but it is handsome and intrinsically appealing. This specific iteration is the best looking of the Extra Plat collection to date. The gold-on-black livery is striking. Unlike earlier versions of the model that are more conventional in colours, this is a more powerful combination, but still remains a formal dress watch. Moreover, the “gilt” dial itself is more complex than it appears: the gold markings are not print but instead the solid gold dial base below showing through the black coating. This illustrates the impressive manufacturing quality of Daniel Roth in general, or more specifically LFT. The Extra Plat retails for CHF55,000, which is competitive in today’s hi...

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton Foundation Sep 17, 2026

In Conversation with Jeff Koons on His New Collaboration with Hublot

Watch collaborations have saturated the market in recent years, but when I heard Jeff Koons was getting involved in designing a model, my ears perked up. His Celebration series featuring his Balloon Dog sculptures makes up one of the most memorable works of art to emerge in my lifetime as a child of the 90s. I wasn’t surprised this would be the source of inspiration for the watches he’d create.  The artist and self-proclaimed weirdo in me has always appreciated the daring and disruptive nature of Koons’ creations, but to the masses, they’ve been polarizing. It was clear that his approach to design wouldn’t be the right fit for just any watch brand – it would need to be with a maker who was equally daring, disruptive, and perhaps even polarizing itself. Enter Hublot, who has long received scrutiny for its audacious models that buck Swiss tradition. “I remember maybe about 15 years ago, I was at an event for the Louis Vuitton Foundation, and I had a conversation with Bernard Arnault,” Koons recalls. “He said, ‘you know, Jeff, you should make a watch,’ but we never did. Years later, our sons became friends, and Frederic said to my son Sean, ‘your dad should make a watch – Hublot has a lot of interest in partnering with him.’ And I was really excited about this idea of working with new materials and working with time.” All that said, the goal has never been a shock factor – it’s about authenticity – Koons’ identity as an artist and Hublo...

Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” Sep 17, 2026

Introducing - The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier “Small Batch Release” in Saxe Blue

Hajime Asaoka, the celebrated Japanese master watchmaker, is renowned for his bespoke, high-end handmade watches. Aware that his pieces are beyond the reach of most mortals, Asaoka created Kurono Tokyo, a small independent brand that offers more accessible watches with Seiko or Miyota movements, imbued with a strong Japanese spirit. However, Kurono’s success means its […]

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel Monochrome
Blancpain Lady B Sep 17, 2026

First Look - The Blancpain Lady B, a Small, Spherical and yet Mechanical Wrist-Worn Jewel

With its motto of never producing quartz watches, its manufacturing capabilities and its rich heritage in dive watches, Blancpain is often spontaneously associated with technical, masculine watchmaking. But this overlooks an important chapter in the brand’s history. In the middle of the 20th century, its development was driven by Betty Fiechter, a remarkable figure at […]

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock Fratello
Ressence s New Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock

Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models Fratello
Rolex Models When it comes Sep 17, 2026

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models

When it comes to vintage watches, few brands have as much depth as Rolex. Over more than a century, the company has produced an enormous range of models, references, and variations that have become firmly established among collectors. From tool watches built for specific purposes to understated everyday models, there’s plenty to explore beyond the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Vintage Rolex Models to read the full article.

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026 Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Girard Perregaux MB&F; Sep 16, 2026

Photo Report: Geneva Watch Days 2026

I'll admit it, Geneva Watch Days is one of my favourite times in the city. It's when our industry reunites after a long, heatwave-themed summer to meet friends from all corners of the watch world and get hands-on with the latest pieces from some of the hottest and most interesting brands. And that's the thing about this summer show: while Watches & Wonders draws our attention to the larger players, Geneva Watch Days lets us take a breather, slow this rapidly moving industry right down, and spend time with watches and brands of all sizes. Don't get me wrong, Bvlgari, Zenith, Daniel Roth, Girard Perregaux, MB&F;, and Breitling attend, but its city-centered format and later date on the calendar mean there's much more time to see smaller names and discover new ones. The 2026 edition set a new record with 71 participating brands, unveiling nearly 400 new releases. More than 2,500 private clients, collectors, and watch enthusiasts attended, alongside more than 500 international media and content creators. However, this year's edition drew 15,000 people in total, down from last year's peak of 17,000. News from the brands exhibiting was certainly plentiful and felt increasingly significant compared to previous iterations of the show (Breitling's House of Brands used the show to unveil Gallet to the world, and MAD Editions by MB&F; announced the MAD 3 - more on those in a moment). Yet on more than one occasion, conversations centered around how the show felt a little quieter than pre...

Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack Fratello
Ming Sep 16, 2026

Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack

About two weeks ago, during Geneva Watch Days, I visited the Singer atelier in Geneva. It’s a beautiful place, slightly hidden on a street near the lake, where Singer Reimagined works on its watches. There, I got a first glimpse of what the brand introduced today — the Singer Reimagined 1970 DualTrack. The Singer Reimagined […] Visit Singer Reimagined Keeps The GMT Hits Coming With The 1970 DualTrack to read the full article.

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Glashütte Original 70s Collection Sep 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch

While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Rolex Perpetual Padellone Sep 15, 2026

In-Depth - The new Rolex Perpetual Padellone, The Return of an Icon now with Annual Calendar and Dynapulse (Incl. Video)

It is not often that Rolex introduces a new watch outside of the industry’s main exhibition, Watches and Wonders (or Baselworld before it). In fact, in recent years, it has only happened on very rare occasions, such as the release of the Daytona Le Mans, the record-breaking Deepsea Challenge in titanium or the Deepsea D-Blue […]

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale Hodinkee
Ming Sep 15, 2026

Auctions: Six Observations From Sotheby's September 18 Hong Kong Sale

Ready or not, auction season is back. I don't know about you, but I wasn't expecting it so soon. While the auction cycle is generally synced up for Geneva and New York sales a bit later in the fall, Sotheby's is doing the earliest big sale of the fall with "Important Watches" in Hong Kong on September 18.  Personally, I'm still working through the best way to handle auction coverage, as the number of watches is often daunting. That challenge gets worse with Hong Kong sales, which we've generally struggled to stay on top of for a number of reasons. One of which, and this is a complaint for all auction houses, is that there are too many lots in Hong Kong sales. This is driven by both the market location (many of these watches were sourced locally—something I know because I know a decent number of these watches) and the forces behind the auction house and its metrics. Sometimes you have to make sellers happy and take what they want to get at other things (like taking random Hermès bags in a watch sale, as we see this time). It can be overwhelming for a buyer, and for you and me as readers. I want to find the interesting, great deals in the mid- and low-range and share them with you, but I also can't ignore the impressive pieces that might shape the broader market. One important note: for Hong Kong sales, I never get to see the watches in person. It's a lot easier for me to stand in front of a case of watches and pick things up by feel, closely evaluate condition and origi...

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions Monochrome
IWC Celebrates 50 Years Sep 15, 2026

First Look - IWC Celebrates 50 Years Of The Genta-Designed Ingenieur SL With Two Ingenieur Automatic Limited Editions

Birthdays are to be celebrated, so it’s no surprise IWC Schaffhausen honours the 50th anniversary of one of its most pivotal watches, the Ingenieur SL. Introduced in 1976 and penned by Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur SL was one of the early adopters of the integrated sports watch ethos. Lasting until the late 1990s, the Ingenieur […]

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2026

Introducing - DUG Glashütte Brings Compact 37mm Editions of its Purist Collection

Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius Fratello
Venezianico Redentore Levius Venezianico has Sep 15, 2026

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius

Venezianico has been raising the bar constantly with its varied collection of watches. While my favorites from the Venetian brand are in the Arsenale collection, we have seen some impressive developments in the Bucintoro and Redentore lines. The high-end models in those two show the brand’s interesting progress with Italian-made calibers and special dials. With […] Visit Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius to read the full article.

Benrus Brings Its Military History into the Modern Era with the New Type 3X Collection Worn & Wound
Ming part Sep 14, 2026

Benrus Brings Its Military History into the Modern Era with the New Type 3X Collection

The Benrus Type I and Type II are among the category of iconic military watches that first took root in the 1940s around WWII with the famous Dirty Dozen. The Type I and II are an extension of this lineage with designs that met the U.S. military’s formal specifications for wristwatches better known as MILSPEC during the Vietnam War in the 1970s and later throughout the special operations community, particularly among CIA paramilitary forces, Navy SEAL, and UDT teams conducting maritime missions. Benrus has kept this piece of horological history alive in its contemporary catalog, with modern interpretations of both models becoming part of the brand’s permanent collection in the new millennium. Now, that legacy continues with a brand new twist and a brand new collection: the Type 3X. Today, the needs of military forces look very different than decades ago when the Type I and Type II were originally developed. Technology has transformed warfare, but there’s still a need for simple, dependable tools that work if technology fails. This sparked a simple question among a group of former special operations veterans: what would a modern version of the Type I and Type II look like if it was designed by the people who actually use it? Instead of beginning in a design studio, the project started the way many special operations ideas do – around a table, with this small group of individuals who had spent their careers solving problems in demanding environments. Their approach w...

Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026 Fratello
Sep 14, 2026

Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026

Watch events are popping up left and right, and that’s good, especially when they’re open to the public. Milano Watch Week 2026 is one such horological happening. The event brings 55 brands to Milan and aims to introduce the public to watches and brands that are often difficult to encounter in everyday life. The program […] Visit Experience The Charm Of Contemporary Watchmaking At Milano Watch Week 2026 to read the full article.

Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right Fratello
Tudor Got Sep 14, 2026

Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right

After writing about Tudor’s habit of arriving at a genuinely excellent design and then quietly undercutting it, it felt only fair to go looking for counterexamples. I wanted to find watches that show Tudor committed fully, finished the thought, and ended up with something that competes on its own terms rather than gesturing at somebody […] Visit Three Times Tudor Got The Design Brief Completely Right to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey seems Sep 14, 2026

SJX Podcast: In Conversation with Michel Nydegger

With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Is A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia 36 Annual Calendar The Best Dress Watch Ever? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 13, 2026

Is A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia 36 Annual Calendar The Best Dress Watch Ever? (Hands-On)

A. Lange & Söhne put their best foot forward at Watches & Wonders 2026, but does it hit all their exacting standards? Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact watch that makes its presence known Legible despite its size Highly complex & beautifully finished What We Don’t: Little negative space; a consequence of compaction Date corrector disrupts symmetry Would you request the price? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality:9.5/10 Of all the richness within German watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne could be considered the most emblematic of the region. The veritable golden boy of German horology, it has often been cited as the mainstream leader in what best comprises the country’s ethos around mechanics and craftsmanship. Depending on who you ask, the history of the brand does get fuzzy, though not for any fault of their own. The realities of the Second World War, Soviet occupation, and consolidation under the Iron Curtain may never unscramble Glashütte’s complex past. What cannot be questioned, however, is the quality of work A. Lange & Söhne routinely produces. It’s why they’re often cited as the first step into luxuriously acquired taste, the first bold venture beyond the grip of the Swiss or Japanese industries, opening the veritable Pandora’s box that is haute horlogerie. As of late, though, they’ve even been shirking that archetype, rising to compete as one of the greatest watch brands around, regard...

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag It's been Sep 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag

It's been a big year for Tudor. The brand is in the midst of a major anniversary celebration, with 2026 marking 100 years since Hans Wilsdorf filed the first paperwork that eventually led to Tudor's creation. Appropriately, that anniversary has been the dominant story this year, and it was reflected in their major novelty for Watches & Wonders 2026: the Tudor Monarch. That watch was, I think, largely a successful launch for the brand, and the supporting releases, though subtle, were meaningful and (in some cases) necessary. Still, for those of us who find ourselves generally drawn to Tudor's more utilitarian offerings, it was easy to feel a little overlooked coming out of Watches & Wonders. That changed last week with the launch of the new Northflag. The new watch is an update on the North Flag from 2015, and is aimed squarely at those looking for a compelling everyday adventure and exploration–ready watch. It does that, but it also brings the same maturity that has begun to permeate the Tudor lineup. But more on that in a minute, because before we talk about the Northflag, I want to talk about the North Flag (I know, vaguely confusing), and to do that, I need to talk about anniversaries. The Tudor North Flag I'm on record in several places as having my doubts about whether this was really the year for Tudor to mark the 100-year milestone. An even cursory look at Tudor's history quickly reveals that, while the Tudor wordmark may have been trademarked in 1926, and while e...