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Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G Jun 2, 2026

Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G

The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically.  Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics.  The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year.  So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...

Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition Hodinkee
Oris Celebrates Jun 1, 2026

Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition

What We Know Every year on June 1, Oris celebrates the founding of its brand by releasing watches named after its hometown. This time, they're doing so with 250 numbered pieces based on the brand's new Artelier watch. The new version features small seconds, a 120-hour power reserve, the Caliber 401 movement, and an interesting retro-futuristic style. The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 has a stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.1mm, a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 30m water resistance. The dial is light grey with a subtle fumé effect from its shape, with a brighter subsidiary seconds dial in a mirror finish and a small red seconds hand. That silver, domed dial and claw-style hour markers make the watch feel a bit like a throwback to the late 1960s, but with modern specifications. The hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova. As a bonus, the movement (while not COSC-certified) has an accuracy of 3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic. It's also automatic winding. The caseback uses a special laser treatment that engraves the Oris Bear, features the words "Hölstein Edition 2026," and produces a mirror-like, iridescent rainbow finish. To steal the description from one of the greatest haircuts known to man, it's business in the front and party in the back. The watch retails for CHF 3,800. What We Think Oris has been doing these limited editions, as far as I can tell, since 2020, and each one has been anything but traditional. Obviously, the Oris bear often plays a ...

Introducing – The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401 Monochrome
Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 Jun 1, 2026

Introducing – The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401

The Hölstein Editions are Oris’ annual limited-edition watches, released each June 1st to celebrate the brand’s birthday and honour its roots in Hölstein, Switzerland. Introduced in the early 2000s, the more elegant Artelier family was fully redesigned this year to become a more contemporary and versatile lineup. Marking its 122nd birthday, Oris releases the Hölstein Edition 2026, […]

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home Fratello
Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — Jun 1, 2026

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home

On June 1st of every year since 2020, Oris has introduced a homage to Hölstein, the Swiss village that the brand calls home. According to Oris CEO Rolf Studer, it’s also a “thank you” from Oris to the Oris community. For this year’s edition, Oris used its new Artelier model, introduced at Watches and Wonders […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home to read the full article.

Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca Fratello
Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca We have Jun 1, 2026

Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca

We have come to know IFL Watches for its modern hand-painted dials, often inspired by colorful street art. But what if you let the artists at IFLW have a crack at something a bit more classical? We know that Venezianico is a proud Italian brand that celebrates its Venetian roots with every release. If you […] Visit Bringing Classic Art To The Wrist With The IFLW × Venezianico Redentore L’Odalisca to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 29, 2026

H. Moser Introduces the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, with a Brand New Manually Wound Movement

Moser’s new Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date occupies a strange niche which the brand has now explored twice in the span of just a few months: a watch with a movement that has been converted from an automatic version to manually wound for additional functionality and convenience. I’d be surprised if this was an operating principle for Moser for either this release or the Streamliner Pump which debuted at Watches & Wonders, and runs on the HMC 103, which is a manually wound version of their workhorse HMC 500. But it does speak to the brand’s ingenuity when it comes to movement making, and is a reminder that while Moser’s aesthetics and distinct design language often get the most ink, there’s real watchmaking happening as well.  Moser’s Endeavour platform gets the debut of an entirely new movement from Moser, the HMC 730. Based on the architecture of the HMC 902, their automatic chronograph movement made with AGENHOR, the new caliber dispenses with an automatic winding system in favor of dual time and date complications. It does all of this without traditional subdials, a real benefit of the proprietary AGENHOR architecture, which promises a more intuitive readout of elapsed time on a chronograph. On this watch, a red central hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium plated hand tracks elapsed minutes, and the second time zone is found within an interior gray fume dial.  The movement has a number of function first technical advances. The date, for ...

Happenings: Roger W. Smith OBE To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York Hodinkee
Omega co-axial wristwatch May 29, 2026

Happenings: Roger W. Smith OBE To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

At the June 2026 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), independent watchmaker Roger W. Smith OBE will trace the remarkable story of the co-axial escapement from George Daniels' original invention in the early 1970s through to its continuing modern evolution. Beginning with Daniels' determination to address the fundamental limitations of the Swiss lever escapement, the talk explores the development of his early experimental pocket watches, together with the long and often difficult process of persuading a skeptical Swiss watch industry to adopt an entirely new escapement system. Drawing on firsthand experience working alongside Daniels during the Millennium Watch project and the launch of the first Omega co-axial wristwatch in 1999, Smith will provide a rare personal insight into a pivotal moment in modern horological history. The second half of the presentation will examine the subsequent technical evolution of the escapement from 2005 onwards, including the development of the single-wheel co-axial and the changing philosophy behind escapement design — moving beyond pure chronometric performance towards long-term stability, durability, and extended service intervals. Due to limited seating, tickets will be released according to this schedule: Gold Members...............May 26 (12 PM ET)Silver Members..............May 28 (12 PM ET)Bronze Members............June 2 (12 PM ET)General Public................June 4 (12 PM ET) A dedicated email with a unique cod...

First Look – The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Orange, a Colourful and Sporty Retro Diver Monochrome
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Orange May 29, 2026

First Look – The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Orange, a Colourful and Sporty Retro Diver

Ever since Favre Leuba has been relaunched at Geneva Watch Days 2024, the brand has been going back to its archives and giving old favourites a fresh spin. Unveiled at this event was the Deep Blue collection that hosted two watches: the Deep Blue Revival (39mm) and Deep Blue Renaissance (40mm). This comeback collection was […]

Formex Introduces the Aria, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch with a Manufacture Movement Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces May 29, 2026

Formex Introduces the Aria, an Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch with a Manufacture Movement

Formex has formally introduced what is likely to be at or near the top of many of our “Watch of the Year” lists when 2026 is all said and done. Long a brand synonymous with squeezing an absolutely insane amount of value from every dollar spent, the new Aria is Formex’s most ambitious watch to date, by a wide margin. We got a look at the Aria during Watches & Wonders week while Formex exhibited at Chronopolis, and then again at Windup San Francisco a few weeks later, and we remain impressed with what the brand has accomplished. This is a big step forward for them on a number of fronts.  The Aria is an integrated bracelet sports watch that is also ultra-thin and uses the brand’s first manufacture movement. It makes sense, I think, to start with the case and bracelet, because they are immediately striking to hold and wear when you first experience the watch. The Aria is 40mm in diameter and crafted from titanium, with a tapered bracelet that has meticulously hand finished elements throughout. The total case height comes to just 6.9mm, and a close examination of the case, bracelet, and how they are integrated to one another reveals an intense attention to detail on the part of Formex and their design team. The Aria seems to understand what makes an integrated bracelet sports watch really work, which is a continuity of form from the case to the bracelet, and all the way to the clasp. They are integrated in the truest sense of the word, with matching finishes and tight ...

Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph Worn & Wound
Ming new features May 28, 2026

Albishorn Introduces the New Type X-Graph

Swiss brand Albishorn is known for their rather daring mission of recreating vintage watches that never existed; a goal that seems confusing until you see their wide swathe of “imaginary vintage” offerings, each of which draws from iconic timepieces of the past while forging their own new identities. It’s an exercise in parallel history with an added touch of impossibility, and it’s what makes Albishorn watches a category of their own. Carrying on that hypothetical tradition is the new Type X-Graph, which borrows elements from the legendary Type 20 design, while adding features that were simply not possible in the era that Type 20 pieces were being built.  Rather than taking a Type 20 silhouette and cramming new features in, Albishorn has taken to imagining what a predecessor “Type 10” may have looked like instead. Calling it a “missing link” in the history of the Type 20, the Type X-Graph is, of course, a pilot chronograph, with stylings from the late 1940s to pre-date the Type 20’s 1950s introduction. A monopusher military chronograph design, the Type X-Graph measures in at 39mm (a first hint of the modern innovations that remind us that it’s of an imagined history) in case diameter, and 20mm in case thickness. The lug width is a democratic 20mm, with the final lug-to-lug measurement coming in at a wearable 47.7mm, and kept slim by the 12mm thickness. But that’s just the boring stuff; the visuals and functionality of the X-Graph are what make it st...

First Look – The Norqain Adventure Chrono Swiss Football National Team Limited Edition Monochrome
Norqain Adventure Chrono Swiss Football May 28, 2026

First Look – The Norqain Adventure Chrono Swiss Football National Team Limited Edition

Hockey first, now football. After earlier NHL and NHLPA editions, as well as the recent refresh of the Adventure lineup, Norqain presents the new Adventure Chrono Swiss Football National Team Limited Edition. Unlike many sports-team watches that stop at a logo or a few colours, this one was actually developed with input from several members […]

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Rolex Zerograph inspiration May 28, 2026

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics)

What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...

Introducing – The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Celebrates 250 Years of American Independence Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II May 28, 2026

Introducing – The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Celebrates 250 Years of American Independence

In 2019, Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s high-frequency, integrated automatic chronograph movement was fitted inside three inaugural watches, including the A384, a bold tonneau-shaped case with a two-tone dial that reflected the design language of the period. As the United States gets ready to celebrate […]

The Barrelhand Monolith Takes Flight SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 But May 28, 2026

The Barrelhand Monolith Takes Flight

First teased more than two years ago, the Barrelhand Monolith makes its official debut. An impressive sophomore effort from San Francisco-based mechanical engineer Karel Bachand, the Monolith was designed — and rigorously tested — to accompany the next generation of manned spaceflight missions. Initial thoughts I tend to look at astronaut-oriented watches with a degree of scepticism. For one thing, many modern mechanical watches are inherently capable of performing well enough in space, especially within the pressurised, temperature-controlled conditions of a spacecraft or space station. Today’s astronauts often travel with numerous personal watches, either for sentimental reasons or to boost future resale value. For another, the demands placed on astronauts make electronic multi-function watches superior to their mechanical counterparts. Almost as soon as such watches were developed, astronauts adopted them enthusiastically, which is why the Timex Datalink was flight qualified by NASA in the 1990s. The European Space Agency (ESA) even patented a set of purpose-built functions devised by astronaut Jean-François Clervoy. These functions were brought to life by the Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33. But mechanical watches still have a place in the unforgiving vacuum of space, where massive temperature fluctuations and unpredictable levels of radiation wreak havoc on batteries and LCD displays. These are the conditions for which the Monolith was developed, and the maker...

Blastoff For The Space-Going Barrelhand Monolith — A Next-Generation Mission-Grade Space Watch Fratello
May 28, 2026

Blastoff For The Space-Going Barrelhand Monolith — A Next-Generation Mission-Grade Space Watch

There are tool watches, and then there are watches that make conventional tool watches look almost quaint. The Barrelhand Monolith belongs in the latter category. This timepiece took six years to develop. Aerospace engineering, additive manufacturing, and advanced materials science were used to create not simply a “space-inspired” watch but an actual instrument for modern […] Visit Blastoff For The Space-Going Barrelhand Monolith — A Next-Generation Mission-Grade Space Watch to read the full article.

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor Blue” Means May 28, 2026

Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54

After the dust had settled from Watches and Wonders 2026, fans and critics agreed that Tudor had a relatively quiet showing. The Monarch, of course, was the big release to celebrate 100 years of Tudor. On top of that, we got a series of updates and new versions of already existing models. While less surprising, […] Visit Considering What “Tudor Blue” Means With The Newest Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

Review: The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward May 27, 2026

Review: The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue

Four years ago I spent a fortnight with the Archival 1930, and ultimately proclaimed it the closest Fears has come to parting me from my hard-earned money. Since then, two things have happened. Firstly, Fears did earn my business by way of the Alliance 01 collaboration with Christopher Ward. Secondly, the modest lineup of rectangular watches from the brand has grown ever so slightly but remains overshadowed by the flagship Brunswick and sporty Redcliff families, and are perhaps therefore a little underappreciated. With so many iterations based on the Brunswick template, including the hugely popular cocktail trilogy produced in collaboration with Studio Underd0g, I find myself rooting for the Arnos – Fears’ first watch to build on the template of the Archival 1930 which captured my heart. When analyzing the Arnos ($4,500), it feels appropriate to start with the dial. I haven’t sought out common opinion in preparation for going hands on with the watch, but I fully expect the dial to be a polarizing factor. As is the case with any rectangular watch, there’s going to be a lot of space to fill. Space where the hands just can’t reach. That’s true of square dial watches too, but exacerbated further in a rectangle. Some watches fill this space with stretched indices, or an inner minute track matching the same outer rectangular shape. Even the aforementioned Archival 1930 (in two-hander form) lined the indices up vertically to cleverly use the corner spaces. Here, howev...

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection May 27, 2026

Hands-On: A Triple Review Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Collection

We're a few months removed from Watches & Wonders, which gives us some clarity about what was buzz, what was hype, what fell off the wish lists, and what will be a long-term winner. It's looking like Jaeger-LeCoultre had one of the best releases of the fair with the Master Control Chronomètre series. The Master Control line has largely been a dressy take on traditional design cues for a brand people usually think of first for its Reverso. But now, JLC has shown that Master Control can do more. More than just a new case and bracelet, all watches are in-house chronometer-certified 4Hz, 70-hour power reserve movements (COSC does the certification) with a new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, which supplants the former 1000 Hours Control. That new HPG seal means that the brand trials cased watches on four daily-wear specific issues—shocks, positions, altitude, and temperature—over three days, while guaranteeing eight traditional techniques of quality aesthetic finishing. The watches I photographed were brand new and wrapped in plastic, so you have to look past a bit of that to see the quality, but it certainly is there in person. Now with three models in steel and rose gold, with five SKUs (one watch only comes in steel and not gold), measuring 38mm by 8.4mm or 39mm or 9.2mm with 50m of water resistance, the new line brings a lot to the table. Inspired by the brand's Master Mariner Chronomètre line, launched in 1973 as their offering for an integrated bracelet (or adj...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability Fratello
Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil May 27, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability

After last year’s limited-edition ALD watches, Dennison and Collectability are back with another collaboration. Designer Emmanuel Gueit and Patek Philippe specialist John Reardon unveil four watches featuring a new asymmetric design. The Oblique Enigma features a stepped dial, just like last year’s ALD editions. The Oblique Vector features a sunburst dial enhanced by subtle printing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Limited-Edition Oblique Collection By Dennison And Collectability to read the full article.

Introducing – A New Platinum Version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual After May 27, 2026

Introducing – A New Platinum Version of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

After the impressively complex watches released by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches & Wonders 2026, including the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon or the Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin, the Grande Maison now presents a re-edition of its Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, an ambitious creation uniting the brand’s Duometre concept with a triple-axis tourbillon and a perpetual calendar complemented […]

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object What May 26, 2026

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object

What We Know For the last ten years, Louis Vuitton has worked with UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund, to support humanitarian and developmental aid for children worldwide. To mark the tenth anniversary of the partnership, the house is releasing a one-of-a-kind time object—a soccer ball reimagined as a clock—to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby's from June 9 to 18, with the hammer price going directly to UNICEF. The piece brings together La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss movement maker L'Épée 1839, and the house's trunkmaking heritage, all in the shape of a soccer ball, timed perfectly ahead of this year's World Cup. With Louis Vuitton's F1 partnership now in its second year, the brand has been planting its flag deeper in the world of sport. Having a soccer ball serve as the vessel for this milestone feels like a natural extension of that direction, and there's something fitting about the spherical choice of form to commemorate this occasion. At the center of the piece, time is told through a sculpted golden steel dome that forms the upper half of the clock. Two rotating cylinders handle the work: one tracks the hours, the other the minutes. The minute track is engraved with Louis Vuitton's Monogram motif and flowers, and the top of the cylinder carries the "Louis Vuitton Paris" signature. Moving outward, the hour and minute apertures are rimmed with diamonds—144 white for the hours, 120 black for the minutes, totaling 1.03 carats. Inside, L'...

Awake Introduces the Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection Worn & Wound
May 26, 2026

Awake Introduces the Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection

The evolution of Awake has been fascinating to observe over the last few years. From high concept blockchain and space inspired sports watches, the brand took a left turn into traditional craft techniques, and is now working to refine those ideas further in their latest collection. The new Son Mài Guilloché Main Collection combines the Son Mai lacquer techniques the brand has employed in previous collections with evocative, hand-applied guilloche work. These new watches also have updates to the case and dial that we imagine will carry through to further Awake releases in the pipeline.  I had a chance to see these watches in person at Chronopolis in Geneva earlier this year, and then again at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, and each time I came away very impressed with the dial work, which is clearly the chief selling point here. To summarize, these dials use the same “Son Mai” lacquer technique, perfected by artisans in Vietnam, that we saw the brand debut in 2024. The resulting bold, vibrant colors really carry these watches and give a very old practice a lot of modern charm. For the new collection, Awake has added guilloche to the mix. Before the lacquer finish is applied, each dial has a meticulously applied guilloche pattern engraved into the dial by traditional rose and straight line engines by craftspeople in Italy. When the lacquer finish is added later, it accentuates the guilloche in a dramatic way, highlighting the depth of the engraving and the ri...