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Quill & Pad
Strong stories and captivating histories constantly seduce watchmakers to create various special editions, and ballooning is one of those adventurous feats that has captured some horological imaginations. Here Jan Lidmaňský highlights a few watch brands that have floated through the sky, both literally and figuratively.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz was historically renowned for elaborate and ornamental pocket watches, often decorated with enamel and pearls, reflecting the brand’s on the Chinese market, which demanded lavishly decorated timepieces. The brand’s newest pair of paillonné enamel wristwatches – the Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonnée and Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée – embody the brand’s past aesthetic sensibilities. French for “spangled”, a reference to the tiny decorative pieces of gold foil that make up the pattern, paillonné enamelling has been a specialty of Jaquet Droz since its modern-day revival, starting with the very first Grande Seconde Paillonnée of 2004 that had a dial made by enamel artisan Anita Porchet. Jaquet Droz has since mastered the fine art of paillonné enamelling, with recent editions like the Paillonnée Enamel “Gold Arabesques” featuring dials made in its own workshops. Initial thoughts The new pair of paillonné enamel watches do not fail to impress with their vivid colours and patterns – gold paillons against translucent blue enamel over guilloché makes for a dynamic combination that immediately catches the eye. And up close, which is the best way to appreciate the enamelling, the gold paillons are tiny yet intricate and nuanced. The ring circling the sub-dials on both watches is made of 18k red gold Out of the two, I gravitate towards the Fleur de Vie due to its 35 mm case, which is fitting for a dress watch, esp...
SJX Watches
A marque revived via a crowdfunded effort in 2015, Czapek & Cie. has just announced its first sports watch, the Antarctique. The popularity of luxury-sports watches in steel makes that unsurprising, but the Antarctique is powered by a newly-developed, automatic movement with an interesting construction. Initial thoughts Doubtlessly conceived to cater to the current fad for luxury-sports watches in steel, the Antarctique is unsurprising in terms of design. While the overall look is reminiscent of a variety of watches, most notably the earlier-generation Girard-Perregaux Laureato, it manages to be different enough, in particularly with the C-shaped links. But more important and interesting is the movement inside, the SXH5. It was conceived by a team that includes prominent constructors like Emmanuel Bouchet, an independent watchmaker who is probably best known for the Harry Winston Opus 12, as well as Daniel Martinez, an independent constructor who worked at Sellita, MCT, and Greubel Forsey in the past. The SXH5 A large movement with high-quality features, the SXH5 has an interesting aesthetic that’s slightly inspired by vintage pocket watch movements but is clearly modern. And going by the photos, it also appears to be well finished. But the Antarctique is expensive – its price tag of US$18,900 is almost exactly the same as that of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding. While the Antarctique probably has a more compelling and unusual movement, the Czapek brand ...
Time+Tide
Smith & Singer (formerly Sotheby’s Australia) are hosting their first watch and jewellery auction of the year this week, featuring a smattering of interesting watches, with a few standout pieces. While the current circumstances mean a crowded room focused on a rostrum is impossible, the auction will be held virtually, with bidding allowed via telephone … ContinuedThe post A mid-60s Submariner with a sea story, a bargain Speedy, and a lit Reverso at the first virtual Smith & Singer auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
London is one of the world’s metropolises that can very easily stand its ground against the others by doing what it does best: being profoundly British. There are plenty of sensational timepieces in London if you know where to look, and in this article Martin Green shares a few of his favorite places.
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Time+Tide
Let me start this review with an admission: I thought the Big Crown was going to turf many of its current models in 2020. The Milgauss, for example, is well past due for an evolution from its current form, if it remains at all. Likewise, the Air-King – which stylistically borrowed heavily from a set … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Rolex Explorer II Ref.216570, sleeper classic or on the brink of extinction? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Fibratech is the latest example of Panerai creating ever sturdier and more durable watches for those who seek adventure. Joshua Munchow examines the brand-new Luminor Marina Fibratech and delves into the cool technology of the new material. You might be surprised where it comes from!
Quill & Pad
The Horological Society of New York has started a program called the “Working Watchmakers Grant” funded by donors and made available to watchmakers in the United States who have lost work due to the Coronavirus lockdowns. It will provide a bit of support to tide them over during these difficult times. GaryG shares the details with us here.
![Business News: Baselworld 2021 Cancelled and Exhibitors Get Refunds [Updated]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Baselworld-2019-hall-3.jpg)
SJX Watches
This year’s Baselworld saga has finally arrived at its epilogue and the inevitable outcome has been made official: MCH Group just announced that Baselworld 2021 has been cancelled. Simultaneously, the event’s organisers also announced that an “agreement on the settlement for the cancelled Baselworld 2020” – presumably with more substantial refunds – was reached with exhibiting brands. That settles the brief-but-intense circumstances surrounding Baselworld 2020, which began when this year’s fair was cancelled and then “postponed” to January 2021. Along with the “postponement”, exhibitors for the 2020 fair were only offered partial refunds of the event fees. Both moves, which were regarded as unilateral and unfair by watch brands, led to a stinging response from the exhibitors, led by their committee chairman, a senior executive of Rolex, the world’s largest luxury watch brand. A week later, Baselworld suffered its death blow when the fair’s biggest exhibitors – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor – pulled out of the event and decamped to Geneva, where they will join Watches & Wonders in a brand-new event that’ll take place in April 2021. They were followed shortly after by the brands owned by LVMH, which include Hublot and Bulgari. With that, the cancellation of Baselworld 2021 was fait accompli, even though Baselworld responded by insinuating the exhibitors had long been conspiring to exit the event. The cavernous Rolex booth...
Time+Tide
The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
100 payments of $1,000 to be made through its Working Watchmakers Grant.
Revolution
François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet speaks with Revolution on the launch of Audemars Piguet’s recently completed Museum, the introduction of the [Re]master01 and the current state of the industry.
Revolution
Panerai’s Luminor turns 70, and it’s redefining how its dials are illuminated and how long it’ll guarantee them.
Quill & Pad
Luxury watch brands and groups are stepping up to the plate and doing some real good in regard to the current COVID-19 pandemic. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights five initiatives.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe Nautilus remains one of the most coveted watches in the world, with a long waiting list for anyone buying through an AD, and and prices fetching well above RRP on the secondary market. It is a favourite amongst current-day celebrities such as Ellen DeGeneres, however with a little digging we have discovered … ContinuedThe post From Salt Bae to Brad Pitt, 7 Patek Philippe Nautilus wearers you might not know about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.
Revolution
New technology emerges in Jaquet Droz’s modern skeleton interpretation of the Grande Seconde.
Time+Tide
In the lead-up to the 2012 presidential election, France’s leader Nicolas Sarkozy, was preparing to deliver a campaign speech in Paris. Striding through the heaving crowd in Place de la Concorde, Sarkozy grinned and shook the hands of his cheering supporters. But halfway along, a realisation flashed through his mind. Without stopping, he whipped off … ContinuedThe post “If you don’t have a Rolex by the time you reach 50, then you have clearly failed in your life.” Remembering Sarkozy, the ‘Bling-Bling’ president appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: ‘Modding’ a watch is not a trend in watchmaking, it is a trope. It has, and always will be, a part of the watchmaking and watch-wearing world as companies and individuals seek to personalise and individualise watches. A uniquely modified watch becomes more of a statement. And it offers an alternative to a ‘Piece … ContinuedThe post The Modifier’s Series – Artisans De Genève and their 5 best models so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
From his perfect perch in Geneva, Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV discusses in depth the effects of the current COVID-19 crisis as it affects the watch world.
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SJX Watches
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
Time+Tide
Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
GQ just dropped the latest video from their On The Rocks series, with the face-tatted hip-hop heavyweight that is Post Malone. His watch collection is nothing short of unreal – it’s a “hypebeasts” delight … which suits Posty down to the ground. But as is the case with just about everything in life, not all … ContinuedThe post Post Malone’s insane watch collection Part 1: With Rockstar Ratings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
According to many, many news stories over the last 12 months, India is expected to overtake China as the world’s most populous country within the next decade, with the current population of roughly 1.37 billion set to skyrocket. It’s a country on the up and up, and its people are developing quite the taste for … ContinuedThe post These are the five best watches in India, by popularity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Breaking News: Citizen is the latest to exit from Baselworld 2020, citing worries about the current epidemic of COVID-19 as the reasons.
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