Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Rolex Datejust Alternatives: 13 Picks We Reviewed Hands-on
We tested the best Rolex Datejust alternatives for everyday wear, from affordable dress watches to luxury-leaning picks with clean, office-to-dinner appeal.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fratello
Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing
By now, many of you should know what Albishorn is. It’s a unique approach in the indie watch scene, the love child of industry veteran Sébastien Chaulmontet, with a clever concept. Albishorn timepieces ask, “What if?” The brand’s models are modern “reinterpretations” of vintage watches that never existed. Their Marinagraph Paraíba Racing is the latest […] Visit Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing to read the full article.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - An Extensive Look at Modern Alternatives to the Lever Escapement
There’s an old saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” That could easily apply to the lever escapement, a design so perfected that almost all mechanical watches rely on it today after its debut in 1754. It’s reliable, accurate and easily mass produced, and watchmakers like Rolex and Patek Philippe have lever escapement movements […]
Fratello
Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron - A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes
There are timepieces that cosplay as tool watches, and then there are those that feel genuinely overbuilt for reasons completely unrelated to marketing. The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron belongs firmly in the latter camp. It’s a watch that seems to exist because somebody in Zurich genuinely thought a 500m-rated dive chronograph with a regatta timer […] Visit Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition
Orient Star introduces three new Contemporary Date watches. These approachable timepieces highlight clean, easy-to-read designs. The 75th-anniversary version leads the way with a blue-green “Aurora” gradient dial. It brings a welcome burst of color to the lineup. This version is limited to 1,200 pieces. Alongside it are two regular-collection models with a muted purple dial […] Visit Introducing: New Orient Star Contemporary Date Models, Including A 75th-Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Manually Wound Seiko Going to start off this week with a simple yet brilliant vintage Seiko. I’ve had a couple of these over the years, and it’s a great looking and reliable model. The steel case is around 36mm if I recall correctly, and this one is in excellent, unpolished shape. Classic round case with nice strong lugs. The dial is a bold blue, with a white bullseye ring and applied steel markers. Steel dauphine hands and no date give this a sharp, unique look that isn’t too flashy. The watch comes on the correct original Seiko beads of rice bracelet, which is so comfortable and great looking to boot. This example dates to April 1974. No movement pictures but the seller states it runs well, and my experience with these is that the movements are quite robust, like most Seikos. View auction here Vintage Waltham Next up is a nice vintage Waltham sporty/dress watch. The 34mm steel case looks sharp and unpolished, with stylish thin lugs. The classic silver dial is super clean, with nice applied steel thin arrow markers. It has steel dauphine hands with lume lines in them, and the second hand has a nice red arrow tip to help it stand out. No pesky date window to mar the peac...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: A Truly Wild Tudor Collector Meet Up In Geneva
Not all collector events are made equal. Back in April, during Watches and Wonders, I got an invite to swing by the Tudor HQ in Geneva for a special dinner. I assumed this would be like most brand dinners, including Tudor examples from the past, a glass of wine, a flying buffet, and a seated dinner. I could not have been more wrong. Rather than hors d'oeuvres and the looming possibility of a mid-dinner dance presentation, I walked into a room absolutely packed with vintage Tudors, along with many of the personalities who had either collected the watches firsthand or helped establish the knowledge surrounding the collection. A group of singular 34mm Tudor Oyster, including a 1972 Cotton Bowl watch and matching hat. Honestly, after a long day at the Palexpo for the fair, the collection of watches and ephemera was entirely overwhelming. I did my best to shoot what I could as well as I could. In scenarios where a watch or two was lost to glare, flash, or both, I tried to add an additional photo to cover it. That said, I am 100% sure I didn't get to everything, and many of the watches you see below could be (or have been) the subject of entire stories. A Tudor Submariner 9411. So scroll on for a look at an insane array of Submariners, Rangers, Oysters, Chronographs, and more. Look closely for special dials, special bezels, military-issued examples, rare references, early models, notable school watches, and even a couple of ultra-rare watches with double-signed dials. Towa...
Monochrome
Industry News - Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement
As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Electrifying Dial of the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning
Indie watch brand Ming was founded by Malaysian photographer, designer and engineer Ming Thein in 2017. Since then, Ming has amassed a devoted following for its contemporary design-led watches distinguished by minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour. The latest 37.06 Lightning, a joint project between Ming and J.N. Shapiro Watches, a Los Angeles-based watchmaker, is the […]
Worn & Wound
Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning
When the Alternative Horological Alliance was formed in 2024, I think many of us who care about this sort of thing immediately began speculating about possible collaborations between the brands involved. The teams at Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (as well as Fears and Massena LAB, two brands added after the founding of the alliance) have clear affinity for one another. And while there might not be obvious ties between the watches they make, clearly there is a perspective on the watch landscape itself that’s shared among the group, and sometimes that’s what makes for the best partnerships. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro have announced the launch of the 37.06 Lightning, which amounts to the first watch released collaboratively by members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (although Ming and J.N. Shapiro did work together on the AHA tantalum bracelet and the tantalum cases for the Ming Project 21). The star of the show is a dial that combines elements of what both brands excel at, and is notable as each individual dial has a bit of handcraft applied by the founders of both brands. You would expect, I think, a J.N. Shapiro branded watch to feature hand guilloche of some type as that is really the brand’s calling card at this point, and the 37.06 Lightning is no exception. It distinguishes itself, though, in the guilloche pattern used, which is referred to by the brands as “lightning guilloche” and is being used for the first time by Shapiro on this watch. Sh...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand
Over the past few years, Paris-based brand Laps has been offering watches built around graphic design and artistic expression. Collections such as Signature Art Print presented affordable quartz-powered references with fun dial designs inspired by architecture, photography, illustration and contemporary culture. The emphasis was always on visual storytelling rather than traditional watchmaking. Now the brand […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Collection Expands with 39mm and 36mm Steel Models
Only a few integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches can claim the same continuity as the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. Introduced in 1975, at the height of the quartz era, the model combined the brand’s technical expertise with a distinctive design defined by an octagonal bezel set on a circular plinth, a tonneau-shaped case and an integrated bracelet. Over […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch PADI 60th Anniversary HBB002 Limited
Over the past decade, Seiko and the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) have given us a steady stream of collaborative dive watches. We have recently seen the Prospex PADI SPB501 and Prospex PADI SRPL51 with their amazing emerald green wave-like dials. Earlier years also brought special editions based on platforms such as the Samurai […]
![Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/16891390-a790-4ec8-9293-1e162cd07990/1C2A0782.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]
Last week, we brought back the second edition of what will start to become a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Watches of Switzerland SoHo was once again the venue, and Editor-in-Chief James Stacey hosted a very fun evening. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of June. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Patek Philippe 5940J. Zenith Sporto. Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36. Casio G-Shock x Hender Scheme DW-5900UD-1. Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5180/1R-001 18K Skeleton. C by Romain Gauthier and a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in White Gold. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Rolex Land-Dweller 36 A nice variety of local beverages were on offer from Grotta. Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A. Tudor Black Bay 58 and a Rolex-GMT Master II "Batman". Timex Ironman, Tudor Pelagos, Breitling Aerospace. Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726A. Dennison Dual Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface, Univeral Genève FS, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sinn T50. Hodinkee's Editor-in-Chief James Stacey serving pizza and talking watches. Rolex Oyster Perpetual. Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V. Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570. Hodinkee's TanTan Wang and Pedro Vidal. Thanks to Upside Pizza for the pizza. Rolex Submariner, Jaeger-L...
Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 in a New Smaller Case
Coming out of Watches & Wonders, there was plenty of commentary that Tudor had an iterative, kind of “off” year with a confusing pseudo-heritage piece in the Monarch being an unexpected standard bearer. We, frankly, really enjoyed all the new stuff, and thought some of the reactions were a bit out of left field, but regardless, I think their announcement today should get many of the skeptics claiming Tudor has lost a step to rethink their takes. The new Tudor “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono 39 is not merely a fun new summer color for their flagship chronograph, but an entirely new case size for that watch that speaks directly to enthusiasts who have been asking for a scaled down version. Tudor is positioning the “Bumblebee” as a follow up to the Pink and Flamingo Blue chronographs that have appeared over the last few years. These brightly colored watches have been incredibly popular with collectors as alternatives to the standard black and white variants. Here we have a bright yellow dial with contrasting black subdials at 9 and 3 with a black tachymeter bezel in aluminum. The snowflake hands and hour markers are also outlined in black, and there’s a black minute track at the dial’s perimeter, all of which play up the “Bumblebee” theme. But the real news here is that new case. It measures 39mm in diameter in stainless steel, and 13.1mm in height. That’s down from 14.1mm tall on the larger 41mm chronograph, which is a meaningful difference. The lug to...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New, More Compact Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Bumblebee
An important and yet slightly different member of the wide Black Bay family of dive watches, the Black Bay Chrono was released in 2017, not without some comments from the crowd. Indeed, the watch featured diving elements, the signature Snowflake hands, solid water-resistance, but also racing cues such as a tachymeter scale. Since its launch, […]
Fratello
Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph
Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme
One of the Rolex novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026 was the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 with a green ombré lacquer dial (ref. 126334). Essentially, it is a new dial variant for the largest Datejusts in The Crown’s collection. However, it’s not just a new color but also part of a series of watches marking […] Visit The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Yacht-Master II
Rolex commands a lot of attention during Watches & Wonders, and this year much of the focus was on the enamel-dialled Daytona — a high-tech, high-priced, off-catalogue variant of one of the hottest watches in the industry. But the brand’s other chronograph, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, also got a much-needed — but still unexpected — makeover, transforming it from an ugly duckling into a compelling chronograph for the contrarian collector. Initial thoughts Despite the pre-event teaser posted to social media, the launch of an updated Yacht-Master II still managed to feel like a surprise. The original Yacht-Master II debuted in the pre-financial crisis exuberance of 2007 and exemplified the tastes of the era, being something of the Royal Oak Offshore of the Rolex line-up. It was big and brash but offered enough technical substance to stay intellectually relevant, even as the model lost enthusiasm in collector circles before its discontinuation in 2024. The updated Yacht-Master II improves on the original in every way, dialing back the ostentation and doubling down on the technical merit. The new Yacht-Master II is available in stainless steel or full 18k yellow gold, and offers a decent value proposition in either configuration given the technical sophistication of the calibre and the high quality of make. As the standard-bearer of the luxury watch industry, Rolex could charge more than it does and the brand’s restraint is notable. The full-gold ref. 1266...
SJX Watches
A Petite, Powerful Movement Inside Blancpain’s Marilyn Monroe Watch
A hundred years after Marilyn Monroe’s birth, Blancpain is marking the occasion with the Ladybird Tribute Marilyn, seven watches modelled on a vintage Blancpain wristwatch once owned by Monroe herself. Rectangular in form and set with diamonds, the Ladybird Tribute is typical of 1940s style, but the movement inside is surprising. The cal. 510 inside is a tiny movement by modern standards, but is nonetheless high-spec. The calibre manages a respectable 50-hour power reserve and sophisticated, skeletonised construction, underlining the high quality mechanics typical of Blancpain. Initial thoughts We don’t normally feature such watches but the cal. 510 is worth a pointing out, even if it’s not a brand-new movement. Blancpain’s technical know-how was on full display with last year’s outsized Grande Double Sonnerie, but the cal. 510 proves the brand can still do a lot in a very small space. Most tiny ladies’ watches contain pedestrian movements, so the cal. 510 stands out. To start with, it’s a form movement conceived to fit the case. And while small, the movement incorporates a variety of notable features, including a free-sprung balance, longish power reserve, and appealing finishing. Notably, it is much more sophisticated than newer form movements from competing brands (with more expensive watches). The watch itself is retro, which is unsurprising given it’s a remake of Monroe’s original. While it might seem a little old fashioned, this will do well as a co...
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.
The emergence of Naoya Hida as a major player in the independent space has been one of the more exciting developments in watches over the last few years. Whether Hida’s watches are to your taste or not (or your budget) there’s no denying that the brand presents a crystal clear point of view and takes no shortcuts to execute on it. In an environment with, frankly, a lot of half baked ideas, there’s something satisfying about a brand that knows exactly what it is. So it’s incredibly interesting that right on the heels of their recent 2026 launches, the brand has announced a new collaboration with Zenith on their G.F.J. platform. This is honestly one of those world-colliding moments for me and I’m pretty excited about not only the watch but what this might signal for both Zenith and Naoya Hida moving forward. The G.F.J. feels like the right line for a brand like Naoya Hida to work within – it’s already cited as a watch that trades a little on the current trend toward artisanal dials (in exotic stones, specifically) that have become favorites among many high end indies. And there’s an undeniable synergy between the classic mid century design codes of the G.F.J. case and Naoya Hida’s aesthetic sensibility. The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is the first in what Zenith is referring to as their new “Double Signed” program, which will, according to the brand, invite selected partners to reinterpret iconic references. The naming con...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite, a Celestial Dial for the 75th Anniversary
Orient Star is not usually the first name that comes to mind when looking for meteorite-dial watches. The Japanese brand has instead built a reputation around solid mechanics, attractive finishing, and sensible pricing for its watches. That is precisely why the new M34 F8 Date Meteorite caught our attention when it was announced earlier this […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Why the Omega Speedmaster and Doxa Sub 300 Make the Best Two Watch Collection
After a decade of buying and flipping watches, the Omega Speedmaster and Doxa Sub 300 are the only two I'd grab on the way out the door. Here's why.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Delma Commander 40mm, A More Compact and Versatile Pilot’s Watch
In 2024, Delma celebrated its 100th anniversary with a few pleasant releases, such as the Heritage Chronograph, and even unexpected ones, such as the 1924 Tourbillon. Unexpected because the brand is particularly known for professional dive watches such as the Shell Star, Blue Shark and Quattro, alongside sports-oriented collections like the Midland and racing-inspired Continental. […]
SJX Watches
Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G
The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically. Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics. The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year. So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Squale 2001 Marina Militare, Developed for the Italian Navy, Available for the Public
When it comes to dive watches, some brands might be sort of a niche for a wide audience, but still carry a great legacy for the diving community. So is Squale, a brand that celebrated its 65th anniversary in 2024 and was created by Charles Von Büren, a renowned case maker. Since then, several models […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition
What We Know Every year on June 1, Oris celebrates the founding of its brand by releasing watches named after its hometown. This time, they're doing so with 250 numbered pieces based on the brand's new Artelier watch. The new version features small seconds, a 120-hour power reserve, the Caliber 401 movement, and an interesting retro-futuristic style. The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 has a stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.1mm, a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 30m water resistance. The dial is light grey with a subtle fumé effect from its shape, with a brighter subsidiary seconds dial in a mirror finish and a small red seconds hand. That silver, domed dial and claw-style hour markers make the watch feel a bit like a throwback to the late 1960s, but with modern specifications. The hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova. As a bonus, the movement (while not COSC-certified) has an accuracy of 3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic. It's also automatic winding. The caseback uses a special laser treatment that engraves the Oris Bear, features the words "Hölstein Edition 2026," and produces a mirror-like, iridescent rainbow finish. To steal the description from one of the greatest haircuts known to man, it's business in the front and party in the back. The watch retails for CHF 3,800. What We Think Oris has been doing these limited editions, as far as I can tell, since 2020, and each one has been anything but traditional. Obviously, the Oris bear often plays a ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401
The Hölstein Editions are Oris’ annual limited-edition watches, released each June 1st to celebrate the brand’s birthday and honour its roots in Hölstein, Switzerland. Introduced in the early 2000s, the more elegant Artelier family was fully redesigned this year to become a more contemporary and versatile lineup. Marking its 122nd birthday, Oris releases the Hölstein Edition 2026, […]
Fratello
The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 - A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home
On June 1st of every year since 2020, Oris has introduced a homage to Hölstein, the Swiss village that the brand calls home. According to Oris CEO Rolf Studer, it’s also a “thank you” from Oris to the Oris community. For this year’s edition, Oris used its new Artelier model, introduced at Watches and Wonders […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 — A New Artelier Paying Tribute To Oris’s Home to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Bell & Ross BR-05 Chrono S.T. Dupont, Merging Gold and Cigars
Cars have inspired watches for decades, and pilot watches are literally a category of their own – even video games and roulette tables have found their way into watch design. Cigars, however, remain a far less common source of inspiration, although Bell & Ross is no stranger to this theme. Over the past two decades, […]