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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Feb 6, 2026

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V LS Ceramic

The Urwerk UR-100 has become one of my favorite designs in high end independent watchmaking. Whenever I encounter one (a rare event given the brand’s annual production of just around 200 watches total) I’m blown away by the way it distills the essence of the brand into a completely wearable, compact, package. I’ve always been a fan of the Urwerk philosophy, but until I tried on a UR-100 I always felt the watches themselves might be too ungainly or oddly shaped for me personally. There’s something about this case though, mostly its impressive thinness, that makes it feel like a “normal” watch on the wrist but still something otherworldly when you look down to check the time. That, to me, feels like a sweet spot.  The latest from Urwerk brings a new watch into the UR-100 lineage with the UR-100V LS Ceramic. This is effectively a new variant of the original UR-100V LS (short for “light speed,” which we’ll get to momentarily) that appeared in 2024. The new watch features a white ceramic case, a first for the brand and more complex than it first appears, and the same whimsical ideology of its predecessor, and many other Urwerk watches, which are all in one way or another a commentary on timekeeping itself.  All Urwerks (well, almost all) share a common wandering hour satellite time telling mechanism that has become their calling card. It’s actually a rather mechanically elegant way to tell the time, basically with a wandering hour “pointer” to a fixed ...

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars Monochrome
Sarpaneva Feb 6, 2026

Introducing – The New Sarpaneva Stardust Pluto and Stardust Mars

Since founding Sarpaneva Watches in Helsinki, the independent Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has consistently explored an approach shaped by the Nordic visual universe, mechanical honesty and a powerful sense of narrative. Best known for his Korona case design and expressive moon displays, Sarpaneva has built a recognisable catalogue which offers a combination of traditional watchmaking […]

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Seafarer Navigates Feb 6, 2026

Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides

One of the most talked-about watches of this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer reimagines Heuer’s quirky midecentury tide-tracker in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its warm hues and vibrant teal accents, the Seafarer captures much of the charm of the original while incorporating most (if not all) of the brand’s latest technical upgrades. Initial thoughts The Carrera Seafarer belongs to the tradition of historical reissues, in the same vein as watches like the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” and Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 that give new life to past icons. While these reruns can get tiring, there continue to be instances in which the original model has become too iconic to not be given another go.  Such is the case with the Seafarer, a quirky creation from the 1940s originally sold under the Abercrombie & Fitch name, which was, at the time, a premium sporting goods retailer trusted by the likes of Ernest Hemingway. Interestingly, the original was never a true commercial success, but its novel complication and vibrant colourways have since made it highly collectible in recent years.  Much like early Rolex Daytonas, the original Seafarers were under appreciated in their time but later gained a niche following. Dressed in the modern Carrera Glassbox case, the Seafarer shines with its champagne-coloured dial, blocky typeface and playful chromatics. Thankfully the reissue stays true to the original’s purpos...

Introducing – Around the Dial in 24 Hours with the New Farer World Timers Monochrome
Farer World Timers British indie Feb 5, 2026

Introducing – Around the Dial in 24 Hours with the New Farer World Timers

British indie brand Farer was founded in 2015 by four friends with backgrounds in watch retail. Using Swiss-made mechanical movements, Farer offers a portfolio of confident designs with an eccentric British twist and competitive prices, thanks to the brand’s direct-to-consumer approach that eliminates intermediaries. The name Farer, derived from Old English terms like seafarer and […]

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 5, 2026

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour

I have what you might call a love/hate relationship with Audemars Piguet. They are, without a doubt, makers of some of the finest watches in the world. Objectively speaking, there’s a level of craft involved with the production of AP watches that is hard to match at the scale at which they operate. Every Royal Oak I’ve ever handled feels like a perfectly made thing without any compromises. I honestly can’t say the same about equivalent watches from other brands in the so-called Holy Trinity.  And yet, there’s so much baggage with Audemars Piguet in our current watch culture. I wrote about it here, specifically as it relates to the Royal Oak and how it has become a signifier of wealth and status that has overshadowed watchmaking and watch culture. I find this flex culture to be a huge turn off, and the way AP seems to lean into it, by producing more and more varieties of Royal Oak, some with mini sculptures of Marvel characters on the dial, to be a signal that they’re a willing participant in the watering down of their brand.  But then Audemars Piguet will go ahead and release something beautiful that is not a Royal Oak and I’m reminded that derisively referring to them as The Royal Oak Company (something I’ve done frequently over these last few years) is ultimately unfair. Earlier this week, as part of a larger drop that included several exotic Royal Oaks, a pocket watch, and more, AP launched what might be one of the riskier watches they’ve introduced in...

Introducing: The Roaring Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team In Titanium Fratello
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Feb 5, 2026

Introducing: The Roaring Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team In Titanium

The Formula 1 season is about to start, and that also means new sponsors will appear on the cars. Beginning this season, Breitling will have its name and logo on the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team cars raced by Canadian Lance Stroll and Spanish double World Champion Fernando Alonso. Breitling is the team’s Official […] Visit Introducing: The Roaring Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team In Titanium to read the full article.

Introducing – The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Stainless Steel and Rose Gold with Agave Blue Dial Monochrome
Feb 5, 2026

Introducing – The Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Stainless Steel and Rose Gold with Agave Blue Dial

Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF collection introduced a new vision of contemporary haute horlogerie built around restraint, proportion and what CEO Guido Terreni calls “private luxury”, watches designed to be lived with rather than constantly replaced. Among the first models was the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor, a slim automatic watch with a date display. The […]

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Fratello
Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Feb 5, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius

Collaborations in high watchmaking are nothing new, but most stop at the wrist. The LA VDB-03 Louis Varius Project goes a step further by pairing a modern GMT wristwatch with a large mechanical clock designed to wind and reset it automatically. Developed jointly by Louis Vuitton and De Bethune, the project brings together a contemporary […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius to read the full article.

First Look – The New Niton Prima Revives a Historic Name Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Cartier Gubelin Feb 5, 2026

First Look – The New Niton Prima Revives a Historic Name

The revival of a long-dormant watchmaking name always sparks our curiosity at MONOCHROME. Born in 1919, the Manufacture des Montres Niton S.A. became known for its watches and movements featuring jumping hours. Niton supplied movements to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Gubelin and many more… Today, the brand returns with the Niton Prima, an elaborate […]

The Best JDM Seiko Watches And Their Modern Alternatives Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 4, 2026

The Best JDM Seiko Watches And Their Modern Alternatives

As we all well know by now, the watch-collecting hobby can get hyper-specific. Today, I am wading into the weeds of one of the most highly specialized sub-genres of the Seiko collecting universe, that of Japanese Domestic Market pieces from the brand, which I will be referring to here on out as JDM Seikos. Down below, I’m going to walk you through, first and foremost, what the term JDM Seiko actually means, then get into the most universally coveted models, and similar watches that you can more easily find in the brand’s international repertoire. [toc-section heading="JDM Seikos vs. “Japanese-Made”Seikos"] Image: Provenance Watches Given that Seiko is one of Japan’s most significant and historic watchmakers, you might be asking, as you find yourself here in this section, “Seiko is a Japanese brand, so aren’t all Seikos Japanese-Made?” As with most things, the answer is not as straightforward as the question. If we were to base our answer on the framework dictated by the U.S. Trade Commission standards, any watch that has a movement assembled in Japan is good enough to be considered Japanese-made. This casts a pretty wide net. Japan, on the other hand, follows the more rigorous parameters set by the APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum). Based on APEC standards, a watch movement and dial components must be assembled in Japan to rightfully claim “Japanese Made” status. Across its catalog, if Seiko can rightly claim the “Japanese Made” label ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2026

Out of Office: Exploring the Sundance Film Festival and Utah’s Wasatch Mountains

My very first date with my now-wife was a Sundance documentary. We were college students and managed to get into the film with student-priced tickets after waitlisting for a few hours armed with a deck of cards, in the cold of Park City, UT. Since then, one or both of us have gone to the Sundance Film Festival nearly every year. The post Out of Office: Exploring the Sundance Film Festival and Utah’s Wasatch Mountains appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing – The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Feb 4, 2026

Introducing – The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

In recent years, Audemars Piguet has decisively refined the Code 11.59 collection, transforming it into a serious platform for contemporary haute horlogerie. For 2026, the brand unveils a fresh interpretation of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon, now with an ivory-toned signature dial and a sophisticated mix of white gold and black […]

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize Worn & Wound
Longines Grand Prize Longines Feb 4, 2026

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize

Longines is a storied and well-respected Swiss watch manufacture that formed in 1832 and has continued uninterrupted to this day. From the first wrist chronometer in 1911, to groundbreaking flyback chronographs in the 1930s, to the world’s first hi-beat wrist chronometer in 1959, Longines holds their own in the watchmaking world.  My favorite period for watches is the 1950s through the 1970s and Longines was one of the top accessible brands during that time. In 1954 Longines began a marketing strategy of product families, launching the Conquest line of watches. In 1957 they introduced the Flagship line, adding to what would become a large group of watch families, many of which are still made today. Other lines that came later include the Admiral, the Ultra-Chron and the Grand Prize. The Grand Prize line was named in honor of the multitude of watchmaking awards and honors that Longines had accumulated over the decades. It was a relatively short-lived family, produced from about 1958 to 1964 according to my research. I have found that the majority of Longines watches produced during these decades were all fairly equal in quality and craftsmanship, with most of the differences in the families being design related. The Conquests were rugged and sporty, on par with the early non-diver Omega Seamaster watches. The Flagship series were dress watches, while the Admiral line was a mixture of both. The Grand Prize family were pretty much all thin, elegant everyday type dressier w...

Introducing – The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm in Pink Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm Feb 4, 2026

Introducing – The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm in Pink Gold

Audemars Piguet introduced the Code 11.59 in 2019, emerging as a contemporary AP-style expression of classic watchmaking. Over the years, the line has matured, expanded and reviewed its proportions. Introduced in 2023, the 38mm case offered a more compact and versatile interpretation of the Code 11.59 design. In early 2026, the brand presents two new […]

Introducing – Travelling at the Speed of Light, Urwerk Releases the UR-100V LightSpeed Ceramic Monochrome
Urwerk Releases Feb 4, 2026

Introducing – Travelling at the Speed of Light, Urwerk Releases the UR-100V LightSpeed Ceramic

Urwerk’s mechanical ingenuity and sci-fi vessels have propelled the brand into the realm of cosmic watchmaking. Renowned for their wandering hour and satellite indications, founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner captured the three dimensions of time, rotation and orbit with the UR-100 SpaceTime of 2019. An evolution of the UR-100, the UR-100V returns to Earth […]

Introducing – Green Malachite Dials for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 and 41mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 Feb 4, 2026

Introducing – Green Malachite Dials for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 and 41mm

The trend for stone dials has had a bandwagon effect in the watch industry, with players, small and large, succumbing to the temptation of adorning their models with exotic stones and even slivers of meteorite. However, like Piaget, Audemars Piguet got a head start in the field, with stone dials on its ultra-thin dress watches […]

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Upgrades Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium, Now In Ruby Red Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Now Feb 4, 2026

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium, Now In Ruby Red

Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury sports watch family is now in its third generation, but its roots trace back to the 222 model of 1977. A well-represented collection with complications and straightforward time-and-date models, the Overseas is widely acclaimed for its attractive design, high-end finishings, in-house movements and versatility. In 2019, a tourbillon was added to […]

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame

Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths Worn & Wound
Piaget Feb 3, 2026

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths

Few other watchmakers enjoyed as much success and cachet as Heuer, especially during the fervent 1960s and 1970s. Not only had it launched one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, but it pushed the envelope on modern design with midcentury-cool chronographs like the uniquely square Monaco. Heuer was riding high on the glamor of Grand Prix: the Heuer shield was as indelible to the backdrops of Monza and Le Mans as Ferrari, Porsche, and McLaren themselves as the official timekeeper of Formula One.  But, inevitably, the quartz revolution came for Heuer. Jack Heuer was the third-generation CEO of the company that bore his name, and he had been a savvy marketer, personally hawking chronographs to drivers like Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. By the 1980s, however, he found himself backed into a corner, and in 1982, he was forced to sell the company to Piaget and Lemania-a humiliating low point in his life, as he recounted in his autobiography.  Yet, before he departed, he gave Heuer one saving grace. In 1979, he commissioned Heuer’s first dive watch, the Professional Series. At a trade show Jack had overheard a brief conversation about the unreliability of existing dive watches, and he aimed to emulate Rolex’s success with the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. (Incidentally, Rolex owned half of Heuer’s stock market shares, and nearly took over the company around this time.)  Photo by Blake Rong Heuer had spent the decade building an electronic timing division, which b...