3,563 articles · 27 videos found · page 23 of 120
Fratello
When it comes to watches, the little things often make the biggest difference. A power reserve indicator on the dial, the shape of a hand, or the location of a date are small but crucial factors in whether enthusiasts can fall in love with a watch. As a design fan and someone who worked in […] Visit The Curious Case Of The Boring Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
In a Pusha T verse, every detail is chosen with purpose. Watches have long been a constant in his lyrics–they are part status symbol, part cultural shorthand, and always a reflection of how closely he pays attention. This kind of specificity is central to his writing, and it is also the clearest way into a watch collection that is not only bold in appearance, but governed by a set of standards. He describes himself as a student of culture, and over the years, that knowledge shaped a specific set of rules. Pusha buys through authorized channels, favors factory-set stones, and rejects aftermarket work. His lyrics about ruined Pateks and Cartier bust-downs are not simply jokes; he sees them as a kind of tutorial on what to do and what to avoid. Many of his watches are unapologetically gem-set, but the distinction is not between understated and extravagant. It is between an original idea and an imitation of one. Pusha's collection of Rolexes he brought that day. Then there is the waiting. Pusha named Daytona for what the watch represented to him: the luxury of taking the time required to get something right. The same principle now defines how he collects. Some watches arrived when they could still be bought from a display case. Others took years of patience. The watches on the table connect those two eras, revealing a collector whose access may have changed, but whose standards have not. This is Talking Watches with Pusha T. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16618LN With Black Dial...
WristBuzz
Jumping hours, a scrolling minute disc, and that unmistakable De Bethune savoir-faire - the DB25 Digitale is one of the highlights of Geneva Watch Days.
SJX Watches
Bulgari had a number of surprises in store for Geneva Watch Days, which helped the brand stand out from a somewhat quiet field. At the top of the list was the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, which shoehorns the steampunk aesthetic developed by Jeff Barnes and Vianney Halter into Bulgari’s minimalist Octo Finissimo platform. The confluence of designs mostly succeeds, whether in sandblasted titanium or 18k rose gold. The latter recalls Vianney Halter’s beloved Antiqua, but the flat and wide Octo case gives this collaboration a distinct personality. Initial thoughts Bulgari is no stranger to collaborations, and neither is Vianney Halter, who is surely one of the most prolific collaborators in the field of independent watchmaking. At Geneva Watch Days alone, three different brands exhibited watches with his name attached to them. Notably, the French watchmaker has collaborated with Massena Lab, Louis Erard, and even Behrens, the upstart from Shenzen. For Bulgari’s part, the brand’s product director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has developed the Octo Finissimo into a platform for experimentation, lending its sleek footprint to renowned architects, painters, and even tattoo artists, often to good effect. The versatility of the Octo Finissimo is due in large part to its singular character — its wide, aggressively tapering bracelet and ultra-slim construction make it recognisable with or without the Bulgari logo or other decorative treatments. The collaborat...
Fratello
With a collection as extensive as A. Lange & Söhne’s, it’s tough to pick favorites. A long string of highlights showcases the German marque’s incredible horological skill, making A. Lange & Söhne one of my most beloved watch brands. I love the combination of technical wizardry and the geometric approach to design. Because of this, […] Visit Downsizing With Two New A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Big Crown Pointer Date has been a staple in the Oris collection since 1938 and is one of the most recognisable designs in Swiss watchmaking. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Oris reimagines its signature model in a compact 29mm case, creating a more delicate and decorative expression for smaller wrists while carefully preserving the […]
Monochrome
Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and backed by the Italian Zivani family, was revived by Federico Zivani after the designer’s death and reappeared in 2020 with an idiosyncratic Genta design from 2006. Known as the Maestro, the asymmetric baroque-style case is the backbone of the brand. […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Last year, we covered Baltic's relaunch of the Aquascaphe, their vintage-leaning traditional-style diver (not to be confused with their dual-crown version). That release came in several colors and two sizes. Now they're relaunching the Aquascaphe GMT as a new Mark II version. While the aesthetic changes are more subtle than on the diver, the changes under the hood are more substantial. The Aquascaphe GMT MK-II has a subtly redesigned case profile (39.5mm by 13.8mm, 316L stainless steel, with a 47mm lug-to-lug), with the most distinguishing feature being the new crown guards that make the case distinctly more modern. The rest of the case has been reworked (it is 0.5mm wider and 0.8mm thicker), with vertical brushing on the lugs and 200m water resistance. The watch still has a luminous 24-click GMT sapphire bidirectional bezel. The caseback engraving (which we've posted a picture of later in the story), on the other hand, is simplified from the globe design on the first version. What used to be three color variants is now four, all with glossy black dials and Super-LumiNova BGW9. One has a blue-and-light-blue bezel with light-blue dial text and a GMT hand. Another is a "Pepsi" style with red accents. The third has a blue-and-green bezel, and the last, the newest, is black and grey with orange accents. The hands and indices are a bit bolder and rounder. Inside the case, the brand has changed to a "flyer" Miyota 9075 GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The ...
Hodinkee
There was a whisper going around Watches & Wonders this year that Rolex had created a set of Daytonas inspired by each of the four seasons – precious metal, gem-set, and, what none of us could really believe, just one of each in the world. In other words, Rolex had made a unique set of watches. And as most of you likely know, Rolex is not in the business of creating one of anything, really. But they'd done it here, and the story goes that they'd asked each of their retailers to submit names and profiles of those who might be a worthy owner of this box set of "Four Seasons" Daytonas. The price? Roughly CHF 4million. Platinum and lapis! Yellow gold and mookaite and chrysoprase! And despite the few details shared, interest in the set was simply overwhelming. Rumor had it that over 1,000 names were submitted for the multi-million-dollar set before the show ended. The names included some of the most famous people in the world. And yet, Rolex, by their own admission, wasn't quite sure how they would decide who would get it. They'd never expected such interest. Well as of this morning, now we know. For the first time that I can remember, Rolex will hold a charity auction and sell off these four unique Daytonas to the highest bidder. It will take place on September 28 of this year in London, in conjunction with Phillips auction house. All proceeds will go to two charities helmed by arguably Rolex's most famous and influential testimonies, Roger Federer's Federer Foundation and...
WristBuzz
The revived Gérald Genta marque heads to Geneva Watch Days 2026 with a warm, golden twist on last year's striking Black Onyx minute repeater
Fratello
For most of the last 20 years, watch marketing has quietly pushed in one direction — bigger. Cases grew from the 33–38mm range that once counted as a normal men’s watch into the 40mm+ territory that now reads as standard. A handful of watches, old and new, from Rolex, IWC and Tudor (although there are […] Visit Are Smaller Watches Actually Better In Design And On The Wrist? to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Oris closes out its Muppets trilogy with The Great Gonzo, and the ProPilot X platform finally meets a character as unhinged as the watch itself
SJX Watches
To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...
Hodinkee
What We Know In honor of the centennial of legendary musician Miles Davis' birth, Breitling has just announced a limited edition collection at Geneva Watch Days. I say collection because it's more than just one watch, if you want it to be. At the core, Breitling has launched a 500-piece limited-edition model, the steel Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, which is inspired by the ref. 806 Mk 5 Navitimer that was worn by the famous jazz musician. If a single steel option isn't enough for you Davis heads out there, Breitling is also producing 50 three-piece sets that offer a trio of executions of the watch, spanning steel, yellow gold, and even platinum with a blue dial. We can start with the core model, reference AB09501A1B1X1 or AB09501A1B1A1, depending on whether you want a leather strap or the bracelet (you want the bracelet). Measuring 41mm wide (the same as the reference worn by Davis), 13mm thick, and 47.1 mm lug-to-lug, the Navitimer Miles Davis uses a Breitling B09 hand-wound movement that is COSC-certified, ticks at 4 Hz, and employs both a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Water resistance is 30 meters, and this special edition sports both cream-colored lume and Breitling's (very cool) Twin Jet logo. And then there is the bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Air Racer bracelet that uses a cuff design with large holes. For this execution, Breitling has added hinged links near the clasp to help with comfort. But that's not all; aside from a gorgeous...
Hodinkee
What We Know Gerald Charles, known for their Maestro cases, continues to evolve that idea at this year's Geneva Watch Days, but this is the first time they've offered something where every piece is genuinely unique. It's based on a Gérald Genta design from 2007 called the Sarawak, a diamond-and-ruby integrated-bracelet watch created for the Royal family of Sarawak—unknown to the public until 2024—and the direct ancestor of the Masterlink. It's impressive to see the brand continue to iterate on Genta's own designs, decades on. The case looks familiar—it's a classic Maestro, coming in as a square at 38mm x 38mm. The svelte dimensions continue inside: a profile just 7.99mm thin, aided by the 2.67mm movement. There are three colorways here—Golden Rose, Rhodium, and Golden Yellow. The dial is clearly the focal point here, bringing a new element to the Masterlink lineup. Each dial is individually hand-hammered by an artisan at Gerald Charles's atelier in Geneva. It's made of maillechort—also known as German silver or nickel silver, a copper-nickel-zinc alloy — and is typically used for movement bridges and plates rather than dials. It wasn't chosen because it's easy to work with—quite the opposite: it requires longer production times, wears tools faster, and results in a higher rejection rate. Since each dial is hammered by hand, no two are identical, and there are no applied indexes here, leaving the hundreds of small facets in full view. Inside is the ultra-th...
Fratello
In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport as its modern sports chronograph. The new series was widely discussed immediately after its release, and despite (or perhaps due to) its hotly debated Rolex Daytona-like aesthetic, it became a massive commercial success for the Le Locle-based brand. Over time, Zenith introduced several new versions that widened the […] Visit A Surprising Series Of Three-Handers: The New Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know On the quieter side of Bulgari's releases for Geneva Watch Days this year, we have the titanium expression of the brand's expanding range of material-based models that follow elements of the design language of the Diagono. Following the models in aluminum and last year's release of the Bronzo GMT and Chronograph, we now have the Bulgari Titanio, which offers both a dual-time model and an automatic chronograph. The pair follows the established Bulgari format closely, modifying the recipe only for the use of grade 5 in this case, the bracelet articulation links, and the buckle. The Titanio Chronograph is 41mm wide with a sandblasted and satin-finished case that is 12.35mm thick. The Titanio GMT follows the same format, but with a 40mm case that is 9.7mm thick. Water resistance is 100 meters for both, and both come with a black rubber strap with titanium links and buckle. A titanium bracelet is an available option, but no pricing details are offered. The bezel, crown, and pushers are rendered in a black DLC finish, and both models feature a matte black dial with grey galvanic treatments on the hands. The Titanio Chronograph is powered by the Bulgari B381 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW300 with a Dubois-Dépraz module; it is a 4 Hz movement with a date at 4:30, a 50-hour power reserve, and a maximum chronograph measure of 12 hours. For the Titanio GMT, Bulgari employs the B192 automatic, which is based on the Sellita SW-330 and offers "caller-sty...
Worn & Wound
We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off. The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception. There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped...
SJX Watches
Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...
Fratello
Since 2020, Gagà Laboratorio has produced distinctive wristwatches with Italian flair and Swiss precision. The company’s catalog comprises two model lines, the Labormatic and the Aqualab. Both are progressively designed and appear to be the types of pieces that could cost as much as a high-end sports car. However, that couldn’t be further from the […] Visit Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...
Hodinkee
Welcome to August's end, everyone. I never know how to start these things—there's too much variety in most of our days, meaning that, short of borderline universal cultural experiences, it's hard to know what we'd all even know about. That said, I'd like to offer quick thanks: I've now lucked into writing Bring A Loupe for six months, and it's just tremendous fun, soup to nuts. Thanks for reading, and I look forward to working as hard as I can to not bore you for as long as I'm allowed. Also, boo to Dolly Parton's and Tim Curry's passing. Terrible plot twist. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hublot Orlinski's on hold, the Seiko Sportura sold for €1,350, the Breitling Tabarly for €760, and the Yema Tomahawk for £800. Strays I have failed to highlight fun skin divers over the last couple of weeks, so let me ameliorate that lack with this Dupont and this LIP. They share identical all-steel skin diver cases; the differences in their bezels are awfully minor, and the Dupont's got a bracelet, so maybe that's enough of a needle-mover. This Breguet Chronoscope pocketwatch in platinum's not in perfect condition—the dial's got a few spots—but it is also incredibly gorgeous, the design is fantastic, and Monaco Legend Group sold a silver version in 2023 for €16,000, so plan accordingly. I could be wrong, but it looks like this ultra-thin solid gold quartz Jaeger was made by other brands as well, among them Bulova (who called their version a Phantom) and Microma (appare...
WristBuzz
The Inflection gets a Geneva Watch Days 2026 upgrade, with Massena Lab bringing two gold dial variants to an already serious tantalum sports watch
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe in our era of always-online smart watches and AI-everything (eye rolls welcome), but there was a time when the digital watch was the new kid on the block, challenging analog conventions. Cries of “kids these days” abounded, and though the then-genuine worry of traditional timekeeping going obsolete seems a bit silly in retrospect, the modern electronic digital watch was a very real and groundbreaking thing when it was first introduced by Hamilton with the Pulsar in 1970. A battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator and LED display made it a marvel at the time, and it still commands respect on the collector market today. Like many kids of the 1990s and 2000s, my first “real” watch was a digital example, mainly because I was enamored with the ever-beeping buttons and light-up face. Still, I eventually wandered over to the analog side of watch fandom, and haven’t wavered since, a trajectory most enthusiasts will probably relate to. But in the wise words of an El Paso ad executive, “por que no los dos?” The Millennial and Zillenial era of nostalgia is here, creating a new clamoring for “retro” digital displays without sacrificing the pedigree (and social clout) that comes with an analog watch. Enter the ana-digi, a combo of both types of timekeeping. It’s not a new concept by any means, with huge brands like Casio and Citizen offering examples for decades, but those tend to be big, bulky tool watches. Not so with the new slate of s...
Teddy Baldassarre
Dizzy’s Club in Columbus Circle, an extension of Jazz at Lincoln Center, is one of New York City’s premier destinations for live jazz, with world-class acts performing directly in front of a panoramic view of the city skyline. In late July, I had the opportunity to experience one of these performances in person, along
Worn & Wound
Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...
Time+Tide
There are few periods in history that shaped Britain’s identity quite like the 1960s. It was a decade when the country seemed to lead the world in music, fashion and design. Jaguar E-Types, Triumph Bonnevilles, and Mini Coopers became rolling icons of British style, while Lambrettas and Vespas filled Carnaby Street as the Mod movement … Continued
Hodinkee
What We Know Straum has launched a new take on their integrated bracelet sports watch this week, shifting the focus from evoking nature to getting out and exploring. Fittingly named, the Expedition is the first watch in a new collection which Straum is calling "Built For". This will stand as a second pillar in the brand's offering, alongside the "Inspired By" collection, under which umbrella all the brand's previous releases fall. The most obvious visual cue that something here has changed is the redesigned dial, which swaps the deeply textured, colorful approach of previous Straum releases for a much more utilitarian vocabulary. With bright orange accents, huge amounts of lume, and subtly grained but largely flat dials, the emphasis is less on pure aesthetic appeal and more on legibility and practicality. The same approach has been taken with the case, which has been redesigned, but again, in largely subtle ways. The Grade 5 titanium case — which measures 38.2mm across, 45.7mm lug-to-lug, and is 11mm thick — has been reworked with broader case flanks, a stepped bezel, and a significantly enlarged screw-down crown meant to be usable in the cold or with gloves on. All together, the Expedition is decidedly new, but still clearly and recognizably a Straum. By default, the new watch comes fitted with a black FKM strap, though a new fully Grade 5 titanium case is also available for a modest upcharge, and since the watch uses Straum's strap system, any pre-existing straps an...
Monochrome
With the introduction of its BR-01 model in 2005, Bell & Ross took flight with its graphic, cockpit-inspired design language, translated into the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square geometry. In 2019, the brand ventured into less military, more urban terrain with its BR-05, a luxury integrated sports watch. As with the transition from the BR-01 to the […]
Fratello
Jack Mason has slowly been updating its collection over the past two years. In addition to refining its designs, the Texan brand has significantly improved the quality of its offerings. As a result, JM now has a concise but varied catalog of watches that are great for daily wear. After updating the existing collection with […] Visit Choosin’ Texas With The New Jack Mason Canton Day-Date to read the full article.
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