Future Classic: The 2017 Tudor Collection
Tudor embarks on a new phase of development by launching a trio of elegant Black Bay watches, one of which houses its first manufacture automatic chronograph caliber.
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Tudor embarks on a new phase of development by launching a trio of elegant Black Bay watches, one of which houses its first manufacture automatic chronograph caliber.
Time+Tide
Though Piaget has made a lot of noise in the past 12 months with the sporty steel Polo S, the undeniable heart of the collection is the ultra-slim and ultra-sexy Altiplano. Born in 1957 and named for the flat South American high plains, the Altiplano and the legendary caliber 9P that powered it, have become … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: 6 decades on and still going strong – the Piaget Altiplano 60th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In conversation with Dieter Pachner VP Sales Glashütte Original chronographs caliber 37 GO watches
Revolution
Zenith launches a new range of eye-catching models known as the El Primero Sport. They feature 45mm steel cases housing the famous El Primero 400 B high-speed automatic chronograph caliber. Let’s take a look. The case offers front and back sapphire crystals and 200-meter water resistance. The transparent caseback provides a view of the El […]
Revolution
Deadbeat seconds are popular this year, and the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat is an especially compelling example. Behind that beautiful dial, there’ s a new, patented caliber. The new Grande Seconde Deadbeat incorporates several subtle design elements. The Grande Seconde timepieces already featured, well, Grande Secondes. To place even greater emphasis on the seconds […]
Revolution
Bulgari marks its 40th anniversary this year, and the celebration will kick off at Baselworld with the addition of sapphire blue dials for two of the brand’s signature pieces, the Bulgari Bulgari and Octo, each of which is powered by the in-house caliber BVL 191 Solotempo. The Bulgari Bulgari watch dates to 1977, and it […]
Revolution
Above, TAG Heuer Carrera CH 80 as introduced at BaselWorld TAG Heuer has announced today that it will “postpone” production of its latest chronograph movement, the caliber CH 80, in order to “focus on” production of its cal. 1887, which is now referred to as the CH1887. “La Chaux-de-Fonds, June 5, 2014 – In order […]
Revolution
Basel Fair, 1957; Piaget stunned the world with the introduction of Caliber 9P. The importance of this movement for Piaget cannot be stressed enough. With a diameter of 20.5mm and a thickness of just 2mm it is not only one of the “founding fathers” of Piaget’s ultra-thin tradition, but it also provided Piaget’s designers the […]
Revolution
Audemars Piguet has its Gerald Genta designed Royal Oak. A steel watch/steel bracelet model with automatic caliber which is highly praised by the watch incrowd. Patek Philippe has its counterpart, the Nautilus, also designed by Gerald Genta and sharing that same concept of a steel case / steel bracelet and automatic movement. Similarly, since 1978, […]
Revolution
Gold & Color is the title of Piaget’s new exhibition in their Time Gallery. Two words that summarize a large portion of Piaget’s rich history. When Piaget wrote watchmaking history by introducing the 2mm thin manual wind caliber 9P in 1957, it was not about technical prowess, but much more about opening up a world […]
Revolution
The “baguette” isn’t some fancy way of calling french bread loaves, to the mechanically inclined, it is the namesake of the oblong shape of baguette movements. Though the concept was first introduced in 1929 care of Jaeger-LeCoulture caliber 101, it was Corum who recently brought the movement back into popular consciousness thanks to a patent […]
Deployant
Following up on my walkabout impressions of the quite remarkable Leica S2, here are some photographs I made in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Db25T before, it is a remarkable watch. I particularly love the jumping seconds hand, and the beautiful Caliber 2109 with the magnificent bridgeRead More
SJX Watches
Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...
Monochrome
For many people, 1969 is the year of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, Woodstock and the final live performance of The Beatles on a London rooftop. However, for watch enthusiasts, 1969 is the year Zenith unveiled the El Primero, the world’s first automatic, integrated chronograph calibre – and a high-frequency one to boot. Among the […]
Monochrome
When it was unveiled in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 362 stunned the horological world as the slimmest automatic minute repeater with a tourbillon regulator. For 2026, Jaeger revisits its high-complication masterpiece with the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, a ten-piece limited edition with an openworked dial reaffirming the Maison’s dominance in chiming mechanisms, […]
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]
Monochrome
Thirty years ago, Chopard’s co-president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, opened the Manufacture in Fleurier. The first in-house calibre, L.U.C 1.96, a slim automatic micro-rotor movement, made its debut inside the L.U.C XPS 1860 the following year. Rapidly ascending the complications ladder, in 2006, Chopard celebrated the tenth anniversary of its Manufacture with the release of the L.U.C […]
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations series turns the Louvre’s ancient masterpieces into wearable miniature artworks, blending high watchmaking with some of the Maison’s most demanding decorative crafts. Limited to 15 pieces each, the four watches use the calibre 2460 G4/2, a hand-finished automatic movement with peripheral displays that frees the dial for […]
Monochrome
Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]
Monochrome
When Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, the message was clear: the El Primero was entering a new, sportier chapter rather than living off 1969 nostalgia. Exploiting the full potential of the calibre 3600’s 5Hz frequency, the 1/10th-of-a-second readings put the Chronomaster Sport luxury sports watch in a class of its own. The latest […]
Monochrome
For about a decade, the classic blue dial TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11, also known as the “Steve McQueen” edition, has been one of the most recognisable chronographs. The square case, the vivid blue dial, the left-hand crown and the bi-compax layout are burned into our collective memory. Yet, while the Monaco series was used […]
Monochrome
Chopard marks the 30th anniversary of its first in-house movement produced in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture. A pivotal moment for Chopard, the calibre 1.96 was released in 1996 and is still regarded as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor movements today. The first watch to feature the calibre was the L.U.C 1860, presented in a […]
Monochrome
Any watch bearing “Hybris” in its name represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanics and craftsmanship. Representing the third pillar of the elite Hybris family, the new Inventiva series is dedicated to single, groundbreaking complications. The first in line is the extraordinary Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon à Stratosphère Calibre 178. Building on two decades of multi-axis […]
Time+Tide
For its 100-year anniversary, Tudor debuts an entirely new model – the Tudor Monarch – with an integrated design and more decorated calibre.The post The new Tudor Monarch brings a whole new facet to the brand’s range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Last year was a watershed moment for Grand Seiko with its announcement of the world’s “most accurate mainspring-driven movement”. Crafted in the Shinshu Watch Studio, the brand’s groundbreaking Calibre 9RB2 – with an annual deviation of only ±20 seconds – debuted in Evolution 9 cases. True to Japanese reverence for nature and Grand Seiko’s talent […]
Hodinkee
The reintroduction of the Calibre 135 headlines a focused set of new releases from the Le Locle-based manufacture.
Monochrome
While the Monaco has long been a platform for bold design, this new 2026 TAG Heuer release is first and foremost a mechanical statement. With the Monaco Evergraph, TAG Heuer is not just updating an icon but rebuilding the chronograph, in classic Techniques d’Avant-Garde style… The new calibre TH80-00 abandons common chronograph design in favour […]
SJX Watches
Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...
SJX Watches
Sure to be among the most talked-about releases of Watches & Wonders, TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Monaco Evergraph. The openworked Monaco marks the debut of the calibre TH-80, one of the most advanced chronograph movements on the market. The Evergraph’s movement is notable for several reasons, but the most surprising is the use of an innovative compliant structure to simplify the chronograph mechanisms. Initial thoughts Beginning with the relaunch of the TH-Carbonspring last year, TAG Heuer has been on something of a road to redemption. Not long ago it seemed like the brand’s brightest days might be behind it, but the Evergraph provides further evidence that TAG Heuer has been retooling to become a new leader in technical innovation. The famous Breitling-Heuer-Buren Calibre 11 - one of the first automatic chronograph movements to hit the market back in 1969 - debuted in a Monaco, and so it’s fitting that the new TH-80 movement is first glimpsed through the transparent dial of the Monaco Evergraph. In more ways than one, the Evergraph pays proper hommage to original Heuer Monaco while remaining decidedly future-oriented. It is also great to see the TH-Carbonspring literally front and centre on the dial side, proof that TAG Heuer is finally delivering on the promise of carbon hairspring industrialisation. Even before digressing into the distinctive mechanics of the new cal. TH80-00, any chronograph aficionado will greatly appreciate the particular crown and...
Monochrome
Founded in 1973 in Morteau, French brand Pequignet’s watchmaking history takes an interesting turn in the 2000s with the creation of an integrated manufacture and the release of the Calibre Royal, the brand’s first in-house movement, in 2011. Following a period of fluctuating fortunes, Pequignet was acquired by Enowe in 2021 and hasn’t looked back since. […]
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