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Results for Caliber 9S85

811 articles · 141 videos found · page 23 of 32

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel Hodinkee
3 days ago

Introducing: The Biver 'AB' - A New Manually-Wound Release In Steel

What We Know A few weeks ago I got an unexpected invite from Pierre Biver to see the brand's newest watch. Despite any ideas I might have had in my mind, Biver's new watch—just called the "AB"—was not what I expected. Instead of a new, complicated, potentially larger piece, the AB is a response to customer demand, says Biver (the person, not the brand, but kind of the person and the brand in one). After their Automatique was a runaway success in its various forms over the past two years, they resisted the urge to put the proprietary movement in a stainless steel case (as highly requested). Instead, today, they're launching a manually-wound, proprietary new movement with over 100 hours of power reserve, in a smaller steel case and moving the brand forward. The watch measures 38mm by 9.8mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. The case maintains the general hallmarks of Biver's cases, with brushed and polished geometric angular lugs—reminiscent of a Patek 3448 or 3450—but with tweaks to the bezel to change how it looks on the wrist. The dial is a multi-level gold dial, with a grained central texture, 2N gold metallicized indices, chamfered levels, gold hands with hand-finished facets, and an onyx stone-dial ring for the hour and minute track. The watch also comes with Biver's striking, angular bracelet, which now comes with a patented micro-adjust activated by two push buttons. Photo by Mark Kauzlarich. The caliber JCB-004 is developed in collaboration with Le Cercle des Hor...

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces 4 days ago

Christopher Ward Introduces the C1 Loco Classic

Today, Christopher Ward officially introduces what some might call one of the worst kept secrets in indie watchmaking. We all knew that a dressy version of the brand’s Loco was coming – their British Watchmakers’ Day limited edition kind of gave it away. No one really thought that would be a one off, right? The all new C1 Loco Classic arrives as a fully formed product line within the brand’s Atelier lineup, and offers collectors who might have bristled at the aggressively sporty, angular C12 Loco a more refined option built on the same caliber with the same dramatic architecture.  The C1 Loco Classic is built on a 41mm 904L stainless steel “Light-catcher” case with a mix of high polished surfaces and contrasting brushed elements. The case features a pronounced groove running through the middle section, following through to the lugs, and has a curvy, rounded appearance. It’s a thick case, measuring a total of 14.1mm tall, but over 5mm of that height belongs to the domed crystal – Christopher Ward says the case itself is 8.55mm thick. Despite its overall height, Christopher Ward has gone to great lengths to create a softer and more organic shape for the Loco Classic, and while it might not work on every wrist, visually it certainly meets the brief of a more refined Loco.  As an owner of a C12 Loco, I can say that while I enjoy the case quite a bit, the real draw of the watch is the movement and the dial, and the way those two aspects of the piece are integr...

Oris Ushers in Autumn with a New Big Crown Pointer Date Made in Collaboration with Cervo Volante Worn & Wound
Oris Ushers Oct 6, 2026

Oris Ushers in Autumn with a New Big Crown Pointer Date Made in Collaboration with Cervo Volante

Are you sleeping with your windows open? Pulling out your favorite sweater from the back of the closet? Finding yourself craving a little pumpkin spice on your commute to work? All the signs are pointing toward only one conclusion: it’s officially Fall. It seems I’m not the only one excited for what is indisputably the best season. Oris’ latest release, the new burgundy-colored Oris x Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date, is in a sense an homage to the autumnal landscape around the brand’s home in Hölstein. The Oris factory is located in Switzerland’s Waldenburg Valley, where the surrounding forests are beginning to show their autumnal colors. The latest Big Crown reflects the changing foliage with a burgundy dial and brown deer leather strap. As the name suggests, the watch is based on the Big Crown Pointer Date, keeping its Arabic numerals, fluted bezel and central pointer-date hand. Super-LumiNova is applied to the numerals, indices and hands. The brown strap comes from longtime Oris collaborator Cervo Volante and is made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Each watch also comes with a matching leather travel pouch. The stainless steel case measures 40mm and is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the interior. Around back is a screwed stainless steel caseback with a mineral-glass display window, so you can view the automatic Oris Caliber 754-1 movement. The new burgundy Oris x Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date is ava...

Introducing: Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical Hodinkee
Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical

What We Know This week, Hamilton dropped the latest in their series of vintage-inspired watches. But where most brands lean hard on their mid-century offerings for their re-editions, here Hamilton takes a different tack, reaching deep into their archive to resurrect watches so old, they'd be better described as antique rather than vintage. So, it is with the Hamilton American Classic Cushion, which breathes new life into a century-old design. And before you ask, these aren't quartz fashion watches dressed up in vintage clothing; these are tried-and-true hand-wound mechanical watches. The new collection — and it really is a collection, with six models split across two case sizes — is directly inspired by cushion-case watches made by Hamilton in the 1920s. If they seem eerily familiar for watches designed 100 years ago, it may be because Cillian Murphy wore an antique Hamilton cushion watch in Oppenheimer. Here, those watches have been quite respectfully updated for 2026, and though absolute fidelity was not the goal here, these remain easily among the most faithful-feeling reissues we've seen from Hamilton recently. As I mentioned earlier, a big part of the appeal of these watches comes down to the choice to use a hand-winding mechanical movement in these watches, rather than the quartz movements so often used in these small-size vintage reissues. Here, Hamilton is using the H-42, a manual-wind caliber that is, in essence, Hamilton's branded version of the ETA 7001. It'...

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

Venezianico Introduces the New Redentore Levius Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Sep 25, 2026

Venezianico Introduces the New Redentore Levius

Colin Chapman, founder of the legendary automotive marquee, Lotus, once stated that “simplify, then add lightness” was his philosophy. It’s an oft-celebrated, frequently misquoted, and pervasively genius idea: removing all but the essentials to create something that transcends its own design. Italian watchmaker Venezianico has taken that mantra in stride with their new Redentore Levius, promising a timepiece that strips all but the essentials away, and is more refined because of it.  The Redentore Levius’ quest for lightness begins with the 38mm Grade 5 titanium case, which comes in a lithe 8.9mm in thickness and just 48 grams in weight, including both the case, internals, and strap. It’s a stupendous line of stats, and the brushed and polished dual finish of the case brings the level of elegance and refinement expected of a dress watch, without taking up valuable visual space. Inside, a hand-wound V5000 caliber movement manufactured by OISA and designed by Fausto Berizzi and Andrea Menegazzo allows for the thin-and-light profile of the watch, while remaining visible through an exhibition caseback.  The real showstopper of the Redentore Levius, though, is the dark blue dial. In order to fully encapsulate the theme, a guilloche motif  is used to evoke the essence of wind. Named “Zefiro” after Zephyrus, the Greek god of the West Wind, the motif was designed in-house at Venezianico specifically for the Levius. Like its namesake, it aims to capture the tender ...

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering Hodinkee
Panerai Honors Sep 22, 2026

Introducing: Panerai Honors The Pre-Vendome Luminor With A Smaller 42mm Offering

What We Know Don't call it a comeback—they've been here for years, but if today's release is any indication, Panerai seems on the verge of "having a moment," or whatever you'd call it in a hyper-masculine, intensely Italian way. The feedback for a while, even from people who love the brand, is that the brand (which was on the forefront or even progenitor of the large watch trend that dominated the early 2000s) hadn't adapted as well or as quickly as big watch brands. Size was one sticking point; price another. Privately, I have heard multiple people say that if Panerai could fight it out closer to Tudor pricing, they'd be printing money at a new clip. Today, the brand is showing that it's listening, with three new (and newly smaller) 42mm Luminors at an attractive price. Let's go back to 1993, to the pre-Vendome days of Panerai. Brand representatives stood aboard the Italian destroyer Durand de la Penne (D560) to revive the Luminor's design language—the big case, bold numerals, and unusual crown lock—and bring it to a civilian audience. The original references, Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A, became collectible icons, and the latter was revived last year with the PAM05218, in a 44mm case with a new automatic movement. If you looked closely at that caliber—the P.980 with hours, minutes, and hacking seconds—you'd see it was small enough to fit in an even smaller case. Yes, it's similar in architecture to a few in-group IWC and B...