Deployant
New: Akrivia RRCC II
Akrivia releases the successor to the hit Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain - now with a seconde morte movement. Introducing the RRCC II.
Results for Dead Seconds (Seconde Morte)
1,041 articles · 90 videos found · page 23 of 38
Deployant
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386
Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...
SJX Watches
H. Moser and Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye
After introducing the amusingly quirky Endeavour Centre Seconds X Seconde/Seconde/ last week, H. Moser and Cie. continues with its minimalist approach to design in a more serious-minded manner with the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye. Available in two variants each with equally stunning natural stone dials – blue Falcon’s Eye and reddish-brown Ox’s Eye – the new tourbillon features rich colours and textures that are a departure from Moser’s conventional aesthetic. Both dials are variants of Tiger’s Eye, the quartz mineral best known as golden brown but also found in other colours. Being a natural material with a prominent grain, each dial, and consequently each watch, is technically unique. The Ox’s Eye variant, with a red dial and red gold case. Initial thoughts The new tourbillon is based on an existing reference, which is already a mesmerising watch. However, for those seeking something different from the usual fume dials that’s still quintessentially Moser, the Tiger’s Eye certainly fits the bill. Mineral stone dials were the in-thing in the 1970s and 1980s – often found in with ultra-thin watches on mesh bracelets – and seem to be enjoying a resurgence today. But few have implemented semiprecious stones as beautifully as Moser has here, with its signature minimalist look providing the perfect canvas for the unique natural material. I find both variants equally attractive. The Falcon’s Eye is more contemporary in its blue and white g...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597
Endowed with an unmistakable aesthetic, the Breguet Tradition is based on the souscription calibre made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796. Arguably the pioneer with the open-dial design that exposes the movement, the Tradition’s construction allows for creativity even with basic complications, like a retrograde seconds for instance. The new Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 continues with the overarching theme of the line. Based on the Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, the 7597 does away with the seconds display and instead installed an oversized retrograde date complication. Initial thoughts I find the Tradition aesthetic unique and charming, thanks to the characteristic, exposed movement construction that can seem haphazardly arranged at times. Despite the angular and geometric shapes of the bridges, most of them are trapezoidal in shape with few parallel edges, bestowing a more organic appearance to the highly mechanical appearance. While a conventional date window is mundane, the retrograde date elevates the complication both visually and mechanically. Retrograde displays are often encountered in Breguet watches – something that started with A.-L. Breguet himself – and are typically done well, both stylistically and technically. The Tradition 7597 is, in short, an attractively designed watch that sticks to Breguet’s tradition strengths in design and mechanics, while offering a useful complication executed in an elegant manner. Tradition restyled The 759...
Deployant
Review: Hands-on with the new Petermann Bedat 1967 Chapter 1
We go hands on and detailed on the newly released Petermann Bedat 1967 Chapter 1 Seconde Morte watch, by a dynamic and young independent watchmakers..
Revolution
SIHH 2018: The Greubel Forsey Différentiel d’Égalité & GMT Earth
Greubel Forsey finally puts their 5th Invention into a timepiece for SIHH 2018: The Différentiel d’Égalité, their first watch with dead beat seconds.
Revolution
Three Confessions & An Absolution
Confession #1: I have a weakness for watches with the dead seconds complication. I said as much last year when I told someone I could spend the rest of my life staring at this particular mechanism, and then he went and quoted me on the internet. Thanks a lot, bro. Confession #2: I just spent […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV
Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District
Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Brings Refinement to the Collection
Maurice Lacroix introduced the 1975 collection last year to mark its 50th anniversary. Since then, the line has expanded to include GMT and day-date models, as well as the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, which was released earlier this year. Now, the Swiss brand welcomes the new 1975 Legacy with a machine-guilloché petite seconde display that sits […]
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - Toyota Makes It Six At Le Mans, Beating BMW and Cadillac To The Line
Racing for 24 hours straight, only to cross the finish line a handful of seconds ahead of second place, with third place closing in fast as well. That’s pretty much what happened at the final stages of the 2026 running of the Le Mans 24 Hours. After three straight wins for Ferrari with the 499P, […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Liberty II Limited Editions (Live Pics)
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces two new takes on its distinctive tonneau-shaped A384 chronograph, a modern revival of the model from the late sixties. The new Chronomaster Revival Liberty II is a sequel to the Chronomaster Revival Liberty from 2020, which paired a distinctive red and white striped chronograph seconds hand with a blue dial and white subdials. For the Revival Liberty II, two models are introduced: a stainless steel variant in a run of 250 pieces, and a forged carbon edition in 25 pieces. The theming, as you might guess from the name, focuses on the 250th anniversary of the United States in these US-exclusive editions. Both editions feature that red and white striped chronograph seconds hand (13 stripes for the original 13 colonies). These follow-ups to the original take the blue and white scheme and invert it, with this new dial featuring a white lacquered base with contrasting blue subdials and tachymeter. "250" on the tachymeter scale is highlighted in red in light of the anniversary. The forged carbon edition offers a much more contemporary look, with swirls of silver and black in the ultralight case, pushers, and crown, and paired with a blue textile-embossed rubber strap. The steel version comes with two strap options—a ladder bracelet in stainless steel, as well as a rubber strap for a bit of extra versatility. The case dimensions remain identical to all other A384 revival editions, with a 37mm diameter and 12.6mm thickness. The movement inside...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’
Watch-spotting accounts on Instagram were rewarded during the Met Gala broadcast with a sneak peak at two new Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso models worn by actors Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers. Unveiled officially today, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Or Deco Cocktail brings tasteful gemsetting to the Reverso. Initial thoughts Watch spotting has emerged as a major part of social media culture — a fact that has not escaped brands’ attention. Omega was early to the game, teasing the white-dialled Speedmaster on the wrist of Daniel Craig months before launch, and the brand equipped Delroy Lindo with the new Constellation Observatory at the Academy Awards two weeks before its official unveiling. Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers attend the 2026 Met Gala. Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images Now its JLC’s turn — today the brand is launching three gem-set Reversos first seen during the Met Gala earlier this month. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the new editions are elegant on the wrist thanks to their relatively compact footprint — just 45.6 mm tall — and supple gold Milanese bracelets. Each watch is distinguished by bands of baguette-cut stones above and below the dial — replacing the typical Art Deco-style horizontal grooves — but only on the front. Flip the watch over, and it looks like any other Reverso with a solid case back. A cynic might view this as a ploy to keep costs down — to some extent that’s true — but alternatively it gives ...
Hodinkee
Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties
Thierry Stern sat down with Ben Clymer at Watches & Wonders 2026 to walk through Patek Philippe's novelties, and his passion for the product comes through immediately. Nowhere is that more evident than with the Nautilus's 50th anniversary pieces. Compared to the 40th, this is an exercise in restraint. "My idea is to do the counter-steps," Stern said. The three limited-edition anniversary Nautiluses are stripped to hours and minutes only—no date, no seconds—perhaps the most compelling of which is a 38mm platinum case recalling the medium-size Nautilus models of the 1980s, powered by the 2.53mm Calibre 240, its micro-rotor engraved with "50 1976–2026". The wildcard—a personal highlight for Ben—was something genuinely unexpected: Patek's first-ever Nautilus desk clock, the ref. 958G, limited to just 100 pieces. Its white gold case translates the porthole-inspired Nautilus design to 50.65mm, with a hinged caseback that doubles as a stand. Technically a pocket watch, yet perhaps it's better suited to the table. Mr. Stern gives us a peek behind the curtain on how it came to be—and the story behind it is one you'll definitely want to hear. Thierry also walked Ben through the 5840P—the Cubitus's first grand complication, a skeletonized perpetual calendar he'd conceived early in the collection's development but deliberately held back, wanting the design language to land before the mechanics got complicated. The vintage Patek market is certainly booming, with the ref. ...
Teddy Baldassarre
12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury
As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now. [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - Three-in-a-Row For Porsche, As The Penske Factory Team Wins The Rolex 24 At Daytona 2026
It seems like a trend that endurance races are won with only seconds between the podium finishers. We’ve seen it in this year’s Dakar, where Luciano Benavides won the Bikes class with just two seconds difference over second-place man Ricky Brabec. We’ve seen it in last year’s Rolex 24 at Daytona, where the entire podium […]
Fratello
Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time
I had to drive from Amsterdam to Brussels in 2015 to see the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time with deadbeat seconds in the metal. It was worth it. Both the three-handed Geophysic True Second and Universal Time impressed me a lot, especially the travel watch with a world-map dial and a practical complication. Upon learning […] Visit Why I Bought The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring²
Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Vintage Finds from Seiko, Omega, and More!
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko 6138-0049 Starting off this week with a bang, or rather a bull…head! This vintage Seiko 6138-0049 Bullhead chronograph is a real beauty. The massive steel case is excellent, unpolished with sharp edges and the original polished/brushed finish. The brown dial looks to be in superb condition, with no black funk on the lume or hands. The tachymeter bezel is equally superb. The watch comes on the correct and original fishbone steel bezel, which is always a plus. Seems like this is coming from the original owner, as it includes the original sales receipt. Sadly, no box or papers. However, the watch runs and functions as per the seller. Great opportunity for a really well preserved example of an awesome vintage Seiko chronograph. View auction here Vintage Aquadive Here’s a nice vintage Aquadive diver from probably the 1970s. The 36.5mm case is chrome plated with a steel back, and the plating is in really solid shape. The edges are nice and crisp as well. The dial is a really cool one, black and gray bullseye style with white painted hour markers and lume filled white baton hands. The orange seconds hand has a classic lume filled lollipop tip for easy reading. The aluminum elapsed ...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Hamilton, Grand Seiko, Omega, and More!
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton 14k Gold Watch First up this week is a classic and stylish vintage 1971 Hamilton dress watch in 14k yellow gold. The 33.5mm solid gold case is unpolished, with crisp edges. The caseback is engraved with a 25 year service award inscription from Eaton. The dial is clean and simple, with a nice sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The original crown is signed with the Hamilton logo. The watch comes with the original Hamilton signed lizard strap, and it all comes in the original box with papers! The case is a front loading type, so no movement pictures, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage 1950s Benrus Here we have another small dress watch, but this one is gold filled and a little more ‘sporty’. This vintage Benrus 3 Star has a cool dial, with alternating Arabic numerals and thin arrows for hour markers, coupled with lume filled hands. The 33mm yellow gold filled case looks sharp, and has a steel screw in back. There is no movement picture, but the seller states the watch runs well. Nice little every day type of watch from an under-rated brand that should fit into any watch budget. View auction here Omega Constellation Next up is a whopp...
SJX Watches
Roger W. Smith Debuts the Series 6
After several years with no additions to its line up, Roger W. Smith recently revealed the Series 6. Essentially a variation of the Series 4 triple calendar, the Series 6 is a time and date – hours, minutes, and seconds, plus the brand’s own “travelling date” that takes the form of a peripheral pointer under the main dial. Much of the watch is familiar, including the architecture of the movement and finishing, but the Series 6 does enjoy several upgrades over earlier watches, including the latest version of the single wheel co-axial escapement. Initial thoughts The Series 6 is quintessential Roger W. Smith in look, feel, and execution (and price). The aesthetic is familiar and certainly well loved, while the quality of execution is high. While its watches may not be hand “made,” they are certainly hand finished and the Series 6 illustrates that with its engine-turned dial, hand-made hands, and hand-engraved movement. The under-dial mechanism for the date and keyless works are especially beautiful, despite being concealed. I imagine this approach to the hidden parts is not merely a watchmaker’s vanity; I expect an open-dial version to come along in due time – if it has not already been ordered by a client. The Series 6 also demonstrates the advances made by the brand in terms of manufacturing. Equipped with modern equipment like CNC mills, Roger W. Smith watches today are far, far, far more refined than its earliest creations. Like the brand’s other watche...
SJX Watches
The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus
While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...
Monochrome
Interview - At The Heart Of The Tour de France With Sylvain Dolla, CEO of Tissot
Widely regarded as the pinnacle of road cycling, the Tour de France demands everything from its riders. In 2025, the 112? edition covered approximately 3,338.8?km over 21 stages. Every second matters. Traditionally, fans remember the legendary 1989 showdown where Greg?LeMond edged Laurent?Fignon by just 8?seconds, the narrowest margin ever, with precision timing the heartbeat of […]
Worn & Wound
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater Returns with an Appetite and a Tourbillon
Many watches are designed to perform specific tasks or serve specific purposes beyond telling the time. Divers have bold markers and ratcheting bezels, pilot watches are oversized and might include a second time zone, track watches feature chronographs or tachymeters, etc, and then, there’s the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eaters. Featuring a giant eyeball for the hour hand, a spinning set of teeth for the seconds, and a double-sided arm that’s giving a one-finger salute, they don’t seek to fulfill a practical purpose. Instead, I’d classify them as “memento absurdum,” which is to say, objects that remind you of the absurdity, whether in life or watch collecting. If you’re thinking, “Now, wait a second, didn’t they just come out with a new Time Eater like a few days ago?” you’d be correct. A 42mm model with a navy blue chapter ring and a darker silver than previous versions, it was a handsome, if iterative, addition. But the Time-Eater is back once again, this time with a substantial change: it now has a tourbillon. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen Louis Erard use a tourbillon movement, specifically the “affordable for a tourbillon” BCP T02 by Olivier Mory, which appeared on a few of their Alain Silberstein collabs. The Time-Eater Tourbillon (TET from here out) is basically a reedition of one of the first two Time-Eaters, which was initially introduced in either a 39mm case with a purple chapter ring, or a 42mm case with a green ch...
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication is dazzlingly brilliant
Four complications with two patented solutions help deliver a smooth and efficient split-seconds chronograph.The post The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication is dazzlingly brilliant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Darker De Bethune Kind of Two GMT x Swizz Beatz
De Bethune teams up for the third time with American rapper and record producer Kasseem Daoud Dean, aka Swizz Beatz. The model selected for the artistic collaboration is the DB Kind of Two GMT, an impressive convertible watch with two dials for the dual time display and jumping seconds. One of the most intuitive ways […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Cubitus
The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...
SJX Watches
The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase
Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...
SJX Watches
Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre
Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire
Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...