Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: La Joux-Perret CEO Jean-Claude Eggen
The head of the Swiss movement maker explains the economics of producing the engines that drive timepieces.
Results for Naoya Hida
3,327 articles · 158 videos found · page 23 of 117
Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The 2026 Minerva Collection, now a Stand-Alone Brand, Unveiling the new Crownless
Since its acquisition by the Richemont Group in 2006, historic and highly revered brand Minerva has lived under the control of Montblanc, its watches bearing double-signed dials. 20 years later, under the direction of Laurent Lecamp, Global Managing Director for both Montblanc and Minerva, the venerable hidden gem of haute horology emancipates again and now becomes […]
SJX Watches
Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement
In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...
Monochrome
Introducing – Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997
Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood Watch - High-End Watch Evolution At Its Finest
That’s heavy sh*t, man. Two years ago, we had the chance to go hands-on with the Fleming Series 1 Launch Edition Tantalum. In that alloy, which is roughly twice as heavy as steel, the watch made a lasting impression. It was “heavy” in hippie-speak because of its refined case shape, intricate dial details, and remarkable […] Visit Hands-On With The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Redwood Watch - High-End Watch Evolution At Its Finest to read the full article.
Video
Cheers to us, we just hit 1m views Rusty! Our 5 fave watches from Russell Crowe's divorce auction
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons
“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...
Time+Tide
Hands-on with Zenith’s latest 2026 watches: Defy Skyline, Chronograph, Revival, & Skyline 36
Zenith had a pretty expansive new array of Defy creations introduced at LVMH Watch Week – which we’ll take a closer look at and recap today.The post Hands-on with Zenith’s latest 2026 watches: Defy Skyline, Chronograph, Revival, & Skyline 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT
10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea to create watches… But not like every other young indie watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world’s first 3D-printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had a design of its own, inspired by Michiel’s previous career. The specially-commissioned watch […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another epic watch battle in our Sunday Morning Showdown series. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head with two popular dive watches. With the recent introduction of the Seiko Marinemaster HBF001, we want to see whether it can take on the popular Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome.” Mike […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001 to read the full article.
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Seiko SARX055 - 5 things I HATE & 5 things I LOVE (Baby Grand Seiko Snowflake review)
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Dennison ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial
Emmanuel Gueit has done it again. His designs for Dennison are a hit, and now there’s a new catchy, slightly moody “tune” that will be on your mind once you’ve been exposed to it. Dennison introduces the ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial, a nuanced and refined evolution of the brand’s Dual Time collection. The dials […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Dennison ALD Dual Time “Shades” Dial to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas
Just one week after our second Windup Watch Fair in Dallas, I returned to the Lone Star State for my first-ever BLADE Show Texas. BLADE Show Texas marks the start of the Blade Show trilogy, held annually in Fort Worth, Texas, before the show travels to Atlanta in June, and ends the season with BLADE Show West in Salt Lake City in October. In typical fashion, I hit the ground running after landing in Dallas, only pausing briefly to drop my luggage off at the hotel before heading to the show venue. After picking up my pass, I spent a bit of time catching up with Rikki and Sam (better known as Capt.Rikki and Raven_the_pirate on Instagram). They were kind enough to let me know about a community barbecue happening later that night, which I couldn’t pass up. While not officially part of the show, these after-hours events are how I’ve managed to meet so many stellar people in this community. After a hearty helping of Texas Barbeque and some good times, we called it an early night, excited for the show to officially start the next day. Heading into the venue for day one, I was absolutely blown away by just how many people had already lined up, even though the show wouldn’t open for a few more hours. I know there’s always some die hard fans who will do so, but seeing several hundred people already in line at 8am was a bit unexpected for this show. I happened to overhear someone mention that they had been in line since 3 AM on Thursday, vying for a few very specific and rare...
SJX Watches
Omega Reinvents the Constellation
Omega is reviving one of its classics with the Constellation Observatory, a tribute to the manufacture’s illustrious past. The new Constellation collection returns to the “pie pan” dial that Omega devotees have championed for years, and represents a strong bid from the Bienne-based manufacture to reassert itself in the market for high-end dress watches. The 21st century Constellation “Pie Pan” adopts many aesthetic cues of the vintage original, made during Omega’s heyday in the mid-20th century, but is resolutely a modern-day Omega wristwatch in quality and technology. From solid gold dials to proprietary alloys to a latest-generation movement, the Constellation Observatory has it all. The new Omega Constellation Observatory collection. Initial thoughts Omega’s recent efforts in dress-watch chronometers have been less cohesive and arguably less successful than the competition. The Constellation Manhattan with its integrated bracelet design differs from what most expect from a dress watch, while the De Ville line is handsome enough, but lacking the distinctiveness that serious dress watch collectors expect. In contrast, the Constellation Observatory is a serious effort that captures much of the magic of one of Omega’s most beloved historical designs, namely the Constellations of the 1950s and 1960s. The look is not too dissimilar from last year’s Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina, limited edition that met with commercial and critical success. With the Obser...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Updated Its Best-Selling Chronograph - Speedtimer SSC961, SSC963
Since the release of the SSC813 Speedtimer, it has been one of Seiko’s best-selling watches. So when we got word at the end of last year that it was being discontinued, it had us, along with other collectors, scratching our heads. So why would Seiko cut one of its star players without warning? Well, it turns out that
Monochrome
First Look – The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia in Pink and Purple Mother-of-Pearl
The original Jui came out last year as a collaboration between Hong Kong-based Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) and microbrand Selten, and it did not stay under the radar for long. It was one of those watches that quietly hit the sweet spot, with a detailed dial and a strong concept at a price that felt […]
Video
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black Ceramic - Why It Is So Hot?
Fratello
Introducing: The Dominique Renaud Pulse60 - A Slow-Swinging 1Hz Watch With A Human Heartbeat
The Dominique Renaud Pulse 60 has the same rhythm as a normal resting human heart, which is around 60 beats per minute. The slow-beating 1Hz watch also has deluxe-industrial looks created with Haute Horlogerie methods. The Pulse60, which comes in a Grade 5 titanium or pink gold and Grade 5 titanium 40mm case, is a […] Visit Introducing: The Dominique Renaud Pulse60 - A Slow-Swinging 1Hz Watch With A Human Heartbeat to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches a Pair of Updated Marinemasters with their Higher End 8L45 Movement
A common critique leveled at Seiko over these last few years is that they’ve abandoned the affordable enthusiast dive watch market and have been creeping toward a higher priced product. Honestly, it’s fair. Those of us of a certain age can fondly remember the days when an SKX diver could be had for a few hundred bucks, and it basically stood alone in the Venn diagram of pedigree, dive watch bona fides, enthusiast credibility, and affordability. The fact is, there’s a lot of competition for affordable divers these days, much of it driven by the popularity of a handful of key Seiko references. So it’s no wonder that they’ve sought to expand their footprint elsewhere and make a higher end, more expensive product. What often gets lost in these conversations is that the higher priced Seiko divers are actually very good dive watches that still cover much of that hypothetical Venn diagram, perhaps leaning a little further away from affordability. Seiko recently announced a handful of new references and while many of us hoped a truly affordable SKX alternative might be in the mix, they’ve once again debuted a new diver at a higher rung of their pricing ladder. The highlight for collectors and serious Seiko fans will likely be the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch (the official Seiko naming conventions are always a bit cumbersome). Yes, this is yet another mostly historically accurate take on the first ever diver rated to 300 meters of water r...
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology
Blancpain, founded in the Swiss village of Villeret in 1735, has been making timepieces for almost 300 years, but perhaps its most impactful contribution to wristwatch history was relatively recent - and began its heralded life as a military tool rather than a luxury item. In 1953, Blancpain was headed by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. Here we will take a look at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, a more everyday take on the iconic diver. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: A Historic Divers’ Watch"] The watch, called the Fifty Fathoms, had a 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - and it was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the first watch to include a lockable bezel with dive-time scale that rotated in only one direction. This practical and potentially life-saving innovation prevented a diver from acciden...
SJX Watches
Dominique Renaud’s Pulse60 is Slow and Steady
One of the most influential watchmakers of the post-quartz era has re-emerged with a groundbreaking slow-beat oscillator that cleverly avoids the amplitude constraints typical of such constructions. The Pulse60 is the latest project from Dominique Renaud’s eponymous workshop Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud (HHDR), and the first watch to bear his full name in a decade. The Pulse60 runs at just 7,200 times per hour - a frequency of just 1 Hz – a quarter the rate of a conventional movement. Ordinarily, such a slow beat would leave the movement susceptible to external forces, but here it has been combined with a proprietary escapement that overcomes the challenge. While the technical ingenuity is expected given Mr Renaud’s pedigree, the relatively accessible price of under CHF50,000 is unexpected, especially given the state of the market today. Initial thoughts It’s been a decade since Dominique Renaud came out of retirement, but his most public contributions since then have come under the Renaud Tixier banner. Latecomers to independent watchmaking may be less familiar with Mr Renaud’s work, but he played an important role in establishing the contemporary high-end watchmaking landscape. The Pulse60 is the first watch to carry the Dominique Renaud name since the exotic and expensive DR01 Twelve First, which was not made in significant numbers. But unlike its short-lived predecessor, which featured a low-amplitude, high-frequency escapement of Mr Renaud’s own des...
Time+Tide
What are they saying? Early reactions to the Time+Tide × Studio Underd0g Pizza Party 2.0 – the Burnt Pepper0ni and Classic Cheese
The Studio Underd0g x Time+Tide Burnt Pepper0ni & Classic Cheese have been flying out of the Pizzeria, but what has everyone had to say?The post What are they saying? Early reactions to the Time+Tide × Studio Underd0g Pizza Party 2.0 – the Burnt Pepper0ni and Classic Cheese appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
HOT 2020 Watch Review: Grand Seiko, Nomos, Moser, Montblanc
Teddy Baldassarre
Determining the Best Omega Watch - Subscriber Tournament
As voted by subscribers, in this video we go head-to-head in Omega's deep catalog to find the best Omega watch with a 32-watch tournament chosen & voted for by our audience members.
Fratello
Channeling My Inner Don Draper With The Distinctly Mid-Century Tissot Visodate
I know, I know; Don Draper wore Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Rolex in the vibey hit series Mad Men. Still, this new Tissot Visodate gives me a lot of that pizzazz on a much more wallet-friendly budget. I got a chance to go hands-on with this latest reiteration of Tissot’s Visodate lineup. Here’s how we fared. […] Visit Channeling My Inner Don Draper With The Distinctly Mid-Century Tissot Visodate to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Four Times I Was Wrong About Watch Collecting
Try to think of an objective fact about watches. If you’re anything like me, it’s a task that sounds simple at first, but quickly turns into a surprisingly difficult thought experiment. After some head scratching, my attempt at this exercise ended with a relatively short list, made up mostly of historical facts and a small number of all-encompassing physical descriptions: Watches were invented in the 16th century. They tell time, generally, and are powered by some sort of movement- quartz, mechanical, electric, tuning fork, or otherwise. They are round, or not. And have three hands, or more… and sometimes none at all. As it turns out, objective facts about watches are in short supply, which by default makes mastering the subjective a primary element of watch collecting. Luckily for me and all the other self-proclaimed voices of authority spamming the forums alongside me, becoming an expert boils down to the ability to pick (usually meticulously researched) standpoints where the stakes are low and our personal beliefs are inherently never wrong. In the very first article I wrote for Worn & Wound back in 2023, I stated that forming opinions was one of my favorite things about the hobby. In the time since I picked the premise of individual stances as my first published words on this site, I’ve formed countless of them, and still find tremendous joy in doing so. Watches are round…or not Some of my early opinions (such as a logoed counterbalance on the second hand...
Fratello
Three Weeks With The Modern Certina DS-2
There’s something reassuring about a watch that knows exactly what it is. Not aspirational haute horlogerie, not a fashion-forward experiment, not a speculative limited edition chasing headlines - just a well-built, historically grounded, and thoughtfully executed mechanical watch. That is precisely what the modern Certina DS-2 represents. In its red-dial iteration, which is the version […] Visit Three Weeks With The Modern Certina DS-2 to read the full article.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time to sit down with a cup of coffee for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head with two gold Vacheron Constantin watches. Jorg’s pick is the yellow gold Historiques 222, which came out in 2024 and garnered much praise for reviving the brand’s 1977 classic. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding to read the full article.
Video