852 articles · 15 videos found · page 23 of 29
Monochrome
French watchmaking is enjoying a renaissance today marked by the revival of extinct names and new micro-brands braving the arena. However, none of them can boast Pequignet’s claim to fame as “one of the only French Manufactures of Haute Horlogerie.” Following a period of trials and tribulations, Pequignet is back in business with a refreshed […]
Revolution
Who wants a longer power reserve? C'mon down!
Hodinkee
Swatch is planning a collaboration with Audemars Piguet, expected to be one of the most significant and talked-about watch releases of the year. Swatch began teasing the tie-up last week with social media posts featuring the distinctive font associated with AP's iconic Royal Oak model and the words 'Royal' and 'Pop.' That led to hordes of speculation online that the brand was preparing a collaboration with AP. And then, over the weekend, the two marques confirmed that indeed they would be releasing the new product on May 16. Many Swatch boutiques, including its main store in Geneva, are displaying boxes or chests (presumably holding the watch models) promoting the new Royal Pop collab, in much the same way they did with the Omega and Blancpain collaborations ahead of the launches. An Audemars Piguet X Swatch chest in the window at a Swatch boutique in Geneva. So, what will the Audemars Piguet x Swatch watch be? Well, we simply don't know at this point, but there are plenty of clues suggesting what it could be. The 'Pop' model line from Swatch has been around for decades and has served as a fashion-forward way to reimagine timekeeping and watches. First introduced around 1986, the Swatch 'Pop' watches could be removed from their straps and 'popped' into various accessory holders. These ranged from pocket watch holders, chains, and lanyards to refrigerator magnets and even a RECCO-branded accessory holder/transmitter for avalanche safety. A current, Swatch 'Pop' pocke...
Monochrome
The Laureato is Girard-Perregaux’s answer to the integrated luxury sports watch. Born in 1975 as a chronometer-certified quartz sports watch, Girard-Perregaux revived the Laureato in 2016 as a limited edition to celebrate the brand’s 225th anniversary, and later as a collection in 2017. Produced three years after Gérald Genta’s landmark Royal Oak but a year […]
Monochrome
A category defined during the 1970s by a handful of models that all became proper icons of the industry – AP Royal Oak, PP Nautilus, VC 222, IWC Ingenieur, GP Laureato, to name a few – the luxury sports watch or integrated bracelet trend made a strong comeback about 10 years ago. Not only did […]
Hodinkee
Here's the thing. The 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection was going to sell no matter what caliber was used, what case material was chosen, or what format was given. This is just a reality of the strength of Patek Philippe in the world today, and how in-demand integrated bracelet watches are. And to be clear, the Nautilus, along with the Royal Oak, set the tone long ago and remains at the pinnacle of the category. Actually, one would say the Nautilus remains at the pinnacle of *watches* in general when it comes to simple demand. It's the one that the most powerful people I know lust after the most – and I'm not saying that's good or bad, but it really just is. And here's the thing: the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus was a bit of a let-down for me. Because the Nautilus really is *the watch* for so many of us, and indeed, I am a true fan and always have been, and indeed, always will be, no matter how many dinguses I see wearing them today. 3700G Circa 1980, 5711R Circa 2015, 5811G Circa 2024 – Yes, I like the Nautilus a lot. As many of you know, the very first Patek Philippe I ever purchased was a 3940G. The very second? A Nautilus reference 3700A (I paid $18,000 for it, in a group buy with Paul Boutros, who bought a 222 for even less 😵💫). Some years later, I bought a very rare 3700G (I sold it to a close friend and mentor when he sold his company because it was something he'd always dreamed of owning). In 2015, when Nautiluses were still sitting in cases,...
Fratello
Just as Stevie Wonder is the musician’s musician, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker. But what is meant by this? Well, for starters, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a prolific movement manufacturer that supplies other high-end brands. Famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin caliber 920 powered the big three ’70s sports watches - Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, AP’s Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin’s […] Visit Introducing: Three New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Complications to read the full article.
Monochrome
Every brand at one point dreamt of having an icon on their hands. A cornerstone model that stands the test of time, design trends, and, more importantly, captures the hearts of fans and collectors worldwide, indefinitely. Watches like the Lange 1, the Submariner, the Nautilus, the Speedmaster or the Royal Oak. For Nomos, even though […]
Teddy Baldassarre
If there’s anything you should know about me, it's that small watches are essentially my kryptonite. My affinity for the teeny and tiny isn’t abating anytime soon, and luckily, we’ve seen the watch industry, in recent years, begin to catch up to my own (and many others') desire for small watches. From Bulgari’s new tiny movement to the recent Minification of the Royal Oak, all signs point to watchmakers meeting the rising demand for small watches. But Longines was slightly ahead of the curve in serving up what the tiny watch enthusiast community had been asking for, delivering the deliciously bite-sized Mini DolceVita officially in 2023, and has expanded on this offering in the years following the launch. Obviously, I’ve long been bitten by the Mini DolceVita bug, and down below, I’ll be sharing what keeps me coming back to it beyond its petite frame. [toc-section heading="History and Context"] Longines early 20th-century design archive One thing that gets under my skin is when people automatically apply “Tank Dupe” to any and every watch with a rectangular case. Longines, like many other watchmakers, began making rectangular-shaped watches in the early 20th Century – like, in the 1910s, early. In the brand’s early archive, there are quite literally dozens of different rectangular watches along with other geometric shapes, reflecting the style and aesthetics of Art Deco. So, though the Cartier Tank is, inarguably, the most iconic rectangular case desi...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist. Initial thoughts It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent. The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate. Despite the criticism that’s been l...
Worn & Wound
I have what you might call a love/hate relationship with Audemars Piguet. They are, without a doubt, makers of some of the finest watches in the world. Objectively speaking, there’s a level of craft involved with the production of AP watches that is hard to match at the scale at which they operate. Every Royal Oak I’ve ever handled feels like a perfectly made thing without any compromises. I honestly can’t say the same about equivalent watches from other brands in the so-called Holy Trinity. And yet, there’s so much baggage with Audemars Piguet in our current watch culture. I wrote about it here, specifically as it relates to the Royal Oak and how it has become a signifier of wealth and status that has overshadowed watchmaking and watch culture. I find this flex culture to be a huge turn off, and the way AP seems to lean into it, by producing more and more varieties of Royal Oak, some with mini sculptures of Marvel characters on the dial, to be a signal that they’re a willing participant in the watering down of their brand. But then Audemars Piguet will go ahead and release something beautiful that is not a Royal Oak and I’m reminded that derisively referring to them as The Royal Oak Company (something I’ve done frequently over these last few years) is ultimately unfair. Earlier this week, as part of a larger drop that included several exotic Royal Oaks, a pocket watch, and more, AP launched what might be one of the riskier watches they’ve introduced in...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...
Hodinkee
The new openworked Caliber 7139 debuts in a Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, while the non-openworked Royal Oak gets an attractive new edition in blue ceramic.
Monochrome
With 3 of its 4 main collections based on the original Royal Oak design, it’s fair to say that Audemars Piguet is a bit conservative in some aspects. But, from time to time, and not without great boldness, the brand releases something unexpected and not octagonally designed. As the best example of what AP can […]
Fratello
At the beginning of every year, Audemars Piguet graces us with a series of novelties. Last year was a big one for Audemars Piguet, with the unveiling of some brilliant new releases to mark its 150th anniversary. Among them were the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Royal Oak Chronograph. These two watches introduced […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Luxury Sport watches are probably one of the most popular categories out there with no shortage of excellent options from the most mainstream to the most niche independent watch brands. While names like the Rolex Submariner and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are seen as the staple watches in this category to aspire to, we asked our editorial team here to share their personal picks in this admittedly crowded category. So without further ado, let's take a look at our favorite luxury sport watches. Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. The Glashütte Original SeaQ is a prime example of a watch that can actually fill both roles. While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Germany’s Glashütte Original can trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watch...
Monochrome
Once the domain of high-end brands, the integrated sports watch genre is on fire and the market is flooded with thousands of models, ranging from downright affordable ones, such as Tissot’s PRX, all the way up to AP’s Royal Oak, and everything in between. A somewhat unexpected move, the latest player to take the plunge […]
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Let’s orient ourselves in the watch world five decades ago. The year is 1975, and we are in the height of the quartz crisis. Just six years prior in 1969, the watchmaking landscape forever changed with Seiko’s introduction of the first quartz timepiece, which called into question the future of mechanical timekeeping as we knew it. The era also marked the advent of the luxury sport watch, beginning with Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet between 1970 and 1972. These two pivotal moments in horological history gave birth to an icon: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The first Laureato entered Girard-Perregaux’s catalog in 1975. The model was modestly sized by today’s standards and was even rather mid-sized for the era with a case measuring just 36mm (by comparison, the first Royal Oak began to set the tone for more oversized watches clocking in at 39mm, but was considered notably large and given the nickname “Jumbo”). The 1975 Laureato featured a two-tone construction, highlighting its mix of curves and geometric shapes. The design echoed Genta’s but with softer edges and a slightly more elevated look thanks to the addition of yellow gold elements combined with stainless steel. In line with the times, the model housed a quartz caliber, but not just any quartz caliber – it was COSC-certified. “The Laureato was more than just a new model for Girard-Perregaux’s catalog,” confirms Beatrice Morelli, Chief Customer Experience Officer. “It represente...
SJX Watches
On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Worn & Wound
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic first debuted at Baselworld 2017, and I remember every journalist I ran into, telling me to go check out the Bulgari booth. I met with Pascal Brandt (then marketing manager), and a genuine watch geek I had known for some time. He showed me Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, and it was a “Wow” moment. I felt like I was holding a future classic in my hands, comparable to someone holding the Royal Oak for the first time in Basel in 1972 (and yes, there is a Genta connection). I had a couple of initial thoughts when I first experienced the Octo – I knew Bulgari had already made two of the slimmest complication Octo Finissimo’s in 2015 and 2016, but I chalked that to a fashion brand making a high complication for their wealthiest clients. But this was different, Bulgari managed to pull off the slimmest automatic watch that is lightweight, yet durable, with a micro-rotor movement for about $12,000. The second thought was that this is something special and, for me, a must own piece. Before I get into the ownership aspect of the Octo, I will give a brief history on how Bulgari got elevated to a serious watchmaking brand. The story of Bulgari’s transformation from a luxury fashion brand to a high-end watchmaker began in the year 2000. The watch industry was struggling after the late 1990’s financial crisis. In July 2000, Bulgari paid 37.6 million Swiss francs to acquire Gerald Genta SA, Daniel Roth SA, as well as Manufacture de Ha...
Worn & Wound
The watch community woke up to a flurry of announcements related to Watches & Wonders 2026 this morning, which is (gulp) just about 6 months away. The news includes the addition of multiple brands, including one major and longstanding holdout, as well as others moving to higher profile locations in Palexpo. The big news is that Audemars Piguet, makers of the Royal Oak and a member of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of old school Swiss Maisons, will finally be exhibiting at Watches & Wonders. Audemars Piguet had previously been one of the main draws at SIHH, a predecessor of Watches & Wonders, also held at the Palexpo, so the brand is no stranger to the convention center’s cavernous halls. In a press release, CEO Ilaria Resta explains “Watches and Wonders is more than an exhibition – it is a space for meaningful exchange with our peers and a celebration of our shared heritage and craftsmanship. We look forward to welcoming visitors to Audemars Piguet’s world as we shape the future of watchmaking together.” Audemars Piguet is not the only brand being added to the Watches & Wonders roster. Ten additional brands have been announced as participants as of this morning. Joining AP at the show for the first time are Behrens, Bianchet, B.R.M Chronographes, Charles Girardier, Corum, Credor, Favre Leuba, l’Epée 1839, March LA.B and Sinn. This lineup is quite varied, with everything from elaborate mechanical clocks, to more accessible tool watches represented, and brands...
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is known for many things, and the perpetual calendar is certainly among them. From ultra-thin variants to recent Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar references, the complication has been a cornerstone of the brand’s horological reputation. Earlier this year, AP launched a new generation of calibers designed with ergonomics in mind inside 41mm Royal […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet to read the full article.
Monochrome
The worthy successor of the 222 model (which is still made by the brand as part of the Historiques Collection), the Overseas has been Vacheron Constantin‘s vision of the luxury sports watch, a model made to compete with the two other icons of the genre, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The current Overseas, which […]
Teddy Baldassarre
We never really know how – or when – it happens, but some watches manage to achieve an iconic status that gives them a certain immortality long after discontinuation. We know the types, from the Speedmaster to the Submariner to the Royal Oak. But not all icons are pricey and they’re certainly not all Swiss. Enter the Seiko SKX007, a watch without a nickname, whose reference number is as recognizable as any of the aforementioned icons I just listed. The SKX, as we call it shorthand, is the value king in all of horology because of its capability from top to bottom, literally. Today we are going to be examining the SKX007, a watch that Seiko has since moved on from and never truly replaced. We will look at it at face value (as well as current secondary market value), for the watch’s impact on collector culture, and for its staying power even in the face of no longer remaining in production. Seiko SKX007 History And Specs In order to properly contextualize the SKX007, we must go back in time to the 1970s, when Seiko made its first impactful dive watch. Notice how I say "impactful," as the lot of you ready yourselves to remind me not to discount the 62MAS. For the record, I am not – at least not entirely. The 62MAS has proven to be a classic for Seiko, but the diver that really put the brand on the map in terms of culturally relevant tool watches was the Ref. 6105 which was worn by Martin Sheen in the film Apocalypse Now. It has since gone on to take the name of his c...
Monochrome
Copies of popular products are inevitable. Many cars look alike, many drinks taste the same, and Apple and Android steal from each other every year. There are Submariner wannabes and Royal Oak rip-offs – it’s just how the world works. That said, who doesn’t like a good “Weird Al” Yankovic version of a hit song? […]
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet recreates a colour intimately associated with its first Royal Oak model of 1972. Although the colour described as “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” has appeared on many dials, it has never been replicated in high-tech ceramic. Inspired by the clear night skies of the Vallée de Joux, this darker tone of blue ceramic is […]
Fratello
It is no secret to regular readers that I like the Zenith Defy line of watches. These are some of the very few integrated-bracelet sports watches with a clear identity. They do not take the design-first approach of, say, a Royal Oak, nor do they strive for elegance like a Laureato. Zenith, instead, pushes into […] Visit In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the less prominent, but arguably interesting, debuts for Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm in sand gold. A compact watch in muted, pale tones but discreetly glammed up with diamonds, the new tourbillon is the first instance of the ultra-thin cal. 2968 (also known as RD#3) appears something other than a Royal Oak. Initial thoughts The 38 mm tourbillon is the sort of watch that’s more interesting than it initially looks. Though it appears to be a ladies’ watch at first glance, largely due to the somewhat unattractive beige stitch-less strap, it is arguably a unisex watch in both size and style. I would have preferred limiting the diamonds to the case middle for a low-key, formal appearance, but even as it is the gem setting is quite modest. But the new tourbillon isn’t just an aesthetic exercise. The cal. 2968 inside is a nifty movement with some clever details that keep it exceedingly thin. The 38 mm case also demonstrates the Code 11.59 works well in a smaller format. This is especially useful since many iterations of the Code 11.59 feel a bit too large (though in some instances the thickness is a technical requirement). Image – Audemars Piguet RD#3 Entirely in the brand’s proprietary sand gold alloy – best described as a pleasantly washed-out red gold – the case measures 38 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness. It’s set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, crown, ...
Time+Tide
Emerging from the shadow of icons like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic stands to be a future classic, Zach argues.The post The Louis Vuitton Tambour Brown Ceramic is going to be a future classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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