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Wiki · Guide
Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

Exclusive · Guide
Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition: Scooter Yellow in 36.4mm

Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.

Exclusive · Guide
Limited Edition Seiko Turtle HBB002: PADI's 60th in Sunburst Blue

Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel insert, 200m water resistance, an 8,000-piece run, and a €750 price tag that puts it squarely in the impulse-buy bracket for a real diver.

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More Fratello
Rolex Jul 23, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More

When the opportunity arose to tackle a Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025 feature, I jumped at the chance. My managing editor Nacho and I did have a chuckle, though. You see, here in Sydney, Australia, it is currently winter. Southern Hemisphere, represent! When the discussion first occurred to write this feature, I looked up the […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Henry’s Top Choices From Seiko, IWC, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price $5,900 Reference:SBGM221 Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear Fratello
Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Jul 19, 2025

Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear

Here’s a watch that pays homage not to a shark but the shark. And that’s why “we’re gonna need a bigger boat.” I was too young to see the now-iconic Steven Spielberg movie Jaws when it came out five decades ago, but when I did a few years after its initial release, it scared me. Although […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPL81: Reliving And Overcoming A Childhood Fear to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Jul 18, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...

Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review Some Jul 17, 2025

Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 Review

Some watches become icons unexpectedly, and we would argue that no model better represents that idea than the Grand Seiko SBGA413 Shunbun – a watch that, on paper, should not even be an icon to begin with. So much of this watch’s ascension into the broader horological pantheon has to do with everything that GS does right in its process to create a watch from start to finish.  We know the brand for its vertical integration, its attention to detail, its mastery of the craft when it comes to dial design, case construction, and finishing. Not to mention how the brand has made it mark as the the name in movement accuracy. All of these aspects and more are on full display within and without the SBGA413. It is a masterclass in subtlety and craft, and one that is truly more than the sum of its parts. To understand the SBGA413, we must first understand the origin story.  Grand Seiko Shunbun Background In 2019, Grand Seiko unveiled four watches as U.S.-only exclusives in what it called its “Seasons” collection. Each watch employed the brand’s 62GS case concept (the brand’s first automatic watch), and two were mechanical while the other two utilized Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. The Grand Seiko Shunbun SBGA413 represented the Spring season and did so visually via a unique dial with a hint of pink emblematic of the cherry blossoms in bloom at the start of the spring season. This subtle dial which only appears in certain lighting conditions was paired with an u...

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Lookalike Jul 15, 2025

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References

Back in May, I wrote about a Seiko release that got me thinking about the brand’s current perception among watch enthusiasts. Those Seiko 5 sports watches were a clear throwback, I think, to a time period when Seiko was the brand of distinction and choice for fans of affordable watches. Those days are gone. We still love Seiko, of course, but there’s just a lot more competition, and everyone’s game has been stepped up a bit. It’s worth remembering, too, that the Seiko of a decade ago wasn’t just the enthusiast’s choice for divers. Seiko has always made a huge variety of watches in all different styles, and another recent release from the brand is a good reminder of that, and a throwback release in its own way.  Back in the day, being involved in watch forums meant that you’d see endless questions about what watches to buy as an alternative to any number of rare, expensive, or otherwise unattainable luxury watches. That way of thinking about watch collecting has really shifted in recent years with the growth of the microbrand scene and the wide acceptance of new, original designs. But a nicely made “dupe” still has a place, and Seiko is about as good as anyone at delivering. The new SWR103, SWR104, and SWR106 are simple rectangular dress watches running on a quartz movement that retail for a little over $300. They also look a whole lot like the Cartier Tank, down to some very specific details.  Seiko has made a Tank dupe for as long as I’ve been intere...

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far) Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

The Best Watches of 2025 (So Far)

It’s July, the halfway point of 2025, so we thought now would be a good time to take stock of some of our favorite new releases of the year. It’s been a busy new release from large and small brands alike, with a mix of ambitious new projects and iterative releases that take some of our favorite collections to new places. Our contributors, as always, found a lot to like this year at a variety of price points and in a large array of styles.  What are some of your favorite new watch releases of 2025? Let us know in the comments what we missed, and what you’re looking forward to or hoping for in the months ahead.  Zach Weiss – Fears Arnos  It didn’t take long to pick my favorite watch of 2025 so far, even with some stiff competition from Nomos and Grand Seiko. That watch is the Fears Arnos in Pewter Blue, a watch I’ve had the luck of encountering a couple of times in person. Fears is one of, if not the only, contemporary micro-indie working on the more formal side of watch design, something that isn’t surprising to anyone who has met the invariably well-dressed proprietor of the brand, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. But what makes their approach so intriguing is that they aren’t just making vaguely Patek-esque designs with Fears on the dial and calling it a day; they are coming up with innovative and even odd designs that one would still call dressy. That said, the Arnos takes their approach to a new level. A thin, rectangular watch measuring 33.5mm x 40mm x 8.4m...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock Fratello
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock

Yes, I know this series is supposed to be about watches for summer, but is there such a thing as a typical summer watch? I think I’ll go against the grain and refer to my picks as “holiday watches” instead, as preparing for a vacation is when I carefully select the watch (or watches) I […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Singer Grand Seiko Jul 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More

It’s Friday again. Then Saturday, Sunday, what? If you recognize this, you know your music. It’s also a nice cue for our next list article with the best watches of the first half of 2025. This week, we’re focusing on our five favorite chronograph watches that came out in the past six months. Some of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Singer, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials Fratello
Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local Jul 11, 2025

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials

Orient Star made its big comeback to Europe a few years ago. Since then, the brand’s M Collections have been taking center stage. While Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local nature, sometimes just outside its studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, Orient Star finds inspiration further afield. Much further indeed, as Orient Star bases its dials […] Visit Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials to read the full article.

Hands-on - The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on - The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Commemorates Jul 7, 2025

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer is one of those watches that is just incredibly easy to recommend. It runs on a solar powered quartz movement, which makes it ultra practical and reliable. It’s styled to look a little like classic vintage chronographs that we love, but isn’t an on-the-nose recreation of any in particular. And they come in an easy to wear 39mm case, a fairly neutral size for just about any wrist. They’re also relatively affordable, coming in well under $1,000.  Seiko has released several of these “SSC” Speedtimers in recent years in a variety of colorways. The latest is a limited edition for the World Athletics Championships, which this year returns to Tokyo for the first time in 34 years. Seiko has been the official timekeeper of the World Athletics organization since 1987 and has made a number of watches to commemorate the partnership in that time.  This Speedtimer would seem to capitalize on a fairly persistent trend in the watch world: the purple dial. According to Seiko, the tone of this dial in particular is inspired by “Edo purple”, a shade long associated with the city of Tokyo. This color has also been designated as the official color of this year’s World Athletics Championships event.  The purple base is accented with black chronograph subdials and a black tachymeter bezel, along with applied faceted hour markers and lume filled hands that have been outlined in black for increased legibility. The black and purple combination works w...

eBay Finds: A Fun Digital Seiko from the Year Star Wars Premiered, a Hamilton with a Unique History, and a Zodiac Sea Wolf in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Jul 4, 2025

eBay Finds: A Fun Digital Seiko from the Year Star Wars Premiered, a Hamilton with a Unique History, and a Zodiac Sea Wolf in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf  The Zodiac Sea Wolf is an absolute icon in the vintage dive watch world, and this early metal bezel version is a nice example. There were many iterations of the Sea Wolf, with various bezel materials, dial colors and date/no date versions. This black dial, date with metal bezel is an earlier combination, and definitely sought after. The plated bezel is usually pretty worn, and the lume can be degraded or re-done on these. This example has a nice clean black dial with great lume on the dial and hands, and the bezel is in top shape. The crown is also original and signed with the Zodiac logo as it should. No movement pictures but the seller states the watch runs well.  View auction here Vintage 1970s Bulova Jet Star  Here’s a wild vintage Bulova from 1974, that looks every bit the 70s watch. The 40mm gold plated UFO style case is excellent and unpolished, still showing the original radial brushed finish. The case may draw your eye, but it’s the bold two-tone orange dial that keeps you looking! The dial is a bright orange that turns darker at the outer edge. Applied markers outlined in brighter orange and steel and white hands with a day-date window at 3 o’...

Seiko Dropped a Purple Speedtimer for Tokyo 2025 and It’s Better Than You’d Think Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Dropped Jun 30, 2025

Seiko Dropped a Purple Speedtimer for Tokyo 2025 and It’s Better Than You’d Think

I've never, not once, looked at a purple watch and thought to myself-"hell yeah". But Seiko has a way of making me reconsider things, especially when there’s a story behind the color. With the new Prospex SSC955, they’ve tied a punchy shade of Edo purple to something bigger: the World Athletics Championships coming to Tokyo in 2025. And the result is a solar chronograph that feels more thoughtful than flashy, which, frankly, is exactly what Seiko’s better at than most.

Our Favorite Quartz Watches Worn & Wound
Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph Jun 27, 2025

Our Favorite Quartz Watches

We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound for a huge variety of reasons. Very often, a quartz watch is someone’s first watch, the watch that sets them down a path of enthusiasm and collecting that so many of us are familiar with. Quartz watches are often (but not always) an affordable alternative to a mechanical watch that doesn’t need to sacrifice anything in terms of design. Also, the technology is just incredibly cool, and so many great watchmaking minds have contributed to refining it and making it even better over the years.  We decided to ask our editorial team members to write a little bit about their favorite quartz watches. Some of these are watches they own personally, some are historic, and others are just fun examples of watches that might not make as much sense with a mechanical movement.  Be sure to let us know what your favorite quartz watch is in the comments below.  Zach Weiss – Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph Well, this is an easy one for me, as I happen to have it in my collection: the Seiko Sportura SLQ009 Kinetic Chronograph. Where to even begin with this one… I’ll start by explaining why I like it. Long before I was properly afflicted with the watch-collecting-itis, I was simply a teenager in NYC with an appreciation for watches. My dad and I would occasionally go to the Tourneau TimeMachine on 57th Street for fun on the weekends, and for a time, they had a Seiko Kinetic Chronograph on display. It had, as I recall, a special vitrin...

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC955 With A Surprisingly Beautiful Dial Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Jun 25, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC955 With A Surprisingly Beautiful Dial

Seiko’s Speedtimer series is the Japanese brand’s chronograph collection that celebrates retro looks with modern technology. The series is part of the Prospex collection and has slowly grown in recent years. It consists of several impressive mechanical chronographs as well as multiple solar-powered models. I have had a chance to go hands-on with several of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph SSC955 With A Surprisingly Beautiful Dial to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Grand Seiko in Great Condition, and an Uncommon Watch from Texas Instruments Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jun 20, 2025

eBay Finds: A Classic Omega, a Grand Seiko in Great Condition, and an Uncommon Watch from Texas Instruments

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Citizen Here is a brilliant vintage Citizen. The stainless steel case is unpolished with nice sharp edges on the bezel and killer lugs. The clean white dial has two vertical silver stripes that give it a really sporty look. Simple applied steel baton markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. Overall a classic looking Japanese sport/dress watch. The watch comes on a steel Jubilee-style bracelet that fits the look, but is not original to the watch. The crown is signed as it should be. No movement picture but it runs well per the seller.  View auction here Texas Instruments Starburst  Now this one is interesting! A vintage Texas Instruments Starburst digital watch that has an analog style display. The square case is gold plated, as is the integrated bracelet. The watch looks almost new-old-stock, and is in stellar condition with no wear. The dial has a gold radial starburst pattern, with a round digital display in the middle. It has LCD hands that show the time, as well as a day/date function. Really a trippy and unique vintage LCD watch that I haven’t seen before. The watch comes with the original box as well as the original instruction booklet. Works well per the seller, ...

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review Jun 18, 2025

Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT Review

The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background:  The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...

Seiko SSK023 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko SSK023 Review Let's begin Jun 17, 2025

Seiko SSK023 Review

Let's begin this review of the Seiko 5 GMT Sports SSK023 with a spirited chant: "NWA! NWA!" No, I’m not the hype man for the groundbreaking ‘90s hip-hop act. It’s a New Watch Alert, and all kidding aside, I went and bought a watch, something I haven’t done since I picked up my Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar last year. In spite of my attraction to that yellow-dialed wrist magnet, there’s a new contender in my regular rotation, and it’s not Swiss. Nope, I’ve gone and picked up a new Seiko 5 GMT Sports model, and it’s getting an awful lot of my attention. I’ve fallen hard for the SSK023, probably the most basic four-hander in the Japanese brand's catalog, and I couldn’t be happier. Now, this is hardly my first Seiko rodeo. I’m a longtime fan whose gateway was an old-school 6309-7049, the famed "Turtle" dive watch, discovered by my wife in a mom & pop jewelry store for a mere hundred bucks. It’s not even my first Seiko 5 spin around the block, and I’ve got the SNXJ89, Seiko’s budget take on a classic silver-dialed Datejust, to prove it. However, it is my first Seiko 5 Sports watch with the new-era logo. Prior to the SSK023, I did snag the 55th Anniversary LE, the SRPK17, and it’s everything it’s advertised to be, with its note-perfect re-creation of the very first Seiko 5 Sports model from 1968. That tonneau-cased beauty is a banger, down to the original Seiko 5 shield logo, but the SNK023 represents my first real dip into the modern Seiko 5 pool, and...