Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
A new case and dial for one of Breguet's most complex timepieces.
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Hodinkee
A new case and dial for one of Breguet's most complex timepieces.
Quill & Pad
Piaget is one of Martin Green's favorite brands ever; he ranks it on par with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Apart from an exciting history, Piaget has also been at the forefront of Martin's favorite 'complication,' the ultra-slim watch. Check out the latest versions of Piaget's svelte Altiplano here!
Revolution
Piaget is releasing four new Gala Limelight watches modelled after the brand’s four pillars of excellence, starting with The Art of Gold.
Time+Tide
Luxury brands invariably dangle a world of mahogany-panelled exclusivity. Viewed through the prism of their marketing, life is presented as a stately whirl of weekend polo, yachts and vintage convertibles. Access is restricted by a velvet rope and the relative depth of your wallet. But the chance to belong to this rarified community - the champagne … ContinuedThe post Is AFL star Dustin Martin’s hook-up with luxury watch chain Kennedy a case of retailers finally getting real? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Wash your hands, relax, and enjoy this week's roundup of watches from around the web.
SJX Watches
Kiu Tai Yu (1946-2020) was famed for achieving several firsts in watchmaking. He was the first watchmaker in Asia to build a tourbillon wristwatch – he debuted the Kiu Tai Yu tourbillon no. 1 in 1991 – and also the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). Kiu preceded today’s Asian independent watchmakers by some two decades. He joined the AHCI in 1992, making him one of the earliest entrants into the trade body for independent watchmakers that counts George Daniels (1987), Francois-Paul Journe (1988), and Philippe Dufour (1997) as pioneer members. Working out of a tiny shop named Kew & Cie. in Hong Kong’s Central business district, Kiu did one better after building conventional tourbillons – he invented his very own Mystery Tourbillon that had neither a cage nor visible bridge, for which he was granted patents in China, Switzerland, and the United States. Though he was inactive since 2007 when he suffered a stroke, Kiu was prominent internationally in the 1990s, being a regular at Baselworld where he exhibited his exceptionally distinctive watches. His timepieces encapsulated his philosophy of watchmaking – he did it his way. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese Inimitable design The aesthetic of his watches was strikingly Chinese and evocative of a particular period in East Asia. It was not so much the elegant, classical style of historical China, but the over-the-top, exuberant look of Hong Kong and ...
Revolution
Tudor is having its second golden anniversary in successive years – 50 years of the snowflake hands last year, and now the 50th year of the chronograph.
Deployant
We bring you the low-down on the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rat, and our thoughts on what makes the 88-piece limited edition timepiece so special.
Revolution
Two limited edition watches celebrating the beauty and nature of Grand Seiko and Shizukuishi
Quill & Pad
For International Women's Day, I'd like to introduce you to Rebecca Struthers, the most academic and studied watchmaker in horological history. And she has the singular honor of achieving the very first doctorate in horology. This is a very modern watchmaker with a rather old-fashioned way of doing things.
Time+Tide
Welcome back to the Friday Wind Down, website edition! We don’t know how long (a couple of years perhaps?) we’ve kept the Wind Down exclusively for subscribers, delivered hot to their inbox on Friday afternoon. But we’ve received enough requests for the old days, when it was delivered just as hot, just as heavy, via … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Featuring the best Insta comment thread of 2020, Post Malone’s watch collection and we go Into The Wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
While the true beauty of mechanical timepieces is almost always on the inside, Blancpain’s métiers d’art collection makes a compelling case otherwise.
Quill & Pad
What makes an enamel dial so magical? That is the question Martin Green asked himself when presented with the new version of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a blue oven-fired enamel dial that Breguet recently launched. You may enjoy the answer he came up with.
SJX Watches
Launched last year alongside the time-only Tonneau, the Privé Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is classical Cartier in style and execution. The case is a century-old Cartier design that has not aged, while the movement is interesting in aesthetics and mechanics. In fact, the 9919 MC inside is surprisingly novel – it’s a skeleton, form, and curved movement with two time zones. The Tonneau Skeleton is also being produced in a modest limited edition, which means it will remain unusual. But it is hindered by a high price tag. Double fuseau The Tonneau Skeleton Dual Time is modelled on the Tonneau double fuseau (French for “double time zone”) that was produced in a variety of versions, including a 1999 Macau handover commemorative edition, from the 1990s until the mid 2000s. A Cartier Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) Tonneau dual time zone in white gold, c. 1998. Photo – Sotheby’s Cartier was particularly fond of the twin time zone complication during the period, and the double fuseau was also produced in many Tank case styles, ranging from the Tank Cintree to the Tank Louis Cartier. Despite the diversity, all the double time zone watches shared a common feature – they were powered by two separate small movements – either mechanical or quartz, depending on the model – essentially two tiny watches combined into an extra-large case. Though mechanically unsophisticated, the two-in-one construction made each time zone entirely independent, down to the minute....
Quill & Pad
A visit to Texas offered Elizabeth Doerr a surprise: she came across a very large painting simply entitled 'Watch' at the Dallas Museum of Art. Further inquiry into its painter, Gerald Murphy, revealed a fun historical anecdote and a bit of a mystery. Why did Murphy paint a giant Cubist impression of two watches in 1925, and which watches were they?
Revolution
To mark February 29, Revolution is taking a look at some of the perpetual calendars that mattered in the history of watchmaking.
Quill & Pad
RJ Watches - formerly known as Romain Jérôme - has declared bankruptcy with immediate effect. Elizabeth Doerr takes a brief look at the 16-year run of this quirky boutique brand, its design-focused existence having formed an interesting tribute to the power (and limits) of marketing.
Quill & Pad
To celebrate its 65th anniversary, Corum invited a few people to its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds to look at some lovely vintage pieces and talk about what the brand has meant to the history of watchmaking. Elizabeth Doerr shares her visit, and visuals, here.
Quill & Pad
As a fan of the classic 1950s and 1960s Omega Constellations, Colin Smith had always dismissed Omega’s 1982 reworking of its flagship model, known as the Constellation Manhattan, as something of an aberration from the “true” Constellation concept. His “road to Damascus” moment occurred recently when he saw a 36 mm black-dial co-axial chronometer on display at an Omega dealer in Bordeaux.
Deployant
For 2020, MB&F; announces two new limited editions of the LM FlyingT – in red gold and platinum, without diamonds, both limited editions of 18 pieces each.
Time+Tide
Whether he’s playing a hard-partying surgeon in Doctor Doctor or a bewildered zombie in Glitch, Rodger Corser is a square-jawed fixture on Australian TV. But he’s also a serious watch guy. So when Channel 9 travel show Postcards asked him to pick his favourite Melbourne venues, we were humbled that he picked Time+Tide. “I’m part … ContinuedThe post Actor Rodger Corser brings Ch.9 travel show Postcards into the Time+Tide office! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Next Saturday is the 29th February, an event occuring once every 4 years which a perpetual calendar watch takes care of. Here is our list of 6 of the best.
Quill & Pad
Given Panerai’s origins in Florence, it should come as no surprise that the Italian watchmaker created a horological tribute to the insatiably curious father of modern science Galileo Galilei, who was once a resident of the Renaissance city. The Jupiterium is a one-of-a-kind geocentric planetarium with perpetual calendar.
Quill & Pad
Place Vendôme has always held an extraordinary attraction for Martin Green: he cannot visit the French capital without going there. The square is occupied by hôtel particuliers, or historical city townhouses, which served as homes and offices to some of the richest and most influential families in France. And while their façades are homogeneous, what's behind them is not: one of the magical places there is the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique at 7 Place Vendôme.
Time+Tide
In just 10 days, on Saturday the 29th February, we will be throwing a bash at our headquarters to celebrate the recent Watch & Act! World Watch Auction – with proceeds once again donated to bushfire relief. Our special guests on the night – and we’re rightfully excited about this part – are the Horological … ContinuedThe post It’s nearly time for the Watch & Act! Wrap Party and you’re invited appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An American watchmaker who unveiled his first watch in 2013, Keaton Myrick has spent the subsequent years refining the 1 of 30, a wristwatch crafted with traditional, artisanal methods. Since then the 38-year old has delivered several examples of the 30-piece edition, each customised to the client’s request in terms of design; the watch pictured is numbered “30/30” and is largely stock, with the only custom option being the engine-turned seconds sub-dial. Based in Sisters, a town in the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon, Keaton studied watchmaking at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT), a school in Pennsylvania established by Rolex, which he joined after graduation. After several years there, he returned to his hometown to set up a workshop specialising in repair and restoration. 1 in 30, numbered “30/30” Keaton’s time at LWT was the genesis of the 1 in 30. According to Keaton, each student at the LWT had to build a school watch based on the ETA Unitas 6497 (or the related 6498), a project that evolved into the 1 in 30. With inspiration from independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour as well as complicated vintage pocket watches – the historical inspiration is particularly evident in the winding click – Keaton modified and refined the common and robust Unitas movement to create the impressive and original cal. 29.30 inside the 1 in 30. Cal. 29.30 Being easily available and reliable, the Unitas 6497 and 6498 are popular base movements for independent watch...
SJX Watches
Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre supports ‘The Supermarket Of Images,’ the latest exhibition at the Jeu de Paume arts center in Paris, which exhibits and promotes all forms of mechanical and electronic imagery. The exhibition’s central premise is that our lives are increasingly saturated with images. The impact of this is the story that this exhibition tells.
Revolution
Shawn Stockman of Boyz II Men fame on collecting watches, championing autism and the band’s staying power.
Quill & Pad
There is something about tonneau-shaped watch cases that Martin Green finds instantly appealing. So it's no surprise that he fell for the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 upon its introduction at the 2020 LVMH Watch Week. Or is it?
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