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A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time Worn & Wound
Longines Dials Jun 18, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time

The week’s episode of A Week In Watches takes a look at new releases from Longines, Seiko, Rolex, MB&F;, and …Seiko. Yes we’ve got multiple Seiko watches to discuss here and yes, they are both pretty awesome. The sporty theme continues with a new Daytona released by Rolex during the 100th running of the 24 hour race of Le Mans. It brings back the exotic dial and nails a lot of details in the process. In what may prove to be more relevant news, Longines has introduced a smaller Spirit Zulu Time GMT, now available in a trim-ish 39mm case. The newest Spirit Zulu Time comes at a perfect time, sitting alongside the 42mm variant we saw released last year. More choices is always better for enthusiasts, and we think you’ll find a lot to love in not just this release from Longines, but what’s yet to come. Don’t miss out live pics of the 39mm Zulu Time in our introduction right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 54: Throwbacks Galore; Speedtimers & Daytonas; Longines Dials In the Zulu Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference – Reprise Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Jun 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference – Reprise

Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks Time+Tide
Bulova Marine Star models reframe Jun 18, 2023

The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks

Some watches play to a faithful template, while others prefer to try something more imaginative. These new Bulova Marine Star models are definitely in the second category, pulling influences from seemingly every direction and frankly it’s difficult to know what to make of them. All that said, if you’re looking for something with unashamed character … ContinuedThe post The new Bulova Marine Star models reframe a mish-mash of influences into bombastic new looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else Time+Tide
Jun 16, 2023

The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else

If you read Time+Tide, you know very well that GMTs are as popular as they have ever been. I would actually say, much more popular. I cannot think of any major Swiss or Japanese brand that hasn’t released a GMT in the past two years. And looking at the independent/microbrand world, it seems that each … ContinuedThe post The Nezumi Aviera is a GMT that looks like nothing else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hunter Valley Semillon: “Australia’s Gift to the World” Highlighting Brokenwood Wines Quill & Pad
Jun 16, 2023

Hunter Valley Semillon: “Australia’s Gift to the World” Highlighting Brokenwood Wines

Hunter Valley Semillon is one of the more curious styles of wine likely to be encountered. Most wine lovers from outside Australia (indeed outside of the eastern Australian states of New South Wales and Queensland) treat it with a little disdain, have never tried it or perhaps even heard of it. Ken Gargett explains why it should be on any wine lover's radar.

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX Worn & Wound
Tissot Puts Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX

It’s not exactly breaking news, but it seems that integrated bracelet sports watches hold just as dominant a place in the market as they did a year ago, and a year before that. They are coming at us from every angle: the entry level, the high end, and somewhere in between, and with each new release, it feels more and more like this isn’t a “trend,” as so many (including myself) have described it in the past. It’s becoming increasingly clear that what we’re looking at is a product category as broad as “dive watches” or “dress watches.” That means integrated bracelet sports watches are just going to keep coming, not just at every price point, but in every size.  And that brings us to the newest release from Tissot, a PRX in a 35mm case and equipped with an automatic movement. The PRX has been available in 35mm for about a year, but only with a quartz movement. An integrated bracelet sports watch in a smaller than normal case size makes a ton of sense, and by all accounts the 35mm PRX was a big hit. The very nature of an integrated bracelet sports watch means that, most of the time, it’s going to wear a bit larger than a watch with a strap or traditional bracelet. The cases for these watches, often somewhat architectural and heavily faceted, have a ton of wrist presence. And the silkiness and drape of the bracelets (when they’re done right) makes comfort a truly defining feature in this category – a watch that’s too big can spoil the whole experie...

The Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie is minimalist and avant-garde Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Jun 15, 2023

The Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie is minimalist and avant-garde

The evolution of Speake-Marin continues. Back when the brand was owned by its founder, most of their business was conducted as bespoke orders for extremely wealthy clients. After the management shake-up, we’ve seen Speake-Marin release a few new and more affordable references as part of the Ripples collection as well as brightly coloured editions of … ContinuedThe post The Speake-Marin Academic Black Tie is minimalist and avant-garde appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Gifting Metal Worn & Wound
Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023

True to form, Patek Philippe has debuted more than a dozen new timepieces from its Rare Handcrafts collection at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. Reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the new collection includes dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Featuring traditional Japanese motifs, the new releases reflect Patek Philippe’s expertise in a range of precious crafts and techniques, including marquetry, guilloché, and various forms of enamelling including Grand Feu cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, and grisaille enamel.  The event is taking place at the Sankaku Hiroba expo centre in Shinjuku and runs from now until June 25, 2023. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend. Detail of the ref. 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch Dome clocks and table clocks When it comes to Patek’s Rare Handcrafts, nothing serves as a better backdrop for an artist’s skills than the brand’s iconic dome clocks. Measuring 213.5 mm tall and 128 mm in diameter, each clock is powered by the mechanical cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is conveniently rewound by an electric motor. While I often find that miniature paintings on wristwatch dials can look cramped at such a small scale, the large panels of a dome clock provide ample space for more dynamic compositions. Case in point is the Dome Clock ref. 20137M-001 “Hanami”, which uses Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to depict the Japanese custom of appreciatin...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Tokyo 2023

Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options Time+Tide
Porsche Design s new Chronograph 718 Jun 10, 2023

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options

As the famous slogan goes, “Porsche…there is no substitute”. A young Tom Cruise knew it after outrunning the bad guy with his father’s 928 in 1983’s Risky Business, and the legend rings true more than ever today. In celebration of the introduction of the new 718 Spyder RS, Porsche Design has made an introduction of … ContinuedThe post When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver There are Jun 9, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver

There are plenty of things we can choose to be frustrated by in the watch world. Rising prices, the increased importance of mysterious social media algorithms, outright chicanery, nonsense, and shenanigans in the auction world. Yes, these are forces contributing to making the hobby a little less enjoyable at times. But I like to focus on the bright spots, of which I’d argue there are more than enough to get excited about. One of those bright spots is the reemergence and wide availability of affordably priced, classic designs from thoughtfully resurrected heritage brands. Guillaume Laidet has become something of a specialist in this area, playing an integral role in the return of Vulcain, Excelsior Park, and Nivada Grenchen, the subject of this hands-on.  For a time, it seemed like a month couldn’t pass without a “new” brand that went dormant during the quartz crisis coming back with an updated version of their most popular model. So many of these attempts to capitalize on the popularity of vintage, neo-vintage, or whatever we’re calling it wound up failing, but the Nivada Grenchen strategy always felt different, and the brand continues to be successful a few years out from the relaunch because of Laidet’s forward thinking. Beyond the overall quality of the watches, which is consistently high, Nivada has always been presented as a real brand, and not simply a vehicle for launching one, or maybe two, watches. The idea of having a real collection for consumers to...

The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel Time+Tide
Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Jun 9, 2023

The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel

The latest ode to Coco Chanel is the Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa. It shows Coco Chanel in a more androgynous style which she paved the way for in women’s fashion. The image is inspired from a photo at her La Pausa villa in 1930. As the only fashion designer to be named in Time … ContinuedThe post The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Who are #tide and what do they do? Time+Tide
Jun 8, 2023

Who are #tide and what do they do?

If you’ve been paying attention to watchmaking trends in the last few years, then you’ll be incredibly aware of the push towards sustainability throughout the entire industry. Whether it’s a net-zero carbon production, vegan leather straps or the slightly controversial BioCeramic MoonSwatch, renewable or recycled materials are popping up in more and more releases. One … ContinuedThe post Who are #tide and what do they do? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jun 7, 2023

5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop

Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. The post 5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

When are we going to accept that fashion brands can make legit timepieces? 6 amazing references from rulers of the runway Time+Tide
Jun 5, 2023

When are we going to accept that fashion brands can make legit timepieces? 6 amazing references from rulers of the runway

If a luxury brand is synonymous with handbags or jewellery, most watch collectors won’t usually give them the time of day, as we tend to get hung up on the fact that these names are known more for haute couture than haute horology. Despite the best efforts of the watch press, a whole segment of … ContinuedThe post When are we going to accept that fashion brands can make legit timepieces? 6 amazing references from rulers of the runway appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering Time+Tide
Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A Jun 4, 2023

The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering

Casio’s collaboration with Stranger Things brings back the reference A120. The A120WEST-1A is full of Stranger Things Easter eggs such as a blinking backlight. More A120 references should be released later in the year. Stranger Things certainly didn’t begin the nostalgic obsession for the 1980s, but it definitely kicked it into another gear. As the … ContinuedThe post The Casio x Stranger Things A120WEST-1A is ready for whatever parallel universe you’re entering appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic Jun 3, 2023

The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere

The Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic collection has been expanded with three new light colours With their sporty versatility and summery colour schemes, they could be considered affordable alternatives for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 The Classics Premiere collection has also been announced in limited numbers, with traditional looks in an elegant case Often when discussing … ContinuedThe post The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Roundup: Gifts Perfect For Dad Worn & Wound
Jun 2, 2023

The Roundup: Gifts Perfect For Dad

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. This week, we’re focusing on gifts for Dad with Father’s Day coming up around the corner. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up for that special Father in your life! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. This week, we’re focusing on gifts for Dad with Father’s Day coming up around the corner. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up for that special Father in your life! The post The Roundup: Gifts Perfect For Dad appeared first on Worn & Wound.