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Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 Just May 30, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54

Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Black Bay 54 is the latest step in the evolution of Tudor’s mainstay line of dive watches. Inspired by the brand’s first dive watch of 1954, the Black Bay 54 is clearly vintage-inspired. But more notably, it is the most compact dive watch in the Tudor catalogue at just 37 mm in diameter, making it one of the brand’s most wearable offerings. Though scaled down in terms of size, the Black Bay 54 still possesses all of the characteristics that define Tudor watches, namely a high-spec in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve no less) and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts As I mentioned in the article introducing the watch, the BB54 is perfect for anyone wanting a wearable dive watch that pairs vintage style with corresponding vintage proportions. The minimalist approach is evident not just in the size, but also details like the bezel insert, which has been simplified to feature just five-minute markers.  Despite the familiar vintage aesthetics and clean line that define the Black Bay, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is compelling. For one, it catches the eye for being noticeably smaller on the wrist than its Black Bay siblings. While it is certainly compact, maybe even small by contemporary standards, the BB54 doesn’t look diminutive on the wrist. Perhaps because of the stark, functional design and “gilt” dial, the BB54 has more presence than its 37 mm would imply. I like the watch very much as it is, but if there w...

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 30, 2023

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise

Many of us have seen and heard the auctioneer’s hammer crash down on the final bid of a famous well-fought-over item. What interests Chris Malburg – apart from the artifact itself – is the seller. Why the sale? Is this is a one-off event or does he or she have more to offer? What brought them to this hammer time? This article explores motives for and provides expert advice on selling a watch at auction.

Hands On With The IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph WatchAdvice
IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph It’s May 30, 2023

Hands On With The IWC Portofino 39mm Chronograph

It’s not often that we get a dress watch to review, and even rarer that I would wear a more dressier watch around for a week or so, but the IWC Portofino held it’s own and even got out to an event or two where I could really show it off. What We Love Clean easy to read dialClassic looks that won’t date39mm size wears well What We Don’t Lack of see through case backNo Date displayNot easy to read in low light with no lume Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 The Portofino collection has been around since 1984 in the IWC catalogue, and offers an alternative to the Portugieser range for those wanting a slightly smaller and more elegant piece on their wrist. If you’ve kept up with my other articles around dress watches, many of you may know that I’m not massively into dress watches but was keen to try out the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39mm. It’s a watch that grows on you. If you’re like me and not naturally inclined to wear more formal watches, then you really need to spend time with the Portofino to appreciate it. You probably should also be the person that can either pull off a more dressier watch with casual clothes, or have places to wear this, like more formal events, business attire at the office or even just a nice dinner out where you can admire the watch in the dimmer restaurant lighting. Given I’m not an office worker anymore, I opted for the event and dinners out options to show this piec...

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde May 29, 2023

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More

Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra robust everyday May 29, 2023

Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch

Owing to the likes of the Rolex Explorer and Omega Aqua Terra, robust everyday watches have become their own thing. Because what we need is a watch we can wear everyday, not necessarily one that has a unique use case and the specifications to match. Everyday watches are the most common in brand catalogues and … ContinuedThe post Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast Time+Tide
May 28, 2023

FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast

The Fast & Furious films are a fun, perhaps, guilty pleasure for millions. The franchise is essentially a racing soap opera packed with fight scenes and plot-lines spiked with twist, turns and resurrections. I could probably put together a more in-depth intro here. But time is ticking. With such a large cast throughout the years, … ContinuedThe post FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet who’ve announced May 28, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro

In episode 51 of A Week In Watches we take a look at a trio of new Monaco watches from TAG Heuer leading into the race weekend in, well, Monaco, as well as a watch that’s taken shape almost entirely in the US of A from the workshop of J.N. Shapiro. Those two watches might be on opposite ends of the spectrum, but there’s plenty more to discuss in the middle, from a new Mathey Tissot x Massena LAB, Breitling Classic AVI watches (including one sweet re-edition), and news from Audemars Piguet, who’ve announced a new CEO to take the helm of the brand beginning next year. Plus, one spicy comment from last week’s episode. Be sure to catch next week’s episode, which marks one full year of A Week In Watches in, naturally, episode 52. It’s a special episode with Zach, Zach, and Blake taking a seat to answer questions submitted through our Worn & Wound+ Slack channel, which you can join by signing up for our weekly newsletter right here. Be sure to head over to YouTube to leave a comment on this episode and the next for a chance to be featured in an upcoming episode, and let us know your thoughts on the stories featured this week. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 51: TAG Heuer Opens Up The Monaco & US Made Watches From J.N. Shapiro appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix presents May 27, 2023

Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion

Maurice Lacroix releases a new version of the Pontos S Diver after discontinuing the 2013 model Three dial colourways available: Grained Black, Lacquered White & grained Deep Blue This new version is thinner, smaller and more refined, making it more versatile than before Maurice Lacroix just released their new Pontos S Diver in the best … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix presents the new Pontos S Diver in proper Mediterranean fashion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Louis Errard Messena Lab May 26, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow

We hope that heading into Memorial Day weekend you’ve got plans to do things other than constantly scroll through Instagram, but let’s be real: for watch enthusiasts, a long weekend is just a few extra hours to climb down the collecting rabbit hole. To that end, Watch Scrolling is back, this time with a selection of Instagram accounts curated by Kat Shoulders, Worn & Wound’s Media Production Manager. If you need even more IG recommendations, be sure to check out previous installments of Watch Scrolling from Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan. As always, we want to hear from you, so feel free to drop your favorite watch related IG accounts in the comments below – we’d love to see them. @secondeseconde   View this profile on Instagram   seconde/seconde/ (@secondeseconde) • Instagram photos and videos I’ve always been fascinated with people who make art from already existing objects and that’s exactly what @secondeseconde has done with watches. A little funny, a little tongue in cheek, they are always sure to make you kind of smirk as you see his artwork scroll across your feed. There’s a certain physicalness he brings to Instagram that I really love, even when it’s simply a photo within a photo of a watch. Call it vandalism or call it art, you gotta give mad props to him for collaborating with some big brands like Moser, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen, Louis Errard, Messena Lab, and more. I can’t wait to see what he does next! @pockettrinkets   View this profi...

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI May 25, 2023

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case

Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out.  The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna SJX Watches
May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio Worn & Wound
Nomos Honors 175 Years May 23, 2023

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio

Nomos has been a staple of consistency in recent years, tweaking their finely honed collections to further degrees of refinement. Nowhere is that more apparent than in this latest trio of limited edition Orion watches, which represent a nod to 175 years of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte. The new Orion watches are as subtle as they are beautiful, with plenty of joy to discover in the sparingly deployed details. Subtlety is the name of the game here, and Nomos does this better than just about anyone, with the Orion serving as the perfect platform not only for this concept, but also historic watches crafted by young watchmakers looking to make a mark, not only for themselves, but for the town of Glashütte. As watchmaking apprentices in Glashütte would complete their training, a final project watch would be built to showcase their finely tuned skills at that point. These were anything but practice watches, they were built to “demonstrate the full breadth and depth of their skill”. It is here that Nomos has derived inspiration for this trio of Orion watches, which showcase their own set of unique details that reflect the pride of watchmaking in Glashütte. The Orion watches that celebrate 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking are, naturally, limited to 175 pieces each. They are the Orion neomatik, Orion neomatik 39 and Orion neomatik 41 date, collectively. Each boast silver plated, domed dials with gold indices for an incredibly subtle but chic look. In a firs...

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris May 23, 2023

Culture and Community: A Recap of San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023

Though our recent Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco wrapped a few weeks ago, it still feels like yesterday as this was our most ambitious event to date. We had more watch brands than any other Windup. In the form of “EDC Alley”, we had more watch-adjacent brands than ever. We also continued to push the boundaries of what a watch fair can be with one-of-a-kind culture building moments throughout the exciting, long weekend. First and foremost, ​​we’d like to thank everyone who came out to the event, to meet and buy watches, and to help make it a huge success. Our team had the pleasure of speaking with many of you, some of whom traveled from all around the country and even various parts of the world. Bringing all of these unique product enthusiasts under one roof made for a distinctively energetic show, complete with delectable food trucks and sunny California skies. We miss it already. We’d also like to thank all of the brands that chose to participate in the San Francisco Fair, from our distinguished lead sponsors: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac to our amazing Key Sponsors: Alpina, Bulova, Citizen, Collective, eBay, Europa Star, Fears, G-SHOCK, Junghans, Maurice LaCroix, and Norqain. Finally, we want to give a special shout out to VERO Watch Company for premiering their first short film called “Katabatic Flight” at the show followed by a live acoustic set by the film’s director Matt Costa, who also scored the film. We also want to th...

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 23, 2023

Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks Worn & Wound
May 21, 2023

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch Time+Tide
IWC s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono May 21, 2023

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch

All the rage at the IWC booth during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders was the revamped Genta Ingenieur, and rightfully so, for the most part. This story, however, is not about the Ingenieur, but IWC’s bread and butter – pilot’s watches – and more specifically, the brand new Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in stunning … ContinuedThe post IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca Teddy Baldassarre
May 19, 2023

The Story of the Walter White Watch, from "Breaking Bad" to "Better Ca

The sixth and final season of AMC’s prestige drama series Better Call Saul, the prequel to the award-winning Breaking Bad, dropped on Netflix back in April, and a wristwatch that appears prominently in the series finale has caught the attention of avid small-screen watch spotters. Some of them may remember - while others may have missed - seeing the watch for the first time in Breaking Bad, where it played an even more significant symbolic role in the storyline of its owner, Walter White, played by multiple Emmy winning lead actor Bryan Cranston. Here is the story behind Walter White’s watch and why it is so much more than just a prop. When we first meet Walter White, in the premiere episode of Breaking Bad on January 20, 2008, he is a somewhat pitiable figure: an underpaid, underappreciated high school chemistry teacher who drives a Pontiac Aztek (remember those?), wears a cheap digital watch, and struggles to support his small family, which includes caring for a son with cerebral palsy. In that same pilot episode, Walter learns he has terminal cancer - a diagnosis that triggers the desperate and increasingly ruthless quest for illicit riches and power that defines the arc of the series, as Walter evolves from hapless, nondescript educator to the crystal meth kingpin of Albuquerque, New Mexico. (Series creator Vince Gilligan has described its high concept as “Mr. Chips becomes Scarface.”) The first watch that we saw Walter wearing is a fairly humble one, a ...

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts We round May 18, 2023

Highlights: “The Ultimate Collection” at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong”  In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels Time+Tide
Omega revisits May 16, 2023

Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels

Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.