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Results for Caliber 9S85

617 articles · 2,219 videos found · page 24 of 95

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

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21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 20, 2023

21 Best Tissot Watches for Men, from Under $600 to $2,000

Founded in 1853 by the father-son team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, Tissot is today one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world, with a versatile and varied collection of timepieces for men and women, from dressy to sporty to high-tech, all offering one of the industry’s best value propositions across the board (every watch we showcase here comes in under $2,000). With such a breadth of options, it's difficult to compile a list of the standouts, but for this (admittedly very subjective) compilation of the 21 best Tissot watches we strove to include just about all of Tissot's major collections, with an emphasis on men's watches with mechanical movements, particularly spotlighting the variations on the proprietary Powermatic Caliber 80. (For those who find themselves enthralled by one or more particular models on this list, most are available right here at TeddyBaldassarre.com; just follow the shopping links.) TISSOT SEASTAR Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 Price: $1,075, Case size: 46mm, Thickness: 16.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111 Tissot's ruggedly attractive Seastar family of dive watches, which debuted in the 1960s, welcomed its most robustly engineered member in 2021. The ISO-certified Seastar 2000 entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with en...

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The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko challenged one another while Aug 16, 2023

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration

Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....

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Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds New Dial Options Aug 8, 2023

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection

In a move that’s sure to excite watch enthusiasts, Tissot is adding two new colors to the celebrated PRX Powermatic 80 35mm: fan-favorite Ice Blue and a PVD Gold. The PRX landscape has never looked more diverse, and those who prefer an automatic movement in the more approachable size can now choose between six flavors: Black, Green, Blue, White Mother of Pearl, Ice Blue, and Gold. It’s hard to believe that it has already been two years since Tissot reintroduced the PRX, a watch with origins from 1978. With its angular case and integrated bracelet, it’s right on trend and has been a calling card for those looking to get into the integrated sports watch game without selling a kidney. Over time, the lineup has grown to include quartz and automatic watches in both 40mm and 35mm. By gradually adding size, color, movement options, and even a chronograph, Tissot has earned its place on the shortlist for affordable yet satisfying sport watches. These new PRX 35mm watches are powered by Tissot’s Powermatic 80. Based on the ETA 2824-2 caliber, the Powermatic’s improved spring barrel efficiency and lower beat rate of 3Hz allow for an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Unlike their 40mm counterparts, however, the new 35mm PRX watches boast near-universal wearability. This is largely attributed to the way the first bracelet link extends as it meets the case. A 6mm reduction in lug-to-lug distance from 51mm to just under 45mm (44.9mm to be exact) makes this a completely dif...

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Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Aug 4, 2023

Doxa Sub Review: The Iconic Dive Watch You Should Know More About

If you're seriously into dive watches, you probably know that the Doxa SUB is one of the most important and influential members of that popular genre, but if your interest in underwater timepieces and their history is more casual, you may not be aware of Doxa's unique spot in that pantheon of pioneers that includes household names like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here is a brief history of the Doxa SUB and a rundown of where the watch renowned for bringing orange dials to the watch world stands today.  Bound for Glory Doxa founder Georges Ducommon, a native of the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle and one of his family’s 13 children, came to watchmaking early in life. He began an apprenticeship with an established local watchmaker in 1880, and within less than a decade had developed the skills, creativity, and resolute confidence to start his own business. He founded Doxa in 1889, naming it after a Greek word meaning “glory,” a bold harbinger of the successful future Ducommon envisioned for his brand. That success came in fairly short order, with Doxa pocket watches winning accolades at World’s Fairs in Belgium, in 1905, and in Italy, in 1906. With automobile racing becoming a popular pursuit in the early part of the 20th century, Ducommon filed a patent in 1907 for a caliber with an eight-day power reserve, which became standard equipment in the dashboard clocks of Bugatti race cars. After Georges Ducommon’s death in 1936, Do...

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The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

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Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Bulova Relaunches Jul 20, 2023

Bulova Relaunches the Jet Star, with their High Frequency Precisionist Movement, in Three Striking Dial Variants

Good design always comes back in cycles. Whether it’s the revival of midcentury furniture or Neoclassical architecture, there’s an undeniable truth when it comes to design: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.  Watch brands are surprisingly good at acknowledging – even celebrating – past designs, only making small updates for better performance or tweaking the finer details to refine the overall product. Bulova’s release of their reimagined Jet Star is one such example of this. Taking inspiration from the archival 1970’s Jet Star, the new Bulova 1973 Jet Star has made incremental updates to the overall design, preserving what works and making small improvements along the way. The stainless steel case remains as angular and interesting to the eye as the original, but has since been updated with a trio of colorways for a variety of options. Customers can now choose between a sporty steel timepiece with red and blue accents, a gold-toned Jet Star with rich brown and gold tones, or a not-so-subtle red and steel model. While the aesthetic of the watch could be right out of the 70’s, the internals of this watch are anything but retro. Utilizing a Precisionist movement, this quartz caliber vibrates at a remarkable 262kHz, making for a gorgeously smooth second hand that sweeps across the dial, similar to a mechanical watch. This unparalleled accuracy punches well above the weight class and price point of the Jet Star. Each of the three references in this collection ...

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Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093 Time+Tide
Seiko dive back into 1965 Jul 10, 2023

Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093

The Seiko SJE093 is a faithful recreation of the 62MAS from 1965. It can be seen as an updated version of the SLA017 from 2017 with a more accurate case size. The 6L37 movement introduces Seiko’s new range of slimline calibers. To say that Seiko can sometimes be predictable would be a fair statement, as … ContinuedThe post Seiko dive back into 1965 (and 2017) with the SJE093 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

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CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Collaborate Jul 4, 2023

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC

The collectors group known as CronotempVs has revealed their latest project, and it’s with none other than TAG Heuer in conjunction with the 60th anniversary of the famed Carrera chronograph. The open collaboration done with the collector community uses the modern 42mm Carrera case, and dials in plenty of special details in the process on the dial and the movement. The watch is called the Carrera CC (CronotempVs Collectors), and it takes inspiration from the 1974 Carrera ref. 1153BN, aka the ‘Yachting’ so named for the orange segments within the minute totalizer.  CronotempVs and TAG Heuer have created a fitting modern tribute to the 1153BN with the Carrera CC, incorporating the same character of the original in the modern Carrera chassis. This is not the 39mm ‘glassbox’ template that we were quite fond of when we saw it in Geneva (and are currently working on our long term review), but it does bring the caliber TH20-00 into the equation via the modern Carrera case we’ve come to know and (maybe) love. This platform  captures a specific fan favorite reference and highlights its versatility, as well as the timelessness of the design language as a whole. The original 1153BN was presented in a cushion case, with a dark blue dial and orange accents, and these are the starting blocks of the Carrera CC. The contrasting chapter ring and orange accents have been put to use brilliantly here, at once honoring the original while taking it into a new direction altogether....

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Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial Worn & Wound
Ming Jul 3, 2023

Ming Updates their 37.05 Moonphase with More Lume and a Completely Reworked Dial

Ming is back with an updated version of their 37.05, which you might remember was announced in late 2021 as the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Ming has given the 37.05 Series 2 (which they’ve nicknamed the “Ad Astra”) a series of whimsical refinements that play on the inherent romance of a moonphase complication. Those aesthetic tweaks are, of course, uniquely Ming in nature, making use of their expanding proficiency with a variety of materials, and a rather ingenious use of high powered luminescent material.  You’ll immediately notice that the big change to the new 37.05 is with the dial. Ming has gone from a textured blue dial with a subtle moonphase indicator at the 6:00 position to an anthracite dial with prominent brushed finishing. Star shaped holes have been added to the dial, which fill in with lume as the moonphase disc rotates underneath. The 37.05 still uses a sapphire upper dial, which is where you’ll find hour markers, the moon “mask” which is used to define the phase of the moon, as well as plenty of inlaid HyCeram lume to provide a bit of a light show when fully charged. Ming notes that the stars on the sapphire upper dial have HyCeram lume applied to both the upper and lower surfaces for increased visual depth.  The 37.05 Series 2 is powered by the manually wound Sellita SW288-1, which is the same caliber used in the prior moonphase, and has been extensively reworked and decorated in the same fashion. The bridges have b...

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eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting Jun 29, 2023

eBay Finds: NOS Full Kits, Classic Divers, & Unknown Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nivada Grenchen CASD Starting this week off with a classic chrono-diver, the amazingly named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, could the name be any better? As great as the name is, the watch is even better. The Chronomaster is a timeless masterpiece, with simple, functional design that looks as good as it is functional. There are many different iterations of the Chronomaster, with different dials, hands and movements, but I feel this one is the best. Clean black dial with two black subdials and the broad arrow hour hand. The steel case measure about 38mm (seller doesn’t state this, but I have the same watch), and looks unpolished, with nice sharp edges on the beveled lugs. This example is powered by the buttery smooth Valjoux caliber 23 manual wind movement, which is a joy to use. The elapsed time aluminum bezel insert is in excellent condition, and the watch even comes on a Nivada signed bracelet! Seller states the watch keeps time and works properly, but there is some patina on the dial, so keep that in mind. View auction here. Hema Chronograph Another chronograph, but this one has a much bolder look to it. This circa 1960’s Hema (yeah, I’ve never heard ...

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An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

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Schwarz Etienne Jun 25, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers a diverse group of new releases. We start at the high end with some new chronographs by Singer Reimagined and then head over to a limited quartet by Elka with some help from Ace Jewelers. Next up was a truly wild creation by Schwarz Etienne that was designed by vaunted designer, Eric Giroud. Last, we celebrate Alpina’s 140th anniversary with a look at their incredibly limited and incredibly cool new square watches powered by a vintage caliber. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Launches Jun 23, 2023

Breitling Launches a Pair of Motorcycle Themed Collaborations in their Permanent Collection

Breitling’s long history has continuously been dotted with opportunities to push the brand forward and introduce a new crowd to the Swiss brand. One way to do this is through a continued focus on partnering with brands that complement the Breitling’s mythology, particularly those with a focus on adventure, speed, and adrenaline. Take, for example, the latest releases from Breitling’s Top Time line-up. Originally designed in the 1960’s by Willy Breitling, grandson of the family company’s founder Léon, as a response to the growing interest in motosports. The popular model, worn by design aficionados and 007’s alike, has only increased in popularity over its six-decade span. Now, both Triumph and Deus Ex Machina are putting their own spin on the Top Time platform once again, after a series of previous successful collaborations along similar lines. Released this week, both the Top Time B01 Triumph and Top Time B01 Deus nod to the freewheeling spirit of the decades before while situating their own mark on the brand for the modern wearer. Both the Triumph and the Deus follow a blueprint established in previous collaborations, including the ice blue dial on the Triumph and playful accents on the Deus, but the new watches feature Breitling’s B01 chronograph caliber, whereas the earlier references used an ETA derived Caliber 23. That upgraded caliber is housed within the same 41mm stainless steel case as its predecessors. Often called the “unconventional chronograp...

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Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2023

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features

If there was an easy knock you could make against the previous iterations of the Singer Reimagined chronographs, it’s that they were too big. At 43mm in a big cushion case, they have a ton of wrist presence to be sure, and require a larger wrist to pull off effectively. But they’re mechanically ingenious, and, in my opinion, pretty great looking from a purely aesthetic perspective, so I was always willing to forgive them for their size. Now, with a pair of watches in the brand’s new Singer 1969 collection, they’ve gone a long way toward answering doubters who made the large size of their earlier watches a dealbreaker. They’ve also incorporated new functionality, refining the mechanical piece to make their watches even more intuitive.  The 1969 Chronograph is the heavy hitter of the pair of watches announced today. This watch features an updated Agengraphe caliber that’s smaller (to fit the new 40mm case) and also includes a time display. Elapsed time is still read from the centrally mounted hands, but the current time is now displayed in an aperture at 6:00 via a pair of rotating discs. The chronograph incorporates jumping minutes and hours for precision, and the caliber is capable of timing events of up to 60 hours, which is a feat only Singer can claim.  The more modest 1969 Timer is my personal favorite of the two new watches. This is effectively an update of Singer’s Flytrack watches, which incorporate a 60 second timer via the centrally mounted running...

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Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New Jun 19, 2023

Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection

The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term.  Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...

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Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI May 25, 2023

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case

Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out.  The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris W. Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko fan May 5, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Chris W.

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris W. shares a personal trio of watches that serve as foundation pieces in his own collection, representing a diverse cross section of watch making, and encompassing unique styles in the process. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I own these watches as part of a 21 watch collection. While I’m a big Seiko and Grand Seiko fan with 7 (Grand-, King- and other) Seiko’s in the box, I do love my French, German and British watches too. I can never quite say what my favourite 3 piece collection would look like.  For his budget, on this rainy day, this is the set I’d choose to keep. Tomorrow, my answer might be different. Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Atlantik 36 – ~$2,500 I picked up this watch in 2017, and it has proven to be a true go anywhere, do everything watch. Stick it on a cordovan strap, and you can wear it with a suit because of it’s discrete 36x9x48mm dimensions. If you stick it on the included canvas strap, you can go snorkelling, hiking or biking with it because of the solid 200m water resistance.  The polished case will look great with a bit of wabi-sabi from wear and tear, and the movement is the first completely in house developed and produced Nomos caliber, at 3,2mm thick including the rotor.  The somewhat strict looking Bauhaus design is made much less stark because Nomos excels at little splashes of colour, whe...

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An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune Worn & Wound
De Bethune When you go Apr 20, 2023

An Unexpected Dive into the World of De Bethune

When you go to Watches & Wonders, you hope to have an experience like the one Zach Weiss and I did with De Bethune. The Geneva based brand was actually not exhibiting at the show, but had space in the Beau Rivage hotel, right on the lake, along with a dozen or so other independent brands, all taking good advantage of the watch world absolutely descending on the city for an entire week. I have long been an admirer of De Bethune, but always from afar. They are not the easiest indie to get your arms around, both literally and figuratively. The watches are very rare and hyper specific in their design language, and for a long time I had the sense that they might appeal to exactly the 200 or so people per year that are able to obtain a new piece, no more no less. But then the last three years happened, and every independent brand took off like a rocket ship, and since De Bethune watches kind of look like rocket ships to begin with, their rise was perhaps even steeper. The DB Eight Monopusher We were there, ostensibly, to see two watches. The brand’s latest novelties both happen to be more classically styled than the avant-garde pieces they’ve become known for. The DB Eight monopusher chronograph is about as classic as it gets. The case design, with those flared lugs, is based on the DB1, the very first De Bethune, also a chronograph. This one, though, has a brand new caliber and is fashioned from grade 5 titanium as opposed to solid gold. While the aesthetic of the watch is ...

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Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel Apr 18, 2023

Everyday Lookbook: Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel

The Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection brings a casual touch to one of Officine Panerai’s most classic formats. The collection is a modern interpretation of their first-ever watch, bringing the look of the legendary divers of the 1940s to contemporary, enthusiast-friendly proportions. Pared down yet commanding in presence, the Radiomir Quaranta features Panerai’s iconic details and precision reinvented in a stylish, everyday package. The new Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection is available in multiple versions, with three variants featured here: a white dial with beige Super-LumiNova® and brown strap (PAM01292), a blue dial with white Super LumiNova® and dark blue strap (PAM01293), and a dark anthracite dial with beige Super-LuminNova® and black strap (PAM01294). And starting today, Panerai has added a 4th exclusive model, a green dial and brown strap combination (PAM01386), which is an E-commerce exclusive limited to 500 pieces. Now there’s a look for everyone with colorways that perfectly complement your mood, environment, and attire. Technical details include the P.900 caliber a 4.2mm thick next-generation automatic movement, the first of its size from Panerai to combine the date, three days of power reserve, and water-resistance to 50 meters. It’s clear that this is a package geared for everyday styling and wear. The post Everyday Lookbook: Introducing The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going Apr 6, 2023

eBay Finds: Diver Chronographs, Full Kits, & NOS Goodness

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster Jumbo Going to start this week off with a bang with this stellar vintage Omega Seamaster! This circa late 1950’s reference 2975-1 SC is simply gorgeous and not one you see too often. Seller calls it ‘jumbo’ in the title but it’s just under 35mm wide, which is a classic Seamaster size. The unpolished steel case has tapered lugs rather than the ‘fat lugs’ style, but honestly I love this case/lug style. The caseback is fantastic with the oversized and deeply engraved Hippocampus logo, which is really uncommon. The original dial has a nice, fairly even patina, and killer applied steel arrow markers. The steel dauphine hands have some oxidation on them, but overall the whole watch is a beauty. Correct crown with deep grooves. The caliber 500 automatic movement is clean and seller states it runs well. If you’re pining for a vintage Seamaster, check this one out! View auction here. Vintage Baylor Dive Chronograph Next up we have a nice vintage Baylor chronograph diver. I have no idea why the seller has the workd ‘Heuer’ in the title other than clickbait. The steel skindiver style case measures 37.5mm wide and looks unpolished but does exhibit light w...

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[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS Worn & Wound
Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Mar 29, 2023

[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS

Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome.  The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...

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Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

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